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Sirocco

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Posts posted by Sirocco

  1. Option B. or if you want them to be 100% option C.

    Don't even try to service them yourself, the slightest perspiration on your finger tips can damage the surface of the needle, it is that finely honed, the finish is in micro's and you won't have the necessary equipment to test the hydraulic pressures being discharged, the volume if liquid and the exact spray pattern. They are possibly the most technical components in your engine along with the fuel injection pump.

    Leave servicing them to Bosche injector experts and ultrasonic is a good method of cleaning them.

    Thanks Boydie,

    I wasn't suggesting servicing them myself, just giving the outside a clean and dropping them back in. Thanks for the info though.

    So how important is pop pressure? and how long can injectors last? Am I going to be buying new ones in another 50,000miles?

    G

  2. Morning guys,

    I'm just after a few opinions.

    Pulled my injectors (300tdi) from the 90 yesterday and got them tested this morning at a local diesel specialist. No issues with the vehicle really, it does smoke on start up and full load at high speed, not much but it is there (probably not even the injectors). Power seems ok, Its on 159,000 miles so I thought I would get them checked.

    The pressures are a little down but nothing significant and the pattern looks good. The guy said they were fine. When I quizzed him on pop pressure, he said they couldn't test that.

    So do I:

    A) Clean them up myself and drop them back in with new washers.

    B) pay the $140 to get them ultrasonic cleaned and put them back in with new washers.

    C) pay $640 for a set of 4 from paddocks and get them sent over (to Australia). cheaper than a rebuild to.

    D) something else I might not have thought of.

    Thoughts?

    G

  3. Morning Folks,

    I am in the midsts of importing my 90 and trailer into Australia, however it looks like I am going to need some official documentation stating the weight capacity, unladen weight etc for the trailer.

    Does anyone have this in a PDF they could send me? I have found the manual for the MKII but not the MKIII.

    Any help appreciated as my Carnet is running out.

    Thanks,

    G

  4. So...

    Indonesia went well. We had to wait 2 months between Russia and Australia as we were container sharing. The cheapest place to fly to from Hong Kong and the cheapest place to live is Indonesia :)

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    Lisa learn't to dive on the Gilli Islands, just off Lombok. We flew to Jakarta and traveled overland by local bus through Java, onto Bali, Lombok and out east to Flores where we went to the Komodo National Park.

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    Whilst in Komodo, when Lisa was doing her PADI Open Water I went snorkling and among the hundreds of fish species I got to swim with turtles, manta rays and even a few black tip reef sharks, which although tame, does come at a shock when they are neary 2.0m long!

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    The great news is after arriving in Melbourne our truck arrived soon after. It cleared customs yesterday and the inspection by AQIS :) we are so happy it didn't cost us anything more than the shipping handling and 1 inspection. cleaning and further inspections could have cost us upwards of $500AUD We also didn't consider the underneath to be that clean and were pretty worried.

    So, its now insured and we collect tomorrow! The fixing can begin!

  5. https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1382982_733082113384228_1186665144_n.jpg

    So we made it to Magadan, down to Vladivostok and the truck/trailer are on their way to Melbourne.

    26,200 miles (42,000 Km) driven, 248 days on the road, 116 nights wildcamping, 176 nights in the roof tent, 22 countries, 16 International border crossings and 4 vehicle services.

    I cant find a way of displaying photos on our tablet, I tried the about bit it just links. and I have a bit of a backlog due to shipping the laptop with the truck. More photos on facebook though.

    Currently in Indonesia trying to live cheap while we wait for the container to land. Once we set up in Aus a lot more content will follow and you will probably see me more active on the forum again!

    Thanks to those who have followed our 10 month journey from the begining. Its been pretty special and is still difficult to take it all in. We have only just started to see other travellers here in Indo so only now really talking about the trip to other people.

    The rig is going to need some TLC next month!

    G

  6. Thanks JB, and thanks fr the input guys.

    I should have added that the fuse blows before you turn the engine over. Ie. when the gauges kick in. No indicators touched.

    The guys here want to bypass the problem. Haynes manual does not show a very clear diagram either so they are very confused! (that and the fact its in English.)

    We are getting there, and we have the net! Found a small chaf on the green wire on the front LH indicator, pointed it out, but they are still keen to start chopping wires :(

    Hazards work fine, all indicators work, no fuse blowing there. Car runs and starts fine, I just have no fuel/temp or indicators! I have removed the rear wiper also, that is all taped up and looks to be ok. from behind the dash. Maybe its chaffed someplace else?

    Thanks for the input guys, we feel very far from Land Rover help out here in Siberia!

    G

  7. Have you looked at the gearbox output shaft / transfer case input gear?

    Remove the PTO cover, and slide the gear out and inspect the splines on both.

    No I haven't because I don't know what I'm doing! :) Is it that easy? I may have to wait till the next opportunity to take a look. Better start looking at exploded parts diagrams before I get stranded in Mongolia.

    I wonder if the play in the drive has anything to do with the rear half shafts?

    Don't think so, splines look fine, truetrac splines look fine also. Im sure its somewhere between both props. UJ's are fine also :)

    G

  8. Hey Guys,

    A while back I thought I had trouble with my Diff due to slack in the transmission and a big ol' clunk when taking up drive and if you don't slip the clutch a little. I dropped the oil, no bits. Last night I dropped the diff and couldn't see anything obvious, it seems as tight now as when I fitted it nearly 12 months ago.

    With it in DiffLock I can rotate the handbrake drum around 4" which I think is around 1/6th of its rotation (roughly) before the front propshaft moves. I don't think this is normal, but would be happy to be told otherwise!

    Its an LT230 Transfer box on my 1996 300tdi, all standard driveline with exception to the Truetracs.

    It was fine when we left the UK in January, its not so fine now after 14,000 miles in Kyrgyzstan. vehicle is on 127,000 miles and I assume original boxes. We are towing a Sankey along so that wont be helping the stress levels on the gearboxes.

    G

  9. When you get into Korea go North to Sokcho (if the ferry isn't broken down or it is indeed actually running !) go to the national park and climb the mountains.....they have metal stairs !!! You will surely be going North and across to see the DMZ.....(although that may be closed if the North is still farting about)

    The hotel in the park is pants and I'm not sure you can camp inside so if you fancy a splurge go to the Kensington with the red double decker. Its not expensive. You have to pay for the park though. If your feeling lazy go up the cable car to the other side of the valley.

    You will love Korea !!!! Its my favorite place in the whole world ! The food is amazing and the people are just fantastic.

    Enjoy your trip.....When you get to Vlad you'll really appreciate Korea once you arrive. PS there's a Pizza Hut in Donghae.....I bet you have one !

    Thanks Neill.

    We may actually be skipping Korea now as my contact there for shipping isn't proving too reliable so we may just go from Vlad now instead. will note your details though, thanks for the tips! Pizza Hut? for sure! There is only so much of the 4 meals on offer in Central Asia you can take!

    G

  10. I popped the 'X-Eng' diff plug out this morning and there was a slight bit of metal sludge but nothing big.

    Soooo, does that mean its ok? Could the Truetrac be at fault?

    Checked arms, A frame again, the halfshafts I checked previously looked ok and all drive bolts were fine.

    My other suspicion may be something at the other end behind the handbrake drum in the gearbox, but I have never fiddled with anything in there so don't know much about it.

    I should also add that Its not only a clunk, its a bit of a shudder too. Ie. Its not a small knock.

    G

  11. Thanks for the replies guys. I forgot to add that the A frame seemed fine. It was replaced before we left along with Superpro bushes all around. When it was on the lift at the dealer it sounded like it was coming from the Diff and the arms didn't seem to move. They said it probably wasn't a problem (in Russian) but I wonder if they were shurking work as it was the end of the day.

    I may get a chance to look tonight but I doubt it as we have been invited out to someone's house for food again!

    Will keep you updated as I do need some advice on this. But worried about going further east if my Diff is going to explode. I suppose towing a sankey don't help much...

    G

  12. It seems that my rear diff is making a big clunk on taking up drive and in 2nd mostly. Angry gear changes from 5th to 4th up hills also make it do it but not too often.

    So the props looks fine as do the halfshafts. oil changed fairly recently and still looks fresh. Diff was bought 2nd hand (along with the front) fitted with a Truetrac installed and fully re-furbished by a reputable company.

    I'm going to drop the oil tomorrow If I get time and can find somewhere to do it to see if there are any bits in it.

    Drives fine, but i'm worried about the knocking.

    Currently in Stavropol, Russia on my way east (but if this thing goes tits up we will be heading west!)

    Any pointers?

    G

  13. Now that's a road trip.... :i-m_so_happy:

    I was meaning to ask how you fitted the Maggi RTT to the SD Cage before the trialer came along ?

    I had 4 tabs welded on (Its a Whitbread cage) for my old Safari-Equip RTT. The mag worked ok with the 2 front mounts direct over the front hoop tubeing. The rear required a bit of fabricating to make it to the other tabs, it was never great and I generally had a ratchet to hold it down offroad as there was a little too much flex. Much better on the trailer now.

    Quickly into Russia? :hysterical: :hysterical:

    Looks like a nice trip!

    Quickly through Finland as its going to be proper cold there :D

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