Sirocco
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Posts posted by Sirocco
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You might want to have a look at this comparison first:
http://www.aulro.com...ts-finally.html
Cheers,
Tim
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I picked up some Castrol GTX at ASDA when it was £10 for 4L. Actually I picked up quite a lot!
Keep your eye out as they do offers on the 1L or 4L every 6 months or so.
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I will be there on Friday night hopefully.
I'm helping out with the marshalling of the BLESMA challenge (giant car park).
I may also be doing a 'talk' at some point during the weekend
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QT for diff guards
Midland 4x4 for steering guard
Tank guards are generally quite generic
Rock/Tree sliders - so many options, pick one you like the look of. Cheviot 4x4 use to do some nice tubular ones.
transmission - I dont know, kind of specialist and depends what gearbox you run etc.
If you want fancy looking stuff Equipe 4x4 have some nice bits.
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might be possible to retro-fit a full width Td5 intercooler.
I looked into that a while back as TD5 coolers are cheap. But. Hoses are on both ends so difficult to fit into a TDI as standard.
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to build what? A Sankey chassis?
Would it be worth it? Your better off buying one complete. the cost of materials just for the chassis would be over half what you would pay for a complete trailer.
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POR 15 on mine a couple of months back. Clean back chassis with wire brush, spray on marine degreaser, rinse, spray on 'metal prep', rinse then let it dry and put on 2 coats of POR15. I think all in it cost me £50.
chassis looks good now
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I have the National Luna system fitted to my 110 and it has never been a problem. I did try just using a simple relay based system before but it kept giving me problems. The advantages of the National Luna system are that it has a good dual battery monitoring display, only charges the second battery when the first is ok, allows me to override the connection for winching and has a low battery alarm. However it sure as hell wasn't cheap.
I bought mine from South Africa but i believe that you can get them in the UK from neneoverland i believe
I run my x charge with the twin voltage meter to. perfect set-up. keeps it simple and allows me to see what is going on
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X charge
fitted for nearly 4 years continuous use now . In the battery box subjected to all sorts.
No problems so far
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Both still TRO's as far as I know. The notice was still up on Pie corner late last year.
hmmm... nothing on trailwise. both shown as expired last year. I doubt anyone would go out to take notices down when a TRO lapses.
Nobody driven these recently then?
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Looking to link up some Lanes for an outing in July and I was wndering if anyone has any news on this lane?
Trailwise does not show any restrictions but I hear it has been TRO after TRO for over 10 years. Any thoughts?
Similarly Pie Corner, Trailwise shows no restrictions.
Any info appreciated.
Cheers,
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Its not overly clear in this pic but you can just make out the stainless clips holding the snorkel on.
Its very close, very tight and very neat, no need for a £50 bracket.
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Southdown on mine held on tight with 2 large stainless Jubilee Clips, I did have a generic one fitted but the bend in the flexi was really tight. You could cut the metal down and increase flexi but I think its just adding points where your snorkel could fail.
Cant go wrong with a southdown straight through the wing.
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I have a single T max (normal) and I replaced the switch moving it to the dash and hard wired it to the battery. Its in the box with 2 batteries and I run the quick connect out the front of the box. Works well.
Not tried to pump from 0 but it inflates tyres quick enough.
was cheap a few years back, think paddocks were doing them for £35
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Ive jumped a few vehicles with mine and not had any issues
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not sure what they would be like with a 2" lift though, they look good at standard height
KM2s with 2" lift, heavily loaded mind, sits a little higher empty and a fair bit higher without the cage and ARB bumper
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I know this sounds strange but you may also want to get someone else to drive it, clearly not some random but maybe someone from here that lives near you and is used to driving a truck the same as yours.
Jason.
I know what your saying Jason, I have 2-3 people here in Bristol I can call on, keep meaning to do this.
If your current alternator is OK then why change it? Are you fitting a brand named one? You could just check for play/noise in the bearings and that there is plenty of brush left and leave it at that - about a 20 minute job on a 300Tdi as I have found out this week. Save £150 in one go there!
I got 2 2nd hand 100a, not Denso but they seem 'ok' need to fit soon to test and check brushes on all.
Check the water pump for play. If the bearings are shot (wobbly pulley!) you need to replace it before you go.
need to check
Check that the PAS pump bearings are good. You can drive without it but your shoulder muscles will get very big very fast and the single belt will no longer go round so you will get no alternator, water pump, fan etc.
Check the bearings in the fan pulley/timing cover are good. Replace if there is any play.
check all pulleys
cheersChange the cam belt for a genuine or Dayco one and change the idler/tensioner too. Also change the front oil seal and front cover dust seal. Pack a rear oil seal as spare, I would not interfere with one which is working but for a few quid and 100g or so it may be a God-send.
Doing this soon anyway.
Being hyper cautious, change the lift pump but if you are taking a spare anyway don't bother. Not much goes wrong with the injector pump or injectors, at least not catastrophically and you will likely make it to a garage.
Excellent, thanks.
Good brake discs and new pads before you go. When fitting, make a close inspection of the pistons and if they are A1 they will last the course. I cannot think that I have ever known a calliper fail other than at brake pad change OR following a long lay-up period. Worth packing a set of rubbers though, and a small ball bearing that can be used to isolate any given brake calliper from the rest of the system should it be essential. (you fit it in a brake union and it blocks the pipe!)
While the brakes are in bits, remove the hubs and ensure all wheel bearings are well greased and the seals AND the bit of the stub axle that the seal runs on are in good order. I would change the seals for genuine at this point, cheap and very prophylactic. While the hubs are off, look carefully at the outer CV and inner halfshaft splines (300Tdi has integral flanges on the rear so no outer splines).
Checked, all good.
As long as all propshaft UJs are good (it may be best to remove shafts to check) then I would grease them, pack some HS or genuine spares and be happy with that. Check also transfer box output and diff input bearings. There is almost always some play in the front output shaft but as long as it does not leak oil then that is normal. I would pack spare seals for output/inputs but unless leaking not disturb.
I carry these everywhere anyway along with wheel bearings
Look carefully for any play in the steering column UJs and bearings. Both will continue to work long after they are knackered but will make driving a lot less pleasant.
Yes i think these need looking at
Fit LHD headlamps before you go!
Not bothering
wont need when we get to Aus and will use those sticky things when needed but will try to get away without.If the engine, gearbox and transfer box sound and 'feel' OK before you go then you will probably still have them when you get there.
Change all fluids and do a full service. Get someone you trust (ideally a qualified mechanic working on a lift) to make a critical inspection before you go - he should do an MOT type inspection but include many more items and be hyper critical. This will check your work and a second set of eyes/hands might find something you missed.
will be doing this anyway.
20000 miles is actually not that far for a car and you should not expect anything to go wrong - but that said, and as Mike experienced, expect the unexpected! Plenty of people would do that sort of miles in a few months, admittedly not in an older car mind, but how many breakdowns have you had in the last 20000 miles? Rough roads can make things wear out faster but you will be taking spare bushes with you I assume. I believe you have fitted polyurethane bushes, so when you have used them (and I know you will!) be sure to replace your spare ones. ...actually, that goes for all spares you take/use!
Should I take a full set of spare bushes? or is it worth just hacing them shipped out if/when required?
Please keep good notes, I might follow you in a few years time...
will do, dont worry
Chris
The gearbox is a major pain if it goes so if its orginal at 100000 + and with a rattle i would get it rebuilt, and then run it on Redline synthetic . You could do the clutch o/haul upgrade at the same time . JMHO
bummer. I was hoping no-one would mention this
any insight into what my '4th' rattle may be? and whats it going to cost assuming im driving into a garage and not dropping it myself.
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Thanks for all the replies, very usfull insights as always.
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255/85s are a nice size, narrowish with just over 33" height, work well with 2" lift. You will need to check rim width though as your alloys may be too wide.
As above your other option is 285/75 or what you could consider is dropping the lift and running 265/75 on standard height.
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Ok its mildly OT but it is for charity
Andy is wheelchairing around the world and has a support vehicle following him. He is looking for volunteers To drive the Land Rover* over various sections.
Somebody has dropped out and a place needs filling for the EU leg from July-September. All expenses paid other than your pocket money.
details here: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/14298643/pushing%20the%20limits%20-%20team%20vacancy.pdf
His site is here: http://pushingthelimits.com
This is a good chance for somebody to have an awesome experience and lend a hand along the way. If I wasn't going on a big drive next year I wouldn't be telling you all about this.
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*may not actually be a Land Rover.
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I have 2 in mine along with a small air compressor. Its a tight fit but it all works fine
Mike (gemini) modded the box in his 110, there were photos over on LRA but I imagine they are no longer there.
He will probably pop his head up soon.
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what if someone rear ends him? Its not his fault but only you lose out. I would just say 'sorry, but I have invested too much time and $$$ into it to risk lending it out'.
...and for that reason I am out
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Check out this carrier.
thats what I have. Came with my old 90 unfitted. Its been on 2 Defenders now in constant use for 6 years. It needs a repaint but other than that its been fine. Greasy hinges are good and the HiLift holder is good to.
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The thingy is a series of trip switches connected to a buzz bar. It should be insulated as its a live circuit. In theory it should 'trip if the winch gets overloaded.
I would ditch the 'thingy' and run a short length of cable from the + on the battery to the isolator and then connect your main + cable to the otherside of the isolator and back to the winch. I would also suggest keeping that type of isolator inside the cab away from the wet/mud.
I have put mine on the outside of the batterybox by the passengers legs for easy access and better in an emergency.
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x2 on the cable tie
Strata Florida - potential closure
in Getting out and about
Posted
a sad lose but not very surprising. It went from pristine(ish) around 2006 to destroyed by about 2010.
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