Sirocco
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Posts posted by Sirocco
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yer, check your wheel nuts 1st!
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looks like it's not a seperate replaceable bolt to me, not listed anywhere I can find, so might mean a new tensioner item 9 http://www.numcat.ru...ver/p/31/53174/
if it's the orange dot bolt on para 3 on this workshop manual page. which is the gold coloured bolt head in this tensioner photo
Yes the bolt head visible holding the pulley on. Nevermind. It was for a spare tensioner I had. Replaced the bearing now so i guess I will keep the pulley and use the original bolt if/when needed.
does anybody know the pitch of this bolt? It looks like an M12. would a standard course thread be 1.75?
Cheers,
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If it helps get an answer faster, I know it is a 300Tdi. Being LHT it can only be the auxiliary drive belt tensioner.
Chris
sorry, thought I put that in. yes, as above. spot on
Cheers,
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Snapped mine
Its not in the parts catalogue either. Its a course left hand thread does anybody know a supplier? I got the girlfriend to try the local machine place in Bath but no joy.
Any thoughts?
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Don't use the one on EP90 - I didn't realise it was still publicly visible I will fix that in a minute. The circuit is correct but the relay isn't suitable.
The relay acts like a tiny ignition coil... when the switch goes off, it generates a high voltage pulse which could damage the transistor. The pulse is reverse polarity to the power supplied, so the diode conducts and dumps the energy safely.
glad you said that, I was going to follow that.
which relay could you use?
Im also looking for a solution to this. I emailed Tim regarding the interface module but never got a reply.
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Neat. I just folded mine out of a sheet of Aluminium and dropped a small sink unit inside. Looking forward to the results.
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It depends on the internal width. It says 121cm but is that between the rails or outside the rails?
The open ends are a good design as it allows the tent to fold out. If you use this rack the tent can only fold out over the back door or the bonnet and you would be bound to their 1.2m wide model (and maybe that wouldn't fit).
What puts me off this rack is that it weighs 60kg.
For a little more you could look for a 2nd hand hannibal or front runner/patriot/wind cheetah which are Aluminium and open will little to no rails. This gives you much more scope for tents and position and will be half the weight of that rack.
JMHO
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I may have some bits in the garage. will have a look tomorrow. I know I have 1/2 a reel of hose. Let me know if you still need anything.
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That would be a shame as it is a challenging lane but all to often you see 35" tired V8 discos full throttle to the top. The chap I spoke to who lives at the bottom of the lane (back in January) also had the same sentiments. Does this potential closure also include the other lane next to it (forming a triangle).
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Fair point. The TD5 tank holds 60L compared to the original 45L so that is a bonus. Storage space would be huge under there!
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Been there done that (With regard to the tank). Why don't you stick to the 2 tanks?
I ran with a Y piece filler for a while with the hose going over the spring seat. It was ok, but didn't fill easily so I just cut an additional filler. Like you I didn't like anything out there and looked at all sorts. Even the 110 Hi-Cap filler cowl. Had it for a while but decided it was too big and just went for a marine filler. I put it off for 3 years but I should have done it from the start.
Other disadvantages of the Y piece is on a step incline (rock step) fuel drains out of the main side tank and into the rear tank. Not a problem for you as your only going to have 1 tank.
Why don't you fit a TD5 Tub if your going to only use the 1 filler at the back.
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^^^ Yes, priced for export to the states. IIRC its one of the last years you can import therefore much saught after.
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I think its just the resistor. If you find it only works on full it may be broke.
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Depends on the setting. In urban environments its difficult. onto tarmac in a public place is a bit of a no-no.
outside in the country I don't see an issue.
I have pee'd and pooped in a variety of places around the world
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February 6th!!
tax runs out on 31st Jan, so leaving the UK before then
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had some flexi brake pipes from britpart that were the wrong thread! same part number as others but different. I think its a quality control issue.
I wouild avoid, as stated, bearings/bushes/gaskets/seals etc because the tolerances are just not there.
I have had a radiator fitted for over 4 years now and its been fine
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Sorry,
I don't agree with the above, I can operate my brakes by hand albeit with a little bit of force, so you should be able to push the hitch otherwise it is not working correctly and needs lubricating.
Jason.
Really?! I couldn't when I first got mine but then it had been sat for some time. Maybe it will do it now, will give it a go tonight.
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Weather update: http://www.yr.no/place/United_Kingdom/England/Shepton_Mallet/
Heading down tonight, its going to be wet!
Si - would you be able to bring your X-Trou giveaways? I keep meaning to send that envolope but keep forgetting! I will swap you one for a beer
cheers for the T-shirt by the way
G
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Ha! I have similar questions with mine. Is yours disc or drum braked?
You will never push the drawbar in by hand.
Hitch it up, chock the back wheels of the trailer and reverse. It helps if you have a spotter as the transmission brake on the landy may make it roll forward a touch and release the brake.
For a Disc Mark III you should see the rear of the drawbar come out and the bolt should be pushing the plate that operates the master cylinder. This should be through most of its travel.
I had to bleed my brakes through recently and was wondering if they were as effective as they could be. I know they work when towing (try braking with the reverse button down (unbraked) and then up (braked) to notice the difference) but I think they could be better.
It would be wise to clean it up and pump through some fresh grease on all the nipples you can see (there are a few).
Its a start.
HTH
G
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I suppose there is an advantage to not having to store spares in an expedition situation, as the oil-filters can be cleaned easily, but that's about all I can think of.
hmmm, not really. I had to give a few big bags and cable ties to a couple in morocco so they could flush theirs out. Not really worth it when your in the sticks. you are also then in a position of where to safely dispose of the used 'solution'.
If you read all the responses to that post there is a fair bit to be said for leaving the filters in for longer than service life to gain better filtration (makes sense) but I guess you would see a drop in performance.
they also poo poo oil bath filters.
I would like to see an inline airflow meter for a Defender with warning light. We had one on the Land Cruiser in Arica lastyear and it was great. Also having washable filters was a bonus too!
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Until it goes wrong in the bush. Three days lost. I will try to sit on my hands where that company is concerned.
I thried the three way switch on my twin battery set-up. For some reason it didn't work....
Now I have a volt meter on the main battery and an Engel switch/ volt meter/ low battry cut off fitted. Works fine.
you must be refering to the 'kit' there Mike.
The voltmeter wont stop anything by itself. You can buy them on their own for around £50.
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time to move to Oz.....
Planned, leaving in January
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or buy a National Luna twin volt meter.
uses LEDs, connect straight to battery terminals via a mini blade fuse and you can turn it on/off at the instrument face and even have an alarm on 1 or both when voltage drops into the red. All wiring included to.
Its been great for the last 4 years.
G
MTF 94
in International Forum
Posted
MTF has gone up in price lots.
I got some LR MTF94 from the indi around the corner for £20 about 3 years ago, its now £35 booooo
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