Sirocco
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Posts posted by Sirocco
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Does anybody have a scrap swivel I can have
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As you were putting the bolt in theoretically it shouldn't be that stuck....
Have you tried tapping a torx bit into the hole you have drilled?
Or you could try shoving a bit of steel in the hole so it is flush with the snapped off bolt and then try welding a washer to the end of the bolt with the arc welder, the washer will protect the face of the axle tube and if you find a big thick washer you can weld a nut to that afterwards to help remove the broken bolt.
Not thought of a torx bit, does it work like an extractor?
As the bolt is inside the casing the worry of puddle welding through the washer is that I may end up just welding the stuck bolt to the casing! I might go out for a fettle in a bit and see If I can get it. The problem is due to its awkward nature (and my poor welding skills) its hard to get a good clean solid weld onto it where it is with an ARC.
That looks like its passed using any type of extractor and you will find it hard to weld anything on then remove it because the bolt and threads are very mashed up.
I would get an old ball swivel and cut off the flange, put 3-4 bolts into place to make sure it's all lined up, then use it as a guide to drill out the mashed bolt, then put a helicoil in.
You can get kits on eBay for around £10 that come with everything you need.
I like this, this sounds good. Udderly may be around this week to take a look so if we dont get any joy then this is what I will do, thanks
G
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there is about 3mm out of the rear. Cant get pics up, it keeps saying error! damn it.
G
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I have had this problem in the past.
Without seeing what your left with, it's hard to say because you can use a number of different tools.
The one thing I always use is lots of heat before using any type of extractor.
I'm reading a lot about that elsewhere on google. Will need to get some fresh gas for the gun. I wish I could get a grip on the threads poking out of the rear as I could turn these but I just cant get any purchase and a tap with a chisel wont move it. Will go out and take a pic now.
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Yer its M10.
Not completely butchered... yet.
Good info, cheers.
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Putting my front axle together today and I managed to snap one of the bolts whilst putting it back on
I took it all off and its sheared just inside the axle casing.I have tried drilling holes, extractor kit, tap with a chisel, getting a mole grips on the thread on the otherside and just come in from trying to weld an M6 bolt in there but there isn't enough room to get a good bead (with an ARC welder).
Anyone got any other ideas? Its getting beyond the scope of my capabilities now so if there are any industrious folk in Bristol who want to help I would appreciate it! Im guessing a MIG might get a better bead in there to help it hold but there is little metal left on the end of the bolt itself.
The other option is to burn through drill bits and butcher it out and fit a helicoil of some sort but I don't know much about these.
G
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Kitty gripper has proved its worth twice now. cost me £100 2nd hand, takes less than 5min to put together and packs reasonably small.
I would also rate a PRT if you can get one cheap enough.
If its too big or too heavy you just wont use it or carry it.
G
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This bloody thing: http://www.google.co...29,r:0,s:0,i:69
The bolt hole on the right. I wonder if mine has spun around (clockwise) a little causing the upright bit to be too close to the bolt head. Looks to be spot welded so I may chisel it off in the morning.
Anybody done this?
G
EDIT: Interestingly some photos show a 1 piece bracket, others spot welded like above. Mine is like the original one above!
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A ratchet spanner wont sit level due to the bracket being in the way. I have removed the brake pipe and bent back the tab but its the bottom of the tab where it is welded onto the plate that is in the way. I can get a socket on it but it wont sit level and slips off due to limited purchase. I have been using a 17mm. Imperial sockets wouldn't fit either.
Time to smash on a 16mm?
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Trying to do my shims and I cant undo the bolt that is closest to the brake pipe bracket. I have undone the brake pipe and tried with a socket, spanner, mole grips. Used plus gas a hammer and a punch.
The bracket is in the way meaning you cant 'seat' the socket on firmly which has caused the edges to round off slightly. The bracket probably pushes the socket up about 1mm for about 50% of its coverage (Does that make sense?).
What have others done? Its pretty tight down there and the bolt wont budge. The other came off ok as it was easier to get to!
what have others done? Can I 'remove' the bracket? It looks spot welded. Its a PITA.
G
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A day off? You wont get far out of Perth with a day off!
The Canning Stock route is on that side of Aus if you fancy it. get on over to AULRO for aussie LR chatter...
Will see you there for a beer in 12 months time!
G
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Not sure about terrafirma springs tho, would prefer to see you on OME's
Andy
Been running around on the medium duty (220lb/in Front & 300-340lb/in Rear) springs for over 4 years now with the 90 at near enough GVW. There is zero sag and I am very pleased with them
The spring rates also match OME so it was fairly easy to decide on what I needed (at the time). I will however get the HD ones next (360lb/in Rear) as towing the Sankey also now.No worries, I dont reccommend stuff I dont believe in!
G
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I just run the same damper on all four corners, which is nice for carting spares about. I ran Koni's before and was very impressed by these and they took massive amounts of abuse. But I now run the Gwyn Lewis setup so need the longer shocks and pin pin design.
What setup you running?
Andy
Currently Terrafirma Medium springs with OME N44 rears and TF fronts. The TF shocks are too soft that is why I got the N44s but these seem harsh even with a fully loaded vehicle. I was just going to get the N115 fronts but then saw the newer 'sport' versions.
Now Vulcan has put me in tune with the Koni Heavy Tracks which actually have some great reviews across the board (apologies to Vulcan it was Bilstein I got confused with when I looked at upgrading suspension years ago!). anyhow, the Koni's seem like a winner and are a little cheaper than OME.
So... I'm about to order 4 new Koni shocks and 4 new TF springs
I think... I just can hit the 'buy' button as its big £££!G
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I've heard nor read anything like that!
Sorry, my mind wondered, it was another brand that snapped on the rear near the eyelet. I knocked the Koni's on the head mostly due to price.
G
Edit: Looks like the 'raids' are the expensive ones, the 'heavy tracks' are actually reasonable. Are they a twin tube design? as some pics seem to show them without the protective 'tube'.
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Got them on mine G.
Very very very very happy with them, nice quality bits of kit.
Andy
That is good news Andy. Do you know if there are different 'rates' of them? D44 only show a front and rear with no other options, if this is the case, all the better as I have no choice!
Out of interest, have you had your 90 weighed? I know its got a fair bit of kit on it. Just curious
G
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Always overlooked imho is the Koni heavy trak shocks, i run them on my 110 and there just fantastic. Well worth the money and 1 less thing to worry about. There adjustable as well so you can soffen the ride when unladen.
I read a few mixed reports on the Koni's along with them being out of my budget so I have discounted them. Its taken me a long long time to narrow the choice of reasonably priced dampers
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I will be replacing my shocks soon and I was just going to plump for N115 fronts to compliment my N44 rears. These are original OME HD shocks but...
I have seen in the last 12 months or so the newer Nitrocharger 'Sport' which is said to be better.
Has anybody bought these and tried them? I cant find much real world use on the web. I will be going for the HDs as my 90 is running near enough GVW for an overland trip next year.
http://www.arb.com.au/products/old-man-emu-4x4-suspension/nitrocharger-sport-shocks/
Thoughts please
G
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For the heated windscreen circuit above, any live-switching momentary switch (with a separately wired 'tell-tale') is suitable.
If you have a 2002 onwards Defender, there's a factory switch that will do the job - YUG000460LNF
It's not too dear either
For heated door mirrors, if you don't have the room for a separate switch, then you could wire them from the heated rear window circuit, as they do on Range Rovers and Discoverys.
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Thanks Paul. Mine is a 300tdi and running Mudstuff Dash and Carling switches. Looking at MS would the off/mom (for rear foglight) switch do it?
http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/Carling_Switches.shtml looks like the 'indicator' light on stays on whilst the separate relay is energised. Did I read that correct?
Will put a seperate switch in for the mirrors. Should I use another off/mom switch? and can I piggyback off the front screen timer?
Cheers,
G
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new 70amp relay fitted & the wiring adjustment made, switched on & tested, all working as it should even the timer 8 minutes operates correctly,
The final wiring diagram [as fitted to my 1989 110CSW will appear here shortly]
Thank you very much to all who assisted with this little project
it's only taken me nearly 8 years to complete Well done Ralph. Would appreciate that diagram to do mine. I picked up the timer relay recently on Ebay but unsure if it will work or not.
May sound silly but how do you test the screen? will it get hot to touch when on?
Other question is switch related. I was going to use a standard on/off Carling switch but maybe I need one of the momentary ones? I was hoping to use an off/on/on one and run the 2nd circuit with my heated mirrors to.
what do you think
Cheers,
G
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Modified Hi-Lift jack carrier.
Proven/works on-road and off-road. Secured with bolts to prevent theft.
Pros:
easy to get to
outside of vehicle for when they become rammed with mud
easy/quick to mount
cons:
rear visibility reduced
bolts to prevent theft may or may not suit. could use wingnuts
carp position if you tow a trailer
mine may be for sale before we leave. Still umming and arrring over this one.
G
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Nothing new under the sun... the yellow Jeep looks like it's going off for it's first day of school!
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Trasharoo... Cheap to import. I love mine and Its coming along on our Trans-North Asia trip
G
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I have to do this next month...
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My Pic. Taken earlier this year (January) on a 4 day greenlane trip in the Peak District.
Other pics from the same trip here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.383961838296259.107849.161256027233509&type=3
Cheers,
G
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I took it all off and its sheared just inside the axle casing.
it's only taken me nearly 8 years to complete 
I have to do this next month...
Snapped Swivel Bolt Needs Removing
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Bummer
Hopefully one will turn up as that is quickly becoming the preferred option.
Tried the 'Torx trick' but it wouldn't go. Jammed it in hard but it still wouldn't rotate. Those Torx bits are TOUGH! Surprised they didn't snap. Will remember that trick for future ref though
thanks.
G