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ivanlrlukic

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About ivanlrlukic

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    http://xn----dtbedd5apkrd.xn--90a3ac

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  • Location
    Serbia, Belgrade
  1. While reading old topics from 2006. I've came across an information that pdf manual on 48 pages about p38a dash removal exist. Procedure include front door removal as well! Does anybody have it handy nowadays? Regards, Ivan.
  2. Wikipedia "Rover v8" page suggests several EFI systems: " Bosch L-Jetronic (7–8 years, aka Lucas 4CU Flapper), then Hitachi Hotwire (5 years, aka Lucas 14CUX), then the GEMS system (many years) and finally Bosch Motronics for 2 years " Which of them were used on RRC? Which is most reliable and/or which one to avoid? Regards, Ivan.
  3. I believe I've read on the forum that R-380 has HD clutch fork by default. Can somebody confirm or deny that statement?
  4. Following V8 freak's and Western's advice a new clutch master went in (Girling), pedal reset to correct height but problem still persists (cannot change gears with engine running). Cheap (and dirty trick) used again: pedal is set to higher distance from floor (~16 cm) and gear changes are ok. I consider the problem (temporary?) fixed, I do not plan to split engine and gearbox until problem gets worse...
  5. Western, I have to ask: if clutch circuit is semi closed (open when pedal is released, but closed when depressed), wouldn't following be true: longer pedal travel => longer master piston travel => more fluid pumped from master to slave => more clutsch slave piston travel => lonfer slave pushrod travel => longer clutch fork travel?
  6. Hello again, decided to try first with simple (and cheap) solution: today clutch slave and flex hose were changed. Clutch bled with slave hanging on the hose, pedal reset to the 14 cm. Still cannot engage any gear with engine running :-(. Afterwards the pedal was again set for the larger travel (> 14 cm from floor) - gears can be selected with engine running. I guess new clutch (+ pressure plate + clutch bearing + rear main seal + spigot bush) is my next try. I believe I red on the list that "stumpy" box has heavy dutu clutch fork. Is that right or should I add
  7. Hello folks, short intro first: owner for 7 years, went through seals and one master cyl. replacement (2017), had problem with slave seals replacement (reported to forum here: ( ). Soemtimes (not allways) I felt clutch slipping when driving in 5th after sudden accelerator pedal pushed to the floor - only the engine responds with higher revs, but no change in vehicle speed. Seldom gearbox rejected to shift in reverse, but on second try it went. Since last year, in a two months a tea spoon of clutch fluid would be needed to top-up the reservoir. About a month ago LR hasn't been u
  8. I've ordered a few wheel studs FRC6137 to replace broken one (on rear drum brake) on my '92 110. Studs that arrived are 40 mm long. I thought FRC6137 should be 45 mm long, but on LR 4x4 forum different information exist: 40 mm: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=34407 45 mm: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=89946&hl=frc6137#entry776363 Can anybody confirm correct (and safe) length of FRC6137? Regards, Ivan.
  9. It means I understood you well :-), but what torque setting should be used for item 6?
  10. Hi western, maybe I haven't explained correctly, or cannot understand your answer. I'm asking for torque setting for the bolt/nut marked on the attached picture:
  11. Top link bushes should be replaced on my '92 110 sw (NTC1773). Checks in several available WSM made and there is no torque value stated. I guess in that case some common sense value should be used, but I'm not experienced enough to decide? Any help? Regards, Ivan
  12. Thanks Pete3000, in this post (and several linked to it) I've learned that stud replacement could be done with hub on vehicle (am I right?). But I wonder would hitting studs with hammer damage oil seals? In topic http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=34407&hl=ruf000020 several p/n are mentioned related to different studs. Most of them share same dimension M16x1.5, 39mm. I wonder can I purchase any of the mentioned p/n since one that suits my vehicle (FRC6139) seems least available? Regards, Ivan
  13. Is it possible to remove broken stud without special workshop tools (press...)? Any advice how to do it and what tools to use? In case it is not complicated I would replace all studs on this hub because their threads seem to be a bit stretched (overtightening?). Regards, Ivan
  14. Hello everybody, just after purchase I manged to break one of the hub studs and for last two years I'm driving on 4 studs only ('92, 110, 200tdi). Now I've been offered new old stock hub. I wonder is there a way to check if it would fit my car without stripping hub from car and comparing directly? Regards, Ivan.
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