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    Serbia, Belgrade

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  1. Thanks everybody for help. Yes, there are new jacks for not so much money, but at the moment I'm roverles and don't need any extra. On topic: oil leaked out because at the moment it's being used horizontally, to push one tube into another (sailing matter). I believe at the moment I'll top it up with ATF, but will be considering getting new one with next rover. For those interested in rovering in Serbia please check my (bit outdated) web site: ленд-ровер.срб (if you don.t mind Serbian cyrilic). There is even one page in English! 🙂
  2. Hello everybody, mine hydraulic bottle jack needs to be topped up. Which oil could be used for that? 10w40? hypoid? Oil inside does not nave any fancy smell. Regards, Ivan.
  3. Reading horror stories on this forum from people that couldn't enter or start their vehicle with key fob pushes me to imagine me and my family standing in front of it in rain on holiday..
  4. Hello everybody, I wonder what electronic units/systems are really necessary to keep on p38a? Poorly maintained vehicles are lying around for silly money but their electronics are today not reliable enough even if cared well about. Air suspension could be replaced with coli springs. It would be interesting to hear successful stories what units/systems people removed or replaced with more reliable units/systems. Regards, Ivan.
  5. While reading old topics from 2006. I've came across an information that pdf manual on 48 pages about p38a dash removal exist. Procedure include front door removal as well! Does anybody have it handy nowadays? Regards, Ivan.
  6. Wikipedia "Rover v8" page suggests several EFI systems: " Bosch L-Jetronic (7–8 years, aka Lucas 4CU Flapper), then Hitachi Hotwire (5 years, aka Lucas 14CUX), then the GEMS system (many years) and finally Bosch Motronics for 2 years " Which of them were used on RRC? Which is most reliable and/or which one to avoid? Regards, Ivan.
  7. I believe I've read on the forum that R-380 has HD clutch fork by default. Can somebody confirm or deny that statement?
  8. Following V8 freak's and Western's advice a new clutch master went in (Girling), pedal reset to correct height but problem still persists (cannot change gears with engine running). Cheap (and dirty trick) used again: pedal is set to higher distance from floor (~16 cm) and gear changes are ok. I consider the problem (temporary?) fixed, I do not plan to split engine and gearbox until problem gets worse...
  9. Western, I have to ask: if clutch circuit is semi closed (open when pedal is released, but closed when depressed), wouldn't following be true: longer pedal travel => longer master piston travel => more fluid pumped from master to slave => more clutsch slave piston travel => lonfer slave pushrod travel => longer clutch fork travel?
  10. Hello again, decided to try first with simple (and cheap) solution: today clutch slave and flex hose were changed. Clutch bled with slave hanging on the hose, pedal reset to the 14 cm. Still cannot engage any gear with engine running :-(. Afterwards the pedal was again set for the larger travel (> 14 cm from floor) - gears can be selected with engine running. I guess new clutch (+ pressure plate + clutch bearing + rear main seal + spigot bush) is my next try. I believe I red on the list that "stumpy" box has heavy dutu clutch fork. Is that right or should I add it to the former list of new parts? Regards, Ivan.
  11. Hello folks, short intro first: owner for 7 years, went through seals and one master cyl. replacement (2017), had problem with slave seals replacement (reported to forum here: ( ). Soemtimes (not allways) I felt clutch slipping when driving in 5th after sudden accelerator pedal pushed to the floor - only the engine responds with higher revs, but no change in vehicle speed. Seldom gearbox rejected to shift in reverse, but on second try it went. Since last year, in a two months a tea spoon of clutch fluid would be needed to top-up the reservoir. About a month ago LR hasn't been used for about two weeks, it has been parked in sloped street, nose down (if that is important). Car was left there in perfectly running condition. Was in a hurry, jumped in and went off. Just after start it was clear that any gear cannot be selected w/o high force and grinding sound. Because I was in a hurry I continued and finished short trip w/o clutch. In a following days a check was made and conclusion was that every gear can be selected when engine off, but none when engine on :-(. In next days clutch was bled, no bubbles, only black fluid (can be seen in reservir as well), still cannot select any gear when engine running. Idea popped my mind to try to extend clutch plate travel by extending clutch slave rod travel by setting clutch pedal to higher distance from floor (than stated in manual). And voila! I can change gears even when engine running w/o grinding sounds! With a lot of confidence in own LR mechanical skills jumped in and went off. Cold shower - grinding sound again. Then new test has been made: when engine idling any gear cen be selected, but on higher revs - not any! For about two weeks now I drive LR 3 times a week, change gears up and down with double declutching (w/o accelerator pedal in between) and more time between gears (in order to cease engine revs). No any other problem evident. My question is: should I try to replace master + slave + flexi hose first, and then to go complete clutch replacement (plate, spring plate, rel. bearing, lever, spigot, rear main seal), or to go to complete set replacement at once (to shorten repair time), or there are other problems (gearbox...) that could produce problems like mine? Sorry for long post... Regards, Ivan.
  12. I've ordered a few wheel studs FRC6137 to replace broken one (on rear drum brake) on my '92 110. Studs that arrived are 40 mm long. I thought FRC6137 should be 45 mm long, but on LR 4x4 forum different information exist: 40 mm: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=34407 45 mm: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=89946&hl=frc6137#entry776363 Can anybody confirm correct (and safe) length of FRC6137? Regards, Ivan.
  13. It means I understood you well :-), but what torque setting should be used for item 6?
  14. Hi western, maybe I haven't explained correctly, or cannot understand your answer. I'm asking for torque setting for the bolt/nut marked on the attached picture:
  15. Top link bushes should be replaced on my '92 110 sw (NTC1773). Checks in several available WSM made and there is no torque value stated. I guess in that case some common sense value should be used, but I'm not experienced enough to decide? Any help? Regards, Ivan
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