Ed Poore
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Posts posted by Ed Poore
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Ouch!
The bearing shouldn't have any discernible play in itself, but the pinion shaft will be able to wobble in a good bearing - a tiny amount of movement at the bearing becomes a large movement at the end of the shaft. That's why the front end of the shaft is held in the spigot bush (check and replace that while the box is out - it costs pennies but makes a big difference to the box, especially in 4th gear).
Ironically it was fourth gear that was the quietest when it was on the road, third was substantially noisier than the others. I'm wondering whether there's something slightly amiss with the layshaft since if I've understood correctly it's a direct drive (like on almost all Series / Defender boxes) and therefore doesn't use the layshaft. There's a local company who specialise in rebuilding gearboxes and a friend of ours recommends them so may take the bits there and see what they think and depending on cost will either do things myself or just get them to.
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Yet another vote for FTDI - they're stuff is stupidly simple to use and very reliable.If it's any help our company (small family business, i.e. Dad and Mum and I help out with the difficult software side of things once in a while) uses them a heck of a lot with data acquisition systems among other things. In terms of reliability these things are meant to run for years on end or at least many many hours at full pelt. The only issue that has been brought up is if you want to tweak the driver for your own use (i.e. when you plug in the USB cable then it'd appear as Megasquirt in your case) then there are a couple of driver signing issues with Windows 7 x64 but we were investigating cheap methods of doing the signing.We've also got all the necessary fab facilities here for prototyping / production and I know Dad quite enjoys fun projects for vehicles - he's built a very successful power steering unit for amateur rally cars that allows them to adjust the level of assistance.Oh - definitely not computer illiterate given I've worked professionally as a software developer and am now have an MEng in Electrical and Electronic Engineering. Likewise don't have a V8 vehicle or Megasquirt but have been contemplating for a long time to fit a V8 to the 88"...
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Thanks. Managed to get it off in the end by driving a small screwdriver bit in one side and managed to get a claw hammer to grip a lip through the clutch housing. Almost winded myself when it eventually came off and whacked me in the stomach.
Bearing is noisy (one in the bell housing) and there's a substantial amount of play but looks in reasonable condition bizarrely.
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Does anybody have any suggestions on how to remove the primary pinion cover and oil seal assembly on a suffix D gearbox for a 1983 Series III? I've been tracing down a nasty grinding in the gearbox (notably when idle) which is definitely originating from by the rear of the bell-housing. Given that the 88" has done very little and was sitting for almost a decade in a garage before I acquired it I suspect the main input bearing has gone. It certainly sounds like it.
Now my problem is that so far all the gaskets have required the large version of Land Rover's Special Tool #1 and a sharp screwdriver to break any gaskets to separate various components. Due to the shape of the bell-housing I can't get this technique to work (although I will persist in trying) to break the gasket between the bell-housing and the pinion cover.
Having said that - looking in the workshop manuals, the green bible and various other sources it does look like I need to remove the securing nut on the layshaft to remove the bell-housing, I assume this is correct?
Many thanks
Ed
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Not trying to put anyone off (I'd have a go if I had the opportunity) but does anyone honestly thing they can better Land Rover's own traction control systems?
Haven't tried a Defender with TC / TerrainResponse but did get to drive a Disco4 last year and it's truly incredible what the traction control on that thing can do.
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I don't know about the HD springs but I did fit (for exactly the same reason) some standard (van-back) springs to my 110CSW since I've now got a gun cabinet permanently installed in the back.
The dampers (technically the springs are the shock-absorbers) are cheap generic 110 ones and standard-length, they have been replaced in the last 20k since they were weeping. Now something that did happen with putting the "normal" springs on was that the vehicle now rides ~1" higher than before because the original CSW springs were sagging, i.e. it's back to almost normal height now. My understanding is that all springs should be the same "height" just have different levels of stiffness and therefore how much they can be compressed by as opposed to how tall they are.
Although I'm not a definitive source on it I would have said that there are two possibilities - 1) the dampers are too short or 2) the springs are not "standard height". I'd go with 2) which basically means that the HD springs are in fact ones with a lift. If you want I can see if I remember to measure the height of the van-back ones on my CSW tomorrow when I bolt the tub back on (hoping to be able to separate the rear x-member a bit to do some preemptive painting on it to stop rust but doesn't look like jacking it up is a simple job).
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I recently had to source some belts and pulleys for a final year project (needed to gear-up a DC motor spinning at 1500RPM to ~16000 RPM to test an alternator). By chance I came across Challenge PT (Power Transmission) through a local distributor - David Harris of Whitland and although Challenge PT were less than helpful (borderline rude) when I tried to speak to them directly on the phone they do have a huge catalogue of parts (pulleys from <100mm to >1400mm any type of V-belt / Poly-V belt etc, motor mounts).
I would be suprised if they don't have something suitable - the PDF version of the catalogue can be downloaded from here: http://challengept.com/flipcatalogue/files/ChallengeTechCat2011.pdf (bear in mind that it's pretty big - ~70MB). The challenge (no pun intended) might be in finding a distributor local to yourself. If you do struggle then I can dig out the phone number for the distributor where I got my pulleys and belts from (West Wales) and they're usually more than helpful so in the worst case scenario might be able to post things to you.
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In my case I needed location data and what they were worried about was the risk of someone spotting a unique car and being able to narrow down where they live.
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You probably wouldn't be able to get that. I've tried to get hold of some statistics for a uni project - didn't have any luck via the DVLA but there's a chap called Dr Daryl Lloyd who works for the Department for Transport Vehicle Statistics department who was very useful.Main reason you can't get them through the DVLA is data protection and the fact they charge ~£60k for the information, however you may be able to get the DfT to simply count the number of RRC for you from their copy of the data.
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ampage (that word again)
Almost there
, amperage. -
Just thought I'd add that Lancaster "can't" touch earlier than Td5 110 Station Wagons if they "unmodified". Tried to get a quote off them for a 110 CSW (9 seats) and their underwriters won't touch anything with more than 8 seats total.
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Urgent help needed. I'm in a panic state as i've immobilised my truck.
THis is a stock vehicle that shipped with the 10AS unit disabled. I was playing around with the nanocom and after that all looked well until i pulled out the key and turned off the nanocom.
i got a nice red light glowing solid on my speedo. i tried to put the key in and start the truck, but it won't start at all. not even turn over. the engine immobilised light is flashing when i try that. so i decided to close all the doors and the red light on the speedo is flashing. so this tells me the alarm is armed and all doors are closed.
next, when i open the doors the horn beeps twice and the red light on the speedo goes solid.
how can i start my truck now?
no, i never had and key fobs or anything else other than the keys. yes, there's a small metal tag which came with one of the keys with 6 characters. i believe this must be the number code i need. as i've read, there should be 4 numbers so the first 2 must be letters.
i've tried removing the battery but it doesn't help after i put it back it's still the red light on the speedo.
what can i try next? or do i have to tow it down to the dealship?
is there a way to rewrite the 10AS unit and disable it?
Thanks!
Andrew
Supposedly if you have a Td5 (I say this because it didn't work on the one we had) you can enter a four digit code by unlocking and locking the door in a particular pattern. I don't remember the exact methods (hopefully in your handbook) but you essentially have to unlock the vehicle, then lock it x times (first digit), then unlock it for the second digit number of times and so on. The reason this didn't work was that it seemed someone had replaced the doors previously as there were no wires going from the door to the engine management so could not have been the case.
We did speak to a local dealer though (because we didn't know this or have a code or a fob) and after taking the registration number and a few other details they gave us the code and told us how to enter it. On finding out it was not possible (the 90 had to be left in a field at a shoot where it had died) then on repairing it (blown ECU as well) then the garage sourced a fob for us.
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That is correct. However I have spoken to TFL in the past and they were next to useless. There was a long "discussion" about how they determine how to charge you, this was a while ago, pre flow chart.
The outcome was that they said it should only apply to commercial vehicles that weighed (kerb weight) over 1.02 tons (or some figure close to that, I can't remember the exact one). However the process by which they decided what was commerical and what wasn't was basically that they looked at the Maximum Gross Weight of the vehicle and if this was over 1.02 tons then if it was a diesel it had to comply with the LEZ. I then tried to explain to them that the weight they were actually looking at was nothing to do with the what the vehicle actually weighed as it included what it was allowed to tow / carry in the boot. She then countered that my vehicle (300Tdi 110CSW) was over the limit anyway so what did it matter? I replied saying that yes it was over 1.02 tons but it actually weighed ~2.1 tons not what they think the V5C says which is 3.5 tons.
I then spoke with the DVLA and they were far more helpful but confessed that they had no bloody clue as to what TFL were trying to do. They'd apparently had people get in touch with them (as they've had quite a few questions about the LEZ) and they don't understand how on earth TFL are classifying vehicles. They did say though that if I was able to provide valid proof to accompany any changes I wanted made to the V5C then they'd be more than happy to accommodate them. The stupid thing is that we also have a Mitsubishi Shogun which should also have to comply (older that the 110) but that first of all has the Body Type registered as Estate and secondly they haven't got any weights put down on the vehicle.
Having said that I did send one letter with the V5C to Swansea asking them to change the body type (and if possible remove the weight since the Shogun's was missing it) but they replied back saying that they could only change the body type to estate if I had a letter from Land Rover stating that my vehicle came off the production line as a SW. I've since been caught up with lots of stuff and haven't got around to doing anything but I will try and send in photos over the next week or so before having to chase up Land Rover for a letter.
In terms of 110's that were "designed" according to TFL as minibuses - TFL only have access to the information Swansea provide therefore if this is a problem you can change the number of seats on the V5C to below the limit. Mine is currently plated as 9 seats (including driver) although it came with 10 seats. Although the V5 originally had no number under the seating capacity I had this changed to 9 since at the time I could apply for a Congestion Charge exemption under those conditions and I having it plated at 10 seats makes it a pain in the backside with insurers etc.
Hope that provides a bit more information and background - basically that TFL are useless and they themselves have got no clue about what's going on. Whilst trying to speak to someone on the phone I got transferred 9 times between 3 people, one of them managed to transfer me to herself and claimed it was a different department, the others said they were transferring me to the relevant department and transferred me back and forth. I'm afraid that after about 15 minutes on the phone (after eventually getting through to the "right" department) I got so fed up I hung up on them but wasn't getting anywhere so there was no benefit to continuing.
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My understanding of it was that if it was a minibus then you'd still have to comply with the Low Emissions Zone but perhaps under different regs.
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Didn't matter, in both instances was on an unlimited connection. The only annoying thing was that I could have downloaded the 2GB in a few minutes had Autodesk's servers allowed it.
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Didn't matter, in both instances was on an unlimited connection. The only annoying thing was that I could have downloaded the 2GB in a few minutes had Autodesk's servers allowed it.
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I think it is. The download is really slow though. Was on a connection where we can get 10MB/s (that's bytes not bits) and Autodesk limit it to about 200kb/s (that's bits) :-(
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If you have access to a .ac.uk address then you can get full copies of all of Autodesk's software for free. Favourite one is Inventor so far.
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Fair play to the garage, and although they are admitting it's their fault, it puts them in a good light. A new Garrett turbo at trade price is going to be about £400, plus other minor items, plus labour.
If it was me - I would continue to use the garage.
Les.
Well we'll see what comes back on it. They normally fit uprated components so fingers crossed they do the same this time although I have a feeling they may try and minimise cost.
It's a small garage that's family run and really only do Land Rovers so given the small community bad press wouldn't be good for business.
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What basically happened was that I stopped by this morning with the photo from the first post and said this happened after your service. They were perplexed and although not trying to I got the impression they were going to wriggle out of it - the owner (not the chap who did the service) said to drop it around and they'd dig out the offending item and see where it came from.
When I got back there was a phone call from them (Blaenwaen Garage in Carmarthenshire) and they'd checked the batch of Britpart filters they'd had and there was, unlike previous filters, a washer inside the plastic cover rather than taped to the top of the filter as per usual. Rough size was correct so after photographing the entire process I removed the washer from the turbo and drove it slowly the few miles to the garage this afternoon. When I got there and showed the washer it was clear that it was the one from inside the filter and Lyndon the owner showed me the packaged filter it comes in.
So new turbo and will hopefully be back in a couple of days.
I'm still a little unsure of the garage but they seem to be OK, just need to stay on your toes with them. I suspect the guy who did the service is going to be in for a bit of a rough time but just grateful that it's no money out of my pocket. And yes it's a hell of an expensive mistake to make...
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Well it was pre-intercooler so hopefully not much if anything
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Well it was a Britpart filter and the latest batch they have comes with a washer loose in the bag. Got it out and took it to the garage, they're now fitting a new turbo for me.
Well that's a relief!
, amperage.
Should i put new springs on?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Get a few large friends to sit in it - measure the gap between the tyre and the arch and then go for a bouncy drive and re-measure. Simplest method for testing whether it works.I thought the self-leveller might have been working a little but after fitting a set of normal springs to it I no longer bottom out on the shocks as easily going over speed-bumps with a load.