Ed Poore
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Posts posted by Ed Poore
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A thoroughly enjoyable day out despite the mishap in the TDV8 cutting short the weekend a bit but at least I can get some jobs done today.
Thoroughly pleasurable company and hope everyone enjoyed the entertainment that the Range Rover provided!
Hopefully when everyone gets back they can upload some of the footage. Jamie got a good video of myself and James going up one of the lanes where Chris had rescued a beached Shogun.
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Just to add insult to wallet injury that tyre hadn't even covered 1000 miles yet...
Suppose it's one benefit of having a newer Range Rover - more cameras to see where things are going, perhaps a slightly more advanced pet project for me in the works...
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Right I think I've decided - what the hell I'll come along. What sort of time were you thinking of starting on the Saturday? I don't particularly fancy battling the M25, M40 and M6 on a Friday night so I'll probably get up early on Saturday and head up then, that way at least I get a few hours sleep before hand.
Jamie, if you want you're more than welcome to have a ride with me if you fancy getting out and about over the weekend? Will be just me and the pup so plenty of space. The natural route for me would be to come off the M6 at Penrith anyway.
Mo - do you want me to bring the stuff up? Should be able to fit it in the boot of the Range Rover if I move the dog into the second row of seats, only thought is carrying it around all weekend - perhaps we could arrange to leave it at the pub? Saves you a trip down to me.
Ed
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I thought I'd better mention that I've been mulling this over for a while, still undecided at the moment but sorely tempted to just say hey ho lets go.
Need to see what the new vehicle's capable of after all (3.6 TDV8 Range Rover).
Will endeavor to make a decision as soon as possible anyway and let people know (I have been chatting with Mo in the background). Similarly if anyone from down south is interested in having a lift then I'm sure something could be arranged, it'll be slightly more luxurious travelling than the majority of vehicles I'm sure
(only condition would be comfortable around a dog / puppy as she'll have to come with me).Ed
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Just to warn you I have no idea of where we're going to be in Lancaster or what the plans etc are (I'm driving and shooting). One person has dropped out at the replacement may be driving himself up so may have a bit more space although I suspect given the other car is a Fiesta we'll be putting as much into the L322 as possible
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If it's just the glass I should be able to fit them in if someone can get them down to Lancaster for this weekend? I and some others are heading up there for a shoot (leaving London on Friday night) and returning sometime on Sunday. Shooting on the Saturday and dinner event in the evening.
Think there's going to be 4 of us in the Range Rover with kit but would imagine they could fit onto the parcel shelf in the back.
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It certainly has - so much so that I've changed the vehicle and would have to enter in a Full-Fat L322 now...
Be quite entertaining though...
(Albeit probably quite expensive, if nothing else the continual urge to boot the TDV8).
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Well I suspect many of you may consider me to be bonkers but given the road mileage I've been doing recently I've pretty much decided that the Defender should be replaced with something slightly more comfortable on the road. Annoyingly though I seem to have acquired an itch for a V8, therefore for those and some other reasons (loyalty to Land Rover perhaps being one
) I've been looking at TDV8 Range Rovers...So not being able to justify keeping 2 let alone 3 vehicles I'm thinking of selling the 110 and Series III (88"). Now the question is price and hence the advice...
Unfortunately I don't have any photos to hand as they're on the other computer and haven't put it back together yet but broadly speaking:
300Tdi Defender 110 CSW in white: ~141k currently
- Currently 9 seater + cubby box but have front middle seat as well
- Reasonably new set of BFG KM2 Muds 265x75R16 on alloys (think they've done about 15k from memory)
- First Four tubular winch bumper + 10,000lbs winch (cheapo Winch Solutions one but been rock solid)
- Disco 1.2 transfer box and new R380 fitted recently (about 10k ago again from memory)
- Bullbox Gun Cabinet in boot (similar to MSS box) which fills up space between wheel arches, foam cut for my shotgun and rifle
- Comprehensive service history and plenty of receipts
- Mantec raised air intake
- Heated windscreen available (bought in frame but not got around to fitting it).
- Where possible I have used genuine parts over anything else when servicing and replacing various parts
- Have fitted standard height HD suspension because I used to be regularly transporting 9 people to and from shoots
- Retrimmed front seats (god it made a difference when I did that!)
- I'm second private owner (trade dealer was between me and original owner)
- Used as daily driver for the last 5 years I've owned it
- Bad bits
- - Bottoms of all four doors (first and second rows) are rusting but not irreparable (I have not welding capability or time currently otherwise I would have started)
- - Rear windscreen elements have burnt out and I've not got around to replacing it
- - Scratches here and there and couple of small character dents on the front wings - it has been used off-road but not abused or used competitively
I still have the original bumper for this one so can return it back to more or less original spec reasonably easily and quickly. I can basically summarise the 110 as having a few niggling issues but has been a fantastically solid runner ever since I've owned it and just completed a 1500 mile round trip to see parents and grandparents over Christmas without missing a beat.
Series III - 88" from 1983, 2.25D hard-top
- Galvanised chassis
- Rebuilt gearbox
- Mud tyres
- Roof rack
- New doors all round but still (after several years) not got around to painting the undercoat...
- Stripped and rebuilt engine
- 300Tdi Disco engine available as well
- Bad bits
- - Again "character" dents on front wings
- - Engine runs but smokes a little (little tinkering on the IP timing should be able to get it to pass an MOT, maybe with some new oil rings)
Essentially I replaced the chassis on the 88" and then rebuilt the gearbox and engine (minimally with the intention of getting it to pass an MOT which it did for a year). Through lack of use and acquiring a 300Tdi Disco free of charge it has been the intention to replace the wheezy 2.25D with the 300Tdi from the Disco (chassis was shot). The 88" has been started reasonably regularly (every month I think - it lives at my parents currently) but I suspect the lift pump diaphragm is knackered so struggles to start but once it does runs well apart from being a bit smoky. So the current engine is probably workable but to be honest the 300Tdi would transform it for someone who had the time.
Of course things would be far simpler with photos and I'll be trying to get some together but the last few weeks have been non-stop. I have a rough idea in my mine of what I realistically might get for them but I would appreciate some second opinions without any biasing from my side. Of course with the Defender going out of production next year I anticipate their value rising considerably
Apologies for the rather long winded post... If I was made of money and had the space I'd keep both but alas that's not the case
and them V8's been calling... -
It *shouldn't* have done any damage to the vehicle electrics since everything crucial in vehicles is supposed to survive reverse polarities. For exactly this reason!! That's not saying a Defender will be the same though...
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Crikey. I would have said 40mpg was impossible in a Defender based on my experience but there you go! Nice work
The 200Tdi isn't up to it I don't think. On the motorway loaded up with stuff moving house it struggles to keep itself in the power band going up the bigger hills as it is with the 1.4 box. Hang 2 tonnes off the back of it on top of all that and I just don't see it being a viable option upping the gearing further! That said I have not driven one in that configuration so willing to be proven wrong.
I've just fitted a 1.2 set of gears into my 110 and I would advise anyone to do it - massive difference. In terms of towing I haven't yet put a decent trailer behind the 110 with the new ratios but have done a run with ~1/2 a tonne of ammunition in the boot in addition to other
carpuseful stuff which I have done with the 1.4. Overall conclusion is that on big hills (thinking of a couple on the Heads of the Valley's route) it didn't really struggle any more than when it had the 1.2 in but just had to be in a lower gear. It's pretty happy going up the big hills at 60 in 4th rather than 5th. Overall I would have said that in 4th it can accelerate slightly more and maintain a slightly higher speed.But apparently my 300 runs well - as far as I know it hasn't been tuned by the previous owner but does seem to be pretty quick compared to other Landy's (maybe just the way I drive!) but seemed to be coping better than a mate's Tdci today...
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I have an old (must be about 7 years old now) Champion Winch (10,000 lbs I think) that I got from Winch Solutions which from what I understand is what the Warrior winches used to be called. I seem to remember paying about £230 for it and for the price it's been very good value. It's done everything I've asked of it - admittedly not much in terms of challenge folk.
Been capable of recovering the 110 fully loaded on the farm when I've got stuck, admittedly it's usually had to involve getting a tractor to act as a winching base because I inevitably get stuck where there's nothing to winch off (one particular place coming out of a wood through a bog springs to mind!). Recovered friends' LRs when they've got stuck but used it most for pulling trees and large logs etc. that have been cut up.
7 years on and it's had bugger all done to it - might have cleaned and sprayed the cable once or even twice since I've had it. Works each time I go to use it and just sits outside in all elements on the front of the 110 day in day out.
So in summary it sounds like you'd be using it about as much as mine in which case I'd highly recommend it (if indeed they are the same as the old Champion winch).
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If you're just loading it up with weight I'd just replace the springs with the standard heavy duty ones (people have mentioned using the 130 springs which have a built-in helper as well). I had a similar issue and just replaced front and back with heavy duty ones (Britpart if I remember correctly) and it's been fine since - albeit currently a bit harsh because I don't carry as much weight around any more.
See the attached picture. At the time that photo was taken there were at least two chainsaws, 10 gallons of petrol, gun cabinet, sledge hammers, machetes, various recovery equipment, fencing materials and some logs in the back (probably a couple of guns as well).
If I'd fitted a lift at the time then 90% of the time I'm sure the vehicle would feel too high, as it is it's quite good fun watching people trying to get into it as for some reason it seems to sit quite a bit higher than other Defenders that friends have.
(Noticed that you're in Surrey - could always pop around and have a look if you wanted)
[edit]You'll probably need to disconnect the anti-roll bar if fitted on the rear to fit the new springs in, I cheated slightly and used a digger to compress the spring and then tied it up compressed to slot in place[/edit]
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No, 6 bolts and the linkages and the whole thing 'just' slides off.
Yeah! If only it were that simple - I finally succeeded in removing one yesterday and the bolt in between the linkages, main-box and front output housing conveniently decided to round itself off (the last one to remove as well)... That was fun trying to remove that.
Spongie - I can't remember whether it's included in the 6 bolts but you'll also need to unbolt the driver's side mount that goes into the cross-member. You have two options for that you can either remove the four bolts holding the bracket onto the output housing or you can remove the one nut that holds the bolt onto the cross member bracket. If you do the latter you'll need to jack up the case in order for the remaining thread / bolt to clear the whole.
My suggestion would be remove the single bolt as it's simpler. You'll need to break the seal made by the gasket (sometimes no mean feat) and because the chassis bracket is oblong you can get a crowbar between the transfer box and the cross member and use that as leverage to break the seal. That way when it does go it won't go too far and fall out.
(Just realised you may have dropped that cross-member already - the removal I did was as I've been breaking the Disco so judicious use of the grinder has been applied to the floor panels in this Disco)...
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Could have helped if I had seen the post, your only 10 mins away.
Thanks for replying anyway, useful to know for the future but hopefully won't be required anytime soon! What was a nice relaxing day initially turned out to be exhausting at the end of it - trying to keep gear changes smooth when brakes are being applied and the car was in gear took a surprising amount of concentration. Particularly as I didn't want the hassle of making it 2 cars that have written themselves on the back of my 110...
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Never mind - sorted, after towing it in 3rd gear for ~10 miles (why it was in gear is beyond me) it turned out to be running when we pulled over for a "see how you're doing" so it was driven the rest of the way and left at the garage.
Stupid timings and the like but all sorted now.
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Basically I got back home about 20 minutes ago and a mate has booked his car that's been refusing to start into a garage in Haslemere tomorrow morning and not really thought it through earlier about how he's going to get it there.
So on the off chance - does anyone know of anyone who might have a suitable trailer or fixed tow-bar that could be borrowed at this extremely short notice in exchange for a crate of beer or more? I am suggesting he reverts to just phone the RAC or someone like that but given it's a BMW 3-series we all know how stubborn those drivers can be!
[edit]Subject should have been tow-bar - I have plenty of tow ropes that are strong enough![/edit]
Many thanks
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Now you mention it I vaguely remember that being the case now but the 112 was being promoted as it works in Europe.
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Something I found out a while when mountaineering was that if you're phoning the emergency services from a mobile to use 112 not 999 as they can automatically triangulate you from the cell towers. Although use 999 from a land line as they can do reverse directory look up on those.
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Mmmm....2 wheel drive and a vehicle that gets stuck if I park it on the grass in my garden! So long as all the punches are in the car park, and the site is within 10 miles of home - certainly!
Si
That's fine - put a V8 in the boot and use that to keep it charged.
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Dates dependent I'd be interested - should be fun in a barge despite having a winch... Which would probably make me a yella fella as other than that pretty standard.
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I've gone from BFG A/T to MTs and the steering got very very light as a consequence.
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I've got a bumper sat unused in the shed.
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If you don't grease the hinge points on your after market spare wheel carrier it becomes stiff enough to hold the door open. Save work not greasing and save money not needing a stay or strut
Well, works for me
Mo
Same method I use, didn't occur to me to mention it.
It certainly catches out people when they try and shut it and face-plant the door...
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It might flatten through the sensor wire. Fundamentally this provides the excitation current required by the alternator in order for it to work. I doubt disconnecting it and running the engine would have had any effect on it.
When you turn on the ignition the battery is connected through the charge indicator bulb to the field coils of the alternator. These are just wire coils with one side earthed (usually) so without the engine turning these just provide a path to ground hence the bulb illuminates. Once the engine starts the alternator starts turning and then the electro-magnetic effects kick in and the current flowing through the field coil is "amplified" by the alternator (the mechanical rotation of the engine converts mechanical energy into electrical in the alternator).
A functioning alternator should be chucking out 14.4V in order to charge the battery properly hence you should check for that. If the charge light takes some time to extinguish after starting the engine then it's reasonably likely that something within the alternator has shorted out (diodes may have fried etc.) with a multi-meter you could open up the alternator and measure impedances if you wanted to help isolate the problem - sometimes it can be fixed reasonably easily sometimes it's not worth the hassle. I had a situation where wet mud had managed to arc-weld some diodes together, that wasn't really worth fixing (could have been done) but for £40 a new alternator arrived.
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I concur with ejparrott, had the same issue on my 300Tdi Defender and was a fuse blown in the cabin (indicators went as well).
(only condition would be comfortable around a dog / puppy as she'll have to come with me).
) I've been looking at TDV8 Range Rovers...
and them V8's been calling...
A Defender To Use On Ascension Island Help/advice Please
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Speaking from experience of owning a 300Tdi (and actually selling it at the moment but might be a little bit beyond your budget - at least I'd hope so
) that's had no issues of over-heating apart from the time when I had a leak from the P-gasket surrounding the water pump. Aside from that it's always been rock-solid about 1/3 of the way up the temperature gauge. Not that I'd imagine it being much of a deciding factor but my parent's neighbour has a 200Tdi 90 and the engine sounds much louder and; not rougher but perhaps more agricultural than the 300Tdi in my Defender and the Disco we had.
Having owned an 88, 90 and 110 I can resoundingly say that unless I could buy all three I would always go for the 110. The Series 3 is immense fun off-road bouncing absolutely everywhere and not really giving a **** about what was being driven into. The 90 was capable but always felt twitchy and bouncy on the road - particularly after buying the 110. The killer with both was the "lack" of space - yes they have a large boot but they're not really more than a 2 seater if you have luggage. Hence the reason for the 110 - that could at least transport 5 people and kit in relative comfort, I say relative because I've just bought a 3.6 TDV8 FFRR and it can't quite carry the same amount of stuff but the passengers are in far more comfort!
I've taken all four of those Land Rovers off-road and have to say that aside from tyres the FFRR is probably the most capable (haven't really pushed it yet but have been seriously impressed with what I have done) and then I'd have to say the 110. I've rarely been in a situation that I needed / wanted a slightly shorter wheel-base, most of the time I find that it helped since the other end of the vehicle tended to be on a good surface. In terms of the remaining two the 90 was probably technically more capable but definitely had more fun in the Series - particularly given you can put it in 2WD and get the back out properly.
In terms of tyres after experiences within the family the 90 and 110 ran BFG ATs and got at least 65k out of them when I swapped them. Still had masses of tread left but I think they were just getting tired and had to be running at quite a high pressure (about 40 psi if I remember correctly) to not look too flat. A set of BFG Muds came up on this forum cheap and I got them - the transformation off-road was astonishing and on-road (once the 1.2 transfer box was fitted) they were a little noisier than the ATs but not massively so. I've managed to go spend circa £1k on tyres for the RR this month after destroying two of them on the Lakes trip (one with a spectacular pop) and try as I might have not even put a scratch into the BFG tyres and I've not been gentle on them. Not driven on volcanic stuff with them but in my opinion are by a long way the best tyre you can fit to a Defender (these have been running 265/75R16s but I don't think the size is too much of an issue).
Playing devils advocate slightly have you considered a Disco? They're a damn sight cheaper than the Defenders in general and if spending most of the time on-road would be more comfortable, you can get them with the same engines and (I might be wrong) but more likely to come with air-con which might be a consideration. The vehicle I'm sure will cope with the temperature but having experienced a Defender that's been in the sun for a long time air-con would be appreciated to cool it down!