JimAttrill

Copper grease does help with the corroding bolts. I have changed the P gasket twice on mine and now it is leaking again. So stuff it, it can leak a bit for all I care. At least the metal/plastic gasket will not blow out like the original paper one. And I have an alarm on the water level if all else fails.

Ah, I've never taken one apart so far, and maybe this is all conjecture as I have to wait for the zorst to rust out first, which it refuses to do.

No, it's a simple job, no pitfalls.

I have a Detroit on the back of my 110 and am happy with it on road. Just don't turn the wheel with the clutch in, ie I 'drive' into parking spaces else it clonks at the back a lot. And yes, in a Bowler or a 90" the wheelbase is too short for a Detroit, causing it to unlock and lock all the time. The manual says that the locker should not be used in short wheelbases, which they define as < 127" The Disco/RR 100" wheelbase is also a bit short. I know a guy who took one out cos his wife didn't like it. On that point, a Detroit in a 127" LR is not noticeable, according to a guy I talked to.

You can do it yourself if you have or can borrow a gas blowlamp. Use big sticks of solder available from welding places and LOTS of acid flux, applied with an old paint brush. I must say in the workshop we leave those plugs well alone unless we really have to try, as in 90% of the time they break like yours did.

You are very lucky it didn't hydraulic on that diesel in the cylinders. The rods bend very easily, even on the starter. Keep your fingers crossed.

TD5 intercoolers to tend to crack, though that is fixable with alloy solder (we just bought some, and it works on radiators so should be ok on an intercooler).

I'm going to do that when my zorst goes. It should decrease back-pressure, get the turbo to spin up faster and all for a small increase in noise (I hope). But my zorst is still good at 11years and 150k miles. That's the trouble with living on the highveld ps. earlier this year we fitted a turbo (from Oz) to a Nissan 4.2 six fitted to a SIIB 110" fc. We had the exhaust system made with NO silencers, and it was still quieter than the original. But apparently it is illegal in the UK to not have a silencer at all. I suppose you could make a fake one to fool the feds.

Your engine has the same R380 as the others, but the xfer box ratios are lower because of the high-revving engine. I believe it is something like a 1.6 ratio as once fitted to the 2.5 petrol back in the old days. (For comparison, the normal Defender box is a 1.4 and the Disco box is a 1.2). We had one in the other day with a destroyed rear Rover 2-pin diff caused by the owner trying to do donuts. Maybe the engine has a bit too much power for the R380 as well.

I rave about K&N filters, though not in a positive manner Personally I think you would be better off removing your existing filter if you want more performance. Just start saving for the inevitable rebore which will happen sooner rather than later. Fit one by all means, but don't go anywhere even slightly dusty. I guess Wales in the rain will be ok, but not France or Spain in the summer (and certainly not anywhere in Africa). Don't believe the K&N blurb, where they say that you are better off not cleaning the filter as it only works if it is partly or completely blocked; either way it doesn't work well enough. BTW you get a million-mile warranty with the K&N. This is not for the engine, though ....

And don't buy cheap carp, insist on genuine made-in-krautland BERU glow plugs. I fitted cheepo 'County' plugs once. All four lasted less than a year and one sheared off in the head when I tried to remove it. So now I have a 300tdi with 3 glows at the most. Rather like a TD5 which has only 4. As the engine now has 240k kms on it, I can wait until it needs an overhaul and get the engineering shop to remove the broken glow plug.

Yes, the starter motor method will either undo the nut or break the crank, but that is only half the problem. If you cannot lock the crank you cannot do the nut up to the correct (high) torque, IIRC it is 265Nm for a 200tdi and 80Nm + 90 deg for a 300tdi. 200tdi's have a history of crank bolts coming loose and destroying the end of the crank. We often get 300tdi's in the workshop where the bolts are not tight at all. Either the workshop does not have the tool or are too lazy to fit it. So even if you go to a workshop you should ask to see the tool before getting them to do the job. It's your crankshaft that is at stake here.

Sounds like not enough fuel. If the vehicle has been serviced regularly it is not normally the diesel filter but the lift pump going south (slowly). Not expensive to change one luckily. Remember to either buy new unions and olives, or you can saw the pipes off the old pump and reuse the unions, but not the olives.

Just wondering - why do you want to fit a breather?

I would bodge it up somehow. That is only a dust/mud seal anyway and even a good one won't keep all the water out. The important seal is the one that keeps the oil in

I've got a Detroit fitted in the Salisbury (no pins at all) which seems to be very strong. I had the drive members welded to the half-shafts using Tig welding on the outside only. One side was oil-lubricated anyway as the seal must have gone, and pulling the shafts in and out a few times has allowed oil through to the other side now. I don't know which seals I have fitted but they do not leak. My Microcat seems to show about four possible part numbers for this seal. Some are in Italics, some have ISO (whatever that means) = 'Y' . Most confusing. The numbers I get are FTC8221, FTC2783, RTC3511 and for the latest VIN nos it is FTC4785. I think the last one is what I have fitted. Who knows? I notice some put forward the proposition to make sure that the weakest link is the easiest and possibly cheapest part to replace. Seems like a good idea. In that case the easiest and cheapest part is definitely the drive member followed by the propshaft UJ's. I know one owner of a 2.8 TGV in a manual Disco and he hasn't had any problems, yet that is.

It means 'peetwoseven fivepeeel' doesn't it?

I have the Haynes manual, though I must say I didn't buy it, got it free from LRE with a subs. It's not bad, though the engine bit is dated, pre-tdi mostly. Good stuff on bodywork and seats and quite a lot of good advice. Better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick, as they say in Oz.

Yes, Matt wins the prise, well he would if there were one.... Client (to waiter in Chinese restaurant): "Waiter, this steak is rubbery!" Waiter: "Thank you sir"

Thanks Rick for your history of GUD. It seems that the brand name has discontinued in Oz in favour of Ryco. Here, the competition for GUD is FRAM where it all came from. Fram are cheaper and (I think) poorer quality than GUD. I have considered putting the K&N on top of the Mantec snorkel as a pre-filter (it may manage that) but it would look silly. I'll investigate the glass bowl Donaldson filter. They all tend to be very pricey but very good...

I have a EGT computer thingy (actually an air-con controller) with digital readout and settable alarm (this is actually the actuation of the air con when the temp gets too high) made by Shinko in rice-burner land. I fitted it because I tweaked my injector. The info on how to do this is still in the technical archive of the Land Rover Addict (ex LRO, ex LRE) forum. My boost gauge is standard VDO plumbed into the line from the turbo to the injector pump. I did not alter the max power setting on the pump, but found the biggest improvement was moving the diapragm 45 degrees clockwise. I originally had too high egt - going towards 800c - and backed off all my settings so that my alarm goes off at 725c and does that only rarely on long uphill climbs. The altitude of 5000' doesn't help much. But without the EGT meter I would have blown my motor long ago. It also helps when shutting down. I switch off at 199c (an arbitrary figure) as the engine at normal idle is at about 145c. For this reason I do not stop the engine at all when filling up at motorway service staions as it can take more than 5 minutes for the EGT to come down. With normal parking at the supermarket you can switch off straight away. I now have 240k kms on the turbo with no problems.

Dunno, most of the V8 110's I drive seem to have no power at all. All that petrol just gnerates a nice noise.

Ok, trivial pursuits time .... anorak mode on/ why is a Rostyle wheel called that? Clue: it doesn't mean 'Rover Style' althought the wheels were first used on the Rover P5 anorak mode off\

200tdi cambelt changes are more difficult than a 300tdi, and will cost more in hours. You can't take the pistons out of a 200tdi with the engine in situ because you can't get the ladder frame off with the engine in. (this is hearsay, but I presume it is correct). Crank pulleys tend to come loose on 200tdi's which can wreck the crank. A 300tdi pulley will not come off if the bolt is correctly torqued. (It often isn't, either because the mechanic does not have the locking tool or is too lazy to fit it). The 300tdi toroidal oil pump is superior, giving lots of flow and pressure. For this reason it is unusual to have to grind the crank even at high mileages. The 200tdi/LT77 combo is mounted further back and lower than the 300tdi/R380. Some say this gives better weight distribution, especially in a trialing 90. 200tdi's suffer from the cam bearings coming loose which can cause engine failure due to lack of pressure. And here in SA the 200tdi is a rare beast as opposed to loads of 300tdi's. This makes the 300tdi spares much easier to obtain.

Had an old 110 in the workshop recently, one of the ones with a V8 and sliding windows. The owner had never noticed that when you put the brakes on the front sidelights came on..... Had a newish TD5 in the workshop recently, and the owner mentioned that the engine would not stop if the brake pedal was pushed.... Also the dash lights came on... The cause in both cases was the same. Some twit had fitted a standard single-filament 21w indicator bulb into the stop/tail light socket. It takes a bit of effort, but can be done. The bulb then shorts the brake light when the pedal is pushed causing all sorts of strange effects. The TD5 owner insisted that nobody had touched the rear lights at any time (Yeah well). So I reckon the bulb must have changed itself. Just thought you might like to know in case you also get strange electrical happenings.