-
Posts
718 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Roverdrive
-
-
Just a quick update.
After shaking the piggy bank, I decided a budget option had to be the order of the day.
A search found this on Amazon.
Fitted and working well. Max chat showing a temperature of 770 deg C, so a little tweaking required.
Boost gauge next.
-
Tom
I am on the Wirral.
PM me if you want me to take a look
Mike
-
1
-
-
Another vote for 300 EGR plugs, as it matches what is below the cubby box of my '97 110.
EGR has been removed from my vehicle, or perhaps was never fitted as the wiring harness connection for the fuel pump is not there either.
-
Hmm you got me thinking now!
EGT and boost in one unit.
-
Gents
Thank you all for your input. I will go and shake the piggy bank just now and see about getting something sorted.
GW8IZER you are correct in thinking I want a set up with a margin of safety rather than max power. Don't get me wrong, any increase will be welcome! After finding the pump has been disturbed, and having a turbo fail last year, I would like to measure what is going on with the present set up. It must be said it was a bearing failure rather than the vanes, but another new turbo is a cost I can do without.
It has always passed the MOT despite my perception of excessive smoke. I just know it should be better than it is.
-
GW8IZR I think that is an idea as it is just for setting up. Can you give me any suppliers etc please ?
Muddy, cheers for the recommendation
-
Can anyone recommend a type and supplier for an ETG? Looking to fit one before further investigation into my fuel pump set up. I do not have room to mount it in the panel below the radio as I have other things there so a stand alone unit is needed rather than a panel mount, unless of course I change the dash!
-
Well I had a look in the technical archive and made an adjustment to the diaphragm stop screw. I have taken it back in steps about one full term. The smoke seems to be less and while there is some visible it is certainly not as antisocial as it was before! I did a quick boy racer acceleration run and got about 16 seconds to 60 over two directions. Not bad for a 17 year old 110 with a roof rack. Now to find an ETG
-
Just had a look at the fuel pump, and the boost pin is free to move, however I noted that the cheese head screws were damaged, and the anti tamper plug missing.
When examining the taper of the central gizmo, there are two distinct wear marks, so it looks as if it has been turned clockwise by 90 degrees.
Mike
-
EGT gauge is on the "to do" list when I have some spare cash.
I am not happy to tweak the pump upwards until I can monitor the temps, especially given a sudden turbo failure last year, though that was bearings not blades.
Will look at a boost gauge to see what it is actually doing, and clean out the intercooler in the mean time.
-
Should have added that the air filter had been changed previously.
I just think there is more smoke than there should be.
My 200tdi Disco was clean burning in comparison.
-
Hi all,
After a couple of pointers, rather than he complete " how to adjust your pump" from the archive.
I have no idea if the pump was adjusted by the previous owners, so cannot be sure of the base line.
It is a 97 300tdi in a 110 station wagon. It looks as though it may have had an EGR at some point as there is a flat plate on the exhaust manifold. There is also an electric a plug on the Fip that is not connected, and there is no harness to it.
If I accelerate gently there is no smoke.
If I apply more than (say) 75 % throttle, there is black smoke. If the throttle is held steady, this smoke gradually diminishes as the vehicle speed / revs rise.
The vehicle has always felt fairly spritely, though other people say it is normal !
A new turbo was fitted last year, but the issue has been there since I bought the vehicle.
Can anyone suggest the first thing to adjust to reduce the smoke?
Fuel consumption with brownchurch rack is about 26mpg, and vehicle will pull well up to *ahem* 70 mph.
Cheers for any pointers.
Mike
-
On my RRC I had a receiver hitch incorporated in to a tank guard.
I had two plates for it.
One incorporated a drop plate for towing trailers, and the other had a four bolt flange to take a NATO hitch for a recovery point.
I just swapped the two as required.
-
Bushwhacker
Yes the rope is going under the drum
-
Many thanks for the advice.
Re spoiled the rope under tension for the first two layers and then did two criss cross layers followed by another two straight layers under tension. No sign of pulling through.
Nice constant tension courtesy of the x-defend pedal lock which applies the foot brake!
-
Bushwhacker
Cheers for that, it is certainly worth a try, but given with it spooled tightly at present and starting to rub, I don't think it is going to fit. Making an extension strop out of the off cut won't be the end of the world.
-
Cheers for that SteveG
Looks as though I will be taking it off and chopping 5m to make in to an extension piece then!
As it is, the last 4 turns start a new layer that rubs on the winch tray and bridge.
If I spool it loosely, there is no way it will all fit on the drum.
Mike
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Gents
I have just fitted a synthetic rope to my winch, and spooled on as per wire rope under tension.
The first time I used it (gardening!) the rope pulled down in to the layer below.
What is the preferred method to reduce the likelihood of this happening?
Mike
-
7
-
Pigster
Thanks for the reply.
The customer didn't want to pay £40 ish just to stay original, do I was looking for a used option.
I got the welder out this afternoon and fabricated a bracket based on my motor.
Cheers anyway,
Mike
-
-
Dga3240
Perhaps if you fill In your profile someone close might be able to assist?
Don't put your address, but a county might help!
-
Daan
On the 101, the noise started as soon as you came off the throttle. No braking required.
Could be quite pronounced when feathering the throttle, do I do not believe it was a rotation of the axle, although of course coming off the power will cause a reaction.
-
Ok this is the last post this morning, or I won't get anything done!
Have a look at this video as it explains far better than I did as to what is happening as the prop rotates.
-
A quick google led me to this page.
http://www.nealonline.net/101/101sh.htm
He fitted a prop with a double carden joint at each end to the front of his 101 to cure the rumble.
IIRC the double carden act as a cv joint and cancels out the variation in angular acceleration that you get with a single joint as the prop turns.
If the diff nose points up at the gear box, a single UJ is almost aligned giving minimal vibration as the change in rotational velocity is also minimised. The double carden would then take care of the other end.
At least that is how I understand it!
Landy bits get everywhere...
in International Forum
Posted
Lifeboat?