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Roverdrive

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Posts posted by Roverdrive

  1. Gents

    Thank you all for your input. I will go and shake the piggy bank just now and see about getting something sorted.

    GW8IZER you are correct in thinking I want a set up with a margin of safety rather than max power. Don't get me wrong, any increase will be welcome! After finding the pump has been disturbed, and having a turbo fail last year, I would like to measure what is going on with the present set up. It must be said it was a bearing failure rather than the vanes, but another new turbo is a cost I can do without.

    It has always passed the MOT despite my perception of excessive smoke. I just know it should be better than it is.

  2. Can anyone recommend a type and supplier for an ETG? Looking to fit one before further investigation into my fuel pump set up. I do not have room to mount it in the panel below the radio as I have other things there so a stand alone unit is needed rather than a panel mount, unless of course I change the dash!

  3. Well I had a look in the technical archive and made an adjustment to the diaphragm stop screw. I have taken it back in steps about one full term. The smoke seems to be less and while there is some visible it is certainly not as antisocial as it was before! I did a quick boy racer acceleration run and got about 16 seconds to 60 over two directions. Not bad for a 17 year old 110 with a roof rack. Now to find an ETG

  4. Just had a look at the fuel pump, and the boost pin is free to move, however I noted that the cheese head screws were damaged, and the anti tamper plug missing.

    When examining the taper of the central gizmo, there are two distinct wear marks, so it looks as if it has been turned clockwise by 90 degrees.

    Mike

  5. EGT gauge is on the "to do" list when I have some spare cash.

    I am not happy to tweak the pump upwards until I can monitor the temps, especially given a sudden turbo failure last year, though that was bearings not blades.

    Will look at a boost gauge to see what it is actually doing, and clean out the intercooler in the mean time.

  6. Hi all,

    After a couple of pointers, rather than he complete " how to adjust your pump" from the archive.

    I have no idea if the pump was adjusted by the previous owners, so cannot be sure of the base line.

    It is a 97 300tdi in a 110 station wagon. It looks as though it may have had an EGR at some point as there is a flat plate on the exhaust manifold. There is also an electric a plug on the Fip that is not connected, and there is no harness to it.

    If I accelerate gently there is no smoke.

    If I apply more than (say) 75 % throttle, there is black smoke. If the throttle is held steady, this smoke gradually diminishes as the vehicle speed / revs rise.

    The vehicle has always felt fairly spritely, though other people say it is normal !

    A new turbo was fitted last year, but the issue has been there since I bought the vehicle.

    Can anyone suggest the first thing to adjust to reduce the smoke?

    Fuel consumption with brownchurch rack is about 26mpg, and vehicle will pull well up to *ahem* 70 mph.

    Cheers for any pointers.

    Mike

  7. Many thanks for the advice.

    Re spoiled the rope under tension for the first two layers and then did two criss cross layers followed by another two straight layers under tension. No sign of pulling through.

    Nice constant tension courtesy of the x-defend pedal lock which applies the foot brake!

  8. Cheers for that SteveG

    Looks as though I will be taking it off and chopping 5m to make in to an extension piece then!

    As it is, the last 4 turns start a new layer that rubs on the winch tray and bridge.

    If I spool it loosely, there is no way it will all fit on the drum.

    Mike

  9. A quick google led me to this page.

    http://www.nealonline.net/101/101sh.htm

    He fitted a prop with a double carden joint at each end to the front of his 101 to cure the rumble.

    IIRC the double carden act as a cv joint and cancels out the variation in angular acceleration that you get with a single joint as the prop turns.

    If the diff nose points up at the gear box, a single UJ is almost aligned giving minimal vibration as the change in rotational velocity is also minimised. The double carden would then take care of the other end.

    At least that is how I understand it!

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