TheBeastie

The front wipers on TheBeastie have intermittent and slow. If I put switch to fast then it usually lifts to sort of vertical and then stops which isn't much help when it does a downpour or there is masses of spray - as this week coming down from Dalwhinnie. Does anyone know if this is a motor problem or is it like the park switch issue where you can simply replace a switch? To the best of my knowledge the wiper motor has probably never had any maintenance but seems to work ok on the normal/slow sweep mode and the intermittent mode. It does not park brilliantly but never been an issue really. Any thoughts or suggestions would be most appreciated.

LOL Must remember this one - I usually end up blaming my deteriorating eyesight :-)

Thanks guys Spire nut cracked it - I had no idea that is what they were called. AJ608041 from LR Series for future reference. Ordered 14 so may as well replace them all. Help very much appreciated Malcy

Sorry not more precise but on the top of the wings there is a vent cover on each side. The screws go through the plastic cover and into a sort of insert into the wing. I need to get more of the inserts since most of mine have "perished" but cannot find them in parts catalogue. Am planning to fit s/s screws so this rules out simply using bigger self tappers than originally intended. If anyone has a part number it would be much appreciated Thanks Malcy

Thanks. Have fitted strop as security. It is definitely the one on the left from westerns post so I wonder if the torsion bar could have "lost" its torsion since it is certainly pretty sloppy. I cannot see the big arm distorting. Will order up some new bits and see if that sorts it out Thanks and will report on progress.

When changing door I reused the original retainer kit at bottom LH corner of door. On the old door the top of the rod was caught in a turn down bit of metal (and felt quite solid as a result) on the door but the new door lacked this so the rod (and the retaining roller) seems a bit loose. Thought not a lot more until yesterday till opened door and it swung open with loud crack. The spare tyre had cracked the face of the o/s stop/tail light. This never happened with the old door. I will try to get wire guards to protect light (think I may get away without replacing) but wondered if there had been a design change. Cannot afford to keep replacing LED light units! Thanks for any help Malcy

How do you normally set up washers for the rear window? I presume put a separate washer pump into the engine compartment coming off the washer reservoir and then route plastic piping through to the bit you put above the rear door. Slightly concerned it will be very vulnerable to freezing solid in winter, although I suppose could insulate it. Is this correct way , or is there a better way? Also is there a combined washer/wiper Carling type switch you can get - I envisaged click half way and wiper works, push down fully and washer kicks in, release and it jumps back to wiper just on??? Thanks Malcy

Can anyone tell me what the supply requirement is for what I think is standard rear heated window? I am guessing around 10 amps given the in line fuse rating but would prefer to only have to wire it once I am assuming the relay is a standard one and that I can use one of the spare Carling switches on my Mud console. Also there seems to be a voltage sensitive switch and a diode wired into the circuit from looking at the diagram - are these LR main dealer supply items or am I likely to be able to source elsewhere (if so what sort of values am I looking for)? Finally, there are two terminal on the heater element, neither marked. Is there any convention as to which you connect to +ve and which to -ve? Once I know about the diode and voltage sensitive switch I will start ordering up the coloured wires! Thanks for any help. Malcy

Thanks Diff Mine is a 1991 Defender so I guess the older spec will be OK.

Not sure if this helps but I find that when my gears are a bit dicky filling up the main gearbox and especially the transfer box works wonders. I usually find they take five or six pumps from the relevant OilSafe and then work really smoothly. Much better than a dip stick!

Does anyone know if this offering would be OK for axles and transfer box on my 90. The price seems very attractive! [LINK]http://www.screwfix.com/prods/66754/Van-Car-Accessories/Car-Lubricants/Carlube-Hypoid-Gear-Oil-EP80w90-4-55Ltr[/LINK] If it is then I will get some since needing to top up soon. Thanks Malcy

Thanks guys. I am getting the idea. I will look and see what I can fashion with wire and superglue over the weekend. As you say, if I can only get the first couple of turns to take then I can be a bit more physical with it to get it tightened. I feel cheered. Now switch to Blue Peter mode :-)

Sorry title not better but I wondered if there is any recognised tool for getting nuts onto bolts in really awkward places. I am trying to get the nut onto the middle bolt of the bottom bracket on my spare wheel carrier. It is at a point where you cannot get at it head on because of the back wall of the rear crossmember and cannot really get into it from the side because of the main chassis. The added "bonus" is if you drop anything you have only a modest chance of ever seeing it again as it drops into the main body of the crossmember. I have tried fingers, long nosed pliers, universal joint on socket set. There simply does not seem room to do anything. I have also tried cursing and screaming at it but it will not play! The worst thing is I know I have done it once before when I put it on the first time so perhaps I need to chill, have aa cup of tea and then have another go. If anyone has any bright ideas it would be wonderful!!

Thanks guys. I have given the whole inside of the door two good coats of Hammerite but the inside of the perimeter channel worries me from a corrosion point of view (you should see the old door!) So I think I will apply some judicious 10mm holes and try and spray it full of waxoyl since little merit in protecting the visible metal and ignoring what you cannot see since I believe the law of sod will dictate that moisture will be irresistably attracted to the area!

Thanks western Looks like older type but not great believer in interior trim so will fashion some 3mm ply to suit but now get the idea. Will have a look for that grommet. I thought that given the amp draw of the heater it would be best to give it a decent earth since I have little faith in The Beastie's earth connectivity from the back of the truck Was planning to put an earthed busbar at each of the four corners with decent earth bolted onto chassis and then run all my local earths to the busbar.

Next Q. I have got waxoyl pressure can and the 'high pressure' pump with extension nozzle. There are no entry points I can see within the perimeter channel to allow access so do I drill some, say 10mm, holes around the channel at appropriate points to allow access - and then pump like heck, putting a grommet in when finished? Thanks for any answers. Best wishes Malcy

The rear door project progresses with my usual snail's pace. This question is about wiring in the heated glass and also the prospective rear windscreen wiper. There appears to be no obvious hidden route to take wires in from the hole on the inside of the door frame (level with just below the level of the glass) into the body of the door. I expected a matching hole so I could run the wires (grommeted and wrapped in flexible conduit) from the body of the LR into the door, leaving slack for the door to open, and then up through the door (hidden by a plywood 'card') across to the middle for the wiper and the far side for the glass. They are going to need to be fairly hefty (will prob use 30 amp) wires given the loading and somehow just looping them across the back of the door seems a bit too casual. Is it a case of drill your own holes or is there a more recognised way of running these wires. Thanks for any pointers or photos. Malcy

Got new door - cheapie I am afraid - but it looks OK and came with new glass installed. I have put two coats of black Hammerite on the inside of the door but would like to protect the inside of the trunking - presumably with Waxoyl, but have no idea how you are meant to do this since the only sort of access I can see is the holes drilled through for the hinge bolts to go through. Presumably you need some sort of hose and a pressure system to force it in but pointers would be most useful. Also on the new door, below where the lock fits, there is a post with two holes that looks suspiciously like it should have something bolted onto it that then fits into a similar positioned set of angled brackets below the door post striker. The whole jutting out bit is missing off my existing door so have no clues. Looking at the parts manual it might be part 332147 (dovetail female) - would this make sense? Can post a picture if it would help anyone. Finally, I think I need to replace the whole lock assembly. I put a new barrel into the mechanism in March and already it is shot so I think it may well be not so much a shoddy barrel as worn out mechanism. If so, which should I try and order since there seem to be changes around my VIN (HA) but not sure how new door may affect this. Again can post a photo if it helps. Thanks for patience reading my long drawn out prose! Malcy

I have two fairly standard batteries squeezed into the box under the passenger seat. Feed and supplementary fuse box from 2nd battery on rear bulkhead. Works for me. If radio transceiver remember to fuse both +ve and -ve supplies.

To conclude the thread can now report that the job is done. We got The Beastie up on a big lift and were then able to get a proper leverage on the 30mm socket which shifted it nicely. Proper bolts now in place and it all cleaned up nicely as a bonus. The new prop shaft seems to be giving a more positive feel in the drive train which must be a good thing! Next step is to put an X-Brake on the back but that prop shaft looks in better nick than the front one was. Anyway thanks a million to all who offered help and support

Completely unable to move it. Not enough room underneath for monster lever that would be needed and have no imact tools. I think I will have to try and reuse the old nuts to get mobile and then see if I can get a garage or someone at least with a high lift platform so that can get under and get some proper leverage onto it. Once it is off then I can put in the proper bolts and new nuts. My thinking is that as long as I change the bolts and nuts as a priority then I ought to be OK???

Thanks Mike I had thought of putting the diff lock on since if that works for securing the flange to undo the little bolts I thought it would also work for trying to undo the big monster.

Thanks. At least I will not need to put a snorkel on then Having just re-read the thread can I confirm that where the prop joins with the front diff that it is OK for the nuts to be on the diff side of the flange, as they were on mine, or do I need to get that flange off too really so that the heads are between the flange and the diff. I have tried looking at the parts manual and it is not clear on the pictures. Why does life seem to get so complex, or is it just getting too late at night!

Got a 30mm socket onto it but it feels like Godzilla tightened it on a bad day! Will have to try and get more leverage on tomorrow. Am I likely to end up with EP90 all over me when it eventually shifts?

Thanks western So do I just undo that big central nut and the flange comes off or are there other bits to come off too? It looks like it might be a 27mm or 30mm (which would be good since I now have sockets that size )