TheBeastie

Yes, 9/16 would make sense since that equates to about 14.3mm according to the link chart. So better try Halfords since I am 99% sure I have no imperial spanners but better just do a quick rummage. Pain in that I will need two of them and pretty sure I will never use them again!

OK. Thanks guys. Now got propshaft locked using the diff lock so that is OK. Can get the front off using DIFFLOCK propshaft socket tool and then using a 14mm open ended spanner which is close enough to hold the nut to undo the bolt, but is clearly not quite the right size. I have tried, however, to get the back bolts slackened and the angle of the propshaft and UJ prevents me from getting the propshaft socket tool onto the nut. Do I need to use a pair of spanners to get these ones slackened? If so what is correct size - I seem to recall it is some imperial piece of nonsense. Have tightened front bolts up again whilst I am waiting. If I need imperial spanners it may have to wait for the internet to supply them!

Well it is rare for me to stop and really look before I dive into a job but this time I did - and have a couple of questions. First of all how do I safely lock the propshaft to remove the propshaft bolts? I have jacked up one wheel to get better access, have put it on an axle stand and have chocked the rear wheels both sides front and back. If I put it in gear am I not in risk moving the vehicle? (sorry if this is daft but do not fancy it coming down on me when I am under it!) Second, removing the connection to the front diff looks OK since the bolts go through front ways so replacing with new bolts will be OK; but where it connects to the gear box the bolts will have to be put in from the back according to how it is currently on. Does this entail removing the flange or do the old bolts wriggle out, and the new ones wriggle in OK? As I say sorry if they are simple questions. I am just aware once it is off I have to be able to get it back on again safely! Thanks for any pointers Best wishes Malcy

Thanks Ralph. I will get some and hopefully it will arrive at same time as glass. Anything better than picking it all off (and then getting the bots of glass out of your fingers )

Have ordered new glass for back door and just spent two hours getting all the silicone and glass splinters off the door frame before giving it a going over with Kurust and paint before installing the new glass. Can anyone suggest a better way of fixing the glass that doesn't stick as soundly as silicone?? Also anything I can do to make the back door close more easily? I have fitted one of the wheel carrier things to take the weight off the door but it still seems to need quite a thud to close it. Just want to try and avoid having to replace the glass too often. Any thoughts or ideas would be really appreciated Thanks Malcy

Thanks Nic Does anyone know part numbers? I found MTC3469 but local LR dealer says this is 5mm glass and I should have 4mm. So then found MWC4719 which says 4mm military. The glass I had was clear (no tint) and not heated - since can hardly ever see anything out of it anyway LR dealer suggested a Bearmach part that is 4mm at £30 plus VAT which I could live with but looking with a bit of envy at the 5mm ones which seem to be about £20 all in. The original LR piece is over £130 so looking for an alternative but would prefer to get the right bit!

Just a hurrumph really. Closed (well you have to close it quite forcably) the rear door and the glass shattered. I had reseated it all about 18 months ago and no problems at all. Now spent half an hour removing the glass, sweeping the road, removing the alu holding in bits and then trying to wrap the hole up (not very successfully) with a tarp. Have emptied the back and parked it with back door up tight to the garage door. Situation probably exacerbated by crappy door locks fitted earlier (see other thread) necessitating several door closures before it gets locked. Guess I am now looking for glass as well as new door locks! Oh woe is me

Thanks for responses I have ratchet crimp thingy but have also used solder on uninsulated terminals for radio work. I just wondered if any difference. I have found a lot of variability in the quality of the connectors - bought one batch of the Scr***ix web site - very cheap but never again! Have to say I think I preferred the aesthetics of the soldered connector with soft pvc cover

Not a hijack but an associated query. Is the suggestion that using Lucar terminals (from what I can see VWP uninsulated terminals) preferable to crimp terminals? If so is this because you can pop a dob of solder where the wire sits in the connector and then crimp down and pull insulator over? If not, then why/how? Interested since about to start on new wiring project for The Beastie.

No worries - useful information but I do rather want to stay mechanical Good luck with the CL

Are you sure it is consuming it and not leaving it all over the place to mark territory? BTW welcome to the forum - you will find it help beyond belief, or at least I have done! Malcy

Are there any better quality mechanical solutions to door locks? My 90 comes from an era before central locking and I would rather like (within reason) to keep it that way!

Slightly off topic but I got really annoyed with my cubby box since the top was not horizontal and so lay back the way following the angle of the seat box. Does that happen with you cubby boxes; or do you put a wedge insert to level it off; or do they come pre-shaped to be level? I do miss mine so am on the lookout for a new one provided it will not slide my mug of coffee back towards the bulkhead!

For my Christmas present I got a set of three suited (or is it sweeted) door lock barrels. They were really rather cheap but seemed reputable LR stuff. I had researched and all seemed about the same price. Put one in back (which was worst) and it was brilliant for about five months but is now pretty useless again. There seems little point in going to all the trouble with the front doors using the same barrels. Can anyone recommend a better solution - either a specific make that is not made of cheap metal/chewing gum amalgam or other solutions. I am not security paranoid but simply trying to be sensible. Thanks and best wishes Malcy

OK I get, and fully understand, the point that you get what you pay for. Draper seem to do two ranges of two ton jacks - one around £50 and the other around £375. The more expensive one seems like overkill but the other one is about the same as I paid for the original one, so would I be a mug to get another at that sort of price?

I got a 3 ton Machinemart trolley jack about 18 months ago and despite relatively little use it has packed it - the clip connecting the lever to the pump failed. Fortunately no damage done as I had a bottle jack to lift The Beastie off the axle stand - but I guess I was lucky. Apparently it is now out of the 12 month warranty. The will do an assessment and quote for a repair but I think I would probably be better just getting another one - but not the same as last time. What are best recommendations for trolley jack for a 90? I am not a garage so it is probably used one weekend a month or so. Any suggestions would be most welcome. Thanks Malcy

Ordered the Hardy Splicer prop shaft. They also have prop shaft nut and bolt at 20p each so ordered 10 to have some spares. Will wait and see how I get on!

Thanks guys. I was reckoning on getting with UJs on both ends and as far as I can see FRC8390 does have this. The pictures are not always that clear! The standard one from Paddocks is £55 ex VAT and the one with Hardy Spicer UJs (FRC8390G) is £82.50 ex VAT. I seem to recall someone saying Hardy Spicer UJs were worth the extra. Do you agree? Point taken also about getting new nuts and bolts. Best wishes Malcy

Have come to conclusion front prop shaft needs replaced - UJs are going (work fine when pumped full of grease but start getting noisy later) and also the sliding bit near gearbox is burst. The Beastie is a 1991 200Tdi 90 Looking at Paddocks the closest I can find is FRC8390 (will double check VIN when at home) but not sure if worth paying more and getting the Hardy Spicer UJs - it is another £27.50. Any views? Also is the kit likely to come with new bolts etc? If not I guess better to get a new set of them too. Also are there any other bits I am likely to need, such as gaskets etc. Thanks for any input Malcy

Thanks. That was huge help. Now know I have the right bolt but also that I have the wrong sender. Mine is about 10.2mm across the thread peaks and about 9.5mm across the troughs. I suspect I have left it too late to try and get a replacement but I will try since I have the VDO gauge in place and just need to connect it up Meanwhile I will not try further to get the bolt out - which give the skin on my knuckles a chance to heal anyway As always, really appreciate your taking the time and trouble. Malcy

The sender I got is a vdo one from ETB Instruments I think - it is definitely a 12mm spanner for the "bolt" part

Hi western - I had been using your pictures (I downloaded them into my TheBeastie folder last time) and that is what helped me locate where I think I need to undo the bolt and insert my temperature sensor. My cause to seek clarification came from (a) the 22mm bolt is bl**dy hard to get out and (B) if 22mm bolt comes out and 12mm bolt goes in isnt't there going to be an unholy gap involved. If it is OK to just keep persevering then fair enough but the two concerns made me pause and check!

I found this picture in workshop manual. The nut I am referring to is the big one just below the number 4 (which referrs to something else not on this image). A 22mm spanner fits it but you cannot get a full fit onto the nut because of obstructions Just in case it helps anyone shed some light for me.

Hi Gav My understanding, based on Amateur Radio rather than CB - but they are basically the same thing, is that in theory you can use a fist mike whilst driving but that if anything happened whilst you were on the air then you would almost certainly be done for driving with lack of care or whatever it is called. This is a getout to allow police, ambulance etc to use two way radio rather than mobile phone and in vehicle two way radio slips in on the back of it. The long and the short of it seems to be best not to use whilst driving on legal roads unless you can do it genuinely hands free - headset with some PTT work around, or perhaps a bluetooth set. Hope this helps and I am sure someone else will come along to explain anything I have missed. Malcy

I am finally getting back to a job I started (but didn't finish) in February and am a little bit lost. I got adapter and banjo for what I think is the oil pressure sender and it was done in February. I am now looking at putting the oil temperature sender into the oil filter assembly. I think I have identified the port which seems to be guarded with an almost impossible to reach but does just take a 22mm spanner but then seems like it is almost welded in - one skinned knuckle so far and no shift. I am concerned a bit since the nut part on the sender is only 12mm spanner fit so am nervous that I may not have got the right bit to try and undo, or if I have the right bit then the hole is going to be much bigger than my sender (VDO). Anyone done this before and can perhaps shed some light on the matter? Thanks Malcy