Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Design and development are making them again. I found some new old stock originals at PA Blanchard.
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You could. I did try this. You would also need to space the wheel bearings out from the hub by about 5mm as the step that the bearings butt up to is also about 5mm inboard. This affects your brakes - for me it meant my disk brake conversion wouldn’t bolt up as the disks were now about 5mm further inboard.
I gave up with them at this point and just ordered stage 1 v8 ones, which are a bolt on fit.
jon
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We had a mooch for an hour with the detector yesterday. Found a tent peg and some ww2 ack-ack.
jon
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Here you go. Stage 1 v8 stub axle compared to 110 one. You will see the difference.
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I’ve been through all of this. You can’t use 110 stub axles as you have discovered as they misalign the cv to the centre of the king pin. They are about 5mm out IIRC. You have to use the correct stage 1 v8 ones they are different.
I have a photo somewhere that shows the difference I will see if I can find.
I tried turned down 110 stubs first and it took me ages to work out what wasn’t right…..
jon
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I’d rather have a kit that uses standard landrover wearing parts. I understand they heystee kit does this using landrover discs and calipers.
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9v solid state regulator is what I have done in mine many years ago now. Brings the needs down nicely.
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I run tubes in the landrover tyres so when you get a puncture they go down fast. I have used the spare and wouldn’t ever not carry one.
tubeless tyres tend to mostly get slow punctures so it’s much less of an issue. My daily driver Audi has never had a spare and there is no space for one even (not even a space saver)
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Yep. What he said. Heat them up to expand and you can tap them off.
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Yes it’s the part you are pointing to. Those bearings need changing they’re completely knackered.
90217398 is the retaining sleeve. Yours also look very worn so I would change them too.
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Yes I have a Mikuni MY30 in mine. Works very well and belts out heat!
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About the only practical use I've found is when you go round your mates houses and say “Alexa, wake me up at 3am with monster sounds” when they are out of earshot 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
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I put ally wire into my mig and just let in new sections of metal where I needed it. Worked very well.
see the pics I added to your other thread.
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On 10/27/2020 at 6:42 AM, monkie said:
The hole is there to let water out, welding it up will obviously permanently prevent any water build up from escaping.
Not half as much water as it lets in when wading! Any water quickly evaporates in the warm airflow as the engine runs anyway.....
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I just welded a plate over mine
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Weld a nut onto the stub that is sticking out. The heat will help unstick the bolt, and you’ll be able to unwind it with a spanner.
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My TDi starts first flick of the key. Let’s just say that Nigel’s V8 “takes a bit of cranking” 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Probably something to do with the petrol being years old, and the plugs all fouled cos it only ever moves in and out of the garage......🤔
1 hour ago, TSD said:CCA is a usefull way to compare batteries, but doesn't have much meaning in terms of 'real' amps unless your engine takes exactly 30 seconds to start.
Can't put my hand on the 'on engine' measurements I have right now, is this 'non-rolling road' curve of any interest ?
This is a typical 2.2kW tdi starter motor - data supplied by the motor rewinder. Maximum stalled current was 730A (but the wiring and battery should be sized to limit the current below this).
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Two batteries wired in parallel will give you double the CCA of a single one. Most big trucks have at least four batteries wired in series parallel to increase the ampage. Optimas are pretty carp really considering what they cost.
Wire a pair of 072s in parallel and you’ll be better off. Mine are just Halfords ones and nothing special - they don’t need to be. Just pick up a reasonable quality pair from your local factors. As I say the key is wiring them in parallel. You do not want split charge or anything like that - just permanently hard wire together.
ive run this set up for many years with electric winches etc, and don’t forget Diesel engines are significantly higher compression than your v8 is!
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P38 steering box bolts are m16x1.5 and m14x1.5
the oil cooler in a tdi radiator is threaded 3/8” BSP and there is then an adaptor that screws into that which the metal cooler pipe fits into.
no idea on the others - measure them and look them up in a Zeus book
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Wisbech Engineering can do it. Top quality engineers they have a fantastic reputation 👍🏻
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Just noted that the event previously postponed until August is now cancelled.
October one appears to still be on - at the moment.....
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1 hour ago, Bigj66 said:
Am I the only one who thinks £60 odd quid for that is a tad expensive? 😳
There is a seller on eBay does turned plastic ones for about a tenner which work very well. I have one of them 👍🏻
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Don’t do it. Use the defender column. If you find the correct one the splines are the same as series so your existing steering wheel will fit - it just puts the wheel a couple of inches closer to the driver. All the rest of the dash will still fit no problems
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That’s not a five speed gearbox that’s a standard series 4 speed.
compared to a defender Transfer box a series one will always be noisy. It was one of the reasons I too ther series transfer box out of mine and fitted an LT230
109 SIII - 200di conversion - front propshaft hits sump pickup pipe
in Series Forum
Posted
I moved the pipe on mine as someone else has done and welded up the original hole. I’ve never run gaiters on propshafts as they tend to just hold the mud and water in in my experience. I prefer just to grease uk regularly.
jon