Jon White
-
Posts
2,532 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Jon White
-
-
All made by the same company
-
Ah yes sorry - I was slightly wrong. I knew the late ones were different but I incorrectly assumed they were the same bearings.
im aware that the late ones and the coiled ones all use the same seal, and I’ve used the proper tool as a friend has one.
I always found the leather seals much better on early hubs rather then the modern lipped seals.
-
Should be in front of the axle. Position it so that the drop arm ends up in the same line as the original would have been.
here is mine.
-
1
-
-
I was only talking Steering box. You could probably make the disco column work if you wanted to, just most people use a defender one as it bolts straight on.
-
Early s2 hubs can easily be identified by the smaller BSF wheel studs. Later ones use the same metric wheel studs as series3 (27mm socket for the wheel nuts), and are to all intents the same as series3 ones. Late series 3 changed slightly as they used the same inner and outer bearing (earlier ones the outer bearing is smaller), but the inner bearing and the seal are both identical.
-
-
it’s the same series manual you have got just further on in it. Pages 60-10 and 60-11.
-
point 16 gives the measurement.
-
Either can be made to work, but the P38 setup is nicer and requires less hacking of the chassis.
-
Cough, RTFM it’s written in there! 🤣
-
You aren’t installing the hub seals correctly. They should not be installed flush, they should be 4.8-5.3mm recessed into the housing.
-
1
-
-
Yes I have that kit with that switch. The two sides operate independently. Its more than just a switch however as there are bicolour leds in there, plus illumination. Each switch is a momentary, so multiple pushes cycle through off/high/low
-
1
-
-
Not an electric one, no, but the cheapo air Schutz guns do an adequate job. IMHO they work better when the air pressure is regulated down however.
-
1
-
-
I’d guess it would just about sit behind a series front end, looking at where the mounting holes on the chassis for the original front panel are
-
1
-
-
I run a defender front end
-
Here’s where mine ended up.
-
Just noticed the April one has been postponed until 16th August - just in case anyone was making plans.
-
On 1/16/2020 at 4:58 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
You just need smarter Series gauges...
They look nifty John. Easy to do?
-
On 9/26/2019 at 4:56 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
Doing nothing is also an option, it's not critical. I believe @Jon White runs full-time 4x4 on Series axles with no problem.
Yes. Ran them for more than ten years. No issues other than slight click back through the steering on full lock, which I can easily live with.
i have now converted to CVs and custom HD shafts, but only for reasons of shaft strength. No series shafts stand up to 35” tyres and diff lockers.
-
Only five hammers? 😱
-
I have P38 steering on my series Nigel 😉
-
Scallop the crossmember for clearance like the military ones. That’s the usual way to do it.
-
1
-
-
Zeus seal kit. Works well as it puts the seal against a different part of the shaft so works around the worn shaft. I had one in mine for years before I did the P38 conversion.
-
1
-
-
On 5/30/2019 at 4:31 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
Might help your cause if you say "series box" in the title as not everyone knows them as LT76's.
Agree completely! I actually thought he’d made a typo and wanted an LT77. Almost nobody calls them an LT76 and most people will have no clue what you’re asking for. Ask for a series 3 gearbox and you’ll be on to a winner. They are **** though, they break way too easily. I gave up with them years ago - how about just going for an upgrade?
Stage one V8 front half shafts
in Series Forum
Posted
They have them made by GB engineering