Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Bear in mind that a defender column is longer than a series column, so it puts the steering wheel several inches closer to the driver when fitting.
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The only difference is the length of the thread where it bolts through the steering arm. The series ones are shorter. You can use a defender tre on a series, but series ones on a defender are a bit short and you can barely get the thread through the nyloc. Defender steering arms are thicker than series.
the taper is the same, and the thread that goes into the rods is the same.
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I did the same with my m8000 recently and was shocked at how corroded it was also.
i galvafroided mine, but I have subsequently picked up a replacement drum at Newbury for £5 so will fit that at some point.
jon
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Stub axle bolts are 3/8” BSF. Don’t believe they were ever metric, but it’s entirely possible that a pattern part supplier has made stubs with 10mm holes because these days metric is the standard....
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As all the above have said. Classic symptoms of a poor or missing earth.
jon
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I found a 10v solid state one was too high a voltage - I believe the old mechanical one is a “nominal” 10v which in reality never really is 10v. I swapped mine to a 9v and it’s much better now.
Jon
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Speedy cables repair gauges
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Pull the diff out, sandblasting will ruin it.
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The thread size is 1/8 bsp. Just buy standard 6mm push in fittings they are pennies off of eBay either in straight or 90 degree elbow
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So......what’s wrong with the standard Land Rover bottle jack that has a top that looks like that anyway?
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404 not found.
Link doesn’t work!
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Gwynn Lewis keeps sumo bars the correct length for a series with a P38 box conversion on the shelf. I bought one recently when I did my conversion. They aren’t on the website but if you ring him up they are in stock.
Jon
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A friend of mine also owns one, although it’s been in bits for at least ten years now.....
the link above provides good info. Value wise it’s down to what components are fitted, how well it is built and ultimately what it’s worth to you!
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Yes the gear-lever more or less comes out in the same spot
yes the hi lo levers will need sorting out
having run this set up in the past I wouldn’t bother again. Fit the lt230 aswell and forget the series transfer box. The lt230 is vastly superior.
you don’t need any of those stupid part time 4wd kits either. The series axle is fine in full time 4wd. I’ve run mine like that for more than ten years now
jon
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Just use a 7810 regulator. Cost pennies and will use the screw the old unit used to mount and use the speedo as a heat sink. I’ve had one for years. Just solder leads on and away you go.
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22 hours ago, Smego said:
Shut down completely till 23rd July. what sort of company does that these days?
You’ll probably find it’s a one man band, not a large company - most specialist suppliers are these days. Hence they shut down when the go on holiday.
also some shut down to ensure that their annual turn over stays below the VAT threshold so that they don’t have to go VAT registered.
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I have the xcess 4x4 washer kit on my truck. Works very well....
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I have a sealey bench mounted one I bought at Newbury autojumble years ago for £40. It does all I want.
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I recognise that, in fact I’m almost certain that I made it! Where did you get it from?
its definately not x-eng. at the time we made these x-eng didn’t make a kit for a series hence we made our own.....
pads and Caliper are rover 800 rear.
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You’ll find that the series 3 servo will work to a degree, but I found it didn’t offer enough servo assistance, so updated to an early 110 unit which is much improved. The series 3 and defender master cylinder is interchangeable the only difference is the brake bias. The series has a 50:50 split where the defender on puts more bias up front. I’m still running the series master.
i did indeed post how to bolt on rears using landrover parts many moons ago.
im using, early 90 drum braked rear stubs, with Range Rover disks hubs and Calipers. I used the Caliper brackets from a disk braked Salisbury rear from a 110 which bolt on after thinning them down by a couple of mm to get the disks correctly aligned (can’t remember the measurement sorry, but it’s easy enough to fly cut a bit off of them on a milling machine). Use 24spline shafts, early “thick” defender drive flanges and it all bolts up.
there is little difference in braking performance compared to well adjusted and maintained drums, however for me it’s the need for minimal maintenance that sold me. We have very sandy soil in my area, and I got fed up of the need to pump the brakes three times before they worked after a play day, when I had drums.
hth
jon
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That’s a LHD arm fitted on the wrong side of the vehicle. That arm should be on the other side of the axle.
Either that or it’s a series 2 arm incorrectly fitted Into the bottom of the swivel housing, where it should be fitted from the top. Are the tapers for the track rod ends going the correct way?
early series 2 stuff was the opposite way around to the later stuff.
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Fair enough. Can’t help you then as I’m on 16s
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285/75/16 on mine if it helps. They measure up about 33x11.5x16
second pic is a good comparison between mine and my mates which is on 265/75/16s
V8 into series 3
in Series Forum
Posted
I don’t think anyone has made the kits for years. As fridge says they turn up used from time to time.