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Posts posted by Jon White
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Hahahahahaha you've not looked in Tonk's garage lately then! He's done 2 in two months!
We eventually found the problem was cuase he had too much steering lock casuing the u/j's to bind and hence under power to shear. The lock stop bolts are there for a reason........
Other than him I've never heard of one breaking - the inner shafts will tist at the diff end before anything else breaks - I've seen a few twisted front shafts........
Another reason why series are better than 90's..........not to mention having considerably more suspension movement than a 90 eh Nige?
Jon
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I appreciate you shouldn't run a ballast resitor type coil without a resistor and vice versa.
Points and condensor are fine having been recently replaced. There is no problem as such. It starts and runs fine, it just hates water.
I was just wondering if I was overloadig the coil or somehting by effectively making it spark twice as fast as it would on a 4 pot thats all.
Jon
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Nope - using the series 3 wiring loom, series 3 coil with no ballast resistor.
So is the lack of ballast resistor the only difference then??
Jon
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Anyone know if theres any difference between a 4cyl ignition coil and a v8 ignition coil??
I only ask casue I'm try to sort out why my V8 is sooooo cr@p in water. Witht he v8 in it my series is still running on the origional 4cyl coil that was on the vehicle when I bouht it!
It runs alright on the road, just hates water - just wondered if this could possibly have anything to do with it!
A quick hunt of the parts book shows different part no's for both but anyone know if theres actaully any difference?
Thanks
Jon
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I know the feeling - removed about 1.5 wiring looms worth of wiring from my truck when I got it that just wasnt doing anything! God only knows what it was supposed to have done........
Still keep finding odd dodgy bits of wiring even now! (And no they're not all bits of dodgy wiring that have been done by me!)
Jon
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Er.......i think you're getting confused between security settings and encryption.
Two different things! If you want to stop other people being able to use the AP you need to set the MAC level security and only allow the Mac addresses that you want to give access to.
To find out what the MAC address is of you PC go the command prompt (or click start, run and then type cmd) and type ipconfig /all the "physical address" is the mac address.
The encryption is different again and simply means that any packets passed via the WAP will be encypted so anyone "evesdropping" cannot gain any useful information from them. Frankly unless you're dealign with sensative information etc i wouldnt bother with it as its an unneccesary overhead.
Make any more sense???
I stick with wired networks if i can - easier to troubleshoot, although we do have secure wireless LAN's here that we've been playing with lately.
HTH
Jon
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Et or JT's???
JT seem to last pretty well on the road..........ET's just wear silly quick!
Jon
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Some switches will autodetect, but most hubs will not as they're usually unmanaged.
We tend to make up x overs in a different colour to avoid confusion.
Jon
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Nope - you can run gigabit on cat 5 no problem. There is no difference in cabling between a 10 and 100 meg lead.
To tell the difference the colour codes will be different each end. If its straight thorugh both end s will be the same. Look throught the connector with the trigger facing the floor and the colours from left to right should be:-
Orange/white
orange
green/white
blue
blue/white
green
brown/white
brown
A straight through will be the same both ends.
An x over will be the above one end and the other end will be
green/white
green
orange/white
blue
blue/white
orange
brown/white
brown
Basically on an x over the oranges and the greens are swapped over on one end.
Easiest to buy a drum of cable, the ends and crimp tool and make your own up - thats what we do here!!!
HTH
Jon
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:-).........yep - mine lives in the house too! Although she gets locked in her cage when we're not in cause she likes chewing things!!
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Er.........they do have a branch in somerset...........
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Ok so its a funny looking cat........
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Yeah - I'd go with that - I'd use a small pneumatic cyclinder straight off of the engagement lever on the LT230. The just fabricate some sort of bracket to carry it. He presto run it off compressed air in a similar way to Nige and Paul Whiteman have on the freespools on their winches.
Parts are cheap and readily available from any Pneumatic suppliers.
Nige is your man for LT95 knowledge - he's taken enough of them apart!
Jon
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Mark, I had this problem too. On mine it was the cb. It was always turned off but must be using some power as one evening I noticed the red power button had a very dull glow despite being off. I disconnected the power wires from the back and hey presto ! no more flat batteries since. Result
And I'll second that about the X-Charge from Si
HTH
Mo
1/3 to 1/2 and amp discharge is too high! You need to sort out whats causeing the drain and fix it.
A flashing led should draw about 20 mA and a CB when turned off should draw bugger all.........
You've got a problem!
Jon
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well done Jon! (its really only 20 years, but if i can get everyone to wish him a happy 40th when hes only 39..... !!!!!!!!!)
Hahahhahahahaahhaaha good effort!!!!
So whats it saga subscription for christmas this year???
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?????? er..........how???? Silvers 25 isnt it?
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Tony,
I'm so glad I wasnt the only one thinking that!!!
Jon
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Isnt the railco bush blind? I dont remember there being a hole in the bottom of one.....
Ages since I've had one apart........
Jon
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Havn't you got some suspension to sort out Barker???
Tonk and i still reckon our leafers have more travel than your 90!
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One ickle mistake...............
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Dunno - must be the time of the month!! I am a bit grumpy this morning..........just in a bitchy mood thats all really!
Jon
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Ooooooooooooo Forget your AntiGrump pill this morning
Nope, fukll membership only, its been looked into and its all down to the insurance, same for the non driving winch bitches, need to be socail members to placate the insurers,
Bear in mind I hear all a well known and well respected organiser of winch events (not saying who) have been placed on hold - insurance costs and compnaies ....you guessed it
They (H&B) will accodate Non ARC etc, and Non LRs etc for the event, but the insurance is a non negotaible as they say
Nige
Nope - I just think the club is not worth joining for one event.
As I say - i know they'll accomodate anyone for this one event, but they do bugger all to accomodate anyone else for the rest of the year!
I know insurance is required, and i have no problem paying an entry fee that includes prices for insurance. What i dont want to do is pay a fortune to join a club that i dont want to be a member of! Thats why I suggested a short term membership.
Stuff it then - I'll just do the AWDC ones - at least they organise more than one event a year!
Jon
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ive got longer shackles with the old spring and shocks hopefull getting some rm paras and pro comp shocks
So in other words with the old saggy springs and the 1" lift you might just about be back up to standard ride height if your springs arent too knackered.
Spend your money on a set of parabolics. Think about some bigger tyres 31/10.50 are only about as tall as a standard 7.50x16. Think about something more around the 33 - 34" tall and now we're talking.
Forget the bumper - I've only ever bent mine the once thankyou chaps - easily straightened with Nige's sledge hammer! At least i know if i hit something the bumper will bend which is cheap and easy to replace - Tonk just bends the chassis when he hits something!
So what have you done to correct the castor angle on the front, and also sort the front prop out?
Jon
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Nope,
It will be members only, no chance of any exceptions, as it needs the insurance.
Site location and date TBA
Nige
Sigh........ok then - how about a "single event membership" at a reduced rate??
Dont want the magazine casue its pants anyway (some of you'll get the pun!) and they dont do anything else except ARC spec RTV's these days so being nowhere near ARC spec they dont offer anything else to me!
Jon
broken CV joints but what about broken UJ?
in International Forum
Posted
CTM's????
Translation please!