Team Idris
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Posts posted by Team Idris
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I would put some oil in the lines and stuff the pressure into the return at the very least. Ideally I would poke the old pressure pipe into the reservoir filler. Then you can do what you like as far as running and not worry. If you have an engine crane it makes a handy support to tie all the reservoirs and expansion tanks to.
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That just looks wrong at the front
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I'm not sure I could keep up with a bigger one? The idea was to spill less fuel and that can was soon gone
The other "bit of kit" I have is the classic volume-bucket for gear oil. I very rarely use it, but when I do it is just about perfect
Thanks Shackleton, I'm getting to like making Vblogs
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Yes, 2 1/4 for me too. You could tune the nuts off it for a start.
Also, a crank shaft strong enough for a diesel in a petrol is always a good start point for a good engine.
3.9 cross bolted V8. Had some serious problems for sure, but with ARP studs and dry sump it's suddenly a great engine. Mega Squirt it and it's a baby LS.
Td5 ? Same as the 3.9 V8 in that it is a cracking design let down by noncence unnecessary failure of key parts.
The truth of it is that great engines have to have reliability and longevity. Will the last 2 1/4 still be running long after the last Td5?
It's not a ridiculous suggestion
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I've gained a lot more by fitting a ski underneath in 2" by 4" box section. You'll always bottom out on something, so it's better if you can slip over stuff. It's a trick I got from a Vitara, as they can slide over a lot of stuff if they have momentum and a bit of traction.
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I saw on the American videos a Syphon that looked way better than those aweful green or red plastic bulb pumps we have in the UK. I saw one in 'Midwest Motor Factors' and decided to grab it. It's pretty flipping good to be honest. There isn't really anything to go wrong. First time I tried it is in this vid;
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I thought about bending the radius arms inward to go to the gearbox cross member, but I've never felt happy about moving the links away from the Line of force. At the moment hitting a wheel hard has a good line of push to the chassis. For this reason I like four link more.
I feel the cheap/easy method is to cut the ends off the radius arms so they are single bush (but I had considered just removing two bushes) and having a third top link wherever I could fit one in. And at a push I would go from the axel top to the front cross member.
Jeep style 4 link does look to do the buisness and its all in the wheel arch. I was impressed by it
even though it all looked a bit short on the top links. -
There is a dished water pump pulley that pushes it back over the water pump nose. But to be honest there is a huge amount of different bits that went on the RV8. It's one of the reasons I am very pleased with the electric water pump. It's one less rover disaster in the engine bay that I need worry about.
I suspect your easiest fix is to get 1" by 1/4" flat steel bar and make your own bracket. You'll get exactly what you want and with the parts you have
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That thing is like 'Ultimate Wallfare', standard 4" bricks in front of a 4" concrete wall (might have re-bar?), leans back five degrees and has soil behind it nearly to the top and sandstone bed rock at the bottom. I don't think a D11 would push it back? The previous owners spent a small fortune on that and the garage. I guess it was done to get the work through planning? Because an underground garage is a mad thing to do otherwise?
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It seems to be doing the trick at home. Only a competition will show for sure.
Also the float valve is now leaking
And Vid link for fun
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I went with a blowing fan directed at the carbs for winch challenge. The duct is a later add-on to take cool air to the alternator.
I believed that the exhaust manifolds could generate so much heat that I could never remove it fast enough, but I could blow their heat away. The problem is much worse for me because it is rear-rad.
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SU carbs and the bypass system.
I think it's cronk? I have an 8 psi red-top pump and a pressure hold-up valve in the return at the tank. Nose up I'm at maybe 3 psi and nose down over 5psi. It's not working for me even though it is better than my old system.
I plan to fit a petrol-King regulator at the carb end and block the return. If I get any gasiation I believe the carbs will deal with it.
It's worth noting I run a carb cooling fan in the bonnet.
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For Staffordshire I would say this thread is ten years too late
The Staffordshire & Shropshire Land Rover club only exists because all its comps are open permit. That is a logical dodge because things aren't like they were when I first went to their events in 1977. The problem is that trailing events around here could have involved zukes and all sorts and gained a non land-rover following as well. But that option has now gone. It means the trials my dad did around here just don't happen due to numbers.
I wouldn't mind doing some ALRC trials with S&S, but a standard rear cross member and bumper aren't going to last more than half an hour in winch challenge. So I have a 1972 RRC buggy that can't do ALRC events without some fairly serious fabrication work. That's a bit sad.
Current ALRC comps have also killed the sport. To be unfair to it, the event is now grass-tracking. Originally it was a timed rally stage made by connecting all the trials sections together. If you hit 20 miles an hour you were doing well ! My truck would be excellent fun at that traditional style comp, but it's no flat racer because of it's weight.
When I can get time I take the beast and marshal at S&S comps. It's a chance to get out in the fresh air and chill.
For winch challenge we use Viking club for the odyssey-series maybe three times a year.
For trialing we go to Shropshire Off Road Club when we can. They are a great bunch, it's an easy run on the M54 to do them and we get our ass kicked every time we go
For competing the ALRC isn't floating my boat.
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I have long suspected that low oil pressure is the cause of poor starting on the Rover V8.
The Beast has sat since September 2015? (Or at least six months anyway)
I put my speeder bar on the dry sump pump and gave it a turn for half a minute, then let it build fuel pressure, turned it over on the key for maybe three seconds and it ran sweet as
Not bad for points ignition and SU carbs.
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Joke; All the odd numbers had them, except on Tuesday's or near bank holidays, when they swapped to even numbers.
But I bet I'm closer than the actual answer which will likely be; "export models outside the EU, except for that time when we didn't pay the bill in time and the 'expensive ones' were all we had in the stores"
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Well, I hear not and that it peaks at 300psi. But I have nylon-wrap hose with double clips and it's been fine for years doing winch challenge.
A standard Oxford /intercal cooler is rated sub 150 psi. With good barbs on the hose tails and double clips it should be better than fine with single-wrap hyd hose. (Wire wrap)
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I like the idea of the blank cap on the rad and the pressure cap on the rangy expansion bottle as it keeps the top hose and rad full to the top all the time.
I ran my plenum line to the rangy expansion bottle. The old Ford Transit is the same.
The Craig Davis electric pump we put on my RV8 was so successful at the last event it suggests a lot of the problems are from the standard water pump which can't handle anything but a rad in good condition.
Not all copper rads were 100% solder dipped, so they drop performance as they get old and corrosion separates the fins from the tubes.
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I'm still well happy with; Two batteries with andersons on fly leads that plug into bolted-on andersons as holders. Plus diode split charge.
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It have kept walking past it all winter, but it worked well at that last event, so it was probably best left well alone
The waffle boards are getting a new mount as I was fed up of bending/fixing the old one. Also it's getting a filter and engine oil.
There is maybe 30 to 40 hours on the engine now since the rebuild.
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Voltage is handy to say if the charge light being on means you are really doomed or maybe you'll get home?
Most of mine are "why is that happening, is it because......" Gauges. Such as the fuel pressure which was more to do with a past problem than normal running.
I think the most important one is a capillary water temp gauge so you know it reads right independant of everything else.
Best thing for the gearbox we think is semi synthetic oil to maintain viscosity when hot.
Out of that lot the winch pressure gauge is the only used a lot.
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Nigelw - It only does like 3mm 1050 ally. They are 2" rollers and they flex real bad.
There is a bigger set across Rugely at Adcam if you get stuck though. They are new and are quite the trick thing! I don't know how thick they go, but I can't imagine 3mm steel would be an issue.
GDM multi-bends plate in the press brake on thicker stuff. That's how I did my fancy swish rear cross member and front slam panel
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It is a hand roller set that has had a motor shoved on at some point in history. It was on/off only and a bit lethal. The hard part was figuring out I needed a pair of mechanically-interlocked contractors so it couldn't go forward and backward at the same time. Once I knew such a part existed I was away on that side of making it move.
For safety I tried a rope all the way around the outside, but that just stretched before it pulled the switch. So I put two stop switches on the top of the metal box that holds the contractors. Then a rocker arm above those to a couple of bars that run the whole length front and back. If you nudge the bar it shoves one of the stop buttons or the other. They are the twist-to-release ones so the system works great and is super cheap. Lift or push down on the bars it always trips one or the other.
The twin foot pedals have an NC / NO switch each, so they can't send a double signal, only a forward or reverse comand. It's an extra protection and to save the contactors from interlocking.
We've got the press brake for fingers
for something that moves that slow it is suprisingly exciting -
I put proper control gear on this three phase roller set last year with a safety kicker. It's quite useful to have around with forward reverse on foot pedals. Certainly better than the baby hand rollers or fighting the press brake!
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At first glance it just looks 'fun'
its been a while since ive seen that.
in International Forum
Posted
It's still five years old and could have star ship mileage on it?