Team Idris
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Posts posted by Team Idris
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Yeh, this thread isn't confusing enough yet
Because the bolt isn't actually taking the shear force. Its the friction between the two plates that keeps them static. If the shear force is only in one direction, then the plate could move until it contacts the side of the bolt, in which case it become simple shear. (According to mechanics lecturer). But if the load changes direction, it has to be a friction reliant joint.
i.e. we noticed lorry front wheels always finished up with the stud against the same part of the hole in the wheel, as the wheel creapt accross the face of the hub with braking.
I have absolutely no idea what the friction is between two sheets of steel
What about dowling it? But I reconed it was worth mentioning that things arn't as simple as they first appear
And I nearly forgot to mention, if it is shear rather than tensile on the 'bolt', it's better if the shank is a good fit in it's hole. Then you're back up to the full 12mm diameter.
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I liked the cheap oil gun, as long as all was hot and the right way up. I liked the waxoil pressure can, which worked any way up, but had a rubbish nozzel.
And suddenly it was born
Threw the can off the cheap oil gun, jubilee cliped a rubber hose on there and connected it to the waxoil pressure can. A lever tap controls the waxoil flow with my left hand, while I use the air trigger of the gun in my right. That lets you run between full air (blow dirt off) to full waxoil (just messy).
When the waxoil can gave out I changed to a rose sprayer can, which has a better hand pump.
User Mods include; a big fitting on the bottom of the tank instead of a little tube from the top. And pressurising the tank by placing the end of the oil gun nozzle against a tyre to reverse-flow. Obviously making sure the relief valve is free first
I've never figured a good way to reach everywhere inside a box section, even with long-ame-jig, so I mix new engine oil in with the waxoil on the chassis insides. It doesn't dry and hopefully soaks into rust better.
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Father-in-law and his mate have a 2 jack press-brake. They use it to make cone shaped steam engine boilers in 6mm copper. Now I'm not saying it's easy to use
but the effects are impressive. And that opens the window to structures simular to rangy shock obsorber turrets. Our big one at work has a big rotating tube with arms on it to keep the whole assembly parrallel to the V block. Think of it has a huge anti-roll bar!
The depth limit is via screw threads in the rams. These arn't trips, but actually limit the full force of the upper slide. We set them to give repeat bends the same metal depth. The value are written on the front in marker pen.
It really opened up some oportunities at work as well. Now all sort of stuff is possible, that would have been very difficult to make before. And that professional look is a lot easier to achieve.
And it works well with a CNC punch press, though thats not really a machine that can be made at home
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And then its perfect for pushing the new one back in
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Nice work
And nothing put a press brake or folder gives those 'buiscuit tin' sharp bends
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I popped rubber hose onto the steel tubes. There was surface rust so I reconed I'd get away without the ribbed pipe ends. And as far as we know, the non-electronic ZF4 we have is on a bypass. Then we used a 16 'oxford' style oil cooler. (the ones they sell as engine coolers).
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Going slow to be honest
I suspect that LRS Nightmare may be my second event this year? Engine is back in with everything added to it that I can think of to make it reliable (Studs and composite gaskets). I'm at the stage of placing the dry sump pump down the side of the engine and making a new sump.
Looking forward to getting it going, as the front locker was very good at Bridgenorth with Buxton Club. It's such a relief to back it out of ditches on full lock and not worry about popping a CV.
Wouldn't be summer without a major truck blow-up though
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Yeh, the tail stop tapping is really good. Father in law has a miller with auto tapping attachment. That and the lathe take all the missery out of tapping holes
Not that I'm bad at tapping, just drilling out studs. I always make a pigs ear of that!
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Dunsfold fixed me up with a 3 slot front pulley. No idea whats it is off, but the front one is about 140mm, so a little smaller than the alternator slot. So its not for 24volt I guess? Either way up, it was the right money, and its on
Even the drive coupling still fits inside it, which is lucky, as the drive is off a train, so no particular reason it had to fit Anyway, I write to say that I'm not welding the sump to the Team-Idris pump plate. We think the weld will twist the plate. So I'll cut the old sump to take the 16 gauge steel pressing. If I've got my Fab head on, it might line up with the trough
The pump position looks to be the old RRC power steering pump position, which is low on the left hand side. This means the shortest suction lines possible and that they will be away from the prop. The low position should mean the best 'head' for the main oil pump. It will get some mud though. Lets hope the front seal is good. The pulley is a 6" ally one with 12mm hole (cheap as chips) which I bored to 1/2".
Let fabrication comence
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On mine they widened the circlip groove so the quill shaft could move around a bit without releasing the clip. Seems to have done it
I think mine was the first to evict the quill shaft, as they gave the lathe some stick trying to test my diff under load.
The other KAM trick/mod was to load the planet gears up so the sun gear was always pushed over. This was done so hard the diff wouldn't rotate, but the theory was sound, just the execution was a little ham-fisted
Funny that ashcroft shafts would have meant it never happened. We considered a locating tube, but as its been okay we moved onto other vehicle faults
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Phosphoric acid bought as 'jenlight' left in there to soak. Don't breath it, but it re-processes rust
Also good in a jam jar if stuff is small enough to fit in. Especially good at freeing ball bearings if they are soaked in it!
The aircraft boys soak sulphiric acid into coton wool type stuff. I havn't found a handy household equivalent for phosphoric yet.....
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I had a leaky torch cable. It was coming out of the welder set end. Its a sneaky fault with no loud 'hissing' sound.
I rammed the thing full of silicon. I reconed the only place it could come out then was the weldy end
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Is was being really awkward and wouldn't come sideways to lign up for the exit. My under body protection acts a bit like a keel
And I had no front locker then, so the front wheels wern't helping at all. We had to go to a snatch block up a tree for a 'lift' ! We always seem to be 'more stuck' when the anchor point is close to the winch and the drum is full. On the last wrap it'll pretty much rip the truck out of anything
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You could have an 'on load' gear change for winch-in only. Its done with a sprag clutch on internation tractors, plus a brake. It was like a switch operated overdrive. (I suppose it was like the car one) When it broke it defaulted to the low speed I think?
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Time is the difference as we see it. If your on a tough punch you could be at 30+ degrees for 5 minutes. If the pick ups are at the very extremes of the sump, ones going to be getting nothing but air for that time. (hence my odd baffles)
You havn't seen a problem and thats fair, I'm not saying your wrong, and that common outlet 'Y' probably splashes oil back down into the dry pump section. But nobody will give any sort of garantee on that. Or, to quote pace "you can't run the scavenge pump dry for any length of time".
If you said; "I run a 3 stage scavenge pump from ------ and we regularly run it at very steep angles for 10 mins at a go, and a stripdown shows no extra wear" I'd be well happy to go with that. I'd risk my £500
But nobodys exactly saying that. Infact, everybodys saying the opposite?
With this other pump the question won't arise, as it'll never be running without lubricant
Equally, if it's continually primed it'll definately suck better when its pick up is submerged back in the oil and should give it a longer service life.
Plenty of time to discuss it yet though. I only got the pistons back in today
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Really enjoying the mods made to this winch
Blimey, zim listed my wish list too;
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My wish list :
bearings on the drum
variable power (i.e. hydraulic spool valve)
gears (but 3 + free, not 2 like i have now)
big rope capacity
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A gear between 'big-pull' and 'speed' would be very welcome
Every so often I wonder if there is a way of doing somthing to that TDs to make it have a high gear by locking one epicyclic to another. ( I bought the 12,000lb- awsome pull, but slow) My bicycle can do it, why not my winch!
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I spoke to David Lazenby who worked for Lotus and Pace. My work mate worked for him at at Pace and he also helped us with our aluminium brazing oven when were at our whitts end. A sound bloke indeed!
I rang him as we were thinking of keeping a slight pressure in the tank to reduce pressure-pump cavitation. He'd had the same idea years back, tried it and had no luck. The pressure stops the air bubbles coming out of the oil. If the system could stand it, a vacuum would be better!
We also disscussed the problem of running pumps dry at steep angles. He has a solution! He can change the pump he already sells to 'self lubricate' the scavenge sections. It'll look the same on the outside, but do the job! No need for strange dam-baffles to keep both pumps wet
You could drill conections into your existing sump I recon, and still get the benefit
This is extra good news for me, as I suspect my sump-trough is in the same vicinity as my axel breather and diff wire
Putting them on the top-left side of the diff pumpkin seemed like such a good idea in March I was going to use the existing RV8 pump. I have totally gone off this idea. It's a complicated way of using a bad part and would have took hours to sort out.
I'm intending nicking the alternator belt for the pump-pack, and putting the twin pulleys on the power steering pump for the alternator. (like later RV8's) I'll have to run a crank sized pulley on the pump, as it would normally run at half crank speed on a racing car with a small crank pulley. But my PTO shaft is in the way and I only rev to low amounts by comparison. So no reason it won't work and bigger pulley means more drive area
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I'm running the standard rangy V8 ones. I recon the snorkel hose itself is a bit of a filter; as the inside gets dirty, that must be dirt not reaching the filters?
But your system sounds well installed, so I'd nip down to the local agri dealer and get somthing off a tractor. They are much larger in area, as they work in dust. I ran a Deutze one for a few years.
The cintrifugal pre-cleaners are good, but use engine power to work properly (air intake speed is needed to get it all spinning fast, so they are matched to the working engine speed).
Check out these guys http://www.agriemach.com/ . They do proper filter bodies and a lot of racing type stuff. I got my exhaust wrap from there. Well worth a smurf - I'd love to see there warehouse
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Defiantely not right on the rear end, as the mid mount position lets the winch self reeve. You can pull from any angle for the whole rope length and not worry what its doing
On ours we popped in two virtical tubes to stop the top winch point colapsing the cage. Its a good brace/winch-mount combo. Here's the winch rollers with roller for the top point hoop.
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People are seeing good things from the lexus and BMW V8's.
I wanted some power, and to stay with an ALRC option, and to have some reliability from a fairly common engine. So I'm sticking with 3.5 RV8. Crank and head work came to about £500, there or there about £700 for a 'high torque' piper cam and stud kits + other odds and ends. Then there is the re-bore, and rings (I had pistons). It's about as far as you can go internally on a normal-blokes-money without messing with compression and grinding the insides!
It'll fit right back in without any adaption. And as the old cam shaft was absolutely stuffed, it should be a lot more powerfull.
So the question is, how lucky are you at buying S/H engines (I'm awful) and how much tinkering with exhaust pipes and the like are you willing to tackle ?
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Sounds a good test that.
And its what happens when you test with a flow meter. You replace the driven thing with the flow meter and restrict the flow down with it's valve. And if that looks wrong you connect direct to the pump and do the same test
(without blowing the pump up) As you havn't got one of those though; if it runs freely from the hose back into the tank, and can generate pressure, then its normally okay. And it's the pressure test which has led me to fit 3/8" bsp test points to the winch circuit and power steering circuit as well as having a gauge permanently 'T'eed into the 'winch-in' hose. I guess its the oil equivalent of a multi-meter.
Fingers crossed it's an obvious fault.....
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From what I'm told by Pace, that shouldn't work, because scavenge pumps cant work dry, so a segment connected to the rocker box would wreck itself?
I don't see why a vacuum is needed in the crank case?
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Suprisingly well. There's twitchy moment when you first try it, but on the first layer and with a full 90degree left side pull, it can lift the right hand wheels off the ground
We're well happy with it, as it makes a very capable winch just that bit better, because you can move the rope onto a fresh piece of 'first wrap', to get your pull power back, unlike a deep drum. Simples.
I hope will4x4 sorts his system out, as hydraulic is kick-ass over electric. Stalling out electric winches makes me wince, but stalling out the hydraulic is nowt to worry about
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Its unlikely to be speed as they can run at 3000rpm on a standard 3phase electric motor. The normal cause for cavitation is a blocked suction strainer in the tank. On rare occasions a colapsed hose is the problem.
If its a completely new instalation it could be anything. (need details) But I run a 3/8" spool valve block when it should be 1/2". (30 lit/min ish) And run direct off the V8 crank. The suction hose is 3/4" bore, so it follows the rule of twice deliver area. The suction strainer is a long one and is a mesh rather than a filter. (only filter on the return to tank). But also be aware of tank vortex, when the oil does like your plug hole.
If its any help they arn't quiet. Mine sounds like this
though a lot of noise in the vid is cooling fans.We really need photo's to help. Where are you based?
What about dowling it? 
but the effects are impressive. And that opens the window to structures simular to rangy shock obsorber turrets. 
(without blowing the pump up)
Anyone on here know about
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Or work it back from the hole spacing. A D71 has one standard foot, and so on up the range.
We currently use Rotor-Motor at work. Beatsons arn't far up the road from you and have always been helpfull when I've asked for stuff
Its the maker you want, rather than the supplier, who often sell a range of qualities!
I know I should be able to tell you what a V twin piston compressor power is, given the CFM and pressure
But I note the motors seem to be a little oversize to get the thing started. Unlike the screw's that start off-load.