DiscoClax

Hi all, Just a quick update. I ended up fitting a Tough Dog HD Steering Damper (in std location... for now). 35mm bore, foam cell, for about AUD120. 10,000kms later and it's made a world of difference off-road and the minor steering kick-back on-road has been toned down, too. Thanks to all for their input. And I'll definitely be looking at re-locating it when I change the links. P.S. The front end "shimmy" I was talking about earlier was more of a vehicle response to road shocks than a regular vibration. Hubs and wheel balance/run-out/etc all in really good nick... Thankfully. Cheers.

Now why didn't I think of that? Everything that can be sold is on there somewhere... Cheers to all for replies. I need to put something in the spot where the "Prodrive" sticker used to live. By pure coincidence it fell off shortly after they retrenched me...

Hi all, Does anyone have any idea where I can get the subject-line sticker from? Was it dealer fit? I was following a nicely set-up County on the way home tonight and he had the sticker on his rear window (just visible through the mud). Cheers.

Geez, you Poms really DO have some serious rust issues...

Hi all. According to my copy of the LR D1 WSM the torque spec is 130Nm (about 96 ft.lbs for the metrically challenged). Refer screen dump attached below. Note that (if fitting a different flange) you should technically check and adjust as necessary the pinion bearing pre-load (with shims - requires partial diff tear-down). This is because these diffs use shims, rather than a collapsible spacer to get the pre-load right. For example, if the new flange is deeper the bearing may be excessively loaded (too tight) and if shorter the bearing will be too loose. Both may adversely affect bearing life and operation, if really loose it could also cause gear-mesh issues. For reference the torque to turn the pinion shaft should be 3Nm in isolation with new bearings (without it meshed to the crown-wheel and no seal), and 1.5Nm if original bearings are re-used (about 26 and 13 in.lbs respectively). That's with the pinion nut done up to 130Nm. Having said that, I've done it a few times on other diffs without re-shimming and all has worked OK even after hundreds of thousands of kms of subsequent use. I've always checked the end-float as I've tightened up the nut and ensured that I don't tighten it excessively after the pre-load becomes zero (and equally checked that it does actually go to zero). Not really an exact science... By the way, nice write-up and ingenious "puller" Good one.

I've just measured the old one I replaced a few days ago. It's about 8mm thick (axially) and 18mm wide (radially). From that I'd say that the measurements you quoted are axial thicknesses and you need the 8mm one. Best of luck P.S. They cost over AU$30 each here (GBP12) non-gen, hopefully a bit cheaper in the UK? P.P.S. Check out the alternative swivel seal replacement method by Les in the tech archives. Could save you some time. That's the way I did mine, but I botched it, so take your time if you do it this way and clean the area thoroughly before starting.

Is it a Disco 1 or 2 (or 3?) I think all of the D1s had the same seal (common to Rangie Classic as well), but I could be wrong. The EPC shows one seal for all D1s '89-'98 (LR p/n FTC3401), and mentions "9mm" in the part descriptor. Check out Item 11 in the attached screen dump. Hope this helps in some way

Hmmm, not sure I can speak (type?) with any authority on winches. I'd say it probably comes down to what it was designed to use. Just like different transmissions/diffs/engines/etc are designed for different grades of oil/grease, and changing these can adversely affect function or durability, I guess winches are largely the same. The bearing areas and seals would be typically designed for that lubricant type and characteristics, and changing that may cause problems (wear, leaks, etc). I'd generally go with a good-quality version of whatever lubricant is recommended by the manufacturer in that specific equipment, but it's not my area of expertise so it's a conservative statement. Are there any winch experts out there that can shed any light? I'm looking to fit a winch in the (hopefully not to distant) future, so I'm quite interested if there are any tips or tricks to keeping them lubed adequately.

No worries, glad to help. Sorry I got a bit carried away... I do that sometimes

I remember some time ago seeing some mention (on another forum... ahem) of using some whiz-bang special grease ilo of the factory specified EP90 (or EP80 for cooler climates). Apparently it doubles your chances of winning the lottery and clears up acne, too. I've always run either EP90 or lately EP85w140, especially as I've had a weeping swivel seal and I'm lazy The 85w140 doesn't thin out as much as it warms up, and I operate in reasonably warm conditions year-round, so was willing to make this minor deviation and live with the miniscule effect on fuel consumption for possibly better wear protection and shock cushioning (and slower leaking). BTW I've just replaced the offending swivel seal using the Les "dodgy" quick-change method (refer tech archives). Seems to have worked a treat - except for the join which is leaking like a stuck-pig. More likely due to my rushed workmanship in less-than-ideal conditions (lying on my back under car on gravel, gale-force winds, rain, annoying small children) than any problem with the method. Silicone applied with extreme prejudice now, fingers crossed. I'm a professional driveline engineer and know first-hand the ridiculous amount of testing and validation done by the OEM vehicle manufacturers to ensure proper operation and durability and economy and compliance with emissions regs and... Therefore, I'd have to recommend as a general rule not deviating away from the specified lubricant/torque/fuel/instruction/etc unless you have a good, thoroughly researched reason to do it. Lecture over, normal programming re-commenced Also, IMHO, regular changing of lubricating fluids is mandatory for long life. All oils/greases have additives along with the base oil. EP gear oils have an extreme-pressure (EP) additive which will degrade over time, especially if operated at high temperatures (most common EP additives will boil-off at somewhere between 160-180degC for instance), which then reduces the oil's ability to cushion shock and stop the metal bits taking chunks out of each other. There's also anti-foaming additives (to stop the oil from frothing like a rabid dog and pumping itself out of the breathers and away from the bearing surfaces), anti-waxing agents (to stop the oil becoming solid at low temps), anti-glazing agents, additives to hold the contaminants in suspension, and many other boring but essential ones. Most of the advances made in modern lubricant relate to improved additives. They all degrade with time, oxidation, temperature cycling, contamination with dirt/metal/moisture/etc. Mineral-based oils also "lose" an amount of their viscosity in the first few hundred or thousand kms due to the internal-molecular-bonds being chopped-up, shortening the chains. (now where did I leave my anorak?) Not so much of a problem with synthetic oils which resist this very well. Depending on your usage profile, I'd be changing (mineral-based) fluids at least every 2yrs/50,000kms as a rough guide, or more often if it cops a flogging (heavy towing, harsh environment use, courier work, etc. It's cheap insurance, and please get decent stuff - not the cheapest you can find. Just don't get me started on "sealed-for-life" automatic transmissions/bearings/CVs/etc... Aaaargh! Caveat:- All of the above is merely my opinion and no pangs of guilt will be experienced for any subsequent damages or hair-loss. So there!

FYI - To answer my own question... I've done some digging and it seems that all of the EFI fuel pump sender units are effectively the same between 3.5 and 3.9 up to chassis# MA140197. P/n PRC9409 (and PRC9668, now serviced with 9409). Hope that's right as I've just bought one out of an 1992 EFI 3.5 for mine off eBay The carby ones have a different unit (PRC7128), but I don't think they were sold in Oz anyway? Now I just need to get the courage up to do battle with my auxilliary fuel tank...

Thanks all for your feedback. Good advice. I must admit that I was concerned that the RTC dampers were a bit of a band-aid. I'm looking at sourcing a decent drag link at the moment and will look into relocating the damper as suggested behind my steering protector. A decent damper out here is north of AU$120 (call it £50), so not something I'd like to be replacing too often... Are the bigger-bore, heavy-duty ones worthwhile in a relatively mild, daily-driven rig like mine, or are they overkill designed for competition trucks? Are there down-sides to fitting them? Slow steering response, lack of feel, high efforts, etc? BTW, I notice that you UK-lot seem to avoid extensive bar-work on your rigs from what I've seen. Is that due to legislation, are panels cheap and plentiful, or are your trees/wildlife that much softer than ours

Good one, Rog I must admit I had similar thoughts and got my alignment checked when I had the tyres fitted last week. Unfortunately the wheel alignment was spot-on and so they didn't have to tweak anything, and they didn't even charge me for it. However the steering wheel is off-centre, as it has always been since I bought the beast a couple of years ago. About a year ago I got the workshop supervisor at work to have a crack at it and he worked on it for over half an hour and got the link ends glowing with the oxy and the bl**dy things still wouldn't budge. I think I might just write it off and find a good used one which isn't seized beyond hope.

Have tried the stillson's with a nice long length of pipe and a bit of applied attitude and heat... with no luck Any other suggestions, or should I just give up and get a replacement drag link assembly?

Hi all, I'm running 31" muds and still have a std-type steering damper that's done quite a few years of service. It felt OK last time I pulled it out and compressed/extended it by hand, but I'm thinking that a new one might be a good investment, esp with the new bigger, heavier tyres fitted. The vehicle does an increasing amount of heavy off-road work, the majority of the rest at highway speeds. It's got power steering fitted. I do get some minor shimmy and shake through the wheel on-road, and more kick-back off-road than I expected in an otherwise comfortable vehicle. I don't want to waste my money on the wrong choice and risk turning my daily drive into a dog. Am I better off with a decent Heavy-Duty (big-bore) type of damper than a standard duty? Pros and Cons? Has anyone had experience with RTC (return-to-centre, coil-over) steering dampers? Pros and Cons? Does it really help, or is it snake-oil?

Thanks I'll take that advice and reef on it seriously and hope that it let's go. Was worried that it might damage the ball-joints if really tight

Hi all, Despite soaking mine in CRC, bashing with hammers, heating, hoicking on vice grips, and various form of swearing at them... I still have seized adjusters on my drag link. Is there a trick to freeing them up? It seems that it's not an uncommon issue from what I can glean so hopefully someone can provide some much appreciated advice. Thanks.

Thanks for that. I assume from your reply that all variants of D2 had the DC shaft and length is OK? Exhaust shouldn't be a problem as I have custom pipework well-away from the shaft (no cross-over, twin pipes right through), and no cats (Oz models are cat-free, low-comp). Is the shaft a fairly straightforward swap, or are special tools, etc required? I've got all of the basic tools (and torque wrench, etc), but nothing exotic and no access to hoist, etc at this time. Is there a collapsible spacer or anything I need to replace as well, or do I just swap the flange and torque to spec?

Hi all, Q1 - Can anyone confirm if the in-tank EFI fuel pump assy used in Disco 1s was the same between the 3.5 and 3.9ltr versions? Mine's a bit "temperamental" and there's a 3.5 one going on eBay at the moment. Q2 - I'm trying to chase down a front driveshaft with a DC joint at the TC-end. Can anyone tell me what they were fitted to and will they bolt straight into a D1 update 3.9a? My Disco's lifted and the front shaft, TC-end UJ has an excessive static angle (rumble, rumble...), plus I want to crank up the caster, which will make this worse. Thanks in advance for your words of sage counsel Best Regards.

Here's a couple of recent one's of mine...

My two-bob's... I've fitted 2" lifted King Springs (+25% rate) in my D1 3.9, which ended up only lifting it by about 1.5" due to the extra weight of the steel bull-bar and the gas tanks and aux petrol tank. If the shocks are standard travel, you should be pretty-much OK just doing the lift. If the shocks are longer, then I'd suggest you lengthen your brake lines and check axle breathers at full stretch at least. Note that lifting the suspension will decrease your front end caster and might make it a bit more "wandery" on highway. 2" of lift will probably drop the factory +3 deg caster back to around about +1 deg or so. Offset bush kits (typ around +2.5deg) are available (at least in Oz) to increase the caster back to something like factory, but check your front driveshaft UJ working angles if you do this - could be a bit much at the transfer case end if you've got a UJ-UJ shaft. Mine's running the std bushes, etc and has about +1.5 deg caster. OK generally on road, but can get a bit loose in heavy crosswinds, etc so I'll be replacing the front shaft with one incorporating a double-cardan joint at the rear and putting offset bushes in to give me around +4 deg caster - that should make it nice and stable. Cheers, and good luck