danebrewer

oh right, yeah, I forgot about that, but he didn't state which way the arc was I din't think, I assumed it would be outwards.....

wht should there be an arc? as the axles sit in the same place all the time being a beam axled vehicle, if you put weight on it will squash down equally on all 4 corners, just making the spring shorter, I could understand that the spring might arc on an independently sprung wishbone type vehicle (L200 Hilux etc, an arc in the springs might suggest that the mmounting points for the springs are in the wong place, or at least that's what I muse.... I bet someone with better knowlwge will clear this up Could you post a photo so we can se it for ourselves? Cheers

I have a mantec, strong as anything, the plunger that rides in a pipe that keeps the carrier mated to the door when you open it is made of nylon, really smooth and easy to open. my Uncle has a Bearmach (I think) carrier, does the same thing but not nearly as well, the plunger instead of being nylon and low friction appears to be made if yellow passivate coated steel, makes a horrid noise when you open it plus it's not nearly as smooth or easy to open as the mantec. Buy the mantec. it looks better and performs better. (even though it costs a bit more )

she's pinching your landy? what?

the thing with those online insurance companies you've never heard of before probably won't cover you for an awful lot of things. like britpart stuff, it looks great because it's cheap but in reality it's carp.

in short? Yes....... Very. about £490 or so each I recall, might be a smidge less.... I think I'll be waxoyling the insides then!

I'm currently doing my swivels.... what's the benefit of EP90 over one shot in the housings? plus I have (very expensive) LR genuine balls. the coating apears to be done by some sort of PVD process rather than the teflon you get on frying pans.... how are the sh#tpart ones coated?

no ideas 'm afraid.... don't see why LR would make the process of assembling the doors more costly, I'd have thought they'd all be welded except for perhaps the rear door which they might have braised because of the shocks loading of the rear wheel on there....

Hi folks, I just throught I’d show you guys how I took my “new” 2007 vintage doors apart to change the locks and to go for a respray….. I mainly did this for myself, but seeing as I already wrote the instructions as I was doing it, I though it wouldn’t be too much of a stretch to type it up and stick it on here! This all works easiest with the door off and on the floor… It’s also the order I did it in, some of the steps may be swapped around as it might work better, but this method worked ok for me. First of all you need to remove the door furniture, the window winder handle is held on with a circlip (sorry about not having a pic) but if you bend it up and look at it from the side you can see a bit of wire. The way I found to take it off is to get a couple of teeny screwdrivers, the kind you use for doing up screws on glasses, and slide one down each side (use flat ones as there’s a better chance you’ll catch the circlip and not have it slip off) of the winder handle from the handle end, and away from the knob. It’ll take a few goes, but you want to dislodge the circlip from the spindle it’s on, it won’t ping anywhere, and you should notice the handle lift a bit, here is where it will be easy to wiggle off. Next remove the door handle, same as all the other post series 3 vehicles with a screw under each of the pop off covers at each end of the handle. Now remove the door latch bezel opposite to the lock side, it secures by a single screw under the lift up handle. The door locking button bezel is a but more tricky… with the window down (in the door) sit so you are looking from the top of the door, you need a broad screwdriver to fit behind the bezel on the flat (largest surface to the inside) of the door, and another smaller thin screwdriver just to lever the bezel up a smidge, now, being careful that it does ot slip off, pul with the broad screwdriver from behind the bezel towards you (don’t lever it as you might break it) it’s pretty tight on there, in a few goes, it should slip off and reveal the locking button naked! Next, find the securing points for the door panel and prise it off with a large bladed screwdriver so as to not damage the panel. You’ll soo a foam weather sheet next, again carefully peel this off, it’s secured with some sticky gunky non curing stuff so be careful not to get it on the carpet! If you tear it it’s not the end of the world as I’m sure you can get another from LR…. Not sure what you’d stick it on with though any ideas? Now you’re to the nuts and bolts! (and the pictures) OOOOOK! So you should see something that looks like this: DSC_0394 by danebrewer12, on Flickr Now remove the bolts around the outside of the black panel, I’ve started doing this here and put them to one side. An ice cream tub is good. Disconnect link rod B from the remote control lever (B) from the latch mechanism near the number 1 in the photo below DSC_0406 by danebrewer12, on Flickr The green clip can just be unclipped with your fingers and swung away to the side. The link rod will now just drop out. DSC_0408 by danebrewer12, on Flickr Remove the bolts securing the wintor regulator to the black panel in the centre of the panel. They’re the same as the other panel bolts so don’t worry about getting them mixed up. Lift off the panel and the window regulator will be revealed. The next bit all works best with the window in the up position so do this ideally before you remove the panel. DSC_0410 by danebrewer12, on Flickr Now remove the two bolts securing the window regulator to the bottom of the window and remove the regulator and set it to one sideon some cardboard as it’ll be greasy. DSC_0412 by danebrewer12, on Flickr If you want to respray then remove the door locking button screws and then remove the button from it’s link rod DSC_0413 by danebrewer12, on Flickr DSC_0414 by danebrewer12, on Flickr Now you’ll need to disconnect the link rods from the door handle arrowed here: not necessarily! only if you want to remove the door handle do you have to do this. otherwise you can just pop off the circlip shown in the next steps and remove part (6) and the lock barrel will slide right out. I've obviously done it so I can have the door sprayed properly but if you're only changing the locks this won't be necessary... DSC_0418 by danebrewer12, on Flickr DSC_0417 by danebrewer12, on Flickr They are a bit tricky to get off you can use your fingers but it’s pretty painful, either a pair of pliers or a screwdriver will work here (or a combination of the two) I had a pair of old pliers which had a bolt securing the two halves, with one half of the jaws on the rod and the other on the clip I could pop it off. Be careful as these will ping off. Make sure you know where they went! For safe keeping just push them back on the ends of the rods they came off of. DSC_0419 by danebrewer12, on Flickr Remove the 2 torx bolts along with the washers holding the door handle on You can now rotate the door handle out and upwards to get it out of the slot it was in. DSC_0421 by danebrewer12, on Flickr Screw the torx bolts back in to the handle for safe keeping and remove the circlip holding the lock barrel and the die cast actuator arm thing (6) in place. DSC_0422 by danebrewer12, on Flickr The lock will now slide out! DSC_0423 by danebrewer12, on Flickr As with other doors, the lock barrel is secured to the door via this connecting tube it’s held in by a spring loaded pin in the lock barrel. Depress this and the lock and connecting tube will come apart. DSC_0424 by danebrewer12, on Flickr DSC_0425 by danebrewer12, on Flickr To reassemble… just go backwards! I’ll probably end up taking a couple of other things off like some of the seals and rubber strips when I send it off for painting, but that’s good enough for replacing the lock barrel. It might not be necessary to remove the door locking button, but as I’m respraying, I took it off anyway. Hope this helps! Oh and another thing, remember to get suited locks as the new defender keys are massive for some reason and you don’t really want 3 of those knocking around on your keyring, so eventually I’ll have 2 new door keys (big ones) an ignition key (old style) and a rear door key!... I think I’ll need some way of knowing which is which in the dark! Anyways, I hope this helps someone.

I'd go a little further affield, west you've got john daunter and CWS 4w4, both look like good outfits...

well I phoned paddockthis am, I asked whether the 8mm was a mis print and they said it probably was, as the part no is correct, so I rodered it! will see what it looks like when it comes!

yep, got that, I think I'm just going to get 2 of the original retaining plates to go on there....as well as the gasket Thanks for the help guys, I'll let you know what paddock say about the swivel seal.

done that! or rather got a welding co to do it.... Arc welding has never been too good for thin stuff.... the 12 ft/lbs I have just done to "about there" not too slack, not too tight, and torqued up the outer nut with a torque wrench...

stainless yes! mine are terribly pitted, gonna have to get some new ones Hi western, my Land Rover parts book says 1 plate per side for the 20L-23L and 2 per side for 61L-64L. thing is my axle no is 22L but it had the 2 retaining plates! I think I'll just go with the 2 it had on seems simplest... moooreee shipping costs....

mine had 2 retaining plates on when I took it off (part no. 571755) would it matter too much if I replaced it with the single plate (part no. FRC4142)? what was/is the reason for the single plate? i guess it spreads the load better, and is the single plate thicker than the double plates? as far as I can tell, the retaining plates are both flat, no step at all. Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated. Thanks, Ian, I've measured the old seal where it crossed the gap at the top of the housing (so wasn't pressed against the seat) and the britpart seal, they're both +/- 9mm, with the BP seal more like 9.5mm sooo... what's the deal with Paddocks listing the OE seal as 8mm? gonna have to ring them up on monday methinks....

yeah, that's what I thought, the seal atm, stands proud of the face of the swivel housing, I wonder whether with the smaller. ie less tall seal this protrusion wouldn't be as big? Which I guess is needed for the seal to seal effectively against the swivel housing. also, should the seal be a tight fit in the housing or a loose fit. as the one I have in the kit just drops in with quite a bit of slop and I'm not too happy about it tbh... oh yeah those are the ones I was looking at, I have just measured it, the 9mm as you say is the seal depth, so, as you look at the seal from the side, it'll be the width. I'll go and order some then!

Hi all, I'm currently in the middle of rebuilding the swivels on my '85 90", and have gotten the willys over the seals included in the britpart kit. so I'm going to get some OE ones. trouble is, paddock lists the same part no. as Jcraddock, but paddock lists the seal as being "8mm" and craddock lists the seal as being "9mm" is there any appeciable difference between the two? CHeers DB