kiall
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Posts posted by kiall
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There is no way it would be practical for me to change anything I touch as there are simply too many nuts and bolts that I do and undo on a daily basis. There are very few days of the month that somthing isnt unbolted and replaced on my 90. I do of course change anything that is looking ropey like a flat spring washer or a nyloc nut that has lost its plastic or is looking worse for wear.
bolts and nut are very in-expensive , u should always change them ie new nut with n/l its a good practice to do , keep things safe for u and others
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u wont need to take it out for that gasket u can do it from the top
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recently i was working on a discovery 300tdi with a r380 with same problem rumbling in 5 and on a long journey u would struggle to get it out of 5th apparently it was ither balk rings or the layshaft bearing new box sorted it
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thats your cv cage joint and ball bearings
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ur just as easy taking the engine out to do it on the td5s the disco u have to take the inlet off to get access to its 50/50 between them both
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snap on racks plus sealy racks
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Unless this was bled using pressure then it won't be bled propperly. And even then it's quite difficult to get it right and improves over time.
not true they do sumtimes do this get trapped air and over night it sorts itself
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yup it does but its on for clutchs with pilot bearings
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What do u use to align your clutch apart from a old iput shaft or the landrover tool les uses a input shaft but what do others use
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After removing the transfer box to do the clutch i damages the input seal on the transfer box anybody know the number and where to get it online
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atf automatic transmission fluid, ep extreme pressure ie hypoid gears , jcb for jcbs lol because then get red hot if u dont use their oils
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Hi, I have a new accelerator cable which I made from matching cable, sleeve, and fittings from vehicle wiring products. It takes a bit of a tour round the engine bay as the throttle assembly is on the left hand side of the engine and facing forwards on the mazda engine. It feels a bit stiff when depressing the pedal and does not allow a smooth application of throttle, will lubricating the cable help? If so,. what would be best, was thinking WD40 but then thought this may dry out quickly? Any thoughts?
Cheers,
Martin
use atf or something like that and run it down it
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air lines , diesel lines , hydraulics will do that kinda damage even kill u !!
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use a 1/2 12point 1/2 drive socket on a breaker bar smooth and even pressure
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well i work as a agricultural engineer and i can tell u ive seen some pretty bad woulds with hydraulic pipes bursting when operators are near machines , very dangerous diesel doesnt blow out like hydraulic but get your finger near that and it inject straight into your fingers! even working with diesel engines i have my safety glasses on for this reason always keep yourself safe never trust hydraulics ither
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I have a mate with a hydaruilcs company.
For all the crimps all they use is a huge F off Hydraulic crimper than hexagonally crimps up the ferrel over the pipe and on top of the fitting - awesome.
Never seen one of these, but I will ask when I next see him
Nige
thats what we use u get different dies like 4-6 8-10 12-14 depending on the hose diameter and number of wires, and it perfectly crimps the ferrels tight
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at work we used a bench hand pump hydraulic crimper the the correct dies per hose size and number of wire, personally its the only way id like to do them it gives a nice clean crimp at the correct tension
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their bloody expensive i was looking at them and they were coming in at £30 odd quid warn do then i think
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as per this thread http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6917
where do u get the seal kit from ? as a whole kit together and also the dust seal and bearing mentioned in les description basicallyeverything he used and where to get it from online as i dont have microcat to check online part numbers
thanks kiall
cmon someone beat ralph
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yup get the paper and and get to work
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I must actually admit you see that I LOVE the 'psst' noise (hence why I want it)
Ps Nige, you seem to already be driving my dream!!
I don't think my overall ideas are too far off the mark do you?
pulling away from the traffic lights hmmm , dunka dunka dunka pssssttt dunka dunka not for me lol
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just put i new grinding disk on then start from the back of the race to the from and hold the grinder flat and work your way alonguntill u see the center start to blue and get hot and cool very quick then take a chisel and hit alond the area that u have just ground to create a split then hit the race one way so that it starts to rotate on the shaft until u can start to draw it off it does take a while
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a big lever in the a frame joint u will see it moved possibly jack it up ive only seen then total knacked
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one thing is between mig and arc youll find your weld speed very slow with arc compared to mig
td5 cold start problem
in International Forum
Posted
leaky injectors..? leaking over night