kiall
-
Posts
144 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by kiall
-
-
Hydraulic winches are only slow if you use a pump that is not moving enough oil through it, this can be caused by too smaller pump body or by running the pump too slow.
Forget power steering pumps, use a comershal hydraulic setup and enjoy fast reliable winching (all day if needed)
Most hydraulic pumps can be used with manual or electro-magnetic clutches so pump drive can be disconected whenever
it not being used.
I run my pump straight off the nose of the crank,no belts, no chains,no problems.(will try to post some pictures)
i would use a pump of a scag very powerful little unit
-
ive done it on my front diff make sure and clean everydrop out of the diff ass it warms up and gets in the welding area , make sure u spend alot of time cleaning up the surface and the new diff as its coated in a thick black paint , then i cleaned a very good earth then started , i got it all in the right place then tacked at 12 , 3 , 6 , 9 , then i welded about 1" then moved to opposite are then welded and do it like that as i noticed that the heat was very quick distorting the pan, also leave in the filler plug to hold the shape
-
mines known as the slut.
n reg disco at work ends in bsl so thats basil
my work 90 is called the brokelbunk mobile ,cause my nick name is brokel
our 51 disco commercial is called the *gd yin*
-
anyone ?
-
Oops, I forgot one of the questions I wanted to ask in the first place
: Is there really any difference between standard wheels and alloy ones? Besides the prices tag and the look, is there really any benefit in getting such wheels on a Def?
diff bassically allows the wheels to move a different speeds so that u are dragging the wheel around the corner if u jack up one side of the car of the ground and put in first the wheels will spin anf th other wont move at all hence the saying give power to the least resistance , the transfer box is mainly only used for high and low ratio with the locking option
so if u lock the diff u are giving equal and constant power to both wheels helps if u have one wheel of the ground trying to get traction , ie if u had no diff lock and had the front left anf rear right wheel of the ground u aint going no where but with diff lock u can have the wheels on the ground in the same situation driving
-
Hey all ive got a new gearbox for my 110 and it was put it by one of my work mate but he didnt check the link , so i can only get reverse 1, 2 ,3 ,4 , how do i setup or adjust the link , it wound the 5th gear stop right out and still dont get it , any help would be great!
-
I agree wholeheartedly. I reckon you need at least a metre all round a vehicle, not including any work benches etc. Also think about height, a LR on a decent set of axle stands could be almost 8 feet high. If you're thinking of an up-and-over door remember that these take up quite a bit of space when they're being opened/closed.
I have a common or garden so-called double garage which I find a bit "tight" with just one Rangie in it. Less than a metre space at the back and it's hard up against the door at the front. I have to close the bonnet before I can open/close the up and over door.
At my last house I built a large double garage alongside the existing single one. Used the front half of the single as a workshop and the rear half as a utility room with hot & cold water, sink etc.
I also used larger than standard section roof trusses so I could space then at 600mm to allow a decent trapdoor size then floored the roof space for additional storage.
A 400mm shelf all round the wall about 400mm below the ceiling allows the use of loads of plastic storage boxes for all those stripped off parts. keeps them off the floor too!
Another point. if you're starting from scratch you simply can't have too many electric sockets and lights. I used double sockets, mounted in pairs spaced at 1.2 metres all around the walls and even then I sometimes had to use a multi extension cable!
Bobexcellant description , at my work we do have a lack of power points in the right position, with a extension , then air lines then your toolbox and jacks , then weldercables in the way plus what your working on is can get messy and am a really tidy worker
, i know in a perfect world ud have it all ie roof winch system and a really big desk , i work as a apprentice agricultural engineer and ive just built a big desk 4ft by 8ft and it makes a hell of a difference!and lighting also u need alot of it
-
If you're building it for road use too, then think very carefully about budgets as it will cost a great deal more than you anticipate - enough to perhaps buy a decent 90 or 110.
Mo
didnt see 4x4 is born i was 17 a couple years ago lol
might get the dvds but not really the info i would imagine i would need , and i have a 110 decent the now done alot of work to it , have a coupke grand + plus a book at work so i want a wee toy project
-
Maybe easier to start with a Discovery or RR chassis, rather than cut down/reweld a 110 chassis, 90/110 body panels can be used/modded as required to make them fit.
i was thinking of getting a r/r chassie and build up the running gear , then do the body work at the later stage , just really looking for any info ?
-
just a wee picture of work
-
am looking to make a 100" or consider really the advantages of doing it although i cant really find much info on how to do and , and contacts for parts etc ?
-
have it wide enough to work at the side of a veichle nothing worst than being cramped againest a wall
-
Save the money and play dump valve sounds on your stereo - that's all this guy is doing it for.
There is absolutely no point what so ever to fitting a dump valve to a diesel engine.
i always think that they sound like their "farting" in a diesel they never sound right
-
That's true - and it was a Halfords Professional spanner that I was using. I think that the problem here is twofold - one: they make these nuts out of chocolate, and Two: with them being hollow, the crush effect of the spanner has little to resist it.
I wonder if the fact that I was using a wall-drive socket was counter productive here - do wall-drives impart more crush per torque than normal sockets?
TS
wall drive just does what it say it works of the wall instead of the corners like most even try the opened end but i use my snap on brake pipe spanners which are open end but slightly thicker and has a longer leverage allowing u to keep equal progressive pressure on it and i have had no bother with even the worst
-
basically its leaks where it goes into the t pieace , do u think ptfe will do it even liquid ptfe ?
-
From my flexi hose at the t-pieace on my 110 with brake discs on the back i have a leak , had to renew them all for the mot , at the flare at the rear pipe running along the chassis , need a male taper and the brass t pieace needs a male if i can remember rightly but the hose is male one end and female the other , what am i doing wrong i havent had time to have a proper look but doesn anyone have any advice ?
-
this part , borrowed picture from hybrid from hell
-
Am looking to get the rear 3 way pieace for the brake lines which sits ontop of the diff , does anyone know the part number or where to order them from ?
200tdi 110 with disk brakes on the back if that help ? thanks
-
ive got the front axle fill level housing to do on my 110 200tdi , do u think i should remove the axle of os it easy enough to do inplace , am just trying to judge the best way to do it ,and is it easy enough to weld the top of it with it in place ?
-
Successfully fitted side steps today - don't give you much room with the fuel tank do they!
Anyway I also got some rear (behind towbar) steps from Paddocks. I have got an adjustable towbar - towball on big sold slider which goes onto a sort of ladder thing. I am sure it has a name - looks as if it is probably the Dixon Bate slide adjustable one
My question is which set of bolts do I use to attach the steps?
There are four big bolts on the upper cross piece of the ladder attaching it to the cross member and two smaller bolts at the bottom attaching it to arms that go back to the chassis. All look as if they might be a swine to get off, so was hoping for a clue as to where to start.
Any pointers greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Malcy
if u have a heat source availible it would make the job a doodle , and a half inch breaker/master bar , just heat the nut/bolt and it should be easy if not u'll need to grind them off which isnt very nice to do
-
Crank it right up and practise at a higer power and wire speed then slowly bring it down , at work am ok mig welder but not at stick but i was showing to do it this way and u start to get a feel for it
-
Well yes the threaded hole is for removing the drum. Not sure why Les doesn't want you to use it. Should be 8 mm IIRC. IME, using the threaded hole is the normal way to remove drums. They get a groove in them and the shoes can stick on them.
Thread bolt into hole, tension a bit. Then wack drum with hammer. Repeat. It'll come.
i use the technique with a puller to get them off but on only quads , would does it do to them am just being nosey les ?
-
Has anyone ever been able to get the caps out by "tapping" the yolks with a hammer? I keep seeing this method quoted in instruction books etc etc and I don't know anyone who's ever managed it
I've been changing UJs for nearly 20 years on various vehicles I've owned and it's never worked -- always pushed the caps out with sockets.
I was shown for making p.t.o at work after u have pushed the uj back in to free it off to allow it to rotate freely u just give it a small tap with a hammer and it "sets" them in
-
Suppose that would work, having served an apprentaship in agricultural enginering I just had to bite the bullet and by kit in metric and imperial though!
am actually serving my time as a agricultural engineer and i need both going upto very large sizes
: Is there really any difference between standard wheels and alloy ones? 
Bob
Extreme heavy rear suspension
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
our td5 disco commercial has airbag on the rear and they have been used alot towing 3 tonne trailers and they work very well too