BogMonster
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Posts posted by BogMonster
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On 5/18/2021 at 3:19 AM, RedLineMike said:
i can bet that they were the owners of hi vis, camo jacket, rigger boots & a popcorn & smoke map
I'm confused ... do they want to be seen, or not?
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I always thought a 90 looked right on 265/75R16 - here's my old one, some way from the nearest Tesco
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I don't think there are many D Sport owners on here to be honest. Sorry - I don't know anything about them!
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3 hours ago, Landrovernuts said:
I had one of these bulbs in my TD5 and it produced really good light. No issues with it rotating but it did need the tangs bending out to fit as pointed out above. After about 6 months it started flicking and only coming on very dim - may be something to do with the TD5 fading the light power rather than switching straight off which is something not all LED bulbs tolerate very well. I am back with the filament candle at the minute!
I should have known better - it did come in a blue box....
Interesting, thanks. Hadn't thought of the dim-to-off bit, the Puma is the same. I guess the tangs need bending for the larger ones so 36mm is maybe the right size.
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I wondered if the ones that only radiate light in one direction would spin around in the fitting with road vibration?
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OK thanks, hadn't found that but it's a whole light and more expensive than Mud, I just want bulbs. Ebay cheapies seem to be "you get what you pay for" as is often the case, so I think unless there's a firm rec, it's a toss up between the Nak ones or perhaps these :
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I've just put a MUD interior LED into my Puma and am pleased with it, but we've got three vehicles and buying another five of them is a bit spendy!
Has anybody got a recent link to any of the LED replacement bulbs to fit into a standard Defender interior light fitting that they could recommend from having bought one recently? I'm not even sure from an Ebay search what the size is - quoted in different places as being 36mm, 38mm, 39mm and 42mm among others! Nakatenanga appear to do a decent looking one (and call it 38mm) but don't post to this part of the world and I don't see them sold in the UK.
Recommendations from direct experience please?
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1 hour ago, HoSS said:
Ultra is greater than Hyper. From the Greek Super and Hyper mean 'above' whereas Ultra means 'extreme'
'Ultra Naranja' then
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They are quite popular here but I don't particularly like them as in my view they are not that good at anything - clunky as hell with a NATO ring, fiddly with a 50mm ball and less solid than a NATO with a rope or chain on. Jack of all trades but master of none, which is fine if that is what you want.
I've got a dual arrangement on both my 110s with a NATO on the crossmember for off road towing (and if I use the Sankey though if I did it would probably fall to bits now!) and a combi ball/jaw on a removable Southdown hitch (300Tdi) and Terrafirma receiver hitch (Puma). The other vehicles just have a combi hitch on their standard height towing point so I can tow my boat (ring hitch on an unbraked trailer) and Ifor tipper (standard 50mm ball).
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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:
^ This.
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Soft hoses ballooning under the pressure?
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Bbbbut it has Terrain Response.
Bong bong <fzzzzt>
Looks like some sort of washout or maybe quicksand. Any vehicle that deep in salt water is scrap, and even the scrap isn't worth much.
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On 4/22/2021 at 1:09 PM, Alsace_rangie said:
Any comparison with other tyres? I have no idea how KL71's performed, were they OK for an MT? If the MT51's are only slightly better than a normal MT on wet roads, then that is not too good in overall terms! Any experience in light snow? I assume you get some in the Peak District 😀
Have used KL71s off road and on gravel roads and I was never impressed. They were OK when brand new but rapidly deteriorated and were in no way comparable in performance to the BFG MTs in deep mud or slippery conditions. My wife (who does off road tours, or did when there used to be a tourist industry) commented how much different the vehicle was when we put BFGs on all the 110s - the KL71s would spin and spray mud everywhere where the BFGs just plough through.
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Dammit, that is one of the best all-round suppliers there is and very good sending overseas. Peter Lamb is really helpful - such a contrast to some of the arrogant "I don't have time to look at my emails" types that I've come across who seem to think they are doing a favour by taking your money!
First Four will be very much missed.
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54 minutes ago, Alhedward said:
Note to moderator:
Why the moderation if not to check accuracy of posted information?
97 300tdi rebuilds and counting.
The same reason as most forums, to prevent blatant spam and trim up people who turn up with an attitude.
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If it's a vehicle sold here then I would have thought it had one originally so the wiring etc is probably there. Can't imagine why it would have been taken off though the FIDF had some odd ideas about reverse lights at one point, if they ever had it.
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...and the answer is at least 12 weeks delivery time (excluding the shipping here) so that's out.
Any other recommendations please? Most suppliers seem to default to the Britpart items
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3 hours ago, Landy7 said:
I have them from Exmoor Trim, comfort is excellent and I think the base plate is made from a thicker steel as well..
Thanks. Unfortunately no info on availability and a vague warning on their website of up to lots of weeks delivery. I've emailed them to query it....
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I've found out the hard way that fitting Mud seat rails has a drawback: lifting the whole seat means that the front seat squab is no longer supported by the battery box and this means that if, like me, you might be partial to the odd snack, with time and crashing about off road it breaks where the base plate is welded into the front of the seat and the cushion collapses. With the standard design it doesn't quite touch when the seat is empty but if the seat base deforms under heavy load then some of the strain is taken up by the cover on the top of the battery box.
So I got some new ones which came branded Britpart, and which lasted even less time than the original genuine seats. I also found the cushions less supportive than the originals, and less comfortable.
I have now invented a solution to the problem to support the base of the seat squab, but I need to get a pair of new front squabs. I suppose Genuine ones will be stupidly expensive and quite possibly no longer available, Britpart-branded ones only last three months, so I wondered what the other options were and if anybody had bought anything they were pleased with the quality of?
Needs to be Techno cloth and suitable for a 2006 model year vehicle (though I think they are all interchangeable).
Thanks.
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Yes if it has the spigot on the transfer box then the internals should be there. I forget now which vehicles had the CDL fitted and which did not. I don't think the lever from a D1 will fit straight on though - I seem to recall that the mechanism is cable-operated in the D2, but there is a kit available to fit it:
https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/miscellaneous/disco-ii-difflock.html
One kit is just to add the lever to a t/box that already has difflock, the other is to mod the t/box as well.
The non CDL Discovery 2 is rubbish in those sort of conditions and if it's operating continuously, after a while the ABS system overheats and it all shuts down anyway....
Couple of useful videos on the Ashcroft site too, one showing the difference with and without!
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I don't have a D4 workshop manual but the earlier ones state the following for OAT:
Anti-freeze solutions
The overall anti-freeze concentration should not fall,
by volume, below 50% to ensure that the anti-corrosion
properties of the coolant are maintained.
Anti-freeze concentrations greater than 60% are not
recommended as cooling efficiency will be impaired.
Use Havoline Extended Life Coolant (XLC), or any
ethylene glycol based anti-freeze (containing no
methanol) with only Organic Acid Technology (OAT)
corrosion inhibitors, to protect the cooling system.
CAUTION: No other anti-freeze should be used
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The pedal has (depending on age) either two or three 'driver demand' potentiometers. The ECU checks these against each other (largely a safety net that means you don't get a failure which gives you 100% throttle... an electronic spring on the injector pump if you like) so if there is a mismatch then it won't rev. You need a diagnostic to get a live readout of the pedal track outputs and check for driver demand faults. It is most likely to be the pedal but not always. Make sure you get the right sort of pedal (part number off the pedal assy) if you are ordering one.
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Depending on the configuration of the site and the building if you can put the doors in the ends then headroom for roller doors is less of a problem. My doors are 3m x 2.8m to fit the boat in and I was over-cautious on headroom inside because of the sloped approach and the boat A frame but there ended up being plenty of room. Don't forget it doesn't cost much to make a building a bit higher because mostly it's fresh air, the materials cost of making the walls a foot higher is very little. That's looking from the perspective of having built a timber framed garage but it should translate (more or less) into a constructed building as well as it is no more effort to build or erect a 3.5m high wall than it is to erect a 3m high wall.
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21 hours ago, smallfry said:
I had an insurance claim against me about 15 years ago for helping someone whose car was blocking a junction. I towed them clear, but despite my warnings that the brakes would have no power assistance, the guy still ran into the back of the Land Rover, breaking the grille and denting the bumper and bonnet.
I will not tow anyone now unless I know them.
Normally if somebody runs into you then it's their fault, so how did that logic work?
bad press
in International Forum
Posted
Coffee/keyboard
