BogMonster
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Posts posted by BogMonster
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I've got a Southdown too, but they aren't made any more as far as I can tell. I ended up getting a Terrafirma receiver hitch for the Puma, which is effectively a similar arrangement except one pin rather than two (and a lot easier to fit and take off the attached tow point, mine is a tow ball on a drop plate so it only goes on when I am using it).
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Weird - the time has changed on the original post so they are now in the wrong order!
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If it is a 1993 model then it will be a 200Tdi engine and the dash is completely different. I don't know if the Discovery 2 and the late D1 (1995-98 model year) dashes are interchangeable, they were visually very similar or maybe even the same, but I'd be surprised if they were identical in how they fitted into the body. Post up some photos if you can and we can have a look, but I think it may be very difficult.
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On 2/10/2020 at 4:45 PM, Soren Frimodt said:
Yes indeed, the spring washers have a tendency to go flat, Ashcroft send me new ones FOC as well which is good service, but I must say it soon got weak again, I did drive the car to work and back everyday though (about 90km in all)
So what is the effect of these spring washers going flat? Does it lose the ATB effect? Lose the preload that gives some drive when one wheel is airborne? Or something else?
Mine are fitted in the 300Tdi 110 which does low mileage anyway, so it may not be an issue. I have not done a lot with them but the difference in normal off road use is very noticeable to standard open diffs. In places where you'd scrabble and spin a bit, it just goes up with no fuss. Good long trip coming up on the weekend which will be interesting.
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I think the BCU and something else have to be synchronised, sounds like they may not be after you removed it. Can't recall the process now but it is probably in the RAVE manuals. It may require a diagnostic computer.
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Sticky locks are certainly very common on older vehicles. I'm not sure if there is a cure apart from a new one, but I am sure somebody will be along presently if there is.
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On 1/9/2020 at 6:54 AM, RedLineMike said:
id suspect the belt is routed incorrectly, been here before
Ditto - so have I
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I wouldn't be without a recip saw but don't use it that often. When I do it's used for anything from cutting down beef and lamb carcasses, cutting holes in walls or through flooring in the house renovations, or trimming trees, but rarely in the garage! It just does loads of things that are useful. I bought a cheapish corded Erbauer for < £50 which has lasted me about six or seven years I think, and has been full of beef fat, sawdust, tree sap and probably a bit of water and WD40 during the cleaning up but works fine.
An air hacksaw might be an alternative.
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Hell those are expensive now, I ordered a 200pc limited edition Halfords one in the Black Friday deals and it was £135! They usually have special offers, I guess just not at the moment, so would delay until the next offer if you can...
I've got 3 old Draper socket sets in 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drive and have had for about 15 years, not even broken anything, the only problem is that the carry boxes fall to bits (hinges and closing latches break) - hence the Halfords set I've ordered to have a mobile set.
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8 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
All these EV conversions make me at least as nervous as LPG conversions - an EV battery pack contains thousands of cells and needs VERY careful charging, balancing, heating, cooling, monitoring and protection to keep it not-on-fire, and just plugging random bits of EV and 3rd party BMS, chargers, etc. together gives me the heebies.
Should be good with big Li-Ion batteries
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I wouldn't use anything other than a genuine swivel, despite the horrendous price. Loads of cheap ones have failed on the rough roads here, and I know somebody who had both snap off at the same time, fortunately off-road!
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On 12/31/2019 at 3:11 PM, steve b said:
Not in my opinion , there is no way any fabrication could possibly come anywhere near the factory item . These things encapsulate the risk of so-called upgrades with highly safety critical parts . They should be regulated out of production , utter carp .
cheers
Steve b
I agree. I looked at these a number of years ago and decided I would put up with having slightly odd steering.
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19 hours ago, smallfry said:
He stated that its a Disco 1 ……. 1998
As regards a fix, I have no idea. However, as it will be a distributor and Hotwire engine, should be easy to bypass in order to get it running.
Not if it is a NAS vehicle!! The later NAS spec vehicles had a GEMS system that was essentially the same as the Range Rover of the day.
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The UK/ROW V8 models have a spider (I discovered it and wrote the post on the tech archive forum - mine was a 3.9 V8) but as far as I know the NAS models do not - the OP doesn't specify what his vehicle is but given his location is Kansas I assume that's US and thus a NAS model. The late NAS vehicles used the 4.0 and 4.6 Range Rover engines I think, so probably the associated engine management system and probably a completely different immob setup. I know nothing about them except for that.
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Or buy an L200 and get permanent 4x4 for pickup money
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10 hours ago, Snagger said:
Sounds like an Airbus. Engineers thinking their computers are way smarter than the operator and that their systems never get it wrong... Why no three way switch, with open, locked and automatic?
Don't you mean Boeing.................
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13 hours ago, Ed Poore said:
Equally I think it was Si that mentioned the more modern Land Rovers have torque sensing diffs in them which means that broken half shafts are a thing of the past because it'll kill the power to the engine / wheel in order to save it.
Old ones have torque sensing diffsas well, the alarm sounds like a loud bang and a hole in the axle
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23 hours ago, Matt2e0fgx said:
Yes I can find them but defently not cheap at all!
In the handbook I found a chart saying on standard suspension the max with no lift is 255 70 r16 .
I've found plenty at 245 70 r16 . Guessing that would be ok ?
BFGs were never cheap and there were few other options in that size IIRC.
245/70R16 or 245/75R16 are both fine. The 245/75 may be the better option, a bit more clearance, and it'll still just fit on a standard rear door spare wheel carrier.
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You should be able to find BFG MT or AT in 255/70R16. I used to run ATs in that size on my Discovery 2 and they were perfect. MTs were definitely available in the same size, so I imagine they still are.
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55 minutes ago, elbekko said:
A good way to do it would be to just press the TR button for 5 seconds, it goes into manual mode, and a screen pops up where you can manually engage/disengage lockers, set throttle sensitivity, ...
Absolutely agree with that and all the earlier comments about how all automatic systems are reactive. The one thing they all lack is a pair of eyes and the ability to make judgements ahead of arrival. The other thing they all (or nearly all) rely heavily on is putting the brakes on a lot, and that's a very finite resource if you are working a vehicle hard off-road, as well as being not what you want in quite a lot of situations.
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9 hours ago, landroversforever said:
And even more impressive to your average punter who hasn’t ever done anything off-road before.
That's the point of all those off-road courses, make it a bit sideways and tippy for somebody who has never been in a vehicle on anything more than a steep driveway so that they go "ooh that's amazing", then throw in some mud, and then get their chequebook out. Most people in the world have no idea what proper off-road driving is like and it always amuses me here when somebody turns up saying they've driven off-road. A few have, but most go quiet after a bit ... I remember taking some tourists to a popular wildlife destination a few years ago and one of them said after about an hour "is the track this bad all the way or does it get better" ... at which point I had to break the news we were, in fact, still on what we call 'the road', and 'the track' hadn't started yet
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Turned out that the nozzles were just a bit bunged up, a good rummage around with the point of a needle and sorting out the alignment of them seems to have restored a reasonable amount of washiness 💧
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Could do I suppose. Without having one to look at, I am not sure if an aircon tensioner would work on this setup, but it might. The current system has worked well since about 2003 and is now on its third vehicle, with this being the first problem in all that time, so I will probably leave it be.
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6 hours ago, Ed Poore said:
What about disconnecting the pipe from the pump first to see if you can get an indication of the pressure and flow rate it's putting out first?
If that seems reasonable then it might be your pipes need cleaning out - maybe an airline up them might help blow stuff out (might want to do backwards).
I've been contemplating adapting headlight washer pumps for mine, not got around to it yet though.
Yes ... doing it to the inside could be messy...
I have thought for some time that a Discovery headlight washer pump would be awesome as a screen wash pump, but not looked at the feasibility of it.
300tdi rough and lumpy
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Check for water ingress. They have a habit of breathing in water giving a wet air filter which makes the dust in it turn to mud, blocking the intake. Some snorkels (Safari for example) can still let water in during a big splash.
Other than that, the items suggested & if the filter has been wet, a compression test to see if the water got that far....