BogMonster
-
Posts
10,920 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
23
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by BogMonster
-
-
Could do I suppose. Without having one to look at, I am not sure if an aircon tensioner would work on this setup, but it might. The current system has worked well since about 2003 and is now on its third vehicle, with this being the first problem in all that time, so I will probably leave it be.
-
6 hours ago, Ed Poore said:
What about disconnecting the pipe from the pump first to see if you can get an indication of the pressure and flow rate it's putting out first?
If that seems reasonable then it might be your pipes need cleaning out - maybe an airline up them might help blow stuff out (might want to do backwards).
I've been contemplating adapting headlight washer pumps for mine, not got around to it yet though.
Yes ... doing it to the inside could be messy...
I have thought for some time that a Discovery headlight washer pump would be awesome as a screen wash pump, but not looked at the feasibility of it.
-
The Milemarker pump has a different arrangement to aircon. There is no idler or tensioner - the belt goes from the fan pulley straight up to the pump pulley, and nothing else - tension on the belt is set and adjusted by a tensioner bolt on the pump which jacks up one end of it slightly.
-
The best batteries from the factory were the ones they used to fit in the early 2000s, for Td5 Defenders I think they used Genuine Parts number YGD100860. I can't remember for sure what the branding was (I think it was Delphi) but they had tonnes of cold cranking grunt, 110Ah capacity and lasted for years. I sold my V8 Discovery at 13 years old with the original Delphi battery still in it. The current ones are nowhere near as good, I bought a Genuine battery under the same number a few years ago which IIRC is a Varta under the skin, and it doesn't hold its charge particularly well.
-
Thanks, that's miles too long then. I have tightened it but I think the grooves are probably worn as it still slips a bit if you stall the winch in high. New one should be here in a few weeks so it'll do until then
-
Driving the two vehicles (2015 Puma and 2006 Tdi) the other day in the rain, I realised how much the performance of the old one's washer system has deteriorated (unless the Puma has an upgraded pump - but it's miles better at covering the screen).
I don't want to spend a million quid on an Optimill system but what options are out there that are worthwhile and sensibly priced? I have wondered about simply drilling the jets out slightly to get better water flow (I think they are probably scaled up a bit inside - either that or the original washer pump is getting tired).
Thoughts please? Has anybody tried running a very small drill through the existing jets?
-
On 12/5/2019 at 4:18 PM, SteveG said:
Maybe this is what they meant by off road Mo...
Â
What a load of marketing toss.
Most of our roads are worse than that in the winter time....
-
Yuasa batteries are excellent in my experience and last for years in other applications. I've never tried one in a Defender but I am about to change that
-
Thanks. Have ordered one off eBay but with Christmas post it probably won't get here before the holidays, so if it is the same as a 300 aircon belt then I might find one locally.
-
Months later the pull had deteriorated to a low level and I discovered slightly by accident that it's because the belt has stretched and the pump is stalling under high load. And the spare belt I bought with it in 2003 or thereabouts seems to have drifted off in the meantime....
From the installation photos (writing long gone from the belt itself) it is a Dayco 4PK0830 i.e. 4 grooves and 830mm.
Does anybody happen to have a 300Tdi with aircon fitted, and if you could, please could you look on the belt and tell me what the spec is? It will be a 4PK something to fit the pulley on the engine, just wondering how long they are ... no way I am going to be that lucky
-
They are supposed to be different between 99-01 and 02-04 model years, but to be honest I don't know what the differences are and whether an early ECU will run with late injectors (or vice versa) I really don't know.
The injector grading is fine-tuning, so it probably depends on whether you're a perfectionist or whether you're happy with something that just runs.
-
2 hours ago, Snagger said:
And yet the preceding and new Wranglers get EU approval (albeit with low NCAP scores).  Same for the emissions claim - the Transit still passes legislation with that engine.  There was no legal reason to end the old Defender - they’re lying about that.  It was a commercial decision, nothing more.
That was always my assumption. Even if the engines have changed completely there is no reason why a current model pickup or van could not be adapted fairly easily. The Ranger is in any case still being sold with a "2.2 TDCI" engine which appears to be the same unit, though I believe the UK versions use adgoo now.
-
1
-
-
Largely mirrors my experience over the years - and on a dry (if steep) trail. The D2 has the basic ingredients but the ETC system is sluggish (you do need that CDL - mine didn't have it and was hopeless) and suspension travel is limited a bit by anti roll bars, but ultimately it's still proper LR underneath.
I don't think the HDC was working but to be honest it's usually miles too fast anyway - they never did develop the system it should have been, which would have been a dial to choose the descent speed.
D3 - demonstrating just one real-world situation in which the 'compensatory gizmos' manage to get the same task done but still don't really equate to the same ability, which is hard to explain but easy to see. It will get there most of the time but generally makes a whole lot of fuss doing it. I hadn't previously considered the complete lack of articulation in extended mode, but I suppose that's inevitable.
A good video.
-
17 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:
As an aside, I had a Quaife in the front axle of my old RRC and a TrueTrac in the rear. It was a good set up.
The only issue I had was, when driving fast in the RR, there is a technique taught in defensive drive techniques (with Disco/RRC/Defender/series/100 series) of using the lift of the inside front wheel to 'spin off' the power to a point where the vehicle settles back on to all four wheels. This allows a 'slingshot' out of tight bends etc.With LSD's etc this gets quite interesting and can involve the smell of adrenaline filling the vehicle
Â
Brown, lumpy adrenaline?
-
1
-
-
10 hours ago, Chicken Drumstick said:
The Detroit locker is in a way misnamed. It is really an automatic unlocker. i.e. it is locked, just as per any other locking diff. But under certain conditions will unlock to allow different wheel speeds on the axle. However for this to occur you probably need traction greater than that of gravel. I'm also inclined to suggest that a RWD vehicle, such as a Series or most American pickups/4x4's would work better in such a situation, as instead of understeer on gravel, you end up with both rear wheels spinning and the ability to drive in a powerslide drift. With the AWD setup of a Discovery/Defender it'll be pushing some of that power to the front and likely to induce far more understeer, as it'll be a lot harder to get the back to step out (not impossible, but will need a more aggressive driving style with a flick of the steering, rather than just pushing the loud pedal).
I'm also inclined to suggest a Detroit probably works better on heavier and longer wheel base vehicles, than it would on a shorter wheelbase lighter vehicle. A Discovery is sort of middling length wheel to short. Although this is only a hunch, I don't have any data to back up this thought.
Yes I agree with all that.
The other reason I wouldn't have one is that in mechanical terms it's just a bloody bodge up. "We welded the axle up but then remember that occasionally it needs to go around corners, so added a freewheel bit as an afterthought".
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, deep said:
The Detroit is very popular but a friend has one in his alleged 90 and it can be a vicious beast in some circumstances, as it throws the car around quite violently when it "bites" in slippery going. Â Basically, it just wants to go straight, like any locker, but that is not always predictable. Â I think I'd still have one though, because I don't do intense off-roading of that type.
(Edit) Just as an aside, he put the Detroit locker in the rear Salisbury (the "90" is a cut-down 110) and a Tru Trac in the front, something like twenty years ago. Â As far as I know, they've proven to be very robust and durable.
It's hearsay, but once upon a time there was a chap here with a Detroit in the back of a Discovery Tdi, and I was told that he took it out because it had a very nasty habit of making the vehicle go straight on when you got to a corner on a gravel road. Most of the roads here are gravel outside the town.
-
1
-
-
21 hours ago, Snagger said:
You can replace the axle and prop with the 2002+ type and fit the Ashcroft, but that axle has more pinion issues than the Salisbury because the pinion is so short that the bearings have a hard time keeping it straight, or you can go with a Trutrac or Quaife.  The cheapest I have seen the Trutrac is at the LR Centre at Speke, Liverpool.  The Quaife is better, but almost twice the price (around £1k inclusive, plus bearings and any labour).  I have a Salisbury axle on my 109 and will fit one of these (myself), hopefully the Quaife if possible at the time.
...or you can order a pegged P38 diff from @Hybrid_From_Hell which solves that problem
-
Correct, my Tdi is a 2006 model year, I bought it just before the Puma came out in case I didn't like the Puma. So it has the late axle fitted to all post 2002 vehicles.
Coincidentally I also bought a late Puma in case I didn't like the next version ... which proved to be a much better judgement
-
2
-
1
-
-
16 hours ago, deep said:
I find this ironic. Â For decades people referred to Land Rovers as being put together like a Meccano set. Â Now the new Defender comes out in a plastic kit, which is hugely complicated. Â With road tyres...
Was Meccano ... now Airfix
-
1
-
-
Thanks, that's what I thought. I think it'll get put in the wife's 110 with std shafts, as I now have a pair of spare original shafts anyway. Might stop some of the grumbling that I've got the toys while she is the one that drives off road the most
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, Anderzander said:
I have an ATB in the back of mine and I love it - totally forget its there and then I find it’s working 🙂
Did you go for the shafts as well or are you running standard? I have a spare ATB centre and now a spare rear diff, but I don't really want to fork out for another full set of bits for the other vehicle.
-
8 hours ago, Happyoldgit said:
Is twatalogical the science of tightness too?
Only behind closed doors
-
4 hours ago, Mo Murphy said:
What is tautological? The science of tightness ?
Mo
Typo, he meant twatalogical
-
1
-
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Finally ... all done! I splashed out in the end, because it's the vehicle I use for 'going where nobody has been for a long time' trips, which if something broke would generally involve a very long walk. It (my trusty 300Tdi) has also still only got 35,000 miles from new, so I decided it was worth investing. Final shopping list ended up being two ATBs, a full set of Ashcroft CVs, shafts and drive members, and after a bit of thought and "what the hell" I ordered a fully built up and pegged P38 rear diff (with an ATB in) from that Mr Barker that pops up on here occasionally. The front was the original 2 pin diff fitted to the vehicle when new, which had broken its 2 pin centre years ago, that was dragged out from under the bench, polished up and I fitted the new ATB centre. Because it's easier in a proper workshop, I wanted them fitted, and I don't have a lot of tinker time, the whole lot was then fitted at a garage a few weeks back.
First impressions - the diffs haven't really been tested in anger yet but I like them. Steering effect is 'noticeable' but just different - and may loosen up with a bit of use. I've just come back from a 300 mile or so trip, most of which was gravel roads and off road, and you just adapt to driving it like you adapt to driving a vehicle with raised suspension where the steering doesn't quite feel the same, and very quickly you don't even think about it except when you get in from another vehicle.
Off road, I haven't tried them in very tough conditions yet but faffing around on steep, loose or undulating slopes, the difference with the ATB is considerable. With diff lock in, it just goes up. Diff lock out, on the sort of grassy incline that would spin a front wheel out almost immediately on a standard vehicle, it still goes up. If you provoke it, the fronts will break traction but they'll work at it, and it almost feels like traction control trying to stop the wheels spinning. Any sort of slope where there is loose rock or undulations that would set off a front wheel spinning (usually followed by the opposite rear) - no problems. Sometimes you hear a slight gear noise (which I assume is the diff centre working) but it carries on with almost no wheelspin at all. I haven't figured out how much differential wheel speed is needed to activate the diff centre but it would appear very little - you never get aggressive wheelspin of the sort that you need to activate ETC for example. Cresting a cross-axle, the sort of thing where opposite corners would unload and spin out, it just doesn't. It's all rather like just having Velcro on the tyres.
So far - I like them a lot, and especially because they're always there and working. It definitely looks like the right choice for 'real world off road use' - I suspect it wouldn't be for trials/competition where half the day is spent with wheels off the ground and a full locker would be superior. Now, an ATB with a full locker also built in ... would go in my Ibex one day
After the late decision on the rear diff, I also now have a spare ATB, and just need to decide what to put it in
-
6
Washer jets
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Turned out that the nozzles were just a bit bunged up, a good rummage around with the point of a needle and sorting out the alignment of them seems to have restored a reasonable amount of washiness 💧