BogMonster
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Posts posted by BogMonster
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Had a very similar thing on one of the 110s at work the other day. Prepared for the ££££ of a new steering box and it turned out it was just the steering damper was sticking/seizing - you would go round a corner, go to straighten up and suddenly find the self centreing disappeared which led to some "F!!!" moments as the vehicle attempted to climb the kerb and mow down any nearby buildings
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Looks like another hideous silly-wheeled concept to me, a bit "Judge Dredd's taxi"
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I went to Croatia last Christmas in my 1991 Discovery which has now covered around 350,000 KM's (it's Australian hence the KM)
Didn't you get a bit wet going from Australia to Croatia?
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Ok than Bogbuster, lets have a peacefull 2006 with lowresolution avatar pics.
What do you think of this one?
Daan
First class - thank you
And happy Christmas too
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Heater plugs would be my guess. The 300Tdi engines start fairly well with blown heater plugs for most of the year but once it gets down towards freezing, they will start in the mornings but as yours is doing, they take a few seconds of cranking and then come to life with a bit of juddering and farting and often a fair bit of smoke (from the unburned fuel when cranking over).
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Picture of D44 stainless one here
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Anyway, lets cut the carp shall we?
Good idea. You could start with that 2.5MB avatar so that those of us on dialup don't have to F download it!!!!!!
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1996 Disco on 36"x12.5-15 Simex ET I
Really? Pictures?
Can't help with the question tho...
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I've got alloy because it looks prettier
something about milled alloy that is just ... ooh ... excuse me I have to go to the lavatory
Aaah that's better
Also I seem to remember the stainless ones are about twice the price and as far as I could see the only real advantage was that they don't wear as quick in high angle pulls, which are not the sort of pulls I do (not a mark on mine from the rope, so far) most of my winching is pretty much straight ahead.
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Well poo to you with nobs on then 02
I call the skin on the outside of my wires, "insulation" 
anyway this is all getting a bit tetchnickel for me
One way you could do a basic check would be to put a vacuum gauge on plumbed in immediately on the upstream side of the throttle plate. You could measure a stock engine's vacuum depression at high throttle openings (which will give the pressure loss through the intake system), and then easily measure the change with any particular design of snorkel, which would be a pretty good indication of how much air was being strangled from the engine I would think? You could easily F around with the design then until you minimised the pressure loss.
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I forgot the single most essential thing. And this is serious in case anybody thinks otherwise.
Bog roll....
It is bad enough having to dig a hole and sh&& behind a grass bog, without then having to try and wipe with a handful of grass as well....
I always keep one in the 90, sealed in a poly bag for emergencies!
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I can't do any sums to back it up (forgot the content of my fiziks A level years ago) but I think pressure drop in a pipe due to internal friction etc probably follows much the same theory as voltage drop in a wire. So a short length of 3" tube will have a certain pressure drop, make it 10x the length and it probably increases quite a bit, though whether 10x or not I don't know.
So in the same way as you can shove 240V down a wire through up to about a mile or so, if you try and do it for 10 miles there's a lot missing at the other end. In the electrical model you can increase the wire thickness (reduce resistance) and/or bump up the voltage (a bit like increasing turbo boost) but in a naturally aspirated engine all you can do is minimise the losses, i.e. make it a bigger pipe (less resistance per unit length) to try and get as much as possible of what goes in, out the other end without a pressure drop.
An extreme example would be to make an engine like a 400KV power line - in theory you could feed Nigel's Eales through a drinking straw if you put about 100 bar boost on the end, though the turbo lag might be a bit epic
Oooer that nearly sounded as if I knew what i was talking about
now I need to go and sit down 
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285s will be fine on a 7" rim and anyway 16" rims that are more than 7" wide are like hens teeth unless you go for expensive ones like Mach 5s which I guess you could probably get made as 8x16? - the only other one I know of offhand are the 8.5x16 Compomotive AT alloys and some of the Discovery 2 alloys which are no good to you anyway.
I run 265/75R16 on Freestyle alloys most of the time and they touch the radius arms (just) on full lock (the vehicle was originally fitted with 205s). However, until I lifted the suspension, as I already said they also touched the top of the wheelboxes in the back on full articulation (wheels off ground kind of full artic) so 35" would hit the wheelboxes an inch and a half sooner....can't see how offset will help you here though! 265/75R16 are about a 32x10.50R16 in the old money.
Having seen Simexes the tread width looks to me to be bigger than most "normal" 10.50s (the 10.50 is of course section width not tread width, tread width of a normal 10.50 is only about 8-9" IIRC) though I never got around to measuring them.
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I will be making it out odf steel, so ta but no ta. (thought 5mm wall so its strong)
PMSL!
I had thought of the revs thing but in practice how often do you rev a V8 over 4000rpm in normal use? I find if I'm in a big F hurry keeping the Disco between 3000 and 4000 it goes like &&&& off a shovel, over about 4500 all you really get is more noise so I don't bother. Also I think V8s sound best as they pass through about 3500 with foot nailed to the floor
Another thought: because the cross sectional area of a pipe increases as the square of its radius, a 3.5" pipe is actually 36% bigger in x-s than a 3" pipe - so you can have a useful increase without having to look like an oil rig!
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So if you break a halfshaft at all, the whole wheel comes off? Where is the C-clip retaining the whole lot - inside the diff? (I'm not familiar with the design)
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Ooooh
As it happens I have just started loading things up for Christmas
Jackall
2 x alloy bridge/jacking boards
10 metre 24mm nylon tow rope
Milemarker on the front with 10mm Dyneema and a wireless remote (need that to plough in the Kittygripper when alone)
T-Max hand winch for rearward/upside down/any other unclassified disaster recovery
KittyGripper plough ground anchor
Tube and pin military ground anchor
Winch extension line (Dyneema)
About a dozen shackles of different sizes, mostly proper rated ones
Snatch block
Hook chain
Master ring (allows a winch hook to go onto a NATO hitch etc)
Big F off wheelbrace
Extra spare wheel
Torch
Ibuprofen (nothing worse than trying to unstick yourself with a stinking headache)
VHF radio in the vehicle, and often a handheld one too
Wellies
Waterproof coat
Spade
Sledgehammer for ground anchor pins
3 x cases of beer and 1 x case of wine
Toolbox with screwdrivers, adjustables, mole grips, propshaft tool, cable ties, duct tape, insulating tape, crimp connectors, a few bits of wire, pliers, chocolate block connectors
1/2" square drive socket set
Spares I have just packed up for this trip include:
5L engine oil
Fuel filter
Wheel bearing kit
Propshaft UJ's
Rear shocker bushes (the new ones have an irritating habit of wearing out rather suddenly!)
Tubeless tyre repair plugs
Spare fan belt
Spare belt for the hydraulic pump on the winch
No trees in this neck of the woods hence no axe/saw etc required but 2 ground anchors required instead
I tend to cart everything around most of the time when off road as the times I have been stuck and unable to get out have always been the times when I thought "oh well I'm not going far and it's quite dry so I won't get stuck today..."
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Er
yeah
but I can't remember where!
some Dutch or Belgian site had the parts cats on in PDF format IIRC but I don't have the URL...
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I have a Milemarker on a lightweight mount with plasma so that probably isn't much use to you? I guess it will be a lot lighter than an 8274 with a steel cable on a full bumper.
However I currently have standard 90 front springs but with the ANR2938 isolators fitted top and bottom this gives about 0.6" lift which is about right for that weight. Can measure if required.
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Just a thought (not sure whether it stands up or not but the engineering types will no doubt pitch in!)
Presumably a 2.5 litre turbocharged engine running 1 bar of boost, uses as much air as a 5 litre engine running at the same speed which is naturally aspirated? Twice as much air in each cylinder but half the displacement equals the same amount of air going in per revolution, surely?
If so then anything that will happily feed a 300Tdi (e.g. a Safari) will presumably be OK for a V8 up to 5 litres....?
IMHO anything will give "some resistance" it is just "how much resistance" that is the thing. I'm going to sling my Rebel snorkel in favour of a Safari which is on order and arriving in January, but that is mainly for waterproofing reasons. I have noticed, though, that if you take the front off the air cleaner can (i.e. bypass the snorkel and intake ducting completely so it is sucking air straight into the filter) it does seem to have more power.
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Interesting
I was thinking about a gas steering damper but I don't think I'll bother if that is one of the "side effects" - I've got enough steering grief to contend with already what with clonky steering column bearings and a clicky indicator trip
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Lots of people here use 30x9.50R15s on Discoverys to get a bit of extra width. You need to be careful with rim offsets with standard height suspension, or they will rub - standard sticky-out 8 spokes are a bit too wide, but you can get 7x15 ones with offset to tuck the tyres in under the wheelarches, though they are as rare as hens teeth (and if you find somebody still selling them, let me know please...)
I believe you can also fit 255/70R16s to a Discovery 1 without major problems, these will go on the standard LR rims. I run that size on my D2 but I have seen a D1 with them fitted and AFAIK it had neither a suspension lift nor bent up wheelarches! The next size up 265/75R16 will not fit without quite a bit of lift and possibly some body trimming too. I ran 245/75R16s on my 1996 model Discovery with only very minimal mods to the back of the rear wheelarch.
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....and then somehow with their taste and quality "Blinging" skills, make it look even more 'orrible
Nige
Send it to Bellargio they ought to be able to "improve" it quite a bit
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I haven't seen a gas steering damper, do they really do that? seems like a dumb bit of design to me! I sort of assumed they were pressurised on both sides or something, to even it out.
I guess if so it would pull to the left, if the damper was trying to extend.
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Cosmetically it's hideous but if you put the sexy oily bits in to a sensible looking Mog to give
280bhp
800lb ft B)
455/70R24 tyres B) B)
I'd have that like a shot if I won the lottery!
I call the skin on the outside of my wires, "insulation" 
now I need to go and sit down 
WANTED - Tecnical Snorkel
in International Forum
Posted
Nige, I think you are missing the point
The root correlation of the wibble multiplied by the tangent of surface density squared by the coefficient of hydrodynamic resistance is the critical element in this calculation!
Another problem lies with simulating the effects of a multi-conductor copper wire in manufacturing a snorkel. An intake system made up of 600 different bits of washer tubing cable tied into a bundle, is going to look frankly a bit silly not to mention being 2 foot across and therefore causing you to crash because you can't see where you are F going most of the time
I've got some old galvanised gutter downpipe somewhere I think....
Alternatively why don't you just grind the top off the plenum and just make all the trumpets 3 foot long?
But it will still stop when it gets wet
