BogMonster
-
Posts
10,920 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
23
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by BogMonster
-
-
Start the engine and let it idle don't rev it AT ALL or it will stop and then you will have to bleed it!!
It will idle for about 5-10 sec then you will hear the revs drop slightly and it might "hunt" a little as the air is purged from the system, then the revs will pick up again and once they have, Robert is your mother's brother
If the vehicle has a sedimentor bowl you can bleed that in the same way after draining/cleaning but I am told you must not do both at the same time or it will die, i.e. clean sedimentor, let it bleed and run for a bit, then change fuel filter, and bleed again.
No pressure in a Tdi fuel system. To be honest even on petrol EFI systems where there is pressure retained in the system, it's much easier to just hold a rag round the union when you undo it, than arse around with the "ofishul Land Rover fuel system depressurisation procedure" - all you get is a "ffft" when you loosen the union and that's it
-
Chris
I have only owned a Td4 myself (had it for six months and sold it for various reasons) but have used both a 1.8 (used to be on the company fleet) and 2.0 L-series diesels (we still have one on the company fleet) quite a bit so I hope I'm on the useful side of the cat's last owner
I wouldn't touch a 1.8 with a barge pole just because of the reliability. It's not a bad engine, in fact quite "zippy" in the lower gears and much better than the L series in that respect, but a bit revvy at higher speed (has lower gear ratios than the diesel IIRC). I actually really liked driving it, apart from the fact it was a bit thirsty, then the company sold it. It has since blown up, twice. I gather Land Rover have replaced a lot of engines FOC but the question is how long will they continue to do that? I wouldn't buy one - I've seen a K-series engine in bits and its a horrible, horrible design IMHO - a typical case of some smart-**** engineer getting carried away with saving weight and being clever at the expense of designing it sensibly. No doubt somebody will flame me for saying that and someone else will say they've done a million miles and only changed the oil, but I don't care - I still wouldn't have one because I won't buy anything if I don't like the way it is designed!
The L series is a bit agricultural compared to a modern engine, kind of like a slightly quieter Tdi really. It seems very reliable, apart from cold starting, the one we have (and several others I know of) has a cold starting problem which nobody can get to the bottom of. Just turns over and over, eventually fires and once running is fine, but very hard on the battery/starter. Ours has had just about everything done to it apart from changing the injector pump which is ££££££££ so last resort (that's next). Apart from that one problem I would describe it as solid but uninspiring, there are quite a few here and I don't know of one with any other problem besides the cold start thing. They go well enough, though it doesn't really feel quick, and they pull quite well from low revs out of corners etc. Pretty easy on fuel, not sure of the figures though.
Td4 - had it for about 6 months then sold it for various reasons - I just found a Freelander wasn't going to suit me, not enough space, no good for towing, no good off road. Apart from a lack of woof at very low revs (below 1500) I thought the engine was lovely. Goes like stink on the road once you get it wound up, and works well as an auto too, though the Jatco auto is a bit complicated for my liking and you can't fix anything on them - the only parts available are seals etc for the outside, not sure if even Ashcrofts etc are doing them yet. The manual Getrag box is nice, that's what mine was, and has synchro on reverse which removes the inevitable crash on reverse which almost all the early PG1 gearboxes have. Stupidly cheap to run, even caning the B...x off it you'd still get 35mpg, and over 40mpg on a run was easily achieved. The weak point I felt was the clutch, even a mildly interesting hill start would make it stink like a pair of armoured trousers after the 100 years war, and I'm certainly not an incompetent "hill starter" - off road it was even worse. However I wouldn't have a Td4 either, but that is a criticism unique to this part of the world - BMW managed to design some sort of hideous weakness into the high pressure fuel pumps, the seals in the pump disagree with something in the diesel here, and as a result they P*** fuel out everywhere and the pumps need to be replaced about once a year at a few hundred quid a pop. Wasn't why I sold mine but I was glad I had when I found out about it afterwards! But I don't think this problem shows in the UK/Europe - otherwise there would be rioting in the streets!
There are no automatics on either of the old engines, only on Td4 and V6, the V6 is only an auto IIRC.
As for other things - they seem to wear out front tyres quite quickly (being mainly front wheel drive and quite heavy). There are supposed to be problems with the IRD units and viscous couplings seizing or breaking but I've not seen that on any vehicles I know of here apart from one failed viscous.
Possibly the thing about mine that irritated me most was the fact it destroyed my driveway! The viscous transmission makes the wheels "drag" when turning, and it very quickly rearranged all the gravel in my driveway to the outside edge.
I think in your situation I'd go for the L series diesel - the Td4 is a better engine but I am sure they will be much more expensive, and there really aren't that many other differences between pre 01 and post 01 Freelanders apart from engines and gearboxes.
-
What is the specification of a "Wolf" rear axle?
Spec is "Rubbish"
the diff is anyway...
-
The haynes manual says i need a ball joint separator to free the track rod from the swivel pin housing.
Technically you should use one but I don't know anybody that does. Take the nut off and tap the end of the threaded bit with a hammer, progress to bigger hammer(s) as required
The string method is perfectly OK for tracking, you can set it fairly accurate with this, just beware of tyres with "slightly lumpy" sidewalls and avoid any raised lettering on the sidewall.
To give a reasonable starting point, take the old track rod off and count how many turns you wind out each track rod end, then wind them into the new rod by the same amount, then put it back on and finally tweak with the string.
Defenders are supposed to be slightly toed out so you want just a sliver of daylight between string and sidewall where the string crosses the sidewall at the rear of the front tyres, about 0.5mm each side is perfect.
PS while it probably goes without saying ... don't forget new split pins in when finished!! Some non gen track rod ends come with nyloc nuts, if they do I chuck them away and get the castellated nut and a split pin for peace of mind.
-
Gary - works fine here (nice n small too
)reads90 - sorry you're only 1/5 the size of the winning contender
At 457K it could still use some dieting though!
-
3rdly - go and sort your avatar out
Jammy git I'd love to go on a trip like that!
-
There might be some sort of problem with the fuel pickup in the tank, maybe getting air in to the system? It sounds odd.
Apart from the fact it only happens with a 1/4 tank I would have said blocked fuel filter, as that can cause the same thing. I actually had that happen to me a couple of weeks back in a 300Tdi 110, was driving out to the airport, thought when I left that it was slightly sluggish but put it down to the 40mph headwind on the airport road, by the time I was halfway there it was staggering up a hill in 3rd that should have been possible in 4th or 5th, and by the time I was nearly there it was down to 15mph!!! If you backed off to no throttle then floored it you would get a burst of initial acceleration then it would die away, same if you stopped (which we did several times) it would rev to about 3000rpm then die back to about 2300-2500 and cough and judder. Scrounged a fuel filter from somebody, fitted it in the car park (gravel car parks absorb diesel quite well
) and 100% normal service resumed.I'm pretty sure it will be fuel starvation of some sort so I suggest you check right the way through; i.e. tank pickup, sedimentor bowl (if fitted), fuel filter, lift pump, and check all the pipes are OK and not crushed/kinked. But most of these things would be the same regardless of whether the tank was empty or full, other than that I give up I'm afraid
It isn't likely to be the cause but while you are at it check the throttle cable adjuster hasn't unwound itself, mine did that the other day and a tweak up restored about 30bhp
-
I think the thing that puts me off the web as much as anything, is the fact that you can't fix it unless you have a sailmaker's sewing machine in the back of the vehicle (which I guess most don't...!)
One of the things I really like about the Dyneema - and I have thankfully not had to do this yet - is that if you DO break it, 5 mins work and you can have it fixed and ready for another go
no go with wire, and no go with this stuff. Could make the difference between a very long day and "oops" and back on the go in a matter of minutes - and was one of the big reasons I changed, I snapped a wire rope once in a PITA situation and don't care to repeat the experience (though it is amazing what a knot tied in a wire rope in a fit of temper will stand up to...just don't expect to get it undone again )White90's links were interesting (well one of them was, the other one I couldn't access)
If I ever got any of this web stuff I think it would be as an extension line rather than as a winch line, but as I already have a Dyneema extension it'll be a while yet before I need anything.
Does anybody know what the rated breaking strain is? String is huge - I think the 10mm Dyneema I use is supposed to be something like 22000lb when new - what's this stuff?
-
I'd post it as a clue but I gave up waiting for it to download.....
-
Cool idea B)
Not the painful bit, this:
to meet a doctor who grew a penis on a man's armYou could do all sorts of interesting things with a spare one there
- Scaring girls at parties (hello would you like to shake hands?)
- Sneaking up behind somebody who you don't like and take a leak down the back of the neck when they aren't looking
- Create at least four new chapters for the Kama Sutra
- Multi tasking B)
many more I am sure
As for you Nige, better hurry up, it's nearly the end of the year, if you're not careful you'll go into A&E and they'll say "Who are you?"
-
Time for a Limit on the size I would think.
Stephen there is a setting to not show Avatars control panel /Board settings you can turn off the option to show them.
I think there should be (if it is possible)
I don't want to not look at avatars, I just want people to show a bit more consideration for those of us who don't have BB .... 99% of people's avatars are fine and some are worth seeing
-
Count me in! Come hell or high water.....err....V8-scrub the high water:)....I'll be there!
Hmmmmmmmmmm high water
wouldn't be thinking of
would you Si?
Sadly I won't be able to make this one
... but to anybody who hasn't been on one I recommend it as a brilliant weekend -
I'll let you off Trev since your current one is a slender 2.7K
-
The LROi quote is a simply a quote taken from almost all winch manuals, like not powering in for more that 30 second continuously or always free spooling out or even nver wheel assisting.
So it was B.......s then. I thought as much - just checking I hadn't been misleading people I had previously told "OK to use plasma but be careful winching out".
Of course in reality the brake in XD9000i's usually seems to be seized up anyway so you probably can't winch in without it getting hot...
-
Third rock from the Antarctic checking in
-
OK time for a competition
Who can find the biggest avatar belonging to somebody else who obviously has BB and can't be @rsed to resize it to something reasonable
As a yardstick a still image resized to avatar size should be about 3K - 5K perhaps 15K at biggest, and an anim one a bit bigger (my anim penguin is 9K - but up to 50K is probably reasonable)
No names but the biggest one I have found so far is 2.5 MB ... and I was wondering why some F pages were taking a week to bluddy load - beat that
(To see the file size right click on the avatar image and select Properties)
-
"Ladies and gentlemen, in the event of a crash landing on water you will find your life jacket under your seat"
-
My 265/75R16s touch the ribs on full articulation
-
There has to be a reason for it being 1/3 the price of plasma I suppose...
it'll be interesting to see if the price of plasma/dyneema etc comes down in due course!
-
Following Mo's "winch web" thread I was just re-reading the article in the July LRO about synthetic vs. wire.
Many electric winches have brakes within the drum, which overheat when you retrieve at a rate greater than 20 feet a minute. If you use synthetic then you have to winch, then rest to let it cool down, and winch againSurely not? I have owned 3 winches (Husky then 8274 now Milemarker) none of which had the brake in the drum, but unless it's broken (and I'm sure many are) the brake on a winch that does have one shouldn't be dragging when you're winching IN, surely...? apart from anything else it would be reducing the pulling power of the winch. The problem with overheating when winching OUT under power (e.g. lowering against the brake) is obvious and you need to be careful, but I always thought it was OK to use them the other way because the brake disengaged when winching in...?
If it was just written by somebody working for the mag I would have dismissed it as probably being bbbbbxxx but it was attributed to two fairly well known names in the challenge world who I would have thought knew what they were talking about (though the near-accident they referred to when a rope melted was in fact when winching out)
So which is correct?
If the version in the mag is correct then it would mean you really couldn't safely use plasma on any winch with an in-drum brake, even if you didn't plan to do any lowering out.
Not a problem for me, just curious...
-
Mo
LRO July 2005 p96/97 mentions Lifting & Crane Services as a supplier of Winch Web £47 for 150 feet apparently!
-
Oooooh Fi you have a new title. Not guilty (well not directly anyway) mods can't change titles on here
still playing up here - never had the problem before but it seems to be on other sites not LR4x4 so not sure anything can be done about it
ho hum....
-
There was something about it recently - I thought it was on here but maybe it was in a mag? I just did a google but "winch web" just turns up every website about winches which isn't useful. I'll see if I can find the item in a mag tonight if nobody else replies. I was thinking maybe Lifting & Crane Services but I can't see it on their site.
But I think the view was that while the web was cheap, you couldn't splice repair it like ordinary string, and it was too easily cut on any sort of edge then it would just tear and was F*ed.
-
Well I would buy a Jag over a BM any day even if it is not quite as good at 180mph in a wet corner on a track day.
A bit like the new Aston vs BMW M6 vs Porch Beetle that was on Top Gear here the other day:-
The choice of classic British (with the emphasis on the "ish" these days) elegance versus a car that a drug dealer would have to wear a bag in... ooh let me think about that for a second.
Jags don't look that different because they got it right the first time IMHO B) you only need to keep faffing around with a design if it dates quickly. Did anybody say "Defender"?
) and 100% normal service resumed.
... but to anybody who hasn't been on one I recommend it as a brilliant weekend 
1.8 vs. 2.0 TD
in Freelander Forum
Posted
I'm fairly sure there was never an auto L series diesel.
One of the other things I had forgotten about mine, till you mentioned it, is just HOW MUCH dust the bl**dy thing let in on gravel roads! The back looked like somebody had emptied one of those 250 ton Cat dump trucks in it after a couple of months...seriously not dust-proof around the back door/window. Not really an issue for you I guess, as you have proper roads
The whole "silly electric rear window thing" is a liability IMHO, allegedly useful for dropping shopping in without opening the door (or some such marketing tosh) but as they usually seem to be broken its usefulness is limited. What it does do is leak copious amounts of dust and sometimes water, if you look at the awful design of the seal where it goes from sealing the door to sealing the window you can see it was another example of somebody trying to be too clever and failing. And try getting into the back if the thing has been parked back-on to a snowstorm and the temperature is below freezing. All you get when you press the electric rear door unlock is a horrible grinding straining noise as the window tries to unfreeze itself from the frame to let the door open... all in all I think the window is a weak point of the vehicle, maybe useful if you have a dog, to let the smell out, and you can carry an 18 foot length of timber in through there and out through the passenger door window, but that's about it. It would be much better if it had a conventional door & fixed window, but they all have the leccy one. It should go up and down smoothly, if not the winder may be damaged (probably due to the window being frozen shut as described) - some of them only go down a couple of inches and then seize up.
What usually happens if water leaks in is that it collects in the storage compartment under the floor in the boot, check that in anything you are looking at, not at all uncommon to find an inch or two of water in the compartment! You have to pull ALL the rear trim out and take the carpet right out to dry it out properly, and it is a PITA, I can vouch for that from personal experience...
Other silly cost cutting weaknesses/things worth checking include:
- Rear door handle is electrically operated (no connection to the latch) and can break, and the fixing studs rust through, check that is securely attached & works properly on an older vehicle.
- Check all the electric windows work properly up and down a few times, the window winder is a crummy endless-wire-in-a-channel thing and usually fails to proceed with a horrible grinding noise after about 4 or 5 years, I've seen loads of them broken on older (and sometimes newer) vehicles
- Likewise check sunroof operation if fitted
- Check the airbag warning light comes on (bulb test when ignition on) then goes off, sometimes the rotary coupler in the steering wheel can break and costs a bluddy fortune to replace if it does! Somebody sneaky might just take the bulb out to save about £200....
- Steering racks are not great and I think if they leak you have to buy a whole new rack - I don't THINK you can get seal kits (this might have changed though) - rack is £xpensive.
And if you do buy one and it has alloys, take all the wheels off to make sure you can before you need to - they seize on the hubs with corrosion and are buggers to shift! On our company one I had a call from somebody who couldn't get the front wheel off after a puncture. Went up there muttering about how stupid said person must be if they hadn't figured out how to change a #kin wheel ... took us about half an hour with a big sledgehammer/crowbar/temper/shouting to "persuade" it to unstick! it was quite amusing as only 5 min from work, less so if it had been the middle of the night and tipping down with rain etc... and when we got it back to work we checked the other front wheel and that was exactly the same.
I have to say, apart from the above mentioned points, on the whole they seem quite reliable (at least the ones I know here do) and I don't think they deserve the reputation they seem to have acquired - though it may be a different story if you cane it up and down the motorway all the time, road speeds here are relatively low (40mph max speed limit even if many ignore that by +50%) so mechanical stresses will be less.
Can't think of anything else at the mo, might be back for episode 3 later