BogMonster
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Posts posted by BogMonster
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15 bar....
bit optimistic for a 300 I think
I'm about as close to the antarctic as you are to the arctic
I think the essence of it is "stop being a stingy git and buy an intercooler"!
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I don' know if it is the same stuff as some of those products mentioned above but whatever they use to stick bonded windscreens in is incredibly strong stuff!
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Allisport was the preferred choice, don't know anything about this other bunch?
What sort of £££ are they?
Your temp observations pretty much support what I was thinking which is that the bigger intercooler can only drop the intake air temp a bit (not sure what the "heated post turbo" air temp is but say it is 100 deg C, you might get it down to 40 if you are lucky?)
So it isn't going to suddenly knock (say) 200 deg off the EGT. It suggests to me that if you are careful, you can probably get 80% of the power output without an intercooler, and do it for free
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Lara Croft in possibly the sexiest factory produced vehicle ever B)
Nice exhaust note too
and a fine pair of airbags
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I deal (trade) with Southam Tyres who are always 100% helpful and are the main importer for Kumho (so they tell me anyway) as well as General and BFG.
If you send an email to sales@southamtyres.co.uk and ask who their nearest dealer is they might be able to help?
The 822 is quite an old pattern, which IIRC was superceded by the 825, which was then superceded by the KL41, so anybody with 822s still on stock is probably not selling a lot of tyres...
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Les
Given the reputation of the TD for breaking if worked too hard, I'd get an EGT gauge as the first step, I should think if you overdo it at all it might be terminal to the engine, even more so than with a Tdi.
No idea on what to do with a TD pump sorry...
but as MarkieB says I think the TD pump will be different to the NA one as it must surely have a diaphragm on the top to increase the fuelling as boost increases, like a Tdi etc? -
If you haven't already, I'd also have a look at the new-ish Kumho KL41 which is an AT pattern available in that size. The Kumhos I have used seem pretty tough and though I have only seen the new KL41 but not used it, a poke and a prod suggests that it does seem to follow the trend.
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If you mean Exmoor Beast then yes he is around somewhere
Welcome back
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she screams according to a video posted on the forum earlier
Pass the coat
Nige
O how I wish moderators could change people's titles on this forum
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£45 a corner is a bargain if they are anything like as good as most BFGs!
Kumhos are good value too, a budget price but not budget quality. The relevant AT one in this case is either the 825 pattern or the newer KL41, not 100% sure if that is available in 235/70R16 yet.
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It's on the auto replace list of censored words
Hmm
I bet if I do that trick with rearranging the letters except for the first and last it won't get me
kcetelent
Ha!
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Nigel your axle has fallen off
Impressive
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The AT2s are the only choice if you want an 18" tyre to fit on a Discovery (unless you reckon on fitting 37" BFG MTs, which would be an interesting project...)
Too early to say on AT2 life expectancy I think... in fact I doubt anybody has worn a set out yet!
BFGs are well known to last for ever and I use them and like them a lot. Expensive but you get what you pay for...
Tread patterns are very similar so probably performance will be similar size for size though I haven't tried an AT2 off road. The 18" AT2s for the new Discovery etc struck me as very hard tyres, not helped by only having about half an inch of sidewall between the rim and the road (they are /55 section!)
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I think you should try k 1 e * n t e c t
Waxoyl seems to be the favoured option and is what I am going to do to my Discovery when I can be bothered to clean the underneath off well enough and then not use it for 2 weeks while it dries out
Forget Hammerite it is bluddy rubbish and falls off after about 3 minutes in my experience, never tried it on a chassis but it doesn't stick to anything else...
Edited to say how come I ended up with galvanising in the first line on the first attempt???
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Most Discovery wheels whether steel or alloy are all 7Jx16, certainly on 300Tdi and I am fairly sure on 200Tdi.
For what you require I would go for 235/70R16 size, they are the same diameter as 205/80R16 within a fraction of an inch, but that bit wider and look much better on the vehicle as well as providing much better cornering and braking grip. The BFG AT is available in that size I think.
225/75R16 are a bit taller so will gear the vehicle up a bit, but will still be fine on a Discovery. I have had 205R16, 225/75R16, 235/70R16, and 245/75R16 on various different Discoverys I have owned or driven and there isn't much to choose between the larger sizes but anything is better than 205R16s for cornering etc!
If you want to go a bit wider still and you can get them, I am pretty sure you can fit 255/70R16s on a Discovery 1 without too many difficulties, you can certainly fit them on a D2 and they are excellent on those. Downside is not many different types available in that size. I have BFG ATs in that size on mine and I love 'em
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Has anybody with an EGT gauge on a 300Tdi ever measured the difference that fitting a big intercooler makes to the EGT (or the inlet air temp for that matter) at any given fuelling level?
Just curious... the thought process going through my head is "how much of the power comes from fuelling increase and how much from having more air" - yes I know the power only comes from the fuel but what I am thinking is something like as follows:
1 My current peak EGT when absolutely caning the ollocks off it up a hill is 609*
2 So if I increased the fuelling until the max was no more than 700 (below the 720 danger point)
3 And then added an intercooler and adjusted the fuelling so the max was again no more than 700
What would the difference in power output be between stages 2 and 3, compared to the difference between 1 and 2?
What would the likely drop in EGT be if I just added the big intercooler in stage 3 and didn't adjust the fuelling again?
Same question could be asked of what the difference would be if I added a bigger intercooler and adjusted the fuelling until the peak EGT was what it is at the moment - 609* - thereby putting no more thermal stress on the engine than the standard tune.
I know from past experience that fiddling with the pump gives huge improvements in power/torque and driveability (though at the risk of breaking your engine - I haven't a clue what the EGT was on the old 90, probably rather high, but I know it went a hell of a lot better!)
Thoughts.....?
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Might end in *stard thieving &&&&s perhaps?
You could write to them and suggest that as you now have written evidence that they expect £700 worth of faults on your vehicle each year from now on, you will be pursuing a claim against the company in respect of the Sale of Goods Act (or whatever it is) and they might like to give you a brand new vehicle as compensation
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Tut tut tut tut Ralph you got a part number wrong
The starter motor that will fit most engines is ERR5009 this is the high speed starter and IIRC will fit all the diesels from 300Tdi back to a 2.5 (not sure about a 2.25 and I don't think it fits a 2.5 petrol or a V8; the Td5 starter is a completely different Japanese thing and is unreliable rubbish)
We get the Bosch ones from Bearmach to sell at work, ask for "Type B - OEM" parts and you will get a Bosch starter motor in a Bosch box, same part as a Genuine LR part (except for the price) right down to having a LR logo stamped into the casing!!!
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David, sorry I was blithering a bit, what I meant was whether the air springs might dislocate inside the coils at full extension and get cock-eyed (or are they positively retained top and bottom?? in which case at full extension is it OK ie doesn't get its guts pulled out?)
Who else sells them besides Simmonites? where did yours come from or was it a long time ago?
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Going back to these, what sort of travel do they have i.e. do they limit articulation at all or become dislocated or have problems at full extension of the normal suspension?
Tony if you are able to get a photo or two of them fitted, that would be great, thanks
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There are already tyre size limits for some comps. Who cares - there are others. Who say's I can't run small tyres. Even with 205's I'll have more ground clearance than any non-portal truck. It just so happens I'm picking up a a set of 16" rims on Sunday - diamonds anybody
That's a very interesting point Andy ... with 205R16s on what would the clearance under the diff be? it would really P off somebody who had just spent a million quid on a set of 36" Simex to have you cruise past them on 205R16 remoulds
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[rant mode ON]
I have the utmost respect for those people who have the time and considersble expertise to build their own vehicles/carry out their own R&D and modifications. However, I am starting to get a little tired of people constantly having a go at so-called "cheque book off-roaders". Some people are blessed with the time and expertise to go down the DIY route. However, the vast majority of 4x4 owners will not have the time, not have the skills or not have either. This SHOULD NOT mean that they cannot improve their truck in order to compete more competitively in a sport that they enjoy - if they do happen to have the funds (for which they've worked VERY hard) to commission someone else to do the work then good luck to them.
So, if you carry out all your own mods, then well done you, but dont deride those who get someone else to do theirs.
[rant mode OFF]
McS
I agree. If you are not too short of cash but generally quite short of time (like me) or just lazy (also like me) or not much good at building stuff (also like me) or rapidly run out of patience/temper on anything that takes longer than half an hour to finish (definitely like me) that shouldn't be a reason to not do stuff. I have the greatest respect for all the folks that build everything themselves from scratch but I couldn't do half that stuff if I tried to because I'm rubbish at it. Even if I can do something, I look at it and decide whether I would rather make it or pay somebody else to and have all the time I saved to enjoy using it. Quite often the second argument wins!
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Jules,
What did you do to yours to solve it/what were the symptoms?
On the ones I saw there was a huge loss of power, I guess the wastegate couldn't open/shut (whichever way it goes) because what happened was that a lot of dust gets into that silly little filter over time and then a good mouthful of water turns it all to mud which completely blocks the filter....
I guess a "robust solution" would be to extend the breather and route it into the clean side of the main engine air filter, that's what Land Rover did with the Defenders, which used to have the same silly little filter on early Td5s for the EGR modulator, and they had the same problem. Later Td5 Defenders have the breather from the EGR modulator routed to the airbox and it breathes into the clean side of the engine air filter. Not sure how easy it would be on a Td4 though as I seem to remember the air filter is a ground-breakiingly stupid arrangement and you need to take 1/2 the bluddy engine off to get to it
I solved my problems by selling the Freelander and getting a V8 Discovery which was what I wanted in the first place anyway
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Here's mine.....
Looks a little different now, not much though
Ah so. Air cooled V8. Velly clever
but as MarkieB says I think the TD pump will be different to the NA one as it must surely have a diaphragm on the top to increase the fuelling as boost increases, like a Tdi etc?
Tyres for Discovery 200Tdi
in Discovery Forum
Posted
[ahem] To appease any forthcoming legal challenges the management would like to point out that they are definitely not exactly the same tread pattern as the BFGs
