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BogMonster

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Posts posted by BogMonster

  1. I saw it done on Clarksons Motorworld a few years ago but they jacked the vehicle up first - I don't think it would work if you haven't got it jacked up (which by the sounds of it you haven't?)

    On that programme, they jacked it up, got the tyre sitting straight, sprayed lighter fuel around the inside then stood back and sprayed more out of the can and lit the jet, which lit the stuff in the tyre - bang! - back on the rim in a fraction of a second.

    Never tried it personally but yes I think it would probably lead to being arrested under the anti terrorist laws :ph34r:

  2. I've never seen any info on Defender crash testing. I presume it has been done? Were the results just too terrible to show?

    I imagine it could do OK or fail quite spectacularly, depending on what the test actually was :unsure:

    I have seen a lot of rolled 110s here (high speed rolls - a product of Defender handling + gravel roads + lots of wind + inexperienced drivers used to none of the above) and everything above nipple height is potentially just one big crumple zone. I've seen one where the whole cab was flat-packed down to the height of the top of the speedo binnacle just as though it had been dropped on its roof (well it had, in a manner of speaking!) The alli windscreen frame pops at the corners, the B pillars have all the strength of a bean tin and the back upper bodysides aren't much better. Even in a relatively modest roll you usually end up with one side (the side it lands on first) crunched down by 18 inches or so. You really, really don't want to roll one... but having said that it's amazing how few people have been killed here considering the number of accidents.

    However, in a frontal impact (as tested by almost all crash tests AFAIK) it would probably do quite well due to the chassis - depending on what you were running into. Not so sure about how well the occupants would do in biffing their heads on a relatively unforgiving dashboard though!

    And I think probably the less said about side impact protection from a Defender door the better :blink:

  3. There are actually 4 genuine parts belts; 2 lengths, and squeaky/non-squeaky in each :)

    ERR3287 is the longer belt, or the equivalent length non squeak one is PQS000030 (which still squeaks, just a bit less). This fits early vehicles with the big (about 61mm) alternator pulley, 1994/95 age vehicles.

    ERR5911 is the shorter belt/or PQS000040 for a quiet(er) version, fits everything from some time in 95 or early 96 onwards, with the smaller (about 49mm) alternator pulley. This belt is fitted right up to the current models.

    The smaller pulley was fitted to later vehicles, apparently to speed up the alternator at engine idle and therefore improve the charging at idle speed, but of course needs a slightly shorter belt to compensate (though actually I think the long one will fit either vehicle and work OK, it just isn't quite as tight on the "wrong" sort of vehicle).

    Same belts fitted to Disco & Defender engines, just varies by age.

  4. For God's sake!

    As a taxpayer I am sick of hearing that year after year the government has been doing nothing at all to educate the people that in winter snowfall is possible and therefore they should drive on winter tyres and dress appropriately.

    It's only minus one or two degrees below 0! It's only a few inches of snowfall! You don't die becase of this, just get your ass a bit cold and need to drive more carefully!!!

    It is a source of some considerable amusement to the rest of the world that every year, around this time, the whole of Britain (present company excepted of course ;) I know most on here look forward to it!) feigns shock and surprise at the arrival of 1/2 an inch of snow and the entire country grinds to a halt in absolute chaos :blink:

    I was watching the BBC news last night and there was some item about hundreds of cars being stranded somewhere or other - and there wasn't even any bluddy snow on the road - it was completely clear!!!

    You don't really need to do anything - I spent 3 years living in Durham and I used to live in a little village about 7 miles outside the city and drive in every day in my ancient Metro (11 years old when I got it). Never any problem, never once failed to start and it used to get #kin cold, the village was in the bottom of a valley and I regularly used to see ice on the inside of the bedroom window! When it snowed we used to deliberately take the back roads in every day because 1) it was much more fun as there was nobody on the back roads which allowed "Juha Kankkunen" cornering on some of the bends 2) there was usually a 1/2 hour queue to get onto the main road out of the village and 3) when you did get onto it half the time it was only travelling at about 5mph anyway. Never had any problem, as long as there was less than about five or six inches of snow (more than that started to drag underneath) a small front wheel drive car could zip around with absolutely no bother - and the old Metro was built way before the days of ABS and traction control. My entire winter preparation used to consist of buying an ice scraper and a couple of cans of de-icer...

    My 25oz barbecued steak last night was delicious by the way :P

  5. PMSL @ Reads90 mi7.gif

    My initial reply might have had a bit of "humph" in it but frankly anybody who runs a parts counter and doesn't immediately know most or all the p/no for basic things like filters off the top of their head (never mind spouting the sort of drivel that Landyandy was being quoted!) ought to be looking for a new job .... I rarely deal with that stuff at work nowadays but I still know most of the numbers for filters/pads/bushes without even looking..... the main parts bloke at work probably has 1000+ part numbers in his head without needing to look them up - and he's not often wrong....

    For some reason your story reminded me of an incident at work a few years ago...

    Cocky bloke who used to work in the workshop came in "gimme a set of spark plugs for a Fiat Panda"

    OK...

    came back with 4 x NGK plugs

    CB: "No it only has 3" (thinking a 3 cyl engine for some reason!?!?)

    Slightly amazed look

    Ok, have 3 then if it makes you happy.... put 4th one back on the shelf

    15 min later, he comes back

    "Can I have a spark plug for a Fiat Panda"

    <plot hatches rapidly>

    "Sorry, we just sold the last one to xxxxx for a lawnmower"

    "Oh SH^^ what am I gonna do now?" (goes away to try to explain to the supervisor why he only got 3 the first time round and has now fitted them)

    Cue everybody PMSL and falling about laughing....

    Revenge is sweet :lol:

  6. I suggest you tell the supplier they don't know their ar&& from their elbow!!!

    1) There are no 109bhp 300Tdi's, nor any 139bhp ones... all mechanically injected 300Tdis are 111bhp, and IIRC the EDC ones fitted to later auto Discoverys are 120bhp. Yours will be 111bhp standard mechanical injection. The later International 300Tdis (like my new 90 has) are quoted as 115 I think, but it is PS or CV or some inferior foreign measurement, not bhp, so it is probably the same.

    2) All 300Tdis fitted to all vehicles, along with most if not all Rover V8s (maybe not v v old ones but definitely recent 3.5/3.9/4.0), all 200Tdis, 2.5 petrols, 2.5 diesels, TDs and probably others as well, use the same oil filter: ERR3340. There is an older filter p/no ERR1168 which is a longer type but this has long since been superceded to ERR3340 which does all the Rover engines except a Td5, the part number of the Td5 one is LPX100590 for the full flow filter and ERR6299 for the rotor element. Newer stuff like Td4/TDV6 etc has different filters again, some of these are paper element ones like the 2.25 Series 3 ones.

    3) All 300Tdi Defender air filters from 1995 model year (March 94 onwards) right up to and including the latest 2006 model year 300Tdis, use the same air filter ESR2623. Anybody who says otherwise is talking b****cks!! As it happens I just had one put in my 90 today (2004 model year) the exact same filter as my previous 1995 90 used.

    4) The other cylindrical filters they are waving around are probably 2.5 or 200Tdi ones (there are 2 types of 200Tdi ones though I don't remember the number offhand; I could easily find out if reqd) both I think are bigger in diameter than 300Tdi and may also be a different length.

    5) While I'm on a roll, 300Tdis also all use the same fuel filter AEU2147L, Defender and Discovery.

    Any Land Rover dealer or aftermarket supplier will recognise those numbers, and any parts salesman with half a clue should be able to quote them off the top of his/her head IMHO....

    So tell 'em to stick that in their pipe and smoke it :P

    HTH - if you need any more ammo let me know :)

    Stephen

  7. Just thought to myself "wonder if there is a Toyota forum worth asking"

    Found one -- what a hive of activity -- http://www.toyotaforum.co.uk/

    Some of us need to go over there and wind them up a bit I think :D

    A year online and HOW many posts?! :huh:

    I especially like the gallery: "For all those Toyota Landcruiser's that dont go on the road all the time, offroad pictures only..."

    ....no posts.... :lol:

  8. Jules, one reason: price. Ex Jap ones are dirt cheap to buy at trade prices.

    Woodrow if you have anything in the near future bung me a PM pls, it's for a work related thing I am pursuing on instructions from above.

    Anybody else please?

    Ta

  9. I don't know what age an S reg is but it sounds like the EGR valve jammed open to me, this feeds exhaust gas back into the intake system to reduce (ha!) emissions but when working properly should close as soon as you demand full power, if it jams open the engine is trying to burn a load of fuel in not very much oxygen hence F all power and F lots of smoke.

    First thing to check anyway...

  10. OK, I know, so anybody who wanted to buy an ex Japan 8 or 10 year old used Pajero/Prado/Surf probably should be taken out and shot, but bear with me a moment please.... :ph34r:

    Suppose somebody was so foolish to desert the Oval (and its not for me, my blood is still green thanks and the only Japanese things I own are a motorbike and a strimmer) where is a good place to source such things from? I imagine as with any sort of business there are places you'd happily deal with and places not to touch with a barge pole.

    So, can anybody offer any opinions good or bad on any of these suppliers please? There's loads of them on the web but I know nothing about any of them. Looking for somebody that could be trusted to send a decent vehicle for an export order and not use it as an opportunity to unload some old tat that nobody who had seen it would even think of buying...

    If it is something you don't want to post on an open forum (due to an ongoing legal dispute for example) please PM me

    Particularly interested in Toyotas i.e. Prado (Landcruiser Colorado in the UK) & Hilux Surf (4Runner).

    Many thanks

    Stephen

  11. I would have thought that bit at the bottom would have a SWB vehicle like a 90 in serious danger of going end over end...? Not sure what the gradient would be but from other photos I have seen the bit at the top looks to be near 45 deg so the bit at the bottom must be more than that...

    I guess its one of those places where as you turn to come down, the average American would suddenly wish that not all the vehicles in their country were automatics :lol: in the article in LRO the guy doing the driving (Bill Burke? I think) IIRC said something about putting the transmission into neutral and inching down on the brakes because to have the transmission in gear was trying to push the thing down the hill faster than you wanted to go. I can see fast might be undesirable...

    Based on that, I would have thought an underdrive would be excellent, just creep down in 1st low underdrive.

    Not sure I would want to try it (up or down) if it was raining though :unsure:

  12. There was a recent article in one of the mags (LRO I think) about the Lions Back

    Serious butt-pucker factor I reckon!! But I agree - you'd be wanting the guy behind you to wait at the top until you got to the bottom I think.... especially if you'd seen that video (I didn't download the link but I'm assuming its the same one of the Chevy Blazer bouncing airborne a couple of times then going off the side?)

  13. ...These are built to BS666-F-SCL-(almost)-proof standards....

    Do I get a free sample to test that claim?

    Quality control 'n' all that ... essential if one is going to have one's name on something, y'know :D

    No OK I thought not :ph34r:

    Looking forward to seeing photos anyway :)

    Edited to say ... to quote somebody not very long ago ... "5mm is hardly even a 'repair thickness'" :lol:

    I didn't have a coat, but thanks for asking :ph34r:

  14. Are you building it yourself i.e. looking for something to copy and modify, or looking for an off the shelf one?

    One of the things I want to do (besides having a D6 sized blade on it) is modify my KG so it can easily be pulled out by the winch. A big drawback at the moment is that if you dig it into the ground and it goes right in (i.e. whole of spade below ground) it is a pig of a thing to get out if you then can't shift the vehicle - if the anchor just pulls along under the ground which it often does in soft peat. I reckon something that folds (i.e. KG/Pullpal design) could have the geometry modified so if you disengaged the lower arm it pulls round and rotates the spade far enough (past the vertical) to allow you to pull it back out with the winch, but in the same direction, i.e. you haven't got to get round the back of the anchor with the winch (which is kinda difficult if you are still stuck)

    I have been thinking it was time to do a "Definitive ground anchor thread" that everybody can post their ideas on then can later be put in the tech archive, but I don't want to hijack yours :)

    Oops

    got carried away and entirely missed what I was leading up to which was: going for a solid anchor would be stronger I am sure, but (I think) would rule out the possibility of doing what I suggested above. The KG/TG folding design is just so neat :)

  15. Can you ping me some pics over please Bogbuster? was toying with big ally blades with steel reinforcement

    I haven't made anything to picture yet! I did do one mod however, to stop the spade folding back on itself when the point hits a rock:

    bg6.jpg

    fixed!

    fixed3.jpg

    The rest is still at the "thoughts in the back of my mind/vague sketch of spade shape/wondering where I can nick a sheet of 6mm steel from" stage :wacko: i.e. I know I need it, I think I know roughly what I am going to do, but I haven't got round to doing anything about it yet

    So many things fall into that category these days .... sigh :unsure:

    Back on topic, Mo, I run about 22 to 25psi in my 265/75R16s I guess similar would work OK in 255s. The 33x12.50R15s seem happy enough down to about 20psi at steady speeds up to about 50mph (the sidewalls don't get too hot anyway) never go faster than that with the vehicle fully laden (partly as the speed limit is 40mph and partly because lots of weight on the roof, lots of speed, loose gravel roads and a crosswind don't mix)

  16. Suzuki Rino,

    Rolls Royce Gnome helicopter gas turbine, 1800shp and a weight of 230kgs

    Aluminum Portal axles to overcome the need for 5inch half shafts and the fact that the engine turns at 20.000rpm,

    40" Boggers etc.

    AND If you modify the exhaust to give vectored thrust you can either lift yourself up out of the bog or just ski over it

    Build me one while you're at it :lol::lol::lol::lol:

    How are you getting on with ground anchors down there Bogbuster? we found they were good entertainment if you wanted to watch the navigator come surfing (whilst stood on it) towards the truck at speed but not a lot else - any breakthroughs greatfully received!

    Yeah, I can surf myself as well, with the wireless remote :lol: Gotta be careful you don't fall off though :blink: and it only lasts until the back of the spade disappears out of sight anyway..... :(

    Due to a number of other problems recently I've not made any progress on this but it really is a swings and roundabouts thing - I think the ultimate would be a KittyGripper design with a 3 foot by 3 foot spade and twice the thickness of metal in the arms but then you couldn't carry the damn thing and it wouldn't fit in the vehicle anyway :angry: my current plans include enlarging the current 11x22" spade to probably about 24x22" and 6mm steel not the standard 3mm (which will be far too weak at the increased width - it'll just fold in the middle) and see how that goes. But really, the answer is that I try not to get very very stuck unless there is somebody else around (i.e. look before you leap) because at the moment the winch can comfortably pull both my anchors out when chained together.

    A top tip though: a SWB Pajero makes quite a good ground anchor if you can take one with you :P

    Nigel will be along in a moment to drag this thread back on topic :ph34r:

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