BogMonster
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Posts posted by BogMonster
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I just wind the cable in until there's a couple of feet of slack, hook the hook onto its retaining loop under the bumper, and then wind the rest of it in with hands clear until its tight. No need to put fingers anywhere near the cable - and if you do need to guide it over roller fairleads or something (mine is a hawse so no problem), you can just hold the cable between finger and thumb so no danger of trapping pinkies
Mangling fingers is a bit like treading on a garden rake and having it bash you on the back of the head, you really only have to watch what you are doing, to not do it
I like the radius arm bush idea Les
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Castrol Tection 15w40 in the engine
Currently I use MTF94 in the gearbox though I have some Difflock MT75 oil to try in there at some stage
I have also used Castrol Dexron IIID (a type of ATF) in my old 90 which was just as good as the stupidly expensive LR oil which IMHO makes no difference to the gearchange
Castrol EPX80w90 in the t/box and diffs
Stupid LR sloppy grease in the swivels because there are no drain bungs to put oil in
Being a newish one my 90 has the funky hot pink OAT antifreeze in it that smells of rotten fish, though as the engine and cooling system is the same as all other 300Tdis I think I would probably go back to normal antifreeze if I ever had to change it
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I've just never seen any point in changing from the std shock turrets, unless you need different length ones or want to fit twin shocks or something. I've never seen a turret break except from old age/corrosion which can affect anything, the only bit that is a weak point is the stupid retaining ring which holds it on, though even those only seem to break when you try and take it off! I suppose it might be a different story if you are racing or something.
I suppose if somebody has spent a zillion quid on some fancy shockers and value for money dictates that they need people to be able to see their new acquisition then there might be a reason for it
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fair enough point
I'm not in my right mind!
wibble
PS. anybody who wants to be left my V8 in my will after I get run over by the Moon a week on Thursday please send me an inscription on a tablet of seaweed carried this way by a passing gibbon
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I didn't see that but I think it means "Land Rover of Brazil", presumably "do" is Brazilianish for "of" or something?
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It is basically the same ECU as a Td5 Defender (just some programming differences) so the plugs etc will be the same as the lead you have seen, if the Defender extension lead is not long enough I assume one end is male & one female so you could join a couple of them together?
Or buy a D2 V8 then the ECU is in a nice warm snuggly place to start with
just as well with the cost of the bluddy thing! 
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Do many people get their fingers / hands trapped in the fairlead? I've not heard of anyone...
Fi
A chap I know did it about a year ago, over-run on the winch mangled some fingers (XD9000i)
If you imagine taking your finger and battering it 8 or 9 times with a 7lb sledgehammer that was kind of what it looked like afterwards, nail and stuff was gone and the rest was just a blue/black mess. I think it's more or less recovered now, not sure as I haven't seen him for a while.
I've had a "little nip" and learned from the experience
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Not really relevant to solving your problem but one of mine lives on the roof and I still have the back door carrier if I need to take an extra spare (though I can carry a third one also on the roof if required)
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I am happy with "Good brand" filters i.e. Cooper/Crosland etc but not "any old brand" and definitely not "unbranded" - if somebody won't put their name on something I ain't gonna trust it
. I have come across problems with non-gen fuel filters blocking prematurely, where Gen ones don't (our fuel here is "a bit variable in quality") but on the whole the good brand name ones are fine.Suspension bushes I will only ever use Genuine as experience has shown that non genuine can be (and often are) absolute rubbish. New set of shocker bushes I fitted that were totally shot in about 150 miles, for example...
I also only use genuine for bits that are hard to get at or have expensive consequences if they break e.g. timing belt (though I think Dayco actually make the Genuine ones?), some oil seals (such as rear crank, and the ones under the timing cover). Exception to that rule is clutches, decent branded clutch kits are fine (Borg & Beck etc)
Many other bits such as Wabco vacuum pumps, Bosch starter motors, Magneti Marelli alternators, Lockheed brake servos, Timken bearings, to name but a few, are the same part as Genuine but without that bluddy expensive box that the LR ones come in! In some cases (Bosch starter motors for example) the part actually comes with a Land Rover logo branded into it and you don't get much more genuine than that
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When I said D2 I was meaning the "early" D2 headlights 99-02MY not the 03MY> four eyed ones. The early ones are, AFAIK, the same shape and fitting as the 300Tdi ones (ie a straight swap for those) they just look nicer IMHO
I don't like the new four eyed headlights at all.
If you need some photos of how the S2 ones in mine fit in/fix on I could do some if reqd.
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In a word
HOT
That's four words
Hot - and also hot for gearbox/tbox/axle oils if possible as well, quicker, you get more of it out if v thin and it also takes all the gunge out with it
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Why don't you go the whole way and use the lights off a Series 2 Disco, the "shadowed" edges look nicer
Not sure what else you need sorry
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Yes!!
It is the one and only time I am a football fan, when we are beating the Argies, otherwise I can't stand the game
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You're repeating yourself Nige
As I've said before there's nothing wrong with it, its just a different shape to when it left the factory. Only a couple of weeks since I last used it in fact - on the Blue Mountain trip (better than being pulled out by a Pajero, which in any case was stuck in the same ditch right next to me, and all the others were wetting themselves at getting me stuck in almost exactly the same spot as last time we were in that area
)The limitation is the spade size not being big enough for v soft ground - but I worry if I doubled the spade size I'd start breaking something else, hence the interest to see what this "tractor proof" (mwahahahahahahaha evil cackle) one looks like
Moglite is gonna be along with a stick soon as we seem to be drifting eversoslightly OT again
Drifting back on topic, and accepting that I'm not going to do the mod anyway, what's the verdict on portal axles for very soft ground, or are they more a tree stump hopping sort of thing? I can see they would help, as you wouldn't be dragging diffs etc until much later, but I can also see you might end up "a lot more buried" if you ventured into ground that didn't have anything solid for 6 feet below ground level?
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Ooh, I hope its STRONG
Bogbuster Anchor Stress Testing And Rapid Destruction Ltd at your service. Free anchor elongation and 3 dimensional spade bending services available
Good acronym too - must work on the corporate logo
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Treestumps will up root and run away when they see your armour very tidy solution
DeforestationDicky
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We have developed a monster version with a 2 foot wide blade that stopped our tractor on test. Intention was that we would take it only on events with realy soft ground (highland enduro etc). However it's far better (in our opinion) to the std size ones. Now we can winch up 95% of hills just on the winch.
Be interested to see some pictures of that, living as I do in a land with no trees and lots of peat bogs
Be interested in a price too.... I can pull both my anchors out at the same time (chained together) with the Milemarker without any bother so anything bigger is definitely of interest
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We will remember them
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And thats with next to no power going up, and next to no engine compression on the way down
Richard you need to amend your signature - clearly the bit about going anywhere slowly is not correct if you are going down a hill then
the bit about noisily and expensively might be right by the time you hit the bottom though? -
I think what Andy was saying is that a Td5 has been proved to be capable of a 60% or so power and torque hike so those sort of increases are possible.
Me, I'd be happy enough with an ordinary 2.8!
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after going to the trouble of removing the box to try a seal I think replacment would be my prefered choice.
as it doesn't look like the best of jobs.
thanks for all the advice BTW.
leak seal first thing tomorrow, and check for free play.
If it is still the original box which I presume it is if you say it has done 125k, the internals might be getting pretty tired/slack anyway so a refurb box may be the best solution in your case if the leak stopper doesn't. My 90 only had about 60k miles on it when I had it done.
It is also probably fair to say that doing the seals "right first time" is one of those things that you get better at with regular practice which is one reason why mine get delegated to somebody else - getting the new seal in without damaging it if the sector shaft is scored is a bit of an art, and very likely to be something you wouldn't get right first time
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I would try seal first as Nige suggests but take the box out to do it so you can put it in a vice and work on it comfortably, working upside down with fluid dripping in your ear just doesn't work and you will never get it all nice and clean before fitting the new seal. I've not done it first hand but seen lots done at work, they usually only fail again if the sector shaft is badly pitted or grooved and chews the new seal up, success rate is probably 80%+. Seal kit about £30 odd I think, probably another part where Genuine is the only type worth bothering with.
For some reason if you leave them leaking for a while the shaft seems to get grooved, no idea why, so best to try and fix it sooner rather than later. I've just had my Disco steering box re-sealed, seems OK at the moment, also had the old 90 done about 18 months ago, first attempt P'ed fluid everywhere, second attempt fixed it, even 2 seal kits was cheaper than buying a new box!! and the seal track on the sector shaft of that one was really, really bad but cleaned up "sort of OK" with very fine sandpaper.
The other thing to watch for is that sometimes the seal can leak because the bottom bearing collapses and so the sector shaft is waggling around in the bottom of the box. And if that happens the steering could suddenly lock up mid corner which I imagine would be quite interesting....
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Can you get radio mikes with built in 'Anti-Anglosaxon' filters ?
Nige
You could connect the PTT switch on the mike, to the horn circuit?
For some reason I am thinking of the 2004 Slindon video at this point
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The only thing to watch with intercoolers is to fit one that has a low pressure drop. There's no point fitting a HUGE intercooler that cools the air right down but means most of the boost pressure is lost as you'll only loose performance.
Erm
how do you find that out then? I've never seen figures quoted for that?
I suppose you can up the boost a bit to compensate, but the only easy place to measure boost (without drilling holes etc) is at the turbo. I remember in the Tdi tuning thread on LRE that Jon Roberts said something about drilling and tapping the manifold and putting the wastegate hose to that so it only opened when the manifold pressure got to 1 bar, I suppose that would be one way round it.
just as well with the cost of the bluddy thing! 
. I have come across problems with non-gen fuel filters blocking prematurely, where Gen ones don't (our fuel here is "a bit variable in quality") but on the whole the good brand name ones are fine.
oils which one do you use
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
stops the wipers from squeaking