allinger

To quote Mr Manuel, of Fawlty Towers fame - "I know naathin!" How would one go about checking fuel vaporisation?

To the point - '74 Series runs fine while cold. Then after a stop (or after getting warm) it sort of loses momentum. To the point where I have to revv it hard to keep all 4 fireing. At, for instance, a stoplight... And once it drops, it drops to two or at best, three cylinders. Then, as it gets revved up in first gear (clutch out) it sort of kicks in. Until it doesn't... Now, I'm starting to work through the fuel-electricity-air equation and so far I've: - Rebuilt the carb. With proper Zenith parts - Gone from points to electrical breaker - Gone from mechanical to electrical fuel pump - New coil, contacts and wires - Cleaned the air filter and replaced the oil - Replaced all the hose clamps to all the pipes. All of them... And still it's giving me this "#¤&¤%/&/. I'm at the end of my wire here! What's next? Plugs? Plug wires? Firebomb? Any and all input appreciated!

Millenium hand and shrimp - is all that's happened in this thread my near future?...

I really do wear my ignorance as a badge, don't I... Unfortunately the only thing I saw yesterday was red... I'll look for potential damage during the w/e - it's well dark by the time I get home and honestly, I've had my fill of crawling around under cars for this week I'll do that, then. Thanks!

Transfer output I didn't even give a thought to. After having spent a couple of hours on my back under the car, on wet and gritty tarmac, in the light of a headlamp, following a 10k bike commute home and not having had any dinner, I guess my mechanical aptitude was taken down yet another notch. I'll give that a shot tonight! However, there's still the tinkly-nose and selecting-gear-without-declutching issues to deal with. And CwazyWabbit - as crazy at it might sound a ripped-out pressure plate would really, really make my day. At least when compared to the alternative, that is... Thanks for the input!

Yesterday wife calls up, all upset, and says that as she was driving to work, something started rattling horribly under the car. After a minute or two of driving, there was this tremendous bang and then she was unable to get the car (-99 Defender 110) in gear, so had to leave it by the curb. Knowing her, at times, alarmist attitude towards the motor I took the news with resonable calm - however, given that the car is 11 years old and has 22k on the clock I started looking into possible symptoms, clutch, DMF etc. After having sorted a helping hand to tow the thing home and starting towing, there was this massive clanging noise from under the car. The gear-box side propshaft joint had disintegrated and now the propshaft proper was resting on the frame. Well - that explained the noise at least. And before any well-meaning and instructive comments are posted - yes, in the back of my head I knew that the propshafts need lubricating - but I never got around to it. Believe me, I spanked myself raw with sharpened credit cards all last night... As for the symptoms - and hopefully some comments to them - I now have a car in which I'm able to select any gear, without de-clutching. Which is not a good thing. With the engine on and a gear selected I get tinkling noises from the gearbox/bellhouse area. Since everything else has been going smashing lately, I suspect that the tinkling noise is the result of something in the gear- or transfer box having gone kaputt. Other than that - could it possibly (hopefully) be clutch-related? I'm now in the process of sorting out a shop that will do the labour and allow me to supply the parts, as they charge a pint of blood and your firstborn for spares in this wretched country (trying to point a finger at the clutch yesterday, I found out that the local suppliers charges GBP 375 for a clutch kit and GBP 740 for a DMF ). Then to pull the trigger... And should I have to down gearbox way, I at least know what to give the kiddies for x-mas - "Oooo, look! Santa gave you a nice broken propshaft! You can use that to beat the snot out of the other kiddies at kindergarten..."

Now this is sort of scary - in the final stages of doing a 2.25-iffy-carb-to-Megasquirt-install I'm in need of resistance values for the temp sender (and yes, I know that it's unsuitable for the application...) and here Mark's updated a three year old thread with the exact values I need! Brilliant! Thanks Mark (now to organise the GF bit... We're having a bit of a wedding over here in Stockholm in the weekend, posh bridesmaids en masse )

Following some fiddly soldering, head-scratching and cussing, I now have a perfectly servicable MS1v3 on the workbench - although I nearly gave up before the first turn, as yours truly managed to solder the DB37 to the bottom of the board. Lucky it was only 37 pins to de-solder... However, after that it was clear, but slow sailing - and now I'm really in position to appreciate the recommendation for a magnifying glass when working And playing with the MegaStim is strangely satisfying, what with the 80's graphics and all That said, I now have a couple of questions for the MS-savvy out there - my intended solution is to have a 36-1 wheel and a VR sensor do the pickup and the MS drive a VW coilpack directly. However, due to a recent snag I'm unable to get the wheel and sensor in place, so in order to get the show on the road I'm working on the idea of using the dizzy to do the pickup for the time being. So, to my questions: 1) it is possible to do so, isn't it? 2) assuming a Lucas dizzy, would the correct connection be dizzy LT-lead to pin 24 (TachIn) on the DB37? 3) having RTFM I've understood that "advance" needs to be "locked out" - meaning what exactly? Remove the vacuum advance unit? Jam something shut? And also (according to MS Extra) the dizzy has to be re-phased "so that the trigger happens at say 60BTDC but the rotor is pointing to a tower at 20BTDC". Now, I've read the LR repair handbook cover to cover and no savvier am I... 4) anything else I've missed (apart from jumpering the board correctly etc.)? If anyone could help clear this up for me I'd be one step closer to the end AND very thankful as well!

The p.o. of my truck made the same observation on the gaskets as well. Along with "and the choke spindel didn't fit, so had to use the old one..." it left me with a less-than-perfectly working carb. Entertained the idea of trying a re-build, but given that a genuine overhaul kit is close to the same price as an entire Zenith carb (priced at LR Series website) that idea was quickly scrapped. I decided on the road less travelled:-) Pricier - yes, but hopefully worth it in the end...

Had a look at those and as I can recall they are a 3X1 option right? What was your solution to the middle seat? Given that there's a full set of passengers in the 2nd row more often than not (kiddie seats and whatnot), I'd like to have a three-point belt there as well.

The ballast has issues with leg space. Are there pieces of collective wisdom that could be shared? Every once in a while I get to ride second row... It's not that comfy to be honest, and so I would like to know if there are others out there who have managed to fab a better 2nd row placement.

Connectors all done... and then the coil... Found a mention en extraefi and figured I'd give it a go. as well as some relays and stuff The point of no return has sort of been passed... (and sorry for the double post - I still have to work out how to edit previous posts...) And today is the big day - one MS box en route.

Connectors all done... and then the coil... The point of no return has sort of been passed...

I'm making some minor progress here: Firstly the adaptor is now all set - on the fourth or so try. Bolts and fixings and vaccuum ports and what have you caused no end of headache... After a couple of mockups I ended up casting an adaptor from epoxy resin, which is a material that I'm actually able to machine with the poor tools I have. Since I'm as far from a FabMeister that it's possible to get, the thing looks like something the cat dragged in, but at least the important parts are flat as a flat thing and properly lined up. Secondly, I've actually managed to find the time to measure the connections on the TBI to sort out which wire goes where. That said, I suspect that there might be some tinkering to do in order to get the idle engine working properly. And with the connections sorted I tried my hand at adapting the official wiring diagram to my needs. The results of which remains to be seen... Wires next. Funny thing the free market - I got all the wires needed from the UK, at 50% off compared to if I should have bought them at the local, HUGE, electronics supplier five minutes drive away from me in Stockholm. Thirdly, I've think I've worked out how to get the whole thing powered up. Now I realise that this is old hat to those of you with extensive knowledge of cars and their workings, but as my knowledge of using a multimeter was along the lines of "don't poke the pointy things in the eye, 'cause that would really hurt", this is one big step for yours truly. With this knowledge under my belt I went ahead and wired up the main and pump relays, all good to go. Now to find and fit a VR sensor and the toothy wheel - and then to wait for the month to roll over (and getting the associated paycheck) before placing an order for the MS kit and some associated peripherals...

I will not be one for the books! TBI adaptor all set Return plumbing done MS box . still to be built.

That was quite a good find! Thanks!

losing, looosing, lost... And a brainwave on how to attach A to B struck me just now. Details to follow. Now what I need to figure out is how to connect TBI to MS. Anyone with some Bosch savvy?

one golf tbi to go, please... ERE' WE GO' ERE' WE go - excetera...

Hullo hullo, whats going on 'ere then? Due to recent eco-wobbles and related stuff, I've been unable to source stuff, so I fell back to getting present stuff in order. 1: sourced manifold arrived - and in good condition 2: mangle historical-value manifold with good-quality Swedish hacksaw 3: enlist small but evil Khorne warrior to protect results 4; try as best to surface TBI to inlet manifold... Further to Morten's list - Golf III and Passats from the same timespan have very (as far as I know) positive attributes - the jury is out (however there are a couple of dnf projects out there) but a mid-ninties less-than-2-but-more-than-1.5 engine TBI seems to fit the bil.

OK - would a tapped hole in the final part of the exhaust manifold do it or is a bung more the way to do it? I really do suck at this... Oh, and Mr Retro - given what I've seen about your handiwork (and facilities, from the look of it), I have a lot to learn

Guess I could make do with something simpler than stainless then... And by tomorrow I'll be officially ready to start trying stuff out, as the mainfold is to be delivered to my door. Which leads me to backtrack a bit - lambda sensor and it's placement. From what I can gather, the sensor is to be placed below the exhaust manifold, on the first down section. Is this essential, or would it work to have it placed a bit higher up, i.e. on the lowest part of the exhaust manifold itself?

Oh well, I've found a source of stainless. Could do with a decent bender anyhow...

I'm humble in the presence of giants... Putting one's wheels up (along with some cash ) as PoC is impressive. Going back to the TBI foot question - are there any considerations that should be taken into account with regards to industrial plastic and petrol? It'd be pure buggery to have a throttle adaptor do a icecream-lookalike across the manifold... Aaaand another question - fuel return? To the best of my knowledge (and that is an acronym for dodgy online SIII repair manuals) there never was a return line on 88" petrol LRs. And as I wouldn't want Greenpeace parked up my backside by dumping excess petrol by the wayside, what would be the niftiest way of achieving a return line? All rubber? Tap-and-thread stainless? Go-faster aluminum? Cheap-n-easy-but-could-blow-in-you-face-copper? This is all getting so involved. I was really hoping for a slappy-happy system...

A narrowband sensor it is then! I'm getting right clever with the breaker's database by now, so I'll have one at hand in a jiffy... And thanks for confirming my cutting-board theory. I might just use a board for doing a mockup or two, given that IKEA has them on sale. As always... Was there a particular reason for using two parts - other than to achieve heigth/clearance or suchlike? I've managed to find a supplier of industrial plastic, that I hope will be able to provide me with a reasonably large offcut, that I can mate upp to the inlet on the one side and to the TBI on the other. Obviously, since I have neither inlet nor TBI at the moment, the subject is sort of academic at the moment...

Thanks for the coil pack info! I guess I'm really not _that_ concerned about absolute waterproofing, so a "new" coil pack it'll be. And should waterproofing be the flavour of the day, then I'll always have the "latex-gloves-and-zipties" solution in the car As for wideband - that was what I thought all cool kids where using now... Seriously though - I found out that reasonably late model Audis and Volvos have these mounted and that the breakers have them en masse. And don't charge more than pocket change for them. Oh, and a curious thing that I've found out. It seems we're running out of mid-nineties Fords. Sensors, coil packs and other assorted bits and pieces are well more expensive if taken from a -95 Escort than from a -04 Mondeo. If you can find them even ... Law of supply and demand in effect