samc88

Mine started surging momentarily on idle when i took the throttle offto change gear. turned out to be a frctured injector pipe causing air to get in. Of course when the fracture got worse later on it just sounded like it wasnealry going to stall, smooth enough with a bit of throttle though

Have you bled the cooling system properly? An airlock could cause it to overheat

Right bit of an update, some of you ymay have seen her on the cover of classic land rover a couple of months back I've also fitted the spare to the bonnet and dug out my old hubcaps which are a bit of a marmite issue with some people!

If the oil capacity is the same as a Fairey one it should be approximately 0.4 litres (3/4 of a pint)

Looks a lot like a Fairey one except it hasnt got a dipstick

Right, I'll get round to finishing off the gearbox bit eventually, takes more time than you think to write it up. But anyway, some pictures for those who get bored at looking at bits of gearbox, I took her out for a spin today to the breakwater and my brother took these photos

Right back to business, First thing I did was to overhaul the bellhousing. The input shaft was drifted out of the bellhousing (backwards) leaving this: Using circlip pliers, the circlip was removed. This will be replaced. Note: there is a thrust washer under the circlip Holding the input shaft (gently) in the vice, the bearing could be heated up with the blow torch until it fell down the shaft after a slight tap with the mallet The new bearing was heated up with a blow torch until it could be dropped into place on the shaft and the thrust washer was replaced Circlip being fitted using circlip pliers The assembled input shaft. The seal land looks good so no worries there of any pitting ragging the new oil seal The bellhousing casing was rested on top of the vice so there was enough room underneath for the input shaft to drop down. The casing was then heated up until the bearing could be dropped into place The layshaft bearing could then be dropped into place using the same technique (heating the casing up) an the bearing carriers can be put in place (The input shaft bearing carriers are handed) Layshaft bearing cover plate thing goes down with the lip going against the bearing Nuts and lockwasher in place with the tabs being lifted up. You might find putting a prybar through the clutch fork hole and tapping that is easier for lifting the tabs The bellhousing was then wrapped in rags to keep everything clean and put aside till later Now then, rear mainshaft bearing housing overhaul. I started by removing the old oil seal, removing the large circlip which retains the bearing and then drifting out the old bearing The manual says to put loctite on the outer race before fitting to hold into the housing New bearing being pressed into the housing Once the bearing was pressed in and the circlip refitted, I fitted the oil seal (a corteco one) Here you can see the layshaft outer race in position (more on this later), this was done at this point for convenience. Again loctite was used but on the housing itself this time Drifting the housing into place The circlip which holds the housing in place can be refitted

Got the on the roll stuff from paddocks. To fit you can either: a) Find a strip of aluminium to put inside and rivet into place like the original or b) do what I did and glue them on with sikaflex (it is expensive stuff though unless you can get it like I did from work

Right update time, stripping the transfer box! Before removing the shaft, I checked how far into the casing the bearing sits (6mm) as a reference for when I refit the bearing The shaft is first drifted rearwards with a mallet The large circlip is then removed Next I drifted the bearing inner race off the shaft (apologies for the blurry action shot) Then the circlip holding the thrust washer and the gears in place was removed allowing the shaft to removed The thrust washer With the shaft out I could then drift out the other bearing race (This next bit is from my other thread showing the various bits of the shaft) as I forgot to take photos this time "The order the bits are on the shaft Bearing outer race, inner race, circlip holding gears on and thrust washer High gear Low gear Shaft with bearing " Today I sorted out the workshop to get ready for rebuild and immediately set about making a mess sorting out the parts I have Rebuild starts tomorrow

Ask on the facebook forums, probably get a better response there

Thank you Thats very helpful

I would just look at the nut off my old box which is still in the series but its got the overdrive on it at the minute so i cant easily check the measurements without a lot of faffing around. Ta for the part numbers, I use paddocks for a lot of stuff rather than craddocks (unless they have something paddocks dont) always found them too be cheaper and customer service is good too

No I havent got the nut, its missing off the gearbox I'm doing If I had it, then yes I'd do the sensible thing and measure it with my calliper

What are the dimensions please? I.D, O.D and tooth size if its not too much trouble Am rebuilding a gearbox at the minute and think I might as well make up the tool to torque it rather than use a punch and a hammer

Right then, disassembling the mainshaft I strted at the front end and worked back, starting with third gear. The first job to do is to remove the snap ring (basically a circlip but without the helpful little holes to get a pair of pliers in). With help from my Dad I removed the clip with 3 thin screwdrivers, its a bit awkward but doable You can then withdraw the thrust washer and the third gear Then withdraw the distance sleeve and bush Then you can withdraw second gear and the thrust washer as well as the front synchro cone Next I removed the rear mainshaft bearing/ oil seal housing. I had to use a set of pullers for this as I didnt want to damage anything. To dismantle the rear part of the mainshaft remove the thrust washer It has 2 grooves on the forward face (facing the front of the gearbox) First gear can now be removed As can the first gear bush The rear synchro cone is removed As is the first-second synchro hub which looks decent according to my granddad (hes done quite a few of these in the past), it certainly operates freely enough but I think I'll swap the detent springs and things whilst I'm at it and give a good dose of looking at The components split into front of mainshaft and rear, all cable tied together to keep them in order Next attention turned to the bellhousing again. I slackened off the nuts for the bearing carriers at the back of the bellhousing before knocking the bearing through, again using a suitable socket as a drift For the layshaft bearing carrier, the tab washer first needs the tabs knocking flat The nuts can then be undone using a 1/2" socket The lifted off lock washer The rear washer holding the studs can also be removed and the bearing knocked out Thats it for the mainshaft, attention then turned towards stripping the transfer box First task with this is to remove the speedo housing by removing the 6 nuts and spring washers using a 5/16" whitworth spanner again Some of the studs came out with the nuts, as you can see one is longer than the rest to go through the thickest part of the housing The housing can now be pulled off Between the housing and the transfer case are some shims. On my spare transfer box, there were 3 but on this one there are 4 The worm gear. This isnt fixed to the shaft but interestingly it runs off friction Shall carry on with stripping it down tomorrow So far the list of bits to change are: Gaskets, Seals, Bearings, Detent springs and balls, Thrust washers, 1st gear, 2nd gear, 3rd gear, Layshaft, Bushes, 3rd/4th synchro hub (on closer inspection the teeth were worn) Gear lever will get swapped off my old box as will the handbrake back plate and drum