doddel

I urgently need a pedal lock for my 110. My neighbours 90 has been stolen last week (and has been used to commit a crime...) from the same parking lot. I found this on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-Clutch-Br...1QQcmdZViewItem anybody familiar with this brand/seller/lock? better alternatives?

I thought you can only apply a zinc primer on bare metal? I am not going to strip the chassis to bare metal I also bought a can of waxoyl (and a gun) to treat the bulkhead, doors and chassis. Problem is, I live in a flat with chared offroad parking Maybe not a good idea to start playing with waxoyl there... If anybody knows of a place in or around Liverpool where I can do the waxoyl treatment, please let me know

I am trying to find Ozi explorer maps from the Lakes, the Peaks and Wales to use on my PDA. Anybody has some, or knows a source?

I am trying to get my chassis in a better shape. First I will get all the superficial rust off with a brush on an angle grinder. Then I want to paint the chassis. Should I use black underseal, or is it better to use paint? If paint, which brand, how many layers, etc? thanks!

is this guess for the naked vehicule, or equipped as it is? Most 300 tdi's go on ebay for around 6-7K, I think, but never with this degree of overland equipment

shortage of time, really. I'd rather put my engine in this vehicule, and sell mine with the high mileage engine. It will take me a lot of time to get my current 110 to the same cosmetical state as this one (not even considering the overland gear). If I'd do it your way (i.e. taking off the fancy bits of this car), what would it still be worth? So just the naked 110 HT?

some pics:

well, a lot has been done before/during the trip to South Africa (by the current owner): new half shafts and drive shafts, new polybushes all around, new clutch. Vehicule has been (professionally) repainted. The chassis and bulkhead look really good, so I wonder if BT kept this car in a garage ovenight. So, what would be a good offer for this car? And what about my current 110? Maybe I could swap the engines to get started with a lower mileage

Hi, I am in the running for a 1996 ex-BT 110, ready for an expedition (extra fuel tank, water tank, hannibal roofrack with rooftent, shower skirt, solar power, compressor fridge, 2 accu's, etc). It has already been to South Africa overland, and has around 180K miles on the clock. Everything seems fine, engine runs smooth, gearbox is good. Now, is there any reason not to buy an ex-BT car? Also, if I would buy this car, I would sell my current 110. Any idea what that one would be worth? Is a L-reg 1984 110 HT with 300tdi engine (70K miles), 380 gearbox, 2" lift, steering guard, double front shocks. Needs to be repainted. 11 months tax. Chassis and bulkhead ok, doors a bit rusty. Thanks! Thomas

and what sealant do you recommend?

109 SII SW with safari roof

that's why I ask. suspiciously cheap, I would say

these are quite cheap from paddock www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Accessories/Wipac_Crystal_Halogen_Headlamp_Conversion_Kit_(pair) is there a catch? any reason not to install them?

you're most definitely welcome (and I have some freshly imported Belgian beers in the fridge ) I'll PM my contact details the weight I had in the car? Well, I was moving all my stuff from Belgium to the UK, so quite a bit, but most was not very heavy (things like clothes and stuff). O, it did help a great deal when I moved the spare wheel from the rear door to the bonnet (wolf rim, so heavy thing)

I think the gear stick (?, is that English?) look ridiculous apart from that, supposed to be a great engine and gearbox, so enjoy it

well, with high speed, I mean 60 mph. I replaced most of the joints and bushes around the front axle, so that should be OK (radius arm bushes have not been replaced, so maybe I should have a look at those as well) I did leave a lot of weight in the car for a very long time (like 2 or 3 months) without moving the car, so that might have damaged the springs (and shocks?). Also, when heavy loaded, the rear end of the car hangs quite low. I'll have a look at the trailing arm bushes, they look a bit dodgy (and it is a straight trailing arm, whereas I have a 2" lift, so that doesn't do the bushes any good)

I've been told that coil springs don't go bad, and that suspension problems normally come from the shock absorbers. Now I think in my case, the steering problems I have (breaking out of the rear end when coming of the throttle at high speed, especially when heavy loaded) come from weak springs instead of shocks. How can I test this? also, my shocks are from Rock Shox (2" lift). I have tried to find any info on them, but nothing so far. Lots about suspension for MTB's, but nothing about 4x4 shock absorbers...

no worries I'll just try to find something with the maps I'll buy (and maybe talk to local people)

well, I don't even have a gps (yet) maybe a short roadbook description? I'll buy the detailed (1:25000?) maps of the region, so greenlanes should be indicated

Hi, We are thinking of spending saturday (tomorrow) in the Peaks. Just checking out the place for future hikes and mtb tours. Anyway, it would be nice if we could do a little bit of (soft) greenlaning. Any nice and easy lanes there?

very interesting stuff, James now, I was thinking of running my 300tdi on diesel + lpg. Do you know if anyone has ever tried veg oil + lpg? That would be the most ideal combo, given it would work...

thanks and where can you get them?

ok, here's a stupid question: what is OEM stuff, and where can you buy it (via mailorder)?

and how do you do that?

how about tax? don't you have to pay like 47p per liter or so? or not if you mix 50/50 with diesel?