paintman
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Posts posted by paintman
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Got my RRC one from http://www.nationwidetrim.demon.co.uk
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Assuming gear levers in the right positionIf you didn't measure the distance between a straight edge laid across the mouth of the bellhousing and the top of any of the 4 lugs on the front of the torque converter and confirm that it was as specified in Ashcrofts site for your particular gearbox then it is highly likely that you have not engaged the TC with the pump & have split the pump.
Disconnect the line from the oil cooler & with a bowl held under it start the engine. If you get a good flow of oil out of the pipe then the pump is OK. If it doesn't the pump has gone & its box off time again to replace it.
See http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_18.html#pa2 the bit that says 'Installation instructions'
and http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/faq.html#a18 'I have just fitted.....'
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Most garages.
A coolant system pressure test may also show gasket problems.
A compression test may not show a problem, if you have low readings in any cylinder & oil squirted into the cylinder doesn't bring the readings up then it could be a gasket problem or a valve problem. Low readings in adjacent cylinders suggests the gasket may have failed between them, but it will need heads off to check. No other way round it.
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http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/faq.html#a43 the bit that begins "Can I remove the Borg Warner...."
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Solid hoses & throwing water out of the expansion tank are signs there may be a head gasket or liner problem.
Get the coolant tested for the presence of exhaust gases. If they are then its heads off time & fingers crossed its just a gasket.
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If by that you mean rock solid then no.
Is it losing water?
Does it blow water out of the expansion tank when the top is on?
Does the water you can see in the expansion tank fizz like a jacuzzi when the engine is running?
Put a gen stat in as already advised & check the rad is clear. If the rad is original its 18 years old & they do tend to fill with crud over the years which flushing won't shift & the only solution is a replcement rad (NOT a used one as it may be as bad)
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Small bore airlines severely restrict the amount of air available at the tool often meaning the tool won't work properly. Fine for tyre inflators but not much else. The curly plastic ones are the worst offenders.
I have an old CP rattle gun (£15 from a used tool shop, its old but good) that is virtually useless with the curly type line but no problem with a normal 10mm i.d air hose.
The better wrenches will specify a MINIMUM recommended airline i.d & the big Ingersol rands list 3/8", so bigger is better.
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You might have a look at http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/faq.html#a43 first question in the Transfer Boxes section.
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Mine's a Speedglas as well.
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Find one that has already had the engine replaced. They do come up from time to time.
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ive tryed all they other ways of painting it and this way was the only way that worked for me as the jet wash still peeled all the paint off with etching primer no matter what i did
Great way of removing paint. Lots of business from car owners using pressure washers at zero inches from the paintwork suddenly finding that a stone chip has allowed the jet to rip a big chunk of lacquer off.
If its taking paint off its TOO CLOSE.
About a meter (yard for us oldies) on paintwork is close enough.
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I think you do hence the question.
Not part of the MoT so doesn't matter.
Mine's an 86 & the tunnel is welded in.
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U-Pol do an aerosol etch primer called Acid#8.
On ebay if you can't find it anywhere else.
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There will be a LOT of fluid left in the TC. As you will find if you take one off & tip it on its side!
Think the last time I changed the fluid on mine I got about 6 litres out.
If its any help I've just checked mine (86 3.5EFi, ZF box) & with the engine off the fluid level is about 5mm above the high line. Running at idle in 'N' its between the lines.
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Try & get a drive of one that's been done before you do it. Don't think you will be impressed.
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I had a look at replacing the EAS to coil springs - is this the way forward?
Check with your insurers. The vehicle will have to be declared as modified.
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The more connectors you have the more joins you have to give trouble, esp if they are in areas that can get wet.
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Probably a silly question.......but why are the red leds connected to the bit labelled yellow and the yellow leds to the bit labelled red?
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Last one I did was on my RRC.
Got the old one out by beating it with a big lump hammer.
Got the new one in by putting threaded rods into the holes in the carrier & using nuts & washers to pull it into position.
Bl++++ hard work.
But, as I said earlier, next one goes to the local engineers!
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weird as i was told these were a right pig to do
i took my a frame off today to fit poly bushes
undid the nut beat the **** out of it with a hammer on the outercasing to try and shock it loose then used a 4' bar and it popped straight off i was well relived as ive heard many horror storys
Its the getting the ball joint out of the carrier thats the fun part. And then getting it back in & lined up so its retaining bolts fit.
Next one I do is going to get taken to the local engineering shop after I've got it off the end of the frame. They have a HUGE press.
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Seemed happy enough with my business card.
You could always google Halfords & click on the bit that says Trade Card. Tells you all about it & what you need to get one.
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Another odd one to add to the list of unusual LR problems & fixes
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Well done
Auto not working
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Doesn't work like that. The lugs on the gearbox side of the TC engage with and drive the pump.