paintman
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Posts posted by paintman
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Sounds like it will be your best option. If you have an old scrap disco to hand you'll have all the bits you need.
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Also a help if you put a couple of threaded studs into a couple of the holes the connecting bolts go into.
Once the box is on these studs it will slide together much easier & reduces the chance of a slip. Once all fitted & you've got a couple of bolts in remove the studs & fit the remaining bolts.
Used it for years refitting engines & gearboxes to each other after clutch changes & makes it all so much easier & safer. Lengths of threaded rod are a couple of quid from B&Q, just cut a couple of lengths off.
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Could be both. I was lucky & realised what I'd done after the first couple of tightenings. You'll have to take the arm off & examine them.
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Has it been removed & refitted without making sure the master splines lined up?
Easy mistake to make
& you get the loosening arm syndrome as it wobbles its way up the shaft a bit more after each time you tighten it. -
And the vehicle is a ?????
Might this be the case? http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/faq.html#a9
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http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_110.htm
No such thing as a 'daylight MoT' if lights are not fitted or are masked over then is all else is OK you will get a normal MoT certificate. You should get an advisory showing that the lights weren't tested.
Just don't use it in road conditions where lights being on is a legal requirement.
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Sounds like you should get a manual that tells you about that year RR. Then you will know what you're hacking about. http://www.green-oval.com
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Was it running before you changed the fuel lines?
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Looking at the instructions it suggests a new airline. I presume this is to avoid using a manky old airline that could have had God knows what through it.
The suzie type lines are small bore & generally a complete waste of time for other than tyre inflation as they don't allow the required volume of air to pass through.
Wihout seeing it I would guess that you require standard type PCL couplings.
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The K&N reply makes much of 'increase in performance'.
The dirt collection they describe as between 96% and 99%. That is reflected in the 96.8% figure given in the Duramax tests. BUT looking at the filters in those tests most of the paper ones achieved 99% plus efficiency.
Without getting into an argument, the fact that someone uses one for on-road & light off-roading but isn't prepared to use it in serious conditions - the sahara post - says it all really.
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When they get to that state there's not much metal left to weld to!
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Hooray. Fingers crossed that its all sorted.
Out of curiosity did you use composite or the steel shim head gaskets?
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So anybody got an idea why condensors would keep failing? I only bought britpart ones so i might try genuine part next time (if they still exist).
May be your problem.
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And for Orange's box section sills http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=16471 They do look the business & I would suggest they are the way to go.
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Have you adjusted the operating rods?
Mine's an 86 (tailgate not part of the central locking) and it was just a matter of using the adjusters on the rods that go from the centre to each of the latches.
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Top of the page would be a good start 'tool sizes for specific jobs' http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5188
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I expect its the rescue side & the possibility of litigation against you by ambulance chasers that frightens them.
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Have the holes welded up redrilled & retapped.
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Red or more of a purple? Could be silicone brake fluid.
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If it was 100% original, unmarked inside & out with delivery miles only then it might be realistic!
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I also have the cheapie Sealey type (the machine mart one) and have had no problems with it whatsoever. Fine with copper or Kunifer pipe. Note that it should NOT be used with steel pipe.
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You don't have a manual??
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http://www.gerni.com will take you to the Nilfisk-ALTO site who now own gerni.
& you get the loosening arm syndrome as it wobbles its way up the shaft a bit more after each time you tighten it.
brake calipers
in International Forum
Posted
I put ss pistons in my RRC years ago. No problems since. Good advice on the genuine parts seals kits as the metal seal retaining rings can be a PITA in the pattern kits.