paintman
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Posts posted by paintman
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Go to http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php & you'll find manuals in the 'Downloads' section.
Hopefully that will help you with the rebuild.
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HCB072 battery (calcium, maintenance free, 4 years warranty) - RRC 3.5EFI etc - retail just under £100, with card £70.
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LPG by mixer ring or sequential injection? If mixer you should get better results with a BLOS carb. Haven't yet worked out what my fuel figures are as I've only just fitted it, but general performance is MUCH improved.
Will also benefit from advancing the timing for LPG. I've no knowledge of MS but I expect someone that does could tell you!
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Land Rover Ardennes Green is coded as both 413 and HUL. Same colour though.
Depending what make of paint you get you may find there are a number of different shades so bear that in mind when ordering - best checked against the suppliers paint swatches. A quick look at DuPont Cromax (waterbased) formulations shows 3 different ones, the original, a slightly redder one and a slightly yellower one - same variants in their solvent based too.
Spies Hecker Permahyd (waterbased) shows two, original & a slightly bluer one.
Don't forget their interpretation of the original may also be different!
It's a metallic so needs a lacquer over the base colour coats.
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Its the coolant temp sensor. Looks like this http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/6143/3584/21/ETC8496-TEMPERATURE-SENSOR-COOLANT.html The thermotime switch is the one in front of it that makes it difficult to get at.
Thermotime on mine does nothing as the cold start injector is disconnected.
Might also have a look here for checklist suggestion http://www.carelect.demon.co.uk/rrind.html
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Genuine parts dizzy caps fitted?
Genuine parts rotor arms fitted?
If the answer to either or both of the above is 'No' then don't bother doing anything else until you've replaced them with GP ones. I will only buy them from the dealers as there are some rubbish copies out there.
To date, the only issues I've had on LPG have been cured by replacing the spark plugs & a rich on petrol start up issue was solved by replacing the temperature sender (the one that feeds the ECU & is the one behind the easy pone on the top front of the manifold. Part number on mine is ETC8496 & genuine part was about £12)
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From manual:
1. Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance value of each injector winding, which should be 2.4 ohm at 20degC (68degF)
2. Check for short circuit to earth on the winding, by connecting the ohmeter probes between each injector terminal and injector body; meter should read infinity. Renew the injector if the winding is open circuit or short circuit.
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The injectors are not cylinder specific on the 3.5. They open as alternate banks of four & spray fuel into the inlet manifold rather than the cylinder. But would still be worth checking them although as the problem clears after a while I nsuspect the fault is not with the injectors.
Could there be a fuel pressure issue? Does the system hold pressure as given in the manual checklist?
Could there be a valve opening problem?
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Have a look at the joints in the steering column these can stiffen up/seize - especially if they have been wet or you have pressure washed under the bonnet. Use a good penetrating oil.
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Like this sort of thing?
http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Towing-and-Trailers-01909-473749__W0QQ_armrsZ1
or Google under 'trailer anchor plates'
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Dealer for rotor & dizzy cap. (Even though I only get 10% trade discount & can get pattern ones for a fraction of the price) Lots of poor copies out there. You might be lucky & have no problems with a cheapie or you might find you have running probs. Not worth the hassle.
Bosch coils get good comments on various forums.
A search of this forum will bring this up http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=48653
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Best speaking to a solicitor for proper advice!
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Downloads at http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php but I find that the RRC section doesn't go far enough back to be of much use for flapper EFi problems.
I have the LR manual SRR660ENWM which is fine for mine - covers all models petrol & diesel 1986 to 1989 & mine's a 3.5EFi flapper - which IIRC I bought online via the LRO bookshop about 15 years ago.
I also have an early Haynes, but the LR manual is the one to have. IIRC the later Haynes manual is not as goos as the early one.
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It was the water leak thing I was worried about. I would still be inclined to have the system pressure tested to confirm all is OK.
Never did get the answer to 'are the plugs wet or dry'.
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Cold start injector on mine's been disconnected since I got the car (in 1994). Never been any issues starting.
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FWIW - and even though I only get 10% trade discount
- I will only source dizzy caps & rotor arms from the franchised dealer as there are some dreadful copies out there. I use the 'Hot Wires' plug leads (from local motor factors) and have never had any problems on either petrol or LPG - with them. Never used the genuine leads & can't see any reason to re-mortgage for magnecores.
NKG plugs.
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This link shows all generations of Range Rover.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Range_Rover#Second_generation_.281994.E2.80.932002.29
The P38 was not on the market until after 1994.
Once you establish what you've got the you might get answer that will help you.
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You MUST replace cam and lifters together as they wear against each other. If you just do one or the other the old component will eat the new in very short order. Some nice pics here http://www.v8engines.com/engine-4.htm#worncams
Do the chain whilst you're in there, if the cam is worn the chain & sprockets are usuallly as bad.
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Soon as it does it remove & check the plugs.
Are they wet or dry?
Is the wet fuel or water?
Dry & put back in.
Start & run vehicle until as you say it goes onto all 8.
Let it run for a while - to normal operating temp & thermostat opens.
Switch off.
CAREFULLY slacken rad/expansion tank cap to avoid getting scalded - use a large cloth over the cap that completely covers it to stop any ejected water flying into the air - & allow cooling system to depressurise.
Leave vehicle for several hours then refit cap & see if it starts normally on all cylinders.
If it does it may be you have an internal leak & the next thing is to have the cooling system pressure tested.
When you did the gaskets did you check all mating surfaces were flat, that there was no warpage in the heads?
What make head gaskets did you use & which type - normal tin or composite?
Did you replace & tighten all head bolts or leave out the outer rows - the outer rows are the 4 short bolts on each side? (Note that current thinking is to leave them out or just nip up the outer rows as they cause the heads to tip. They were eliminated altogether on later V8 engines which have no holes for them and use the 10 hole head gaskets.) Were the head bolts replaced in their correct holes?
Did you put a small amount of sealant round the water passages that the inlet manifold gasket contacts?
That the vehicle started & ran as normal straight after the rebuild would suggest that everything else is OK. Unfortunately I have met a similar problem on a 3 litre Ford Essex V6 in a Scimitar when non-genuine head gaskets were used - failed after less than 300 miles with identical symptoms to yours.
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Having learnt the hard way my own preference on any vehicle is to use genuine parts head gaskets & I only source them from dealers. Costs a bit more (sometimes a lot!) but removes that nagging doubt.
And as Les says, check all is still true.
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Don't forget that you need to position the rotor arm about 30 degrees anti-clockwise before No1 before putting the dizzy in as when the gears mesh the rotor will rotate due to the gears being cut at an angle.
Whilst you could make any lead No1 and then set the rest from there, why not have it right from the outset?
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DON'T use EP oil in an auto box. Yours needs ATF Dexron 2/3.
More info at http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/faq.html
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The answer is indeed 'impossible to know'. Could go on forever, could go completely as you pull off the drive.
You could consider using K-Seal to see what happens - its one of the few that does what it claims & that's from personal experience - but at some point you know its going to be a gasket replacement job.
Check your breakdown & recovery membership before leaving home!
http://www.kalimex.co.uk/section.html?secpath=01.04.&pgid=17
- I will only source dizzy caps & rotor arms from the franchised dealer as there are some dreadful copies out there.
quiet compressors
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Decide what tools you want to use
Check their air requirement.
That will give you the minimum compressor size you need. Bigger receivers(the air tank)are better.
Belt drive, hydrovane & screw compressors are the quietest, the latter 2 being the best but very expensive & usually 3 phase electrics.
SOME belt drive compressors are able to be run off a 13amp socket but check that they can be safely run off a normal household socket before buying
Ebay is actually quite good to give you an idea of what sort of money these go for. Be sitting down when you look at the screw compressors!