paintman
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Posts posted by paintman
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Don't be tempted to leave the weather sheet off or fail to stick it back down again.
You'll find the footwells fill up with water when it rains if you do.
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OP gives the Febi part number as 23563.
Currently on ebay for around £40ish each.
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From Ashcroft's website:
Q. I have a 4sp ZF, when I select "D" the vehicle won't move, when I select "1" the vehicle moves off. I can then select "D" and continue to drive normally. If I stop I have to start in first again. Why?
A. A sprag clutch has "inverted" and will need replacing. No further damage will occur if you continue to drive but you will need to select "1" every time to start moving. A rebuild is required to correct this.
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions/4hp22-faq-s.html
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On 5/3/2017 at 1:34 AM, Range Rover Blues said:
IIRC the throttle pedal connects to the top so that when it pulls the butterfly opens against the spring. The second cable has a small collet to prevent it slipping too far inside the outer cable, this connects below the throttle shaft so that it is relaxed at idle and pulled out under acceleration.
Yes to the above.
You can tweak the kickdown a little, as long as the cable isn't slack at idle or pulled to the end of its travel at full throttle, you can effect how sensitive the kickdown is.
See the Ashcroft link & it goes into more detail about the effect.
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Posted this yesterday but it seems to have disappeared. Shows a relay removed & a bridging wire installed instead:
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The other cable is indeed the kickdown cable for the auto gearbox. If you have a manual box on the car you don't need it & can ignore it.
If it's an auto you do & Ashcroft say you shouldn't run an auto with the kickdown cable disconnected:
'Set up
If the vehicle is a Disco I or Range Rover Classic under no circumstances drive with the kickdown cable disconnected, as this will cause premature autobox failure.'
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/automatic-gearboxes/zf4hp22.html
Have a read through this thread, esp page 2.
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Model & year?
Is the garage a general garage or a Land Rover specialist with the appropriate LR specific diagnostic equipment?
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Link to LRcat for you: http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1230/76077
If yours is the same as mine - 3.5 EFi with metal tank & low filler - the pump fits into the top of the tank & has a gasket. The pump is held in by a ring of screws. No sealant required.
The level sender fits into the side of the tank & has a gasket. Held in by a metal ring which you turn to give a firm fix. No sealant required.
The fuel pump pick-up is adjustable for length. I replaced my tank some years ago & didn't realise that. Result was that according to the fuel gauge I was low (but with the old tank would have been fine for at least another 30 miles or so) & according to the engine there was no fuel & I came to a stop about a mile from the petrol station I was going to!
I had a chat with the supplier of the tank & we checked the tanks he had in stock. No two were exactly the same measured from the pump hole rim to the bottom of the tank.
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Drop arms are fun aren't they
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Bit more on shortening trumpets & also mentions the insulating plate you have.
http://www.g33.co.uk/tuning.htm (Ginetta G33)
"The Range Rover inlet manifold throttle body has a hot water preheat fed from the water pump. Although you might need this in sub zero temperatures, its really not needed in the G33. At low temperatures the manifold is heated to prevent fuel condensing in the inlet tract, but it also has the adverse effect of heating the air and reducing its density. You may have noticed the car performing well on cold damp morning, and the colder air is the reason for this. The simplest thing to do is simply disconnect the two pipes that provide the preheat just under the butterfly valve in the Plenum chamber. The pipe can then simply be looped between the water pump and inlet manifold take off points.
Another modification involves fitting a thermally insulating plate between the inlet manifold and the trumpet base and are commercially available form some V8 tuners for around £50. This prevents the heat from the engine traveling up into the plenum chamber, and I have seen figures quoted of an extra 10 BHP when the engine is hot. There is a problem with the G33, that the insulation plates raise the plenum chamber by up to 10mm, and this means it wont fit under the bonnet ! The aftermarket plates are made of Tufnell. Blank sheets available on Ebay for a few pounds."
The websites I've looked at which talk about trumpet shortening advise taking the same amount off each trumpet so the relative difference in lengths are maintained.
ETA. Link talks about Tufnell, appears to be a spelling error & should be Tufnol
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Thanks Jon.
Did you do the input and output shafts or just one of them - I'll be doing it on the bench so might as well do both.
Any fitting issues/advice would be appreciated!
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Can't find that gasket on LRCat.
Didn't find a gasket or spacer on mine (1986 EFi) when I had the ram housing off & the LR manual that covers mine (It's the big book, not the RAVE which doesn't cover mine) just says to use Hylomar between the housing & the inlet manifold.
So I'm assuming it's a mod for some reason or other - I've seen articles where shortening the trumpets is supposed to do something so perhaps this is in a similar vein?
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^^^^^.
A classic of that age doesn't have much in the way of electronics to go wrong.
Mine's a 1986. It's an EFi (fuel injected) & apart from that there is nothing else electronically complicated on it. The suspension is coil springs. The seat are manually adjusted.
Mine doesn't have aircon. Does have central locking, but it's key in the driver's door lock operated not by remote.
Mine's an automatic - ZF gearbox - and gear selection is by cable so no electronics. The autos immediately prior to the ZF (approx 1983 on - as in the link) were the Chrysler 3 speed which has the reputation of being virtually bombproof - no electronics. Transfer box is the LT230 - no electronic controls - & you need the seller to show you that it works. Many are never used so the linkage can stick. Usually easy to free off.
Major issue is corrosion. Whilst the outer panels - excluding the bonnet & upper & lower tailgates - are Birmabright all the panels you can't see are steel so a thorough inspection of sills, floors, inner wings etc & the chassis is advised.
I'd suggest trying to find someone who knows what they're looking at to go with you if possible.
This USA site covers many of the common issues, but bear in mind the majority are to do with electronic stuff so aren't relevant to the earlier ones: http://www.rangerovers.net/fixindex.html
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Don't know about the ms side of things but my RRC - 3.5EFi - has been on gas for approx 16 years. Originally on a gas ring in front of the afm (flapper) but I fitted a Blos some years ago & wish I'd done it sooner.
Changeover is by manual switch - I decide when it switches - & no issues starting from cold on either petrol or gas. Plus side of that is that in the event of a running problem I can switch from one to the other. If it plays up on petrol but is fine on LPG (or vice versa) then it's a fuelling issue & if it plays up on both it's ignition.
I don't have a lube system, but do run on petrol from time to time to stop what's in the tank going stale & have MoT'd it on both without problem.
No idea whether it's had any effect on the valve seats but I haven't noticed any odd issues.
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Probably something you aready know, but normal route for the hotwire throttle cable is to the top of the horn (it's the short bit of cleanly cut cable visible in your pic), the unravelling one with the little silver bit crimped onto the cable is a kickdown cable for auto gearboxes & on yours can be binned.
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Suggestion.
Put the plenum back on with the bit you left on when you cut it & then put the hoses on so you have that part all connected.
Strip all the gubbins off the bit you cut off.
Modify that bit so you can reattach the bit with the cable hole to the rest of the mechanism so the cable can go over the top of the hoses - you'll need to weld that bit in its new place.
If you can't do your own welding or have someone that can do it in situ then I can see where there might be a bit of a problem.
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Thanks Les,
Doing input & output so I'll be doing it off the vehicle on the bench.
I've had no joy here or elsewhere about the Zeus ones.
John
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Bodumatau
The bracket on the back of your plenum is for the hotwire stepper motor which the flapper doesn't have & the flapper plenums I've seen don't have the hole for it, just a small pipe to attach a vacuum pipe
Your throttle linkage is the flapper one - not backwards due to LHD.
The 9th injector on the flapper plenum is on the side directly opposite the air intake, visible on the photo in Nige's post about halfway down the page:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/7010-v8-su-efi-conversion/
I did suggest making up a throttle linkage using the existing hotwire one, much as in the pics on FF's post on the first page.
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Note that the pre-assembled fulcrum bracket http://www.paddockspares.com/fulcrum-bracket.html IS NOT suitable for use with a Boge levelling unit equipped vehicle.
Can't get back into the post to edit it for some reason.
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I'm presuming you mean the one that goes into number 9 - bracket rear axle fulcrum - in this link?
http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1230/69277/69610/5680
If that's the one then it's: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-Classic-Rear-A-Frame-Ball-Joint-ANR1799-/201470043460?hash=item2ee88ce544:g:ynsAAOSwZVhWTkgq
Common source of a clunk when pulling away from standing & when taking the foot off the loud pedal for slowing or gear changing. When they start to clunk they're well worn! Check by using a lever between the diffhousing & the a-frame. Should be little or no movement.
The balljoint is available on its own as above or also pre-assembled into the fulcrum bracket : http://www.paddockspares.com/fulcrum-bracket.html
They can be a bit awkward to get the pin end out of the bracket on the axle (on mine the axle bracket is part of the axle & not removable), but the fun starts when you try & remove the balljoint from the fulcrum bracket. Don't even think of trying to do it on the vehicle, remove the fulcrum bracket. The ball joint is pressed into the fulcrum bracket & after you've removed the bolts you can either use a press to remove it & press the new one in OR batter it out then use longer bolts or threaded rod to wind the new one in. They are VERY VERY tight & if you don't line the holes up to get the bolts in then you have no chance of just twisting it a bit once it's in. I've done two & the first was by the batter method & the second with a press of the bottle-jack-in-a-frame variety(which I'd treated myself to for another job)
Batter method here: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/a-frame-balljoint-renewal.110342/
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Had a look at mine.
Flapper plenum doesn't have a stepper motor or the hole for one. I don't know what issues there might be with the position of a stepper motor and the flapper linkage assembly.
Flapper plenum has a ninth injector - on the offside upper face of the plenum - for cold start. Disconnected mine by unplugging the electrical connector when I bought the car & have never had an issue.
Distance between the top bolts centres that hold the linkage to the plenum are 73.85mm.
The bottom two are closer together with the one nearest the plenum being more or less directly under the butterfly spindle & the other is about 35mm towards the hose end of the plenum with one being slightly lower than the other.
The bolt positions look the same as in your post 'And removed linkage' so I think it likely that the flapper one will fit.
Go back to Nige's pic & look at the jubilee clip on the hose from the plenum. Go straight back from that towards the bulkhead for about 1cm & you'll see the back part of the linkage mount. Mine has a horn projecting towards the nearside which mounts the outer cable of the kickdown cable. Looks like Nige has cut that off to avoid it fouling the metal pipe. Not a problem & with a manual box it isn't required so you can cut that off but I would suggest you leave the bit bolted to it that goes to the plenum whilst you do it to avoid further embarrassing posts
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Don't know. Looks like Nige has fitted one to a 4.5 plenum though. Wonder if the basic threaded holes for mounting the linkages are the same in all the plenums?
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That's the 3.5EFi flapper linkage - I'll have a look at my RRC in the morning when it's light to confirm. Don't have a camera on my phone so I can't do a pic.
The first plenum pic in this thread looks the same :
rangerover classic air suspension modification (lorry valve)
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Do you find the modified one is now better than when it was on its original system?