paintman
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Posts posted by paintman
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Put £30 of petrol into my Sprinter van. Realised when it started coughing & spluttering. Got recovered to a trade customers premises where I drained it.(Didn't get the tiddle taken - much!) Got used in the RRC.
Was lucky to get away with it as petrol usually does the fuel pump on Sprinters.
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Land Rover factory workshop manual.
Either in the RAVE CD format ( available on ebay) or in paper manual format for pre-1990 RRC (they also appear on ebay from time to time, its publication number SRR660ENWM Range Rover all petrol & diesel models 1986 to 1989)
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Take the propshafts off.
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Having tried both on the same car 3.5 EFi LPG RRC(no, not at the same time!) - genuine twin Kenlowe & original factory fit viscous - I wouldn't bother again.
With the kenlowe's I noticed NO difference in fuel consumption and NO difference in warm-up from cold.
There was a reduction in noise from under the bonnet, but not noticable in the car.
Main advantage would be to anyone who frequently deep wades, you can turn the fan off & avoid throwing water over the engine.
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You need to check for leaks instead of just assuming the pump has had it.
Check the lines to the air bags & the bags themselves, they tend to go where they fold over themselves.
Here's a link to rangerovers for you. Have a thorough read through & the links in the article & then have a look at yours.
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Another vote for the rad.
When I replaced mine I was rather surprised at the difference in weight between the new & the old
Externally it looked fine, fins all there & not clogged but it was full of carp!
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Thicker flat sheet?
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But at least they would be telling the truth
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Now if the guarantee was that the parts wouldn't fit......
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If you've had hard fault shown you'll need it hooked up to testbook or similar to reset or it won't play.
Have a look here:
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/airsuspension/index.html
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What fault codes are showing on a diagnostic check?
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I think that is what I had in the rattle cans, I know it had a hardener as I had to use it within a certain time frame or it would go off.
Is it recommended for painting a whole car?
Its what it was painted with when it was built - depending when it was built that is!
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If the battery is low/flat then you need to fully charge it with a battery charger. Don't expect the alternator to do that - they're not actually designed to recharge flat batteries and if you keep asking it to you will need a new alternator as well.
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"I replaced my followers with brand new ones and it made no difference,"
Without replacing the camsahft as well I'd be surprised if it did. Go & have another look at the RPi link I put.
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HVLP = High Volume Low Pressure. Type of spraygun. Large volume of air at low pressure - I typically apply basecoat and clearcoat (lacquer)at less than 10psi at the gun compared to 30psi plus with the old guns - means that more paint arrives on the panel than the old systems. Small compressors generally unable to keep up with air demand & you have to keep stopping which is not a good idea.
There are some setups on sale which combine a compressor unit (turbo something?)and gun but I've never used one, only conventional compressor with HVLP gravity feed guns.
With any paint you intend to use you must get the Technical Data Sheets from the supplier. These will give you all necessary information on using the paint e.g air pressure, fluid tip size, amount of thinner/hardener etc.
Cellulose can still be found, esp on ebay.
2k acrylics are in current use. 2K means two component & that's the material itself plus hardener.
You will have either a solid colour or a metallic/pearl/effects colour.
Solids.
Generally you mix the paint with appropriate quantity of hardener & thinner & apply. Usually as 2 coats. Shiny from the gun & with experience & practice no need for further work other than removal of minor nibs.
Metallics/pearls.
(Applied in two stages,the colour coats which dry matt and are then clearcoated over to protect & give the shine.)
Colour coat applied - now usually water based (as in water is the solvent)& hot air blown over panel to flash off the water, movement of air across the panel(s) being required. Solvent based can still be found & heat is used to flash the solvent off. Must then be lacquered - normally 2k lacquer which requires hardener to be added before application. Usually 2 clearcoats.
Just to muddy the water, solids can also be applied the same way as the metallics - base coat then clearcoat.
Single pack clearcoat & non-isocyanate 2-pack clears are available but are generally not as hard - or petrol proof - as iso.
Isocyanate does NOT contain cyanide - a popular myth. It is also absorbed primarily by inhalation of vapour/paint mist not via the skin round the eyes etc. See the attached pdf.
Exposure to any paint mist is not recommended. Occupational asthma is a main risk for professionals. Proper air fed respiratory equipment should be worn.
This is the HSE guide for SMART repairers. As it covers spraying outside a booth I think it is more relevant for the home sprayer
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I'd be amazed if you got them professionally done cheaper than that.
I do SMART repairs for a living & hate alloys with a veangeance. They are a PITA to work on, and very time consuming. Unless I am VERY VERY quiet I point any enquirers towards one of the wheel specialists. The wheels on mine are getting tatty & bubbly (3-spoke RRC standard alloys)& they'll be going to a specialist!
If you do want to do a quickie job yourself just to tidy a set of knockabouts get them beadblasted (NOT grit)then just paint with whatever you have to hand. By all means try paint stripper but I suspect you'll get fed up very quickly!
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You never ever change just the cam or just the tappets on the Rover V8. They wear together against each other so must be changed as a set. The old component will trash the new in very short order & it may well make little difference to the original problem. Your mechanic has given you very bad advice.
Have a look at this link from RPi:
http://www.v8engines.com/engine-4.htm#worncams
Don't be tempted to use cheapie tappets - genuine parts only!
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When fitting the drop arm to the steering box be sure to line the splines up correctly - there is a 'master' spline & if you don't line it up the arm will still go on & will seem to be tight with the nut & lockwasher on but will continually work loose during driving.
Guess how I found that one out
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Bit more here - its a link from rangerovers.net
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Never heard the 'must come up x clicks one'
Look like the tester's manual hasn't either!
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A thread from a while ago looking at the legal side of dollies & 'a'-frames.
Have a look through the following links.
Dollies can only be used to recover a vehicle from its broken down location to - effectively - the nearest place of safety. That doesn't mean halfway across the country! You may bring up the subject of the dollies used by many AA vehicles, but in the links below you will note they are regarded as 'specialist breakdown vehicles'
An A-frame is viewed as a trailer and a trailer with a weight over 750kg must be braked. With very few exceptions (the caratow link but if your car is damaged then unlikely this would be of any use) an A-frame will not comply with the law other than the removal to a place of safety aspect.
So you will need a proper trailer to remain legal. And you will need to comply with the driving licence requirements for trailers....
http://www.recoveryuk.com/laws.html (Essex Police 'Breakdown vehicle' 'Recovery truck' 'driving licence requirements')
You could of course chance your luck, but if you get a prohibition notice it makes life a bit difficult!
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The Bosch coils are the ones usually recommended on a lot of the forums.
Have a read through this http://www.go-lpg.co.uk/hints.html
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Think you'll find the round bit of the 'rivet' just pushes through (& falls inside the sill) then you can just pull the rest out.
If you can get the centres out again then you can reuse them! If you're repairing holes then just put a piece of plastic tube on the end of the hoover & suck them out. (or drill a suitable hole then use a rubber grommet to fill it again) Worked for me on a RRC
and you'll probably be frightened by the amount of rust scale you get out as well If you need to buy them, I think these are what you need http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DISCOVERY-SILL-TRIM-RETAINING-CLIPS-SET-OF-40_W0QQitemZ370122553183QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item562d05f75f
The Disco 2 uses these, use a screwdriver (unless you have a proper trim tool) to lever the centres back Then the whole thing will pull out. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-Discovery-2-Sill-Retaining-Rivets-ANR2224_W0QQitemZ290405914150QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxq20100224?IMSfp=TL100224117001r2461
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Alternatively, just drop the whole lot repeatedly on a hard surface from a great height and all will be well. They may not separate, but at least your frustration will be vented!!
:lol:
and you'll probably be frightened by the amount of rust scale you get out as well
v8i starting problems
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Check that your battery is fully charged - preferably by putting it on a battery charger - so it rules that out as a problem.
Check that all earth straps are in good condition - try connecting a good quality jump lead directly from battery earth terminal to a clean point on the block & see if that makes any difference.