TSD
-
Posts
1,144 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
14
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by TSD
-
-
Don't know if they are still easily or cheaply available, but the bottle jack supplied with Merc Sprinters has a usefully long multi-section ram, but looks like the standard LR jack at a glance. I've used one to jack Unimog portals before - though I'm not sure what size tyres it was wearing.
At one time there were lots on ebay because fleet operators removed them from the vans. A lot of D3 owners bought them because the LR supplied scissor jack is lethal. ISTR @FridgeFreezer has one for his 109?
-
3 hours ago, Ed Poore said:
Well okay I was being a bit facetious, you probably can make a lot of 300 components fit and vice versa but from my research a few years ago if you got two "new" engines of either they wouldn't share many common part numbers.
Glancing over the parts catalogue, for the 2.8 I reckon about 50% of the parts still have LR part numbers. I think that's not bad for an engine that's been redesigned with different crank, cam, pistons, rods, turbo, and which was never fitted in a LR engine bay.
(It's actually not much higher for the HS2.5, and that *is* a 300tdi, except for not generally living in a LR engine bay.)
Many of the other parts are identical, but locally sourced, or are redesigned to address some issue, but LR parts will just fit instead.
On the other hand, no, they are troublesome rubbish and you should stay well away from them. In fact if you know where any real original 2.8TGVs are sat around in the way, let me know, I'll be round in the morning with the trailer to clear the problem away for you
-
1
-
1
-
-
-
GPS driven speedo isn't road legal in the UK (or wasn't, last time I looked). Not that you can't have one of course, just that it doesn't qualify as a speedo.
More importantly, that speedo exceeds the total 'nasty plastic chrome' allowance for my entire fleet.
-
2
-
1
-
-
Just searching for "Land Rover 79123" turned up loads of links, several with the correct description.
-
Most of the names I've heard used will be filtered by the forum auto-censor, but it looks like LR calls it "79123 Clip - Pipe, single"
-
1
-
-
If it was leaking from the seat washer, I'd expect it to be black and sooty from all the combustion gases. (Unless it's really bad, but then you'd have a massive misfire). Often you can hear it, and feel it if you hover your hand over the injector when idling.
Any time I've had the fuel pipe weeping, it left a clear bead of diesel in the groove between the top nut and the pipe, so quite easy to spot if you dry everything off first.
I'd be looking for a leak from the spill rail union as the most likely suspect.
The other place I imagine it *could* leak, though I've never seen it happen, is if the injector body has unscrewed from the nozzle and not done back up tight? I've seen injector bodies unscrew if they put up a fight when being removed - I think I've got one doing that in my spare engine at the moment, but I haven't got round to checking if 6 months bathed in ATF has helped at all
-
1
-
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Slightly more affordable, I notice there's another new Lego Defender ... https://www.lego.com/en-gb/product/land-rover-classic-defender-40650
Better colour too
-
3
-
1
-
1
-
More comfy than welding sandals
-
2
-
-
Check one of the terminals hasn't backed out of the connector when you plugged in the new relay.
You said you were changing the relay because the terminals were corroded. Sounds like you didn't clean the wiring side completely, or the terminals have loosened due to heat.
-
I have the DTI etc., but since I can't drive it on the road yet,I'm not inclined to tune it until then, so I know what state everything else is in
-
I have to give top marks to Advanced Factors once again
Ordered a wheel bearing online for the D3 at 9.20AM, hoping it would be here for the weekend.
Delivered at 1pm
I'm only about 10 miles from them, so probably well within their van routes, but well worth a thumbs up.
-
I'm in the same situation, and have had the same debate with myself. My engine doesn't have EGR, but the pump was built for an engine with EGR. I have timed it to the EGR setting, but I'm tempted to advance it. It runs very smoothly and quietly, but it seems just a tad 'flat' - though it's been years since I had a standard 300tdi to compare it to. The car isn't on the road yet though, so any playing will wait until it's registered and on the road.
(The 2.8TGV is a very similar engine mechanically, and without EGR from the factory, but the specified pump lift is 1.44mm. Not sure that adds anything, I just include it for interest.)
The guy who rebuilt my pump said keep it at 1.4, but I don't think I agree.
-
7 hours ago, Daan said:
No experience with these people, but I know of others who have used them:
Jansen once fitted a starter motor for me at 5am on a Monday morning in their workshop, when they (and I) had been driving all night from Germany.
A bit random as recommendations go, but service like that deserves a mention
-
4
-
-
There are two common pinouts for the common ISO Mini 5 pin relay. One has 85 & 86 on opposite sides (Type B), the other has 30 & 85 as the 'single' terminals on opposite sides (Type A).
Were you looking at the bottom of the relay, or at a printed diagram? A diagram might be drawn as viewed from above or below, and for a Type B, this would look like 85 & 86 were swapped. It sounds obvious but I've seen (and made) this mistake a few times.
Either way it won't matter, terminals 85 and 86 are the coil, so the important thing is that the relay is wired so the diode is NOT conducting (it is there to protect the rest of the car from any spikes created by the relay when it switches off).
That should be with 85 connected to ground and 86 to 12V when 'ON', but it depends on both the relay pinout being right, and on Boomslang wiring their harness the right way around.
Personally I'd avoid buying relays (or just about anything else) at Halfords, it only encourages them. Any half decent motor factors will match the relay for you in 10 seconds.
Or you could put your mind at rest by using Halfords 'We Fit' service...
(Sorry, that pic never gets old!)
-
1
-
3
-
-
1 hour ago, Phill S said:23 hours ago, AlWorms said:
What is your main reasoning for not wanting flow to the heater core all the time?
Aah - that's to do with how I think I want to implement the heating/aircon. My wintertime project. Along with the new paint job. And the suspension overhaul. And the and the and the........
A good question for @TSD though!
Ibex has no bulkhead vents panels and the windows are sliding panels like a Series, so there limited cool air into the cabin. Neither of mine has a shutoff flap in the heater box (by design) so even with the diverter set to cold, the airflow still gets some small amount of warming from the heater core. Shutting off the heater core is just one more experiment.
-
1
-
-
The original pic I saw of this, it was parked at the fence at some race meet or similar, with them all sat out on the deck, in the sunshine, 10ft above the crowds. That part seemed like a genius use of a cheap truck.
I kind of assumed the fit out and write-up would be drivel (because most of them are) and so I didn't bother to read it
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Maybe you should install a sky lounge?
On a slightly more down to earth budget, I thought this guy had the right idea ... https://www.insider.com/diy-renovation-tiny-home-pilot-airplane-truck-before-after-photos-2023-4
-
1
-
-
There's a fair few solenoid operated H valves if you look around. Quality was dreadful on every aftermarket unit I looked at (I bought a few to try out for the Ibex). Ford ones seem to be comically unreliable even as gen parts, so I avoided them.
In the end I settled on a valve from a VW Phaeton, from some online breaker for £20. Design wise, it's not much different to the typical Ford Fiesta valve, but the quality of the materials seems good.
ebay says the part number was 3D0820035, but there are lots of similar units for other cars with different port positions. It think the ports were slightly larger than Defender heater, but close enough to work.
It looks very similar to this one I just found.
As built/used, it's a 3 port valve, but you can take the cap off the 4th port and use it, that's how mine is set up. Downside is that it's really only on/off, not variable.
-
Banana skins only for early 2CV I believe?
Heatshrink is sized unshrunk, and the shrink ratio is usually 2:1 or 3:1 (almost always 2:1 for glue lined). The larger size you use, the thicker the 'boot' you end up with (and the easier it is to fit it).
Vaseline keeps air and moisture away from the junction where the two different metals meet, and will stay there for decades if not heated too much. It also tends to stop moisture wicking up the insulation jacket and corroding the copper further up.
-
1
-
1
-
-
After we've had 'crimp vs solder' for the n-th time, can we have a rerun of 'grease or oil for the swivels'. Haven't seen that one for a while
Vaseline on the wire tails before you crimp!
-
1
-
1
-
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
I was hoping to send 2Bex for IVA all in one piece... but if I can do it one bit at a time...
-
6
-
Welding cable should be rated for (I think) at least 105deg continuous, and higher temp versions are available for a price.
Like Fridge, I'd sleeve it. I bought a metre of this heat sleeve years ago, but since you don't usually need much I've just used the last piece, which I think is the 4th vehicle I've put it on.
-
Would you like to borrow a Td5 speedo that gives a better reading? I could set speedo reading (and mileage if needed) and you'd have it on Wednesday. Or even Tuesday if I can find the programmer!
Permanent usb power source
in International Forum
Posted
While you are taking note of the very small risk of the power supply bursting into flames, don't ignore the potentially much larger risk of a permanently powered lithium ion battery hidden away and forgotten. In the past couple of years I've found three (*) hidden away in various parts of my office, all worryingly swollen. And they were all in a benign environment, and not being charged. I didn't notice the battery swelling in the mapping tablet in the Ibex until it was pressing on the screen so hard it changed the colour in the middle of the screen.
Not super dangerous, but certainly an increased risk, and I'd be far more worried about that than the risk from random ebay electronics that didn't die within the first few hours of use. I'm not saying don't do it, just another thing to consider.
(*) - #1 was in old camera, and had and had swelled enough to burst the outer casing.
#2 was on the circuit board of a former colleagues abandoned project.
#3 was the worst - contained in a parcel of 'treasure' from a customer having a clearout. What appeared to be a box full of large LiIon battery chargers turned out to include 1 LiIon battery, about the size of a motorcycle battery, and somewhat(!) swollen.