tychoS
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Posts posted by tychoS
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I've done several cambelt changes over the years using a torque wrench in the same style as the one in the picture by Retroanaconda above.
Mine was obtained from a reputable auto-parts store local to me, however it does not sport a fancy well-known brandname.
So far no problems.
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According to the "Parts Catalogue Land Rover Defender 90 110 130 1987 to 2001", the front hub can have the following partnumbers:
FRC6139 to KA930455
FTC942 from LA930456
I do not have a Discovery I parts catalogue to hand.
The number HTC1236 that you mention, is not included in the index in the parts catalogue and it does not show up in searches.
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DII 2002 V8 4,0 Motronic
When pushing the engine to perform, it misfires badly.
Eg. when trying to accelerate briskly from 100 to 130 km/h, the engine will most often misfire, loose its will to accelerate, and only reach say 115 km/h. When cruising at 110 km/h it will sometimes start to misfire and the speed drops down to 100 or 95 km/h. At other times it will happily drive at 110 or 130 km/h for quite a while without misfiring.
Replaced during 2020 by myself: camshaft(LR), hydraulic lifters(LR), timing chain(LR) + sprockets, injectors (Bosch), sparkplugs(NGK)
The camshaft was well past its prime, as were the other parts. Replacing all these parts took the engine from undriveable to working ok, unless I push it above say 75% or so. I did the replacements in increments, and each increment made the engine perform significantly better/less badly.
So whats likely to be the next step? I could keep on replacing parts, the next step would be either the ignition coils+leads or the lambda+maf sensors.
But I am wondering if the problem could be elsewhere, eg. either the ECU itself or the wiring harness for it.
How to best diagnose?
Nanocom has this sorry story to tell:
P0134 = LAMBDA SENSOR UPSTREAM
CATALYST BANK 1 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 21 TIMES
SIGNAL INVALID
P0172 = MIXTURE ADAPTION FACTOR FRA
BANK 1 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
P0175 = MIXTURE ADAPTION FACTOR
FRA BANK 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
P0300 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 2 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
P0303 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 3 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 64 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
P0305 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
CYL 5 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 64 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
P1000 = EMISSION RELEVANT MISFIRE
CYLINDER 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 2 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
P1000 = LAMBDA SENSOR UPSTREAM
CATALYST BANK 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 7 TIMES
SIGNAL INVALID
P1300 = CATALYST DAMAGING MISFIRE
MULTIPLE CYLINDERS DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 66 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
P1668 = ANTI-THEFT ALARM SERIAL
LINK FAULT DRIVE CYCLE A
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
NA
OCCURED 65 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO LOW
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
NA
OCCURED 193 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO LOW
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
NA
OCCURED 0 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO LOW
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT -
On 12/3/2020 at 1:54 PM, Qhriss said:
Small nozzle on yr Oxy Acetylene torch , get it red hot- it will come out . K
It will most likely come out, but at what price?
You risk ruining the seals and having to refurbish the caliber/brake cylinder.
If you choose to use heat, do empty the brake caliber/cylinder of brakefluid first and leave it open while applying heat. Preferably remove it from the vehicle before applying heat. That means undo the brake line first.
If the brakeline is too far stuck to undo without heat, then most likely you are in for a full refurbishment of the caliber/cylinder anyway.
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3 hours ago, Paddy said:
I never found WD that good as a releasing fluid. After a lifetime in oil refineries with plant in extreme weather, temp and pressures, “Penol” was the go to releasing agent. You might want to try it next time.
I agree. WD40 is a poor choice for undoing rusty threads.
See what the professionals in your area are using, and try to shop where they do.
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On 8/13/2020 at 8:34 PM, flyingmossman said:
Second, is the oil leaks.
-The sump seal is still my main culprit for leaks but has now just got to the point where I have to add small amounts of oil to keep it topped up to N on the dip. I have a new gasket for that and will change that out when I switch to a lower viscous oil for winter.
......
Third issue: Thermostat?
-The truck coolant level temperature always stays around mid point. But the oil temp gauge is always on the 3/4 range or higher (at highway speeds) when the engine is "warmed up."
.....
Lastly is the rear axle (in general)
It is pretty clunky, with plenty of backlash. when rotating the tires, I noticed a bit of play on the flange and splines of the rear shafts. I couldn't tell if it was spline wear or flange but wanted to get an opinion on whether new shafts would be a good go. and Ive looked into the terrafirma HD flanges etc. As well as, maybe, new diff setup. When I changed the diff oils there were no shards of metal, very small shavings and bits but no chunks or teeth.
Oil leaks
In general, the origin of a Land Rover oil leak need not be near where the oil is seen. Any oil leaked will be blown around by the wind.
Do clean and degrease the entire area thoroughly, then start up the engine and look for leaks, if none are showing, then drive half a minute down the road and back, then inspect again.
If it goes from "no oil showing" to "oil everywhere", then clean and degrease once more and dust the entire with baby powder, then try the start up & inspect and drive a very short distance & inspect again.
You can buy degreaser in big jugs to fill sprayer bottles. Thats by far the cheapest route and as a Land Rover Owner you will be needing lots of it 😃
Thermostat
Have you flushed the coolant system?
Take the radiator out of the Land Rover. Put the garden hose into one connection and see what comes out.
Rust flakes, slimey nasty semi-solid stuff, odd coloured liquid - its all a possibility.
Flush the engine coolant system as well - gently - with the garden hose.
Then refill with proper mixture of antifreeze/antirust and demineralised water, air out the system (open the uppermost plug, and jump up & down on the front fender)
Remove the thermostat - put it in a pot of water, heat it on the stove, put a thermometer in the water. See if it opens around the temperature its supposed to. Or replace it strait away without bothering to test it, they are cheap.
Rear axle clunk
Can be halfshaft/drive flange, differential or propshaft.
Undo the drive flanges and pull out the halfshafts. If the rims are the original steel rims or similar, its can be done without removing the wheels. Its 5 bolts and a paper gasket. Once out have a play with them by hand. Any play is readily seen/heard/felt.
Propshaft - get beneath, grab hold, pull and turn, listen and look. You can see and feel any play in the U-joints or the slider.
Differential - Put the halfshafts & drive flanges back in, undo the propshaft from the diff. Rotate the differential by hand. You can readily feel any play or absence of it.
Spareparts in general
Spareparts like driving members, driveshafts, propshaft U-joins and gaskets for a Land Rover are cheap. Do avoid the cheapest offerings though and buy the higher quality brands. Otherwise you will have to do the jobs over and over.
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Be two persons.
Use string and soapy water.
Clean the windscreen frame after having removed the old rubber. Be prepared to sand & paint any bubbles in the metal before fitting the new windscreen.
It will take 1-2 hours if you do not have to paint.
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I must admit the current crop of "Land Rover models" leaves me cold, while the new Ford Bronco looks interesting.
It will be interesting to see if the Ford Bronco is indeed a robust get-through-come-hell-or-high-water vehicle, or merely a car styled to look that way.
Can it eg. be hosed down and degreased internally in the cargo compartment without any carpets or electrics being harmed?
What is the real wading depth for daily use? After having been bogged down in a muddy field, with water and mud in the footwells, will it be a small matter of hosing out the mud and hanging the floormats to dry, or will it need new carpets and a major electronics refit?
Is there a sensible thought-out location to put extra batteries and an uprated generator to drive a winch? Same for locations for sandmats, shovel, highlift, chainsaw, jerrycans etc.
What is the actual towing capabilities in deep mud? Can it recover a fully loaded trailer or another vehicle bogged down in mud?
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M10x30 according to the usual webshops that sell LR parts.
Make sure you clean the threads in the block thoroughly first: compressed air, some penetratingoil/rustremover, more compressed air, then try to screw a fresh bolt in by hand to make sure the thread is free of obstructions all the way, only then try to mount the oilfilterhousing.
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Another important step in the sounddeadening process is to to find and plug each and every hole in the firewall.
Any missing grommet or unused bolthole between cabin and engineroom will transmit noise.
Meticulously find and plug each and every one of them.
Same for any rustholes in the footwells, get them welded up.
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1 hour ago, Nick 1 said:
Was it this one you fitted?
https://www.exmoortrim.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?cat=0&q=EXT009-12bk
Yes exactly that one.
Its stood up to use & abuse for many years and still looks and works perfectly.
Well worth the price.
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I did my 90" like 15 years ago or so.
Under the bonnet I cleaned away all rust and applied rustproofing. Then I went to the local boat-shop and obtained some foam-engine-room-insulation, its thick, dense foam with aluminiumfoil on one side and self-adhesive on the other. Hard to set on fire as well, which is important for an engineroom. Cut to fit with a knife. Has been working fine since then.
The seatbox got the ExmoorTrim offering. A wellfitting Heavy-Duty lead-rubber overcoat for the seatbox, gearboxtunnel and floor. I've been very satisfied with the product.
These two together reduced the noise in the cabin significantly.
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On 12/14/2019 at 12:10 PM, David Sparkes said:
Just one caveat I will add to the 'no grease' chorus.
This is based on the fact that the other two pins of the spider look greased.
When there is one route in (the grease nipple) but four routes out (each pin), if the greaseway to one pin, or two pins, gets blocked with dirt or dried grease, then any new grease will easily pour out of the 2 or 3 pins still open, while the blocked pins get no lubrication at all.
I'm saying it isn't enough to grease every 3, 6, or 12 months as the fancy takes you. Grease has to be seen to be forced past all four seals if you are to be certain each pin is getting new gease.
I've had an U-joint disintegrate and destroy its yoke in much the same way as in driveallknights pictures, despite having greased the U-joints often.
Exactly as David explains, the grease only ever made it past one or two of the four pins of that particular U-joint
It seems that grease follows the path of least resistance, so regular greasings in itself is not enough to guard against this type of failure.
I've replaced U-joints once they started to loosen up or to make noise/vibrations, checking them every time I happened to be underneath the LR. Its only failed me that one time.
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Years ago I owned a 90" with a 2,5 n/a like yours.
I learned early on that n/a stands for "No Acceleration". Thats just the way it is.
However there are a few things you can do to make sure all the horses are indeed present and pulling their weight. With so few in total you do not want to be missing any:
- Get the injectors refurbished by a reputeable diesel specialist. This is supposed to be done at a fixed interval. If prior owners have neglected to have this done, you might see a dramatic change for the better.
- Make sure the air inlet is free of obstructions, which basically means put in a fresh airfilter insert and make sure the air inlet hose if fitted does not collapse under load and restrict airflow into the engine.
- Measure the engine compression. If its low in one or more cylinders some degree of rebuild will do wonders.
- Consider tires with a lower circumference. That will lover the overall gearing and thereby help acceleration at the cost of some offroad performance.
Regarding the brakes: Get them fixed. The standard brakes are perfectly fine if in good order.
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3 hours ago, Arjan said:
Ask Ashcroft ?
From the LT230 FAQ at https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions/lt230-faq-s.html
What oil should I use in my LT230 ? Use a GL4 or GL5, either mineral EP80/90 or synthetic EP75W90
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18 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Weld on a 1/2 inch extension bar?
That is what I would recommend as well.
Weld a nut onto the stuck bolt. You apply the weld on the inside of the nut (where the threads are)
The heat from welding will help to loosen the bolt and will give you something to apply plenty of torque to.
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On 15/2/2018 at 5:26 AM, SanDiego110 said:
Just wondering how long I should expect to crank the engine before it starts up when it is cold (cold being 70 degrees F OAT). It takes two consecutive 5-second cranks before she starts up. I feel like this is too long, considering the Yanmar diesel on my sailboat takes no more than a second, cold start. Once the engine (Defender, not sailboat) is warm, I can shut it off and restart it with just one second of cranking. Thanks!
My 2,5 TD starts within one or two rotations of the crankshaft.
That is after a good pre-heating using the glow-plugs, 10 seconds on a lukewarm summers day, 20-30 seconds in freezing winter.
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JATE rings and the bridle approach in mickeyws picture is the way to go.
Fit a pair front and rear. If you have to add washers to get a snug fit, use large diameter washers, in order to spread the load well.
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Oil drips from other parts of the Land Rover tends to be deposited in that area by the turbulent winds when driving.
Use the colour of the oil and its smell to narrow down the possible sources.
A thorough cleaning of the enginecompartment and the gearboxes etc. followed by a very short drive might also reveal the source. You have to stop and look for leaks before the oil is carried all around the underside by the turbulent winds.
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I found a solution.
Unscrew and remove two little brackets on either side, by unscrewing three little bolts on either side, located behind the horns. See the shiny spots in the photos and the brackets after removal.
This disconnects the rearmost three radiators from the front radiator and from the rest of the car. Without disconnecting any hoses or pipes, and without draining any fluids from radiators, you can now lift the three radiators up a certain distance. See the picture with the plastic bit acting as temporary support for the three radiators. that gives an idea of how much clearance over the front crossmember you will gain-
By tilting the three radiators against the front radiator at the bottom, you can squeeze the plastic cowling around the viscous fan past the fan and remove it from the engine compartment.
Now place the new pipe behind the radiator, lift up the three radiators as far as they will go with both hands, while wiggling the pipes and their akward supports underneath the three radiators until the supports are at the front side of the front chassis crossmember.
Connect the pipeends to the steering box and the servo pump. Bolt the two annoying watercollecting supports to the front crossmember, and you are done with the hard bit of the job.
Put the radiators back into their proper supported position. Pour fresh PAS fluid into the reservoir. Turn on the engine and bleed the system free from air via the bleed screw on the steering box. Turn off the engine. Refill PAS fluid to the max mark. Put everything back in the order you took them off.
In the picture of the old pipe, notice the broken end. The bracket laying next to the broken end was sitting on the pipe at the end. The pipe broke at one side of the bracket when I started fiddling with it, and you see how the pipe is narrow from corrosion right where it exited the other side of the bracket. The broken end of the pipe has razor thin walls.
The small hoseclamps and cableties on top of some self-vulcanising tape was what got me and the Doscovery home when the pipe burst under the other support bracket.
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Hello
LHD DiscoII V8 2002
How do I get the old PAS pipe out and the new one in?
Partnumber QEP105480 superceeded to QEP105481
On the LHD model the PAS pump is located above the steering box, so Land Rover, in their wisdom, decided to connect the two via a steel pipe going out to the front, past the left side of the radiators and all the way across the frontmember of the chassis and back the same away. I suppose this routing is for the purpose of cooling the PAS fluid, as the pipe is sitting in the airstream to the rear radiator.
It appears as if the pipe was fitted before the radiators, and I fear I will have to remove the radiators, at least the rearmost one in order to get the new pipe into position, but I hope someone has done it before and found a smarter way..
BTW. the reason for the replacement is that the pipe is rusted through and leaking PAS fluid all over the place and draining the reservoir. The rust is where the pipe is supported from the crossmembers. Apparently the supports are designed to catch & trap rainwater and salty water in winters time. When I started mucking with the pipe to see if I could somehow get it out, it broke clear off at one of the supports - the only remaining metal in the PAS pipe at that point is razor thin.
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Once I drained a LT230 transfer box on a recently purchased 90", and what came out was a brownish muddy watery substance. Obviously the previous owner had not done his maintenance work properly.
I put proper oil into it, drove it for a week or so and changed the oil again.
10 years, 100.000 km and yearly oilchanges later, it still works just fine.
I know of a 90" that was driven something like 150 km with a large chunk of the casing of its LT230 missing after a rock impact at an event. Of course all fluids had completely drained through the gaping hole. The LT230 made the trip, but had to be replaced afterwards.
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I have a little problem with the headlight adjustment on a DiscoveryII
It is fitted with electric headlight adjustment, the type where there is a 4-position knob on the dash to set the desired headlight level.
The bottom headlamp adjuster is a little electric motor, apparently part number AMR2706
As the vehicle came to me, the headlamps were adjusted sort of ok-ish, but the wires to the electric motors were un-plugged.
I plugged them in, both the motors made a little "motor running sound" and both their adjusters were drawn into the fully-in/headlights-fully-down position. Then "the lines of communication" with these motors broke down.
Turning the knob on the dash has no effect. No fuses are blown.
But the headlights are pointed down to the ground to a degree that makes it undriveable at night.
There is a 13 mm plastic "nut" on top of the AMR2706. Turning it makes a ratchetting sound, but does not affect the level. I took it for a manually override, but perhaps it is something else?
The AMR2706 has a 3-terminal plug. What is the pinout and protocol?
I would love trying to diagnose the problem by testing the motors on the bench with an external power source. Is it eg. ground, 12V and a pulse pin like for a stepper motor, or ground and a pin to make it move one way and another pin to move the other way with the duration of time controlling how far?
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I plugged a Nanocom into a V8 DiscoveryII today and it found me a couple error codes.
The Nanocom provides a dual-number error code and a very short text that hints at the problem without making it perfectly clear.
Is there a list somewhere online of these error codes and a more informative explanation of their meaning?
New Landy owner
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
They are indeed where the heater injects warm air into the footwells.
If the heater does not keep you toasty warm in freezing winter, then something is broken.
There are cables from the levers sticking out of the instrument panel to the heater-box in the engine compartment and to flap valves behind the plastic inlets in your pictures. Start by testing if all these are in good order.