tychoS
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Posts posted by tychoS
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Hi guys,
My defender 90 pickup just blows cold air through the heater, is it a simple fix like a valve or could it be somthing else?? Didnt bother me untill the weather started getting colder!
Any help would be appreciated. its an E reg 2.5td if this helps.
Donnie
Also check the water level in the cooling system. If it's a couple liters short the heater gets little or no hot water.
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Hi, yes immediately after the flood I drained the engine oil and replaced oil and filter. Also replaced diff oil, fuel filter and air filter. Removed intercooler and turbo and drained water out.
Don't forget the gearboxes, the propshafts, the sviwel houses and the wheel bearings.
The brake fluid, clutch fluid & servo fluid is also worth changing after such a long sumbersion.
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Hi
I'm trying to refit my track rod after removing one end to allow me to get the radius arms off. When refitting the track rod pins back to the hub mounting, the nut is spinning the whole pin and I can't get it done up. What do I need to do?
Have a mate step on the trackrod while you tighten the nut.
If the vehicle is raised on a lift, have a mate grab the rod with both hands and raise himself off the floor, thereby pressing the rod down with his entire bodyweight.
If you are alone, grab the trackrod with one hand and lift yourself up so most of your bodyweight pushes downward on the rod while you use the other hand to tighten the nut.
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1991 Defender 90, although I had an identical rattle on a S111 for 2 years before I sold it for the Defender, so I guess it’s a Landy trait or me !!
The rattle occurs for a few seconds when moving if the engine nearly labours at low revs, dropping down a gear stops the rattle. I really should have dropped a gear before the rattle happens but sometimes when I’m day dreaming……. The rattle is somewhere in front, a solid sound (not panels), best describes as a large washer rattling between two large nuts. I’ve checked exhaust, props and pushed/pulled most things underneath and in the engine bay.
Assuming its not a built in innovative warning to change gear any ideas where else to look or do I just live with it?
Check if the exhaust is too close to solid metal somewhere.
I had a similar rattle at low rpm, that could be avoided by sticking to low gears and keeping the rpm above 1500. It was the rearmost muffler nearly touching the chassis.
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The rearmost injector in my 2.5 TD started to weep diesel.
It's weaping from around the injector itself coming up from the hole in the head the injector is mounted in.
Thinking the injector had cracked, and knowing the were all old, I fitted a set of reconditioned injectors.
However with the new set, the rearmost injector still weeps, while the other three are dry. For this reason I rule out a failed injector.
I used new sealing washers, both the big copper ones and the little steel ones for the tip of the injectors, and was careful about keeping the sealing surfaces clean and torquing in multiple steps on alternating sides.
The injectors are the same part number for 2.25, 2.5 n/a and 2.5 TD so someone must have come across a similar situation before.
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Good luck with that - I was hoping for some idea how the standard set up all goes together as I've been getting bits as they come up on fleabay etc.
So if anyone does have photos please...
Here's what mine looks like.
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There is one, but I cant figure out why, since the axel cant be removed without taking the flange off first.
The circlip is there to prevent the axle from moving too far towards the center of the vehicle, which in the front end would mean the CV joint would move to a position where it's not in line with the railko bush & bearing meaning there will be a problem turning properly.
BTW. I second what has been said above. Wire brush followed by liberal amounts of rust dissolver, leave it to soak for a copule hours/overnight, then reapply more rust dissolver, wait ten minutes then see if you can work the drive flange off. Gentle tabs with a hammer can do wonders, but be carefully about where you hit so as to not damage anything important.
Btw. btw. The rust dissolver sold at Biltema works marvelously.
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Thanks to forum member Stobbie, the chassis number on an early One Ten should look like this:
Don't know which model year Land Rover stopped using the British Leyland signs before and after the chassis number though.
My 90" from 1988 has the little symbols before & after the chassis number.
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perhaps im barking up the wrong tree but if its only for occasional use, could you not just get hold of a decent small tirfor? they do the job perfectly and then you dont have any metal on the front of your truck!!!
A Tirfor will pull your vehicle in any direction you want, forward, backwards, sideways, upwards, diagonally etc.
A Tirfor works when the engine and batteries are dead.
A Tirfor can be used to turn annoying bystanders into helpfull recovery muscles, or make them leave you alone
A Tirfor will work every time, partly because it's stored nice & dry inside the vehicle, perhaps in a nice alubox or similar, not outside the car constantly splashed with salty water in winter.
A Tirfor can be used for pulling and lifting tasks in locations you cannot or must not get your Land Rover into
A Tirfor is cheaper than most drum winches.
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could it be that my turbo is knackered?
cos its got quite a bit of play in it.....
CURLY
how much play is "quite a bit"?
On mine the compressor wheel can be moved maybe one mm sideways, but the engine performs fine nevertheless.
Of course no play would be better, and most likely perform better, but what can you expect with a mileage of close to 400.000 km ;-)
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oh dear..
not much puffs out the oil cap, so i was hoping that a set of new stem seals and i could use it for a few more months..
i'm putting about 5 ltrs of oil in the engine every time i fill it up with diesel, well 3/4 fill it other wise it sloshes out the filler cap.. HE HE
i'm pretty stumped with it at the moment, cos i need to use it everyday to get to work, and pick up my boy from nursery, so i need some sort of quick fix!
any ideas?
CURLY
Pistons and/or piston rings as well as valve stem seals can be changed in a days work in the parking lot.
Been there, done that.
The parts are rather affordable. Say on the level of the cost of two-three tanks of diesel for way better than B***P*** quality.
Apart from ordinary sockets and spanners, you will need a torque wrench, a valve compressor and a piston ring compressor. The latter two can be had real cheap in a quality that will likely last long enough to do all four cylinders. The torque wrench you better borrow rather than buy a crappy one.
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Far from.
Thing is that I bought the tyres off a guy who bought a new 130 and only drove it home to put on wider wheels and tyres. 
Here's where the number is stamped into mine
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Hey, does anyone have any thoughts on which is the best oil to put in my 2.5TD 90? Many Thanks
My 2.5 TD has covered 394xxx kilometers and looses 0.4 - 0.5 liters of engine oil per 1000 km, some of the loss being drippings.
I have experimented a bit on mine:
- 5w40 synthetic in winter made it really hard to start. I had to press and hold the accelerator pedal for the first minute while the entire car shock heavily under the vibrations, or the engine would die. Lots of smoke too
- 10w40 semi synthetic. Made it drip from all orifices and then some. Started and ran like the mineral oils.
- 15W40 mineral. Starts easily even at -10 degrees celcius, runs smooth, for a 2.5 TD, at idle when cold
Brand name has not made any noticeable difference in my experiments. I pay approx. £28 for 10 liters of "Turbo Diesel Engine Oil" at "Biltema".
- 5w40 synthetic in winter made it really hard to start. I had to press and hold the accelerator pedal for the first minute while the entire car shock heavily under the vibrations, or the engine would die. Lots of smoke too
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Is there a difference between the front and back seatbelt reels? i've got the reels from when i stripped the back of seats and belts...
I have the same problem with too little recoil on some old original land rover parts seatbelts. I ordered the replacements sold by ExmoorTrim and others, but they had less recoil new out of the box than the old worn original ones. Also the belt material was thinner and narrover and the mechanism looked a lot less confidence inspiring than the original part.
I have looked in vain for a source for new original parts seat belts. All the usual parts suppliers seem to have in stock are the Exmoor ones or the "Securon" brand which I have also tried, with the same lack of result.
Anyone know an online supplier who carries original Land rover seat belts or a proper replacement for a 1988 90" softtop?
I haven't yet asked an authorized Land Rover shop. Hope I won't have to and doubt they have anything in stock for elder models anyway.
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Ditto
Get a set of Facom gasket scrapers. They are made for the purpose. They remove the gasket without scratching the surface and they are shaped so you grip and hold them in ways that allows you to use force without developing muscle cramps and the like after prolonged used.
They are not cheap though.
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How do you replace one of the studs holding the timing belt tensioner in place on a 2,5 TD?
It broke in half when I was in the process of changing the timing belt. The stud was in a sorry state to begin with, having lost most of the thread on the part the nut sat on. Therefore I refit a new nut with some washers in between so the nut rode on a non-damaged part of the stud. However the stud broke when I torqued it.
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i have a 1984 2.5 Na diesel defender and wanted to know how i could go about getting more from my engine in terms of economy and, smoother engine and better top speed as i do over 200 miles a day in her. o and budget is tight and technical knowledge is limited.
also is 60mph about right for top speed as thats all i get on motorways. not a problem but dont like my engine screaming it's Tits off.
any help would be much appreciated.
When I had a 2,5 n/a in a 90" CSW on 205/80R16 Michelin XZL it could go 110 km/h ~= 68 mph on flat tarmac, when properly warmed up.
- Change the diesel filter and the air filter. If it has a fuel sedimentor, clean or replace it.
- Serve the engine a bottle of injector cleaner and adjust it's tappets.
- Change the oil in the engine, gearboxes, differentials and swivels unless recently done. Don't forget the engine oil filter.
- Make sure the air pressure in the tires are correct.
- Check the wheel bearing adjustment.
- Close all windows and the air flaps (easily adds 5-10 km/h)
These were all cheap do-it-yourself jobs. You could also have the injectors and pump checked by a diesel specialist. But that will likely cost the same as the replacement value of that particular model of engine.
- Change the diesel filter and the air filter. If it has a fuel sedimentor, clean or replace it.
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It's possible that they could go quite suddenly. Have a look to see if there's any sign of oil on any of them. If you can see the shafts (there's normally a shroud over the shaft so you can't see them, but not all shocks have them and they can rot away on old shocks.), there shouldn't be any signs of pitting on the chrome shafts.
Regards, Mark.
Also see if one of the shocks have snapped in two.
Happened to me not long ago. The right hand side rear shock snapped at the bottom. Provided an "interesting" ride experience at highway speeds on deeply ruttet tarmac.
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I suspect the cork t-seals around the rearmost main bearing cap on my 2,5 TD has failed.
Is it possible to replace these from beneath, by removing the sump and unscrewing the two big bolts which holds the rearmost main bearing cap?
Has anyone tried this with succes on a 2,5 TD?
I have heard reports of doing it this way with succes on some 2,25 engines and I have heard it is impossible on the 200 tdi.
What's the recommendation: new T-seals in cork or some suitable liquid gasket material?
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carefully prise the external side grille away from the wing, it has 5 thin plastic pins into tubular plastic receptacle, then the inner duct can be removed from the wing.
the 200Tdi still uese the side intake for the engines air as the left wing top vent is for the heater air intake. you don't need to change any of the wing side intake or it's hose to fit the tdi air cleaner.
On a left hand drive 90" the heater and its intake are on the right hand side.
The airfilter box is in the front left hand side, with a long hose passing right beneath the unused intake hole in the wingtop on it's way to the side intake. The hose is squeezed oval where it passes between the brake assist servo and wingside. Rather silly. Must convert mine to use the wingtop intake instead.
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After a heated conversation with a MOT inspector at a certain chain of car accessory shop (that also does parts, servicing and MOTs) who was about to follow the MOT H/B to the letter, he found a small hill ...
In Denmark the MOT testers are instructed to never put a vehicle with permanent four wheel drive on a brake tester. It's written in their publicly available MOT inspection manual.
Instead they take the vehicle for a drive and if they feel the brakes worked ok when they braked hard they will pass it. I have never heard of any measurement device like an accelerometer being used for road testing the brakes over here.
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Are All Makes hinges any good or should I stick to genuine LR ones?
Cheers
Steve
I have recently bought both genuine and britpart.
Those from britpart arrived "pre-worn" so to speak. They had something like 20 degrees of play from the factory. That's far more play than the old and worn hinges they were supposed to have replaced.
If you buy genuine, consider the TD5 version even if you have an earlier model, since they rotate on a plastic bush rather than metal against metal.
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Does any one else run a 2.5 TD (19J) on a 200TDi radiator and intercooler? Mine gets to the end of the white bit after prolonged high speed (
) running. Foolishly I didn't flush the eblag radiator prior to fitting, so that's one job, but I wondered what (if any) experience anyone else had?Yes, I know I should have just added an intercooler in front of the old TD radiator, but I don't have the money and Santa could only run to re-trim kit this year
("Dear Santa, can I have a PRC0001 (oil leak, 90 / 110), LR special tool 001 (4lb, hickory handle) ..")I'm considering adding an intercooler to my 2,5 TD as well.
I would be gratefull for pictures of your installation.
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I'm going to be treating myself to one of the most improtant Land Rover tools (alongside a lump hammer!) and though i've had may before, they've been the cheaper kind (£15-20) that work for a few months and then die.
so can anyone recommend a good one? or is it just best to keep getting cheap ones? i don't mind spending a bit if it's worth it...
I have two green Bosch 115 mm/4.5" grinders that I inherited many years ago. They keep on working flawless.
The 115 mm/4.5" size is good for working around Land Rovers and other machinery. They are small enough that you can reach most rusty bolts that has to be removed and they are fine for running wirebrushes and the like.
For making larger cuts with good access a larger grinder is better.
I agree that you need a couple of grinders, switching tools mid job is a pain.
Thing is that I bought the tyres off a guy who bought a new 130 and only drove it home to put on wider wheels and tyres. 
) running. Foolishly I didn't flush the eblag radiator prior to fitting, so that's one job, but I wondered what (if any) experience anyone else had?
("Dear Santa, can I have a PRC0001 (oil leak, 90 / 110), LR special tool 001 (4lb, hickory handle) ..")
Driving to Lapland
in Getting out and about
Posted
I've only been to Lapland myself during summer, so cannot give you any 1. hand information on the winter conditions.
However try posting to the Swedish Land Rover Club forum:
SLRK website: http://www.slrk.org
SLRK forum: http://slrk.phpbb2.se/forum/