tychoS
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Posts posted by tychoS
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I've just received an e-mail from ILRO, inviting me to:"Enter our competition and your Land Rover could feature in the 2014 LRO/BRITPART Calendar!" How can I possibly resist this tempting offer???
Trouble is, I don't have the confidence that they'll even get the calendar right, and I wouldn't want anybody to think that I'd actually endorse Britpart products. A month's fame for a lifetime of embarrassment and misery would be intolerable. No thank you.
I wonder if any brave souls on here will be tempted for a "month of glory".
Mike
Send them a picture of a LR with a Britpart sticker on the loadbed of an AA truck
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I unscrewed the part, replaced the two o-rings, applied a tiny amount of liquid gasket to the mating surface and screwed the part back in place.
It has so far kept dry for a long test drive.
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My 2,5 TD suddenly developed a diesel leak from the injector pump.
For diagnostics I cleaned the pump using brake cleaner, covered it in baby powder and drove it for 5 minutes. As can be seen in the photo, the leak is in or around the round disc shaped thing on the underside of the pump.
The engine runs perfectly. Starts easily. Smooth idle, smooth at speed, no apparent change in engine behaviour. But it is dripping quite a lot of diesel.
The workshop manual is rather brief on the topic of the injector pump. It does not even tell the function of this particular part.
I am looking for a source of information on these models of injector pumps or better yet some ones personal experience fixing a similar leak.
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+1 for speedi sleeves
I agree. Speedi sleeves or outright replacement of the stub axles.
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Even better, the handles of those mugs just clip over the dash and hold pretty well. FREE!!
We have used a pair of these for years. The handles do fit nicely over the rim of the dash shelf.
A bonus is that each person has his/her individual cup and can have the content with/without milk, sugar etc to personal taste.
http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/7627/4312/8/LRO-0447-LAND-ROVER-GEAR-TRAVEL-MUG.html
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If you get the temperature just right, Birmabright turns very mallable, almost like butter. So often you can press and gently force the panel back into shape instead of hammering it against a dolly.
But as soon as you get the temperature too high or too low, it turns rock solid and you have to wait until you have the temperature ok again.
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As an interim work around apply a tiny amount of brake fluid to both sides of the v-belt. That makes the belt shut up and do it's job for a while.
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I would not use anything from Britpart for safety critical parts of a Land Rover. Too many bad experiences with their products.
Brakes, steering and tires are three areas where you should aim for the best possible quality you can possibly obtain. Save on other areas of the vehicle.
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Recently I had to resurrect 28 semi traction 140 Ah batteries that had been sitting unused for two years stored in a shed and exposed to frost.
They were fully charged by a huge but stupid old charger two years ago before entering storage. One year ago each of them was "charged" by one of those cheap "Lidl style" chargers.
When I took them out of storage some measured 11,9-12,0 V, a scant few a bit more, many down around 11,0 V and 5 of them was at 7,5 V. The "Lidl style charger" simply switched off after a few minutes, refusing to charge any of them.
Enter the CTEK MXS10 charger. On the recond program it took 10-16 hours to resurrect each battery, meaning I moved the charger to a new battery each day for a long while.
A month after being reconditioned in this way, most of them measures 12,6 V with only 2-3 down around 12,0 V.
I look forward to borrowing a battery load tester to test them under a simulated workload to further test the result.
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I'm looking for the part number for the Boost Diaphram in the high pressure pump on a 2,5 TD engine.
Perhaps it only has a CAV/Delphi partnumber and not a Land Rover part number, since I can't seem to find it in the Land Rover parts catalogue.
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The TerraTrip T006 speedometer probe grips the inner cable using two tiny bolts with allen heads.
Can anyone tell me the size of the allen key for these bolts?
I have mislaid the allen key that came with the probe, but remember it looked like a top contester for the "slimmest allen key in the world" prize.
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Does the snake have a part number?
Any idea if the particular snake in the pictures is Britpart or Genuine Part?
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Looks nifty.
How is the position of the x-bars relative to the driver & passenger heads?
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One issue I've had with BFG AT is that they are very prone to picking up stones.
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Can one even buy snow chains big enough for a defender? I'm running 285/75R16 and I had thought it wouldn't be possible? I'm keen too if it's possible- M+S rating seems to mean very little in the real world..
If you don't mind ordering from across the North Sea, try one of these companies:
http://www.snekaeder.dk/personvogn_4x4.htm
http://www.flom.no/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=14&Itemid=46
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Towed the rocket HEAT-1X 2x30 km with a car ferry trip in the middle of the trip.
Used a tirfor style handwinch to stack the same rocket in the upright position onto its launch tower one segment at a time. The Land Rover acting as an anchor point for the handwinch.
Towed the steel hulls for a catamarane style ship, each hull being 1x1x14 meters. Towed from inside the building in which they were made and onto the assembly area for the catamarane.
Winched a 16 metric tons ex-shipyard lathe into a building, using a tirfor style handwinch and the Land Rover as anchor point.
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I heard a rumor, it will be called "Land Rover Pretender"
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In a CSW from 1984 I found a couple typewritten sheets of blue paper listing all the "optional luxury extras" like ashtray, passenger side mirror, mudflaps etc.
In another I found a mint condition hunting knife.
In a Land Rover that came back from a rather unhappy visit to a self proclaimed "land rover specialist", I found a very useful Knipex needle nose pliers in good condition, which served as reimbursement for a tiny bit of the hefty bill for the "repair".
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Morning all,
Last week I fitted a new pair of Bearmach shoes to my 1987 Ninety.
I had to modify the shoe with the pin for the upper spring as the pin was slightly misaligned and it fouled the adjustment snail cam, causing the shoe to lock against the cam when the hub was locked down.
It took the best part of 3 hours to find/fix that, so when I went to do the other side yesterday I knew what might happen.
Only yesterday I couldn't take enough off the spring pin without potentially compromising its strength, so I had to put the old shoes back on.
They are good enough, I only bought new shoes while I was buying new drums so its no panic
I know I have new shoes one side and old ones the other but both side have new drums so they are all bedding in anyway.
Anyway, to my question.
Are there 2 types of shoes with fractionally different spring pin locations, or are Bearmach now producing carp?
I ask because its been a long time since I worked on the Landy and I'm sure Bearmach used to be a decent name.
Thanks
IanB
Most recent time I had to replace the rear brakeshoes on a 1988 90" I had to discard the first set as being quite a big bit too big to fit inside the drum. The next set fitted sort of ok'ish.
One set was TRW the other Mintex. Can't remember which fitted and which did not, but both manufactors are supposed to be as good as it gets.
Actually I've seen this quite a lot in recent years. It seems the quality of LR parts, handtools etc. even from formerly reputable manufactors are declining in quality.
It's really annoying because I'm quite willing to pay extra for a quality item, but quite often find myself unable to actually locate one.
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Have a look at QCAD. It has served me well on a couple occasions.
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Hello people,
After frequenting this forum for probably just over a year now its helped me build this, what I have today:
Now I initially got this vehicle with a grand dream to build it into an Overland type truck that I could take anywhere and do anything in, I wanted it to be a reliable bomb proof truck I could travel in where and when I wanted, like I said with the emphasis on travel and green lane type activities rather than its former existence as a bit of a mud plugger.
My build thread is here My link of whats roughly been done to the truck...
I now have a dilemma... after frequenting the Land rover world for over a year, I now know that a 90 is not the most ideal base for an Overland type vehicle, but never the less there are overland equipped 90's out there...
Before I go spending more money and time on quite custom things like roll cages and roof racks I need to decided if the 90 will fulfil my needs... Now presently it lacks the capacity to hold more than 2 people which isn't the end of the world but does restrict things.
I have a ford focus as my other vehicle but running two cars is expensive, so if i did go for a 110csw then the ford would go too, leaving me with one vehicle.
I've learnt an incredible amount re-building this truck and it like my baby, but I'm at that point now where I have to work out should I break free and get a 110csw or keep my 2 vehicles and continue with an "overland" 90...
I now put it to the infinite wisdom of this forum for guidance.
If anyone has thoughts or advice it would be greatly received!
Mav
In 1955 6 men drove from London to Singapore and back in two SWB Land Rovers. It took them six months and 18.000 miles to reach Singapore.
Their book is worth reading if you fancy "overlanding" in a Land Rover: http://www.amazon.com/First-Overland-London-Singapore-Land-Rover/dp/1904955142
Why should it be less possible today with a 90"? Just sell or give away anything that will not fit inside the vehicle and you will have a better trip anyway.
Only reason I can see for needing a larger vehicle is if you need to have room for a number of armed guards for sections of the route. But even then, the need for space will be limited because it will take place in areas of the world where people will be used to riding in the back of a truck sitting on a piece of luggage.
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As some of you already know, I am mechanically inept and want to get some books that cover the basics. At the moment I can't tell a carburettor from my elbow
I'm looking for something that is written with simpletons like myself in mind and that explains clearly and simply how engines, gearboxes and other parts work, preferably with good diagrams/pictures. If it's Land Rover specific, even better.
Any recommendations?
Many thanks
John
I can recommend the videos published on YouTube by "University Motors", an MG specialist workshop in the US.
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=university+motors&aq=f
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Another way to get your own Land Rover to and from Iceland is to put it into a shipping container and have it shipped by containership to Iceland.
Canvas Roof Re-Proofing - Fabsil and Alternatives
in International Forum
Posted
I have had good succes with Fabsil on a Exmoor canvas softtop.
One tin is approx. enough for a 90" softtop. Applied with a cheap paintbrush
https://grangers.co.uk/product/fabsil-liquid