tychoS
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Posts posted by tychoS
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I need a push button switch (momentary).
I want to conceal it so ideally it needs to be teeny tiny. Doesn't need a high current capacity - say 5 amps.
So, any ideas? VWP only has relatively large items.
Ask in your electronics parts store instead of an automotive electrics supplier. I have personally installed momentary switches where the button was a cylinder of say 4 mm in diameter that protuded approx 2 mm above the panel. They had a little sleeve behind the burron and was held in place by a nut screwed onto the housing from behind the panel.
Doubt they would take 12V 5 Amps though, they were for electronics, where 5 Amps is considered "high power, heavy duty", but they can surely take enough to drive a solid state "relay".
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Hi,
I fitted Horse Stable matting thoughout the rear floor,wheelarches under rear seats, seat box and footwells in my 110 csw, it is 17mm thick and definately makes a difference, here in the Uk u can buy it for approx £30 for a 6` x4` sheet, which is a lot cheaper than Landrovers rubber matting for rear of vehicle. I would have thought that it could be purchased through out the world
I have been very happy with the ExmoorTrim kit.
It's made up of a thick, dense and very heavy lead/rubber type material. The matting is roughly 1 cm thick all over.
One piece covers the entire seatbox, you take out the seats, place the mat and replace the seats on top of the mat.
Another piece covers the floor and gearbox tunnel.
Finally a smaller piece to go around the fusebox and out into the vertical parts of the footwells.
It's not cheap, but can be fitted in 4 hours, where the majority of the time is spent removing and replacing the seats and making cutouts for handbrake elver, bolts for seats etc.
When driving with the top off, the vehicle is virtually noiseless, only a bit of tire noice is heard. With the tilt on, there is noice, but we can have a conversation up to around 90 km/t without shouting. This is with a 2,5 TD
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Thanks for advice
;) I had Michelin 4x4 OR XZL 205/80R16 on my first 90".
They are indeed surprisingly cheap in that dimension.
Mine were mounted on steel rostyle rims, ie. the standard steel rim for RRC and the County version of the 90"
I found them to be good in mud and for general messing around off-road. On road they behaved themself with low noice - for an offroad tire. There was no balance issues, they were perfectly round and gave a comfy ride on road.
As soon as the tarmac got wet however, it was skidding time. Braking length easily doubled.
I'm on AT's these days so cannot provide 1. hand experience with the recent offerings in off-road tires, but have noticed that Cooper Discoverer SST2 comes factory siped, which in theory should help a lot on wet tarmac.
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- No mud traps
- Built-in proper roll over protection (just as important for the daily commute as for offroad use)
- Re-introduce the "catflap" air inlets under the windscreen
- Better tolerances and overall build quality
1 & 2 could perhaps be achieved by using a Bowler style tubular spaceframe instead of the present chassis. It must be possible to design a shape that still allows for a wide range of body style choiches.
- No mud traps
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HI All,
This is my first post so here goes.
I recently bought a new set of rear shoes for my 90 as they were pretty well shot. On fitting the new set though, everything was fine untill fitting the rear wheels back on when they locked solid. I drove it around and inevitably the shoes wore down enough to work again, but it was not ideal as you can imagine. A friend suggested that the drums may be warped or oval, so today I renewed the shoes and drums together. (checking Les' tech forum to make sure the springs were correctly fitted). All was fine untill the wheels were torqued up then once again they were binding, but not fully locked this time........still very stiff though. the snail cams are fully wound off and I couldnt see anything obvious.
Any advice would be gratefully received.
Dave.
Recently I bought new drums and shoes for the rear of my 90".
The shoes were too large to the point that the new drums could not be fitted at all.
In the end I ordered another set of shoes from another manufactor. They fit - barely. After a few short trips with partly binding shoes this second pair was worn down enough to fit without binding.
The completely non fitting set was TRW brand, those that barely fit were Mintex brand. The drums were Allmakes brand.
I plan on buying genuine parts from now on as much as possible.
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Hi,
I'm looking to get a diesel 110 to replace my petrol 90 and one has come up that seems alright.
The question i have is that it has a TD engine and not my preferred option of a tdi.
Are the TD engines ok or do they have any major known problems that would need to be checked for?
Thanks
Steve
My 2,5 TD has gone 385.000 km so far and is working fine.
I'm planning a little celebration when it reaches 400.000 km ;-)
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The bushes are all in pieces that can be removed from the Land Rover, and are easy to carry, so remove them all and take them to a garage with a hydraulic press worth at least 20 ton and have them press the old bushes out.
It takes a minute or two per bushing, is less dangerous than the other methods, costs less(no drill bits, hacksaw blades etc espended) and while not risc free carries a lover risc of causing damage to you and to the parts.
If you fit polybush you can insert the new ones by hand, if you fit genue bushes, have them pressed in using the press while you are there.
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Manage to find the problem with the axle after stripping down the hold thing
the CV joint splines were worn on both the CVJ & drive flange, now I need to know how to get the shaft out of the CV joint...do you have to press it out?Thanks
MaxxTraxx
The workshop manual has a drawing of a man hammering the cv off the shaft, while the shaft is held in a vice.
There's a little ring in a grove at the end of the shaft. This has to be compressed in order to withdraw the shaft from the cv.
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I am about to change the oil seals in my diff pinions and obviously need to take the prop shaft off, but what size are the nuts/bolts? I was going to buy a propshaft tool and that is described as 9/16 AF, Microcat says they're 3/8UNF and I've seen articles where a 14mm spanner is used. I can see that 9/16 and 14mm are very close but if I have 3/8 then the tool isn't going to fit. So what size are they?
Malcolm
The propshaft tool works wonderfully. Use that and a 9/16" spanner and you will do fine.
Buy a new set of bolts and nuts for the propshaft btw. They are available for very little from the Land Rover parts places.
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Only buy single hex sockets.The times when you will need bi-hex are very limited.
Halfords Pro, Draper Expert ,Britool,and you can get snap-on blue point sets on ebay for a very good price.
Facom makes extraordinary good ratches, they are well worth the price.
For Land Rover maintenance I have found having a 1/4" and a 1/2" set to be optimal.
For the 1/4" the stuff I use on a regular base are 6-point sockets long and short 6-13 mm, two "screw driver" handles, one with a bendable spring shaft the other a regular, two 1/4" ratches, one regular length and a stubby approx. 6 cm short one. I also have a few extensions.
For 1/2" I regular use short and long 6-point sockets from 10-21 mm, the sizes above that have been bought individually as the need arose. The long ones are rarely used, but are occasionally neccesary. The only 12 point sockets I have ever had a proper use for on a Land Rover are 13 mm and 14 mm for caliper bolts.
However a set of cheap 12 point 1/2" sockets are handy to keep around the workshop for the purpose of hammering onto rounded bolts.
For 1/2" I have two regular ratches, an uj, a set of extensions and a half meter long "breaker bar" which is the most important piece of the socket set. It allows you to apply quite a lot of force in a controlled manner, so you loosen the bolt rather than snap it.
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the later engine block was use from engine number 19J 27515C not much change & just as poor as it's previous version, 200Tdi is a far better & longer lived stronger engine.
I do not know how long they last, mine has only driven 385.000 km so far.
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I have made a rough sketch and two crummy pictures.
There are approx. 4 mm between centers of the two pins.
Some of the plugs you have linked to look close, but none gets the details quite right.
The tabs on the underside on the drawing are two "guide ridges" with a triangular locking tab in between.
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Given the price - I hope you are mistaken ;-)
I took a side repeater to the local car parts shop and asked for a suitable plug. He looked at it and said "we do not stock Skoda parts" :-(
I have typed all numbers on the plastic into the search engine on Hella.de without finding anything.
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I want to fit XGB100310L side repeaters to an elderly 90".
This part is aparently standard on Freelander, Disco2 and very recent Defenders.
I'm looking for a part number for the 2-pin plug that has to be used to connect to it.
Also an exact to-scale drawing of the cutout I need to make in the wing would be most helpfull as well.
The repeater has "Hella" embossed in the plastic lens, so I suppose a non-landrover partname and partnumber must exist as well.
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Thank you gentlemen - really helpful
Chrisp
In my 1988 90" they are all regular M8 8.8 in various lenghts. Not a fancy head either, regular 13 mm hexagonal heads.
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hey
the thread snapped at the hollow section where the magent is.
lucky it happned when it was out.
1996 300 tdi defender transfer sump plug
can i please have the part number?
cheers
cam
According to the parts catalog, the LT230 "Plug-drain" has part number 599552
That is the same part number as the sump plug for the 2,5 n/a and TD diesel engines
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hi,my sump his the same as the one's in pictures, already to put back together do i use gasket or can i use sealant,200 tdi as three longer bolts at front of sump according to haynes manual my bolts are all same size. thanks for all your help wayne
I have tried it on the 2,5 TD which has a different part number for the sump, but the general concept is supposedly the same.
The LR was on a lift raised high enough that I could stand upright underneath the sump. I had spent around ten minutes pulling and lifting and showing the sump in all angles and directions I could imagine, but could not get it to clear the exchaust and oil pump at the same time.
I gave up and decided to remove the exchaust in order to get more wiggle room.
The moment I took my hands off the sump and turned to move out from under the car to grab spanners to remove the exchaust, the sump fell off all by itself, the edge of the sump hit the top of my thigh, drenched my trousers in the remaining oil, then hit the floor.
My thigh had a nice blue mark 10x15 cm mark for one week, which turned a really nasty shade of yellow for the next week, then slowly faded away during the third week.
The lip of the sump that hit the concrete floor was bent over and cracked.
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Hey,
I'm thinking about doing a small (2 week ish) expedition sometime and there was a recent article in LRO with the top 10 detinations and norway looked quite attractive and the sort of wilderness place i would like to go.
Has anyone been or got any info as it seems scarce online.
Thanks
Pete
Norway is a wonderfull vacation destination. This summer we spent a couple of weeks driving up there.
However be aware that your car will have to stay on the road. While many mountain roads takes you an hours drive away from the nearest settlement, it will still be a very well maintained public gravel road. Offroading as such is prohibited.
Walking or riding a bicycle on the trails in the national parks and other wilderness is however perfectly legal and encouraged. There are even signposted trekking routes in all the popular areas. There are huts with beds and stove etc. out along the trekking routes that you can book in advance if you fancy a several day trek in the wilderness without carrying too much equipment on your back.
Ohh an do plan on spending a week driving around the fjords. They are the most magnificient place on Earth.
Have a look at the Norway Land Rover Club
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The Land Rover spare parts catalogue says on page E47 that the bolts holding the rear drive flange on a 90" 1988 should be M10x50.
However on my 1988 90" TD we came across a set of bolts of a slightly smaller diameter. We tested with a known M10 nut which the bolts were too slim to fit. All the ten bolts were the same size. The axle is the standard drumbraked item with 10 splines in the 3.54 rover diff.
Of course in theory some prior owner could have helicoiled all drive flange bolt holes in the hubs to some size slightly smaller than M10.
Have any of you encountered a set of hubs that came from the factory with drive flange bolt holes there were not M10? Perhaps some hubs off a series vehicle would fit and have a different size?
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As above super pro are regarded as good, however it may be worth considering the original LR parts - they last very very very well and bushes are not the major restriction in articulation.
I have had a set of blue Polybush on my 90" for a year no. They are still intact and provide the same ride as when fitted.
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I've heard similar before. You should be able to undo a Phillips screw without appling pressure 'into' the screw, just by turning the handle. The effort required is as much about the shape of the tip of the screwdriver as it is about the shape of the handle.
I bought some Wera Lasertip Pozidrive screwdrivers today.
They have sharp ridges on the tips and hold onto a screw until approx 15 degrees from pointing downwards. Mightly impressed with them. Expensive though. Beware that Wera also have cheaper product lines.
These replace a set up Bacho black&grey handle, that wore after light usage during the refurbishing of one apartment. However I have Bacho srewdrivers from the old days that are still going string despite lots of use and abuse.
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XZL's are nowhere near an MT, they're more a very chunky looking AT for military/expedition trucks.
Agreed. Also xzl's have little grip on wet tarmac. Have switched away from them for that reason.
The upsides are that xzl's balance easily, are nicely circular and run true, have moderate noise for what they are that the sidewalls are rather solid and take airing down well.
Have you considered the Cooper Discoverer STT?
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Approximate numbers:
Distance 20000 km
Tax £500
Insurance £1000
That's for an unmodified 1988 90" TD registered as a "van for private use" ie. no seats allowed in the rear.
The insurance covers liability, theft, accident damage etc. Liability incusrance alone can be had for approx £550
The only reason the insurance is this low is because it's a group deal arranged by the danish land rover club.
Maybe I should move to Britain, the prices you quote sounds really attractive in comparison ;-)
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Thanks all for the info!
Pomerania sounds very interesting!
Is there a web page with details anywhere? (I've done a quick google but can't seem to find anything relevant)
Thanks again.
The official webpage: http://www.njz.pl
;) 
the CV joint splines were worn on both the CVJ & drive flange, now I need to know how to get the shaft out of the CV joint...do you have to press it out?
Concealed switch
in International Forum
Posted