tychoS
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Posts posted by tychoS
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My 1988 90" TD has 402.000 km / 250.000 miles on the odometer
The engine is still on std. size pistons. The LT77 was swapped for a refurb. a year ago.
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Last summer we drove our 1988 90" TD softtop from Copenhagen, up along the Atlantic coast of Norway, across Lapland to Vardø then back through the forests of Sweden. 6686 km in a bit more than two weeks.
At the time we started, the odometer said 382.000 km, the engine is still on std. size pistons.
I brought some spares, oil, grease, tools etc., but only needed to tighten a hoseclamp and top up the engine oil at the regular interval of 0.5 liter pr. 1000 km driven.
Actually the only reason for the hoseclamp issue was that I had been changing the timing belt a few days before departure and apparently not put the hose back on properly.
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I used one of that type for a timing belt change. So far it has lasted approx 20.000 km with no signs of trouble ;-)
It's a damn inaccurate piece of "#¤%& though, but apparently good enough for the tolerances on a Land Rover engine.
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its always worth checking the date code on yourtyres! i went to view some s/h rangemasters, lots of tread, slight crazing, but 2 were early 90's and 2 were '83 if I remember. I politely declined!
The cracking pattern visible in the picture in the grooves looks like what you would expect to see on a tyre that's some years old.
It's perfectly sane to replace a set of tires due to age, despite them having plenty of thread left. Old tires can be quite dangerous for a number of reasons.
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It is (was!) an XZL and was on the N/S rear. It went with an impressive bang! It must have deflated very suddenly because there were no problems cornering previously. Although my 110 handled like a pig on 3 tyres I was able to nudge, and straighten up gradually to the hard shoulder without mishap.
I've had umpteen inner tubes fail, but never delamination of the tyre itself and wasn't aware that XZLs suffered with this.
I know XZLs are not the most brilliant of off road tyres when it comes to mud, but I have found them pretty good all round and quite well mannered in the wet on tarmac.
As I don't have the luxury of a garage or a shed I am more or less limited to one set of tyres. Most of my driving is on tarmac, but I do a fair amount of laning and forest tracks. I don't do mud plugging. So what would you suggest as an all round tyre?
Thanks
Steve
For mostly tarmac with some field & forest I've had good experience with Cooper Discoverer Radial LT
http://www.coopertire.com/html/products/tires_lighttruck.aspx?page=discoverer_lt
I'm running BFG AT at the moment for the same type of driving. In comparison they are less good on wet tarmac than the Coopers and they have a very annoying tendency to pick up stones - klak - klak - klak - klak
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Adwest ?
http://www.adwest-engineering.co.uk
My 6-bolt box is on it's way out too. When it's finally time to replace it, I intend to ask Adwest if they can supply a suitable replacement.
Watch out for differences in pipe thread for the oil connections.
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I want to replace the seats in my 1998 110 CSW, my lady just can't get comfortable and 'she who must be obeyed' needs to be comfortable. the problem is the angle of the back rest.
Looking around, new seats are a fortune and seats on auctions seem to go for silly money.
Question, will the seats from a Discoovery or Range Rover slot straight in? If the front ones do, what about the middle row?
If I change, I don't want it to look a dogs dinner.
Thanks in advance
Bob R
I fitted new foam and covers to the seats in our 90". It made a huge improvement. The seats are now very comfortable.
I've had no complaints over seat comfort from the female passenger seat occupant at all since then, not even during a 15 day 6686 km road trip.
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Does anybody out there know if RRC rostyles are the same width as the defender ones. I can't measure mine without taking a tyre off
I've read about 40 threads here and am still unsure..so please have a look below at what I'm thinking and advise.
Basically I'm running two sets of wheels on the old bird - 245/70 BFG mud terrains on Disco caster alloys for everyday shoes and Greenway Machos on Rostyles that came off a defender for playdays, both with 30mm spacers.
I'm thinking of putting a bigger set of tires on the rostyles as I prefer the original look of them but want to go as big as possible because i'v fitted a 2" suspension lift and the current combo's are a bit small looking. I also have a set of ABS plastic cut away arches to fit.
So really the question is what's the max size I can fit to the rostyles (I'm thinking Hankook Dynapro RT03's, 235/85's) or If I went for 265/75's would I have to go for disco steels for width?
My rostyle rims have NTC2165 TUBED 16x6JKx33 stamped into them. So 6 inches wide.
There's another part number for tubeless rostyle rims, I'am under the impression the width & offset is the same, but do not have one available for confirmation.
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Is there an easy way to cut a rectangular hole 19mm x 13mm for a rocker switch in, say 1mm aluminium ?
Last time, I marked, drilled and filed and it took quite a time to get a good fit. I did not think of using an old chisel.
Any better ideas ?
All help gratefully received.
Regards
Richard
PS THis http://ae.rsdelivers.com/product/m10-rectangular-hole-cutter-193x131mm/0600155.aspx is what I have in mind, just cheaper.
You use a drill made for drilling square holes of course ,-)
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=92&page=4
The Math behind the drill, the "Reuleaux triangle"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reuleaux_triangle
As for a quick, dirty and cheap approach for drilling one or a few holes in thin aluminium that does not have to be super perfect, I use ordinary round drills and small files.
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Freeze dried rations, both food and cake/chocolate variants, water, proper coffee, and a Trangia.
"Turmat" from Norway are the most tasty freeze dried rations, "Expedition Foods" from UK cost half as much and are nearly as good.
More often than not we go to a local restaurant/pizza place/cafe/whatever, but having food and coffee with us means we are free to roam the countryside without having to be limited by restaurant closing times and the like.
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Here's an option - http://www.motortech4x4.co.nz/prt.php
PRT - Portable Rescue Tree.
Don't know who sells them in the UK nowdays.
John
I have one of those "PRT - Portable Rescue Tree". Very easy to stow away. Roughly the size of a large briefcase.
Haven't had it for very long so not yet enough experience using it to say how good it is in various types of soil/mud/sand/etc.
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ive never been off road and to be honest my vehicle has had no extras that you would associate with an off roading vehicle its just a factory setting 110 county.
today i went up a tiny forest track thats not off road by any stretch of the imagination.
its covered in snow and when i got to the end i didnt fancy the drop in front of us so i decided to go back.
^but i thought use the lock in case you start to loose grip, so.... i engaged it and the little light came on. i put it in reverse and ????? no bite from the clutch why?
i try to undo it and it wont go off??why
then i try to use the low box and it went in reverse so i thought ha ha im fine but when i tried to go forward nothin again
after a while i mustve done something right but what did i do wrong in the 1st place?
Try holding the little gearlever in position for the first couple of meters driving after switching between low and high range. I've found in several Land Rovers that the reduction box would jump back into neutral if this was not done.
Also keep in mind that the central lock will usually not engage or disengage at the moment you move the lever, but only after a couple meters driving. Therefore you have to think ahead and engage it shortly before it's needed. Make sure you do not drive with the central differential lock engaged while on hard firm ground.
If there's no Land Rover club in or near Hamburg, then consider driving north and joining The Danish Land Rover Club we do offer beginners offroad driving courses for new members.
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Thanks for all the info, following which I'm almost set on 235/85R16 on 6.5" steel (modular) rims.
Just the actual tyre to choose now but there's loads of advice on that on previous topics.
Malcolm
I suppose your present rims are the rostyles seen on your avatar picture, since they have the dimensions you mention?
I've run 235/85R16 on rostyles. The 6" rim width seemed to fit the tyre well.
Rostyle rims for the Land Rover have been made both as tubed and tubeless. Look for the word "TUBELESS" or "TUBED" stamped into the metal around the center hole.
If you have the tubeless type, I suggest you keep the rims and fit new 235/85R16 tyres.
If you have the tubed type, scrap them and fit something else unless you absolutely want tubes for some reason. Good suggestions for replacements have been provided by others in this thread.
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The ARB bumpers are a face mount bumper, so going by that should be fine.
I've seen an 8274 mounted to an ARB, and seen it perform well.
Don't know if all ARB bumpers are alike though.
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What alternatives to the BFGoodrich Mud (KM) tyres are there?
I will be wanting something between 235/85 R16 and up to 33"
Simex pattern would be nice, but are a bit too off-road biased for my predicted use.
Thanks in advance
Cooper Discoverer STT2
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Consider the more recent AGM types of starter batteries.
AGM stands for Absorbed Glass Mat, meaning there are glass fiber mats sandwiched in between the metal plates. The acid is absorbed in the glassfiber mats so it will not spill out in case the case cracks in a crash or roll-over, and you hcan have the battery sit at an angle with no worry.
I've had one in my 90 for a couple of months now. A Varta G14. So far it has been super good at being re-charged quickly and holding a charge even after a week of standing at -15 degree celcius.
They are not the cheapest though.
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hi all, electical problem on my rebuild defender 90 with a 200tdi disco engine,problem is wired alternator back up, on doing so crossed spanner on terminals and big blue flash jumped out my skin
and now battery light stays on when ignition is turned off, being informed by forum member that diodes knackered, or igntion wiring incorrect, checked ignition everything fine there,don't know anything about diodes so wondering if i could fit my spare alternator which came off the old td engine, as anybody done this and has any pictures as regards wiring set ups i would be very grateful 
cheer's defender dinkyTry swapping the voltage regulator unit, which consists of the diodes, the brushes etc.
Last time I bought one it cost me slightly less than £10. With the alternator out of the vehicle it took me a couple minutes to swap the regulator unit.
I've seen two different types of regulators on Land Rover alternators on NA/TD/200tdi types of engines. It the alternator on the table, you will easily see which type you have. In some cases it's hidden under a plastic cover covering one end of the alternator. (Links are only to get images so you know what to look for, I have no connection with the actual auctions) :
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663 or 664 is about the biggest single battery you can fit in a 90/110 seatbox. These have are commonly fitted to small trucks/plant and have plenty of umph. 110-115Ahr and 750-1000 CCA depending on spec. I paid about £65 from my local battery specialist when I last bought one, for my Iveco. But be careful some are slightly bigger than others and cover the terminals, the rear one will be close to the lid.
I had a 663 also known as 61047 in the battery box of a 90" 1988.
It fits, but the negative terminal is nearly touching the seatbox lid. There is room for a longer battery though.
Now I have a Varta G14 in the same car. It's a few cm lower and therefore a more comfortable fit.
The G14 uses the new spill proof AGM technology, where the 663/61047 uses liquid acid. I know which of the two I prefer to have under the seat in a crash+roll ;-)
Varta G14
Capacity - 95Ah
CCA(EN) - 850A
L x W x H - 353 x 175 x 190 mm
Varta 663/61047
Capacity - 110A
CCA(EN) - 680A
L x W x H - 347 x 173 x 234 mm
http://www.barden-uk.com/quick-view-varta-commercial.html
http://www.tayna.co.uk/catalog/619/0/Car-Batteries-Varta-Gel-AGM-Ultra-Dynamic-Batteries-page1.html
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Certainly make your lights brighter but unfortunately they are illegal to use on the road.
Any lighting on a vehicle has to have E marked bulbs in compatible E marked fittings.
As the existing headlight units are not E marked for use with HID lamps they can't be used on the road.
I use these on my 300 tdi, I find them very good and a lot cheaper.
I fitted a pair of "Wipac Crystal Halogen" from Paddocks in place of some cracked old ones. They came fitted with osram bulbs. I couldn't be more satisfied. High beam lights up the road and road sides well far enough ahead, and low beam provides lots of light as well as having a very sharply defined light pattern so incoming traffic is not bothered. They were really cheap as well. Paid more to replace the bowls they sit in than replacing the lights & bulbs.
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Assuming it’s a 4L 98 - 02
The book times are 6.75 hours to remove & install both head gaskets. If you only have one done then it is 5.65 hours for the left and 5.35 hours for the right.
The book time to strip and rebuild both heads is 13.5 hours.
Is there a table of Land Rover "book times" for various repairs available on the net somewhere?
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I'm on the A1 in North Beds I have attached a photo and yes they are the hot plugs. I figure it must be simple to change them. Do they just lever out? Once the new ones are in will I need to get the head skimmed?
Are there any other problems I should check for. This is my first Land Rover so I am finding my way slowly.
Thanks for your help.
Sorry for being awfully late in responding Siddy.
Yes the hotplugs can be pulled or wiggled out fairly easily.
The locating peg is there to keep the plug from rotating in the hole, the plug is kept in the head simply by half of it being over the engine block when the head is placed on the block.
The cracks in your photo are bad enough that I would change all four hotplugs. You do not want one to break up and ruin the cylinder wall.
There's no need to have the head skimmed just because you changed the hotplugs. However if the head has been skimmed at some point, the hotplugs will not sit flush with the surface of the head, and you will therefore have to have the plugs skimmed so they do sit flush with the head. I've never been in that particular situation myself though, so cannot advice on the best way to get this done.
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if its currently using the original defender LT77, then a defender R380 wouldnt be a direct swap.
The 300TDi/R380 combo is much longer, and the engine sits much further forward in the engine bay, so while the box would bolt on, it wouldnt sit in the same place.
If its currently using the Disco transmission, then a defender R380 should swap in, and should move the stick to the correct place.
Actually a 90/110" with an LT77 behind a 2,5 n/a, td or 200tdi is "mid-engined", which is a part of what gives them such good high speed road holding ;-)
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I have had the vehicle for 18 months never been the best starter nor get me anywhere in a hurry but then I'm quite happy to let the world pass me by. 180k miles on the clock. Started to misfire breathing back through the inlet. Turning over by hand revealed only two reasonable compressions per revolution. Removed head and blown gasket between 3&4. The bores show not a great deal of lip and cross hatching is still clearly visible with minimal movement of the pistons. All of the inserts where the injectors fit have some cracks. Are these cracks a major problem? I seem to remember reading somewhere that are pretty much standard. Is it worth sourcing another head rather than re-working this one
Cheers Sid
The parts with the cracks, are they the round inserts with the little square holes in them?
If so they are called hotplugs and they do crack after a while on this particular model of engine.
Hot plug ERR1223
Locating peg PA105101L
It's only a problem if the cracks gets to a state that the hotplug might break up into bits that will fall onto the piston.
You can buy new hotplugs and the little locating pegs for sensible money. Swapping is fairly strait forward, ease out the old ones, put the new ones in.
and now battery light stays on when ignition is turned off, being informed by forum member that diodes knackered, or igntion wiring incorrect, checked ignition everything fine there,don't know anything about diodes so wondering if i could fit my spare alternator which came off the old td engine, as anybody done this and has any pictures as regards wiring set ups i would be very grateful 
Concerning Wheels and Tyres
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Here's mine. 235/85R16 BFG AT on wolf rims, standard suspension.