DiscoStu
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Posts posted by DiscoStu
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Thanks Bowie, not as befuddled as you claim to be eh?
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Hi All
I'm trying to find information on removing the dashboard from a 300tdi disco. I am having no joy with the search function. where am I going wrong?
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"Dash removal"
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10 pages of unrelated topics....
Is it just poor or am I missing somthing?
Stu.
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Check if you have 12v to the stop solenoid on the pump, if not, run a wire from the battery +ve to the solonoid - I'm afraid I cant help with the immobiliser wiring but that should get you mobile...
Stu.
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Hi All
Well, I've thrown in the towel on my current repair/welding project - the truck had just too much rot than I had the time to fix
So, a new plan of attack, last night I got an excellent body shell with NO welding needed anywhere!! It's still attatched to a chassis etc but we plan to change that soon.
My questions, for anyone who has ever done a body swap, is what are the things you wished you had thought of? What made things easier? What would you avoid doing next time?
I'm lucky that I have access to two two post ramps and a decent workshop so I'm hoping it wont be that difficult to do.
One other thing, the shell is off a 96 V8 Auto, the rest is a 96 300tdi manual. Is it as simple as changing the pedal box and adding the slave cylinder to the bulkhead?
All thoughts appreciated,
Stu.
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Mailorder 4x4 - I cant praise them highly enough. Excellent service and knowledgeable sales people.
Stu.
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They do work but as FF says, there are different types for a reason.
I used my alloy nuts on modulars for about 1500 miles while I got a set of steels sorted - no issues but I'm sure a sharp eyed plod or MOT man would have disagreed.
The marshall at an RTV did object but said get them sorted for next time - interestingly, a rule clarification was published in our last club mag, any LR fitment wheel may be used but must use the correct nut for the wheel.
It's nice to know I can still make waves...
Stu
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Just to add my experiences.
The last couple of times I used paddocks, there have been items missing and incorrect items from/in the package - replacements were then very slow to arrive. I won't bother again.
I now use mail order 4x4, they have been very helpful, carry everything (Almost) a disco owner needs, and its generally bearmach components. All orders over £50 are delivered free and they havent made even one mistake yet, must be 10 seperate orders. I cant praise them highly enough.
I think the current economic conditions play into the hands of companies like paddocks, I've no doubt there phones are ringing off the hook with people willing to take a chance on shoddy service to save a tenner...
Stu.
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Here's mine:
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Its all down to pressure.
Water can reach temperatures higher than 100 degrees without changing state if the pressure is high enough.
I'm probably wrong, but dredging the recess of memeroy I think its described as "An inverse relationship between temperature and pressure" and it may even be Charles' or perhaps Henry's law. I cant be bothered googling to confirm...
Stu.
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No-one has mentioned replacing the tensioner bearing. Is this not possible in the same way as with the fan belt tensioner?
I don't have a Tdi so I'm ready to be corrected on the above. Fan belt tensioner bearing (skf) can be just a few £ vs the whole assembly @45 for a cheapy one and very simple to swap over.
Just a thought from a penny pincher.
Quite right. It is possible on the 300. Last time I looked, the bearing could be had for about £6. Affordable even to a student.
You could fit it between Jeremy Kyle and loose women
Stu.
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I passed this big boy in Nantwitch a month or so ago.
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Great post!
My beloved 1994 disco was nicked in June, I've since replaced it with a 95 model with a genuine 83,000 mile stamped up history for £230
Trouble is, it's got a welding list like yours - I've made a start - the boot floor is out and I've finished patching the transmission tunell, now I just need to do both sills, passenger and driver floors, patch the rear body member, rear arches and door post bottoms. Oh and the NS inner wing. Happy days eh?
Thanks for the pics, inspiration and guidance just when I need it.!
Stu.
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Hi all,
Well the worst has happened. Sometime between between midnight saturday and 8am this morning some git has taken my truck off the drive. Didn't hear a thing, no glass smashed, just gone.
Those of you who've been through this will understand when I say I feel absolutely gutted. Five years and lots of time and money have been put into a truck that I felt I'd just got right.
I hope it turns up but I think its probably gone for good. It'll be in a yard or workshop somewhere being ripped to bits. I really hope I find out who took it....
Please keep an eye out for the following:
Equipe ally tank guard
Ally steering guard
2 x QT diff guards
2 x yellow axles
5 x black modular wheels with Recip Trail tyres
Chequer plate tailgate panel and two chequer plate dickie seat hole covers
Scorpion HD rear bumper (bent upwards on the R/H corner)
HD front winch bumper and Champion 9500 winch
It's a black 1994 300tdi, reg is L663 KBH, 167000 on the clock and much loved by my family. If you hear or see anything, contact me via here or on 07825 135190 or contact St Helens police on 0151 709 6090.
A reward is available.
Thanks and here's hoping!
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Thanks for the replies lads.
So far today, it hasn't worked at all, appears to have packed up completely. With any luck it'll stay that way and cause me no more trouble
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Hi all, I'm having a bit of bother...
My alarm has gone a bit funny maybe 5 times in the past couple of years, never usually takes more than unlocking/relocking the drivers door to reset it. I should probably mention that the fob, even with a new battery no longer operates the alarm and hasn't for about 18 months.
All I need to do is lock the drivers door, indicators flash three times and its set and immobilised. Upon return, unlock the drivers door, indicators flash once and it starts on the turn of the key.
In the past week my problems have intensified. When I lock the drivers door, the alarm goes off (Horn and indicators). I quickly unlock the door and relock - unlock to deactivate. Usually successful first time but sometimes takes a few attempts to stop it sounding.
Most of the time when I try to start it its immobilised - no cranking, full dash lights etc. I have to get out and re-do the lock unlock bit - I'm now getting good at judging whether it will work or not by the indicator flashes or absences of - no flashes means still immobed, one flash means its probably ok. Sometimes this is easy, one attempt - other times its five minutes of trying and worrying its not going to work.
I've done a bit of searching and i don't think its a spider problem - its a 1994 300Tdi with a single button fob - if I'm reading right, they didn't have spiders.
Has anyone got any ideas what could be causing this or how I can fix it?
Perhaps more importantly, how can I bypass or deactivate the alarm and immobiliser completely (leaving the central locking working) until I get round to fixing it or replacing it? I have a feeling its going to leave me stranded at just the wrong moment...
Any advice appreciated,
Stu.
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Thanks for the help lads. It was the master cylinder. Fitted the new one, bled up and problem gone.
Stu.
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I totally agree about Britpart stuff and I dont use it myself. He has been and got a bearmach master cylinder this morning, we'll try it later.
Regarding the pedal, it seems like a "Normal" pedal, good, not spongy, no free play. When they start to bind - good question, I'll investigate later.
Cheers all.
Stu.
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Hi all, wondered if you could offer any advice.
A mate of mine has a V8 Disco 1. His troubles started off with a spongy pedal, he rectified it with a new servo, master cylinder, discs and pads all round.
He now tells me that he cant even drive half a mile before his brakes start to bind on and he has to stop or return home for fear of getting stranded. He's been at this for four weeks now and reckons he is now on his 4th Britpart master cylinder.
I asked him all the questions I felt were the obvious ones but he seems to have looked at all the things I would have checked too.
What do you guys think could be causing this? I'll not sully the water by telling you all the things I asked him to check, kind of want a fresh take on it then we can start from the beginnig again and try to get to the bottom of the problem.
Any and all suggestions appreciated,
Stu.
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I love it, really cool idea and a great job too. I'm off to fiddle with my nVidia powered lappy to see if it will do the same!
I'll have to get another truck too of course, I'm sure it wont take kindly to being airborne, immersed then shaken to death every weekend
Stu.
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A mate of mine has just made 3 of these for some of the lads in our club. I'll take some pictures next tuesday and post them up for you, sorry I cant do it sooner!
Stu.
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This is my first attempt. Its gone through various evolutions since including using a southdown snorkel top which looks miles better than the mushroom pre cleaner shown here.
http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=...&highlight=
Stu
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This is my disco on 7.50 R 16's that I picked up on ebay for reasonable money. I've been very pleased with them so far, they're Recip Trail.
My truck has a 2" lift and I had to trim the arches a little. Looks very cool tho
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Can it be done though?
I recently changed my CV joint, unfortunately the swivel had taken a bit of a hammering getting the truck home and the seal is now leaking. It's had new bearings and stub axle along with the CV so I know they're sound, can the swivel housing be removed as a unit? Admittedly it would only save half an hour but its got me thinking - I'm sure it could.
Then its just ball off, new seal and ball back on then the housing and caliper... What am I missing?
Stu.
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Loose the bracket and use the single bolt with big rubber washers either side?
300tdi
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Hi Jason.
I'd advise you to have a good long look at this truck. Get the boot carpet out, get underneath with a torch and check the sills, body mounts and anything else you can see. Under the bonnet have a good look at inner wings and battery tray. Also check rear wheel arches with the back door open if it's a five door.
There are literally thousands of Disco's for sale every week. Keep your cash in your pocket, dont jump in uintil your sure. The price difference between a truck that needs welding and one that's had it done is not much - if you dont fancy having to pay for/do the job, be careful!
Stu.