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ByCamelToVietnam

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    Haywards Heath, West Sussex

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  1. ByCamelToVietnam
    Thanks again for all the advice. I ended up just putting the slave in without seating the clip onto the fork. No problems thus far. Bleeding the clutch has definitely improved the pedal feel and with some adjustment of the pedal. Biting points is a bit more central and off the floor now. Possibly could be this and imagine it will be this if it fails. I have a fork which has the plate behind the ball point could this still break through?
  2. ByCamelToVietnam
    Thanks for the reply guys. Master cylinder went in no trouble. But, I've had a mare with the slave cylinder and stupidly pulled on the pushrod and its come out with the clip. I've tried to put the clip back in but struggling to find the right position for the clip to go in. Reading around it sounds like the clip isn't necessary, a dob of grease will keep it seated. What are peoples thoughts on no clip? I'm not at all keen on engine/gearbox out job. Cheers Ben
  3. ByCamelToVietnam
    That's what I was thinking Western, although surely if I'm not loosing any fluid out of the reservoir there is no leak? Or could the part be failing internally? cheers Ben
  4. ByCamelToVietnam
    Hi all, I have a Defender 91" 200tdi and recently the clutch pedal has started to feel soft and the biting point has dropped. On one occasion it was very hard to change gears. The clutch is about 2yrs old heavy duty ( last time it went it was the bearing/ pivot ball I think). Pedal has always been slightly soft for the first inch, but now is noticeable softer till about an inch or two off the bottom. No leaks or noticeable drop in fluid in the reservoir. I thought it might just need the pedal to be adjusted which I've done but still no luck. Any suggestions? Cheers, Ben
  5. ByCamelToVietnam
    Changing the fuel filter seems to have solved the issue, the old one was all filled up dirty chippy oil! Cheers guys
  6. ByCamelToVietnam
    - I'll replace the fuel filter asap. - yeah white smoke on startup then it calms down and disappears - Ill give the injectors a clean as well - Timing belt was changed January after it snapped on the motorway
  7. ByCamelToVietnam
    - I bled it quickly before work to see if it helped, but might not have done it throughly enough - would I know if there was air in the system straight away? - Last changed September 15 - Been using biofuel for about 1.5months
  8. ByCamelToVietnam
    Hi guys, Recently my 200tdi Defender 90 has lost power preventing me from accelerating above 40mph, normally being forced to drop down into 3rd gear. When starting it can be erratic, sometimes straight away sometimes a bit slow, normally with some white smoke. 1st and 2nd gear the problem is not noticeable until you get the end of the drive of each gear which seems to happen much quicker than it use to. This symptom seems to be the same in 3rd as well, can't get there in 4th. Notes: - Recent clutch change - Using biofuel - no problems prior to this - Fuel line had loosened it self - just tightened it back up - Engine sounds a bit off - Sometimes idle I can feel like its about to stall, it wont. Any ideas what this could be? Cheers
  9. ByCamelToVietnam
    Ive cleaned the battery connections etc.. = didnt make it start any faster, now the dreaded grinding on startup has started again! Also tried running a direct earth from starter to negative on the battery ( was fairly low amp wire?) = same again, still slow. Am going to go for a drive to charge the battery up as 5 startups is starting to drain the battery. Will try the direct jump leads from starter to battery after! thanks for the suggestions, hopefully ill find this nagging fault!
  10. ByCamelToVietnam
    Well simply putting the unit in after testing it and its working yay.. very odd considering ive put it in several times and on this occasion it works? However, there's still the same problem which i was hoping to eradicate which is the slow start. When i turn the key it just seems a bit sluggish, not as instant as it use to be. Any tips on how to improve this? I have cleaned all the earths but maybe worth trying again! Thanks in advance
  11. ByCamelToVietnam
    Ron ill give it a try tomorrow, fingers crossed! All i can say is it wasnt me boys haha!
  12. ByCamelToVietnam
    I have found a stray brown wire coming out of the starter relay which seems a bit suspect?
  13. ByCamelToVietnam
    Been alternating between 2 battery's one v new and charging in between. Have just tested motor out of the truck and works as it should and kicks hard. Leaves me thinking it's the wiring from the battery to the solenoid...?
  14. ByCamelToVietnam
    Just checked and received 12.2v when turning the key. Seems to be good.
  15. ByCamelToVietnam
    Hi all, Having some very annoying starting issues at the moment. Problem: - Turn the key to start = Click (Lights come on as they should on the dash) - No turn/noise from the starter motor Recent changes: - Replaced clutch master, slave and hose - Have a history of 3 starters in about 3 years. What i've done since: - Taken starter motor out and cleaned and replaced solenoid (note top left SM thread onto engine has gone, so replaced with M6 until I remove the engine at some pint to rethread) - Cleaned all earths and connections - Tested SM bridging the live solenoid directly to the motor connection = starter spins but does not engage to start her up. Has been going on for over a week now and cant find a solution. Now very frustrating! Cheers Ben
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