guyadawson

As I understand it, all Range Rover 300 TDI left the factory with a flanged idler or tensioner and an plain sprocket. I assume mine has been modified, as it is the other way round. Is there any definite way to tell which type is fitted?

Hi The engine is actually in an RRC, but I hoped for a bigger audience in here... I'm in the middle of changing the belt, at 144000. it looks like it has been modified, as it already has a flanged pulley on the crankshaft. I have a complete set of pulley, idler and tensioner, and will definitely change the latter. What I wondered was, is the any real need to replace the crankshaft pulley? There is no sign of oil loss from the front seal, so I'd rather not disturb it (less things to go wrong). What does the team think?

Hi there Just thought I'd share this. I have two fobs for my car, one which never worked and the other which misfires. The slightest vibration activates it, which means it takes several attempts to lock and unlock the car, and it goes through batteries. The final straw came when I was unable to open the car without setting off the alarm. So I resolved to sort it out. Turned out that both fobs had faulty switches, and a little research led me to these http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=2056845&CMP=i-bf9f-00001000. A little surgery later, and I now have one perfect fob, with other scheduled to go under the knife.

Strangely, one of the hardest parts of writing software is coming up with names for stuff. So once something has a name, it tends to stick, even after it's been outgrown.

Just out of curiosity, do people relocate the front dampers when converting for air to coils?

Don't know the date, but I was talking with a chap who had a rolling chassis on show on the London 2 Brighton, and he said they changed it when they added the rear anti-roll bar.

Hi All Just when you think you are beginning to understand Range Rovers... As I was driving home this evening, I became aware of a faint steady noise coming from the OSR. At first I thought I was imagining it, but it got steadily louder. Whilst looking for somewhere to pull over, I tried the usual change speed / change revs routine, but the pitch stayed constant. When I did stop, it seemed to be coming from the sub-woofer, even though the radio was off. When I switched the radio on, there was a noticeable 'pop' and the noise stopped. Strangely, the radio came up 'code in', but I'm sure I entered the code since putting the battery back in after the car's summer lay off. Rising panic quelled, I carried on home, radio off. A little later the noise came back, quietly to begin with, as before. Switched the radio back on, 'pop' and silence. So, has anyone had a similar experience? I'm guessing it's a wiring issue, most likely a bad ground, but any pointers would be welcome. Regards Guy

Live in Tolworth, work at Goodwood.

Hi I'm looking for somewhere where I can drop off the bonnet of my RRC, and pick it up after it's been done. Any suggestions?

Ok, not LR related, but people here are way more helpful than elsewhere. The windows on my Renault have a metal plate bonded to the glass, which attaches to the regulator. I'm assuming the bonding agent is similar to the stuff holding the windscreen in my Range Rover. Problem is, the driver's window is parting company with it's plate. So, the question is, can anyone tell me the best way to re-attach the plate

I was at a breakers yard near Bognor today, and noticed a Freelander amongst the 'stock'. Not what I was after,Just thought I'd share.. http://www.srcsalvage.co.uk

I wonder if this might be of some use.... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=83549&p=71

If it's a soft dash, like mine... Removed the decker panel. Sounds easy, but the full sequence was ; Remove the wipers, and the rubber mouldings that surround the pivots. Remove the bonnet Remove 2 screws at the rear of the decker, accessed from the door aperture. Remove 4 bolts holding the decker to the wings. Very fiddly, especially if any of the rivnuts slip. Remove the screws along the front of the decker. Tie the bonnet hinge arms down. Ease the decker panel forward, releasing it from the lower wiper pivot seals and the lower windscreen seal. Once the panel is loose, release each hinge arm in turn, taking care not to bend the panel. The decker panel can now be removed.

If you do decide to insulate with foam slabs, then use 3 by 2 for "battens", and line it with 3/4 inch ply. That way, it's a doddle to add things hooks, shelf brackets, electric fitting boxes, etc.

Servos attached to the heater box.