steve_a
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Posts posted by steve_a
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I think technically you need to have someone do the gears while you fill. It's a crappy idea..
Now, I had this happen, and it was the oil cooler pipe leaking and allowing aeration of the oil, this meant that the oil was more volumous and so ran out. After a bit of experience and reading about, it seems the passenger (UK) side cooler pipe is a a bugger for leaking, breaking and generally ruining a good day. So I'd check that first.
Second, If you want to avoid the issue, obtain a P38 auto box dipstick and sump and do a swap over, you can then fill and check from the comfort of the engine bay. I have one on the kitchen counter ready to fit, I robbed the sump from a mate, and made a temporary dipstick, but it's a bit rubbish.
To be fair, on the V8 I had, the drain refill went easy and got the right level and the box was happy as afterwards, but the TD5 has been a bugger. Ashcroft are sending one out to me this week to replace. Those pipes are majorly suspect on all D2s AFAIK.
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I always punt OziExplorer, I used it for years in the UK on a Windows CE doofer, it's been moved to Android and works just as good, I reckon Des will have it taking advantage of the new platform fully before long. Cheap too, I think my licence for the PC and Android would be < $100.
You do need the PC version, it easier to prepare you mapping on there and then transfer to the phone. It's also great for looking back at the track data, since it records your trips.
Maps are a custom format, which is a negative, however you can create your own, it's easy. You get an image and then provide GPS reference points on the PC and you are done. I used to have a thing called StitchMaps that would create an Ozi map from Google earth automatically.
If you have maps for your area in Ozi format it's a no brainer for me, I had all of the UK, I have all of Oz now, but never had a reason to check out Canada.
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Could it be your replacement turbo is leaking oil into the inlet manifold?
That was my first thought too.
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The microlaunch source code is available and could be modified...
Does the registry key get changed? if so then the solution may be to right click the key and change the permissions to read only, it may be that microcat won't like that, but definitely worth a go.
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If your car is fitted with an amplifier, I think if you have a woofer in the back door it's a cert, then the input is probably wanting line level feeds and the interference isn't a ground issue.
Google line level converter to find one.
My last 97 D1 had this.
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This sounds like a bit of dodgy wiring I've seen before where someone mistakes a switched live, say lights, for an earth and things blow or stop working when you turn things on. I'd remove the stereo and check everything else, as that is the site of a lot of crimes against wiring...
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That's not the most useful temperature sender is it? I don't care about 45 to 75 degrees and do care about 80 to 110 and that is where it fizzles out.
Out of interest is that a one connector sender or 2 connector sender?
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It's often the silly stuff that catches you out, I was changing a light switch in the garage and chiselled out a bit of brick, no eye protection. Tiny bit flicked up in my face, like really small, didn't think much of it.
2 days later and I noticed a circle on my, the brick was dirty, scratched the eye and then got a good infection going. Thing is, apparently these corneal ulcers can breach the eye, pop it and then you lose it, no saving..
I pooped myself googling what it was and got down to the hospital to get it sorted, but yea, the idea of losing an eye is a real bum trembler. I wear eye protection most times now, in fact full face shield for some things (saw a bad picture of a shattered grinder disk that had opened a dudes face up but good!).
They are cheap enough, the tip I have is buy more than one pair:
- shed
- garage
- car
That way you have a chance of putting your hands on a pair in a few moments and won't skip it.
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As Boydie said,
I worked with a company that was manufacturing their item in China and I think you either need a test kit for each item off the line (depending on use) or to at least have a batch test. The quality was sinusoidal, all good when starting off, dropping off, then kick up the bum, back to good.
LED lights etc are a good candidate, since you can get a test rig made which the line can take each one for a basic test, which rejects at the factory, and a deep test for each 100 or 1000, this is what that company did, each item was put through a test rig to confirm the safety elements. Each batch was also sampled to ensure things like cosmetics were still acceptable.
Off the top of my head the LED stuff you'd have a power rig that it plugs into, you measure current draw to ensure wiithin %, an vision system to ensure no dud patches and may an IR sensor to check heat.
Batch checking would be subject it to a mini IP65 type thing, so check torque of screws, placement of gaskets etc.
A system like that would cost about $5000 in parts at a guess and about $10000 to develop (sorry, not worth me trying to figure out GBP these days), but pretty low risk. Turn around would be about a month to create.
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Tips, some obvious and not all I learned at the time for the discover.
1/ move the radiator reservoir out the way while working on the fuel cooler, access is a lot easier all of a sudden (this was a doh moment for me)
2/ don't do it the way stated
I tried to do it as stated and I struggled with rounding of bolts, rubbish access. I got it off but was unhappy to put it back on, so I removed the manifold.
If I had just removed the manifold then I reckon:
1/ 15 mins remove the fuel cooler, completely, may replace the o rings if it hasn't been done?
2/ 15 mins remove the manifold
3/ replace lower right bolt with stud for fuel cooler on manifold (this makes it so easy to put the pipe clip back in place and sort it out)
4/ 10 mins replace FPR including the pipe that is leaking for you.
5/ 30 mins to get manifold back on, I found it a pain to get to everything going back on
6/ 5 mins to get cooler back on
I do have more room, because the EGR is removed, along with all the gubbins at the side, but if/when I do it again, I'm just going to do it this way as it's less stress and timescale is a lot more certain.
Vital tool is an actual pipe clip clamp, like these on http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141491616702, they make those things not too bad to deal with, without them, forget about it.
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almost certainly the plastic roller(s) has broken up.
You can fix it by buying a new regulator or making a new roller from a $1 coin or, my preferred material, a plastic cutting board that is about 2mm thick. You jut cut a square section, a hole in the centre, countersuck and ideally thread a hole on the arm.
Otherwise a small countersink bolt and a nut on the other side, it needs to be trimmed right down to avoid fouling the reset of the mechanism, so a bit of thread lock is good since you won't have more than a few threads out the other side.
Need a few washers in there too so the block can still rotate.
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I have a bad feeling that you have bent the push rods. By running with way out of time it's about the same as getting a belt snap and the issues you normally have.
1/ Take the rocker off, the rocker arm off and check the push rods for any bending (roll on a flat surface).
2/ align the cogs as specified, e.g crank at arrow, cam at case line, pump with a 8.5mm drill bit in.
3/ put it all back together.
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You need to remove the whole control unit, I think you can do this a quick way by removing the clock and door switch on one side and the button panel on the other. You then reach in and press the tangs to push out the AC ECU.
Then unscrew the back panel of the ECU and you will see some bulbs which you twist and pull.
These bulbs are LR parts though, you will need to order them in before hand. You can replace with LED ones by stripping out the bulb from the holder, breaking off the stem of the LED and feeding the wires through, it's tight but I managed it.
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troopers are the reliable if agricultural option. ive driven one offroad. they're quite good.
but i'd have a disco. by far the best allrounder of them all imho.
Be careful which one you get though, the clever engine one (2001 ish?), 4JX1 IIRC, is a terrible engine design (great engine when it is running) and I wouldn't touch it with someone elses.
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I think the sensor on the bulkhead cuts the fuel and triggers the hazards after an impact, why it didn't cut the fuel as well if it was that I don't know.
The only other thing I could imagine is that a relay got a big knock and managed to connect, the keep current is a lot lower than make, IIRC, so it may have stayed in until ignition was turned off.
Just educated guessing though
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check for a weep from the fuel cooler if it has one as well, the front O rings appear to have a habit of leaking
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Well, I reckon Eddys picture, and also mine, are the correct alignment.
I took the top off the pump again and had a look at everything.
The part where the throttle shaft attaches had a kink in it, so taking a chance I straightened that.
The springs all looked ok, but I gave them a stretch out.
I put it back together, but this time didn't move the shaft through it's full range of motion (which on a bad might, maybe, cause the linkage to invert perhaps).
Put the top back on and got it idling stablely at 500rpm, which just happened to be the setting as it went back together, a bit of tinkering and it's now idling beautifully at 800rpm with no sign of variation.
Thanks for the pictures people!
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Thanks Eddy,
your alignment is the same as mine.. Though your arm is slightly different. There is heaps more diversity in these pumps than I thought there would be...
The head O ring wasn't too difficult, there is a great video by some guys who focus on doing VW pumps, but the technique is the same and the process nearly the same. I took a few photos on my way through which I'll put up soon.
I got the seal kit from tbc(something or other) on ebay, a spaco diesel brand.
I think I am going to pull the cover off again and have another look at the governor spring, now I've done a bit of googling and think I understand how it is all supposed to work.
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That sucks, hate finding the bodges by previous owners.
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Eightpot, that looks quite a different linkage setup, I was judging by Simon B's pictures in the tech archive that defender and disco were the same. What model is that off?
The other reason is that the spring linkage (actually part of the governor) underneath is potentially different.
Thanks for the picture though, it looks like it is pointing about the same direction, which isn't encouraging from my perspective.
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I changed the seals on the injection pump head a few weeks ago and it involved taking the top of the pump and a few other bits. I thought I had marked up the orientation of the throttle lever on top, but I completely marked the wrong parts.
Putting it back together I took a guess based on trying to get the idle right without a lever and had problems with wanting to idle too fast, about 1200 was the best I could manage, below that and it would drop to 500 then go back to 1500, settle to 1200, rinse repeat.
I found the lift pump was gone, so I suspected air in the system (the whole pump had to be emptied to do the job), new pump and the best I can now do is to get it down to 1000 idle. Runs fine, just idle issue.
I saw a throw away line that if the throttle shaft is not at the right orientation that getting a low idle will be impossible, which fits with me thinking that the governor spring bit is not sitting right.
So, the request, can I get at least 2 people to take pictures of the throttle shaft and post them here?
If I can compare a few, 2 at least 3 or 4 would be great, then I'm hoping that they are all the same and I can realign it.
I've put a picture of mine, to get an idea of the level of detail need to see how the mark aligns.
Thanks in advance!
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Oh look, an FJ Cruiser with a land rover badge...
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The only intriguing part is the two resin blobs over components, not sure why they'd bother if they were just simple timer or similar chips. The last time I saw a blob over anything happy commercial like that was a 413MHz RF chip, DM3B I think was the board part and 10 a penny from china.
But there is deffo no antenna for those ranges there and I can't see where one has fallen off.
I'm going for basic timer/shift chips and the LDR so that when it get light or dims the LEDS blink in a cyclic pattern.
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I can't believe you didn't try Triumph Rover Spares in SA. For the price of a small child they could have it sent to you and get it in just a few weeks.
Joking aside, they would have it, it's a sad sight is their yard with all perfectly repairable land rovers, it just depends on whether the price would be acceptable. I've not found them the cheapest of operators, but when you purchase any land rover being scrapped you get to name your price...
Td5 Fuel filter query
in Discovery Forum
Posted
The 200/300 TDI filter is compatible, BUT, the thread/hole on the bottom is different. You must have got one of those by accident. I only know it because I thought the filters were identical, and they can be used, but you can't get the water sensor in.
Hijacking - has anyone ever moved the filter, I've seen people complain about it's position, myself included when I found out where it was, but not actually seen anyone say they did it.