steve_a
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Posts posted by steve_a
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The D2 TD5 is not OBD2 compliant. Need Nanocom or Hawkeye
Griff
I guess I must have imagined plugging one in a few months ago and reading info off it
The main engine components are compliant, the extras, ABS etc and all that aren't part of the spec, but you can still talk to them if you know the address and commands.
If you crack those open you'll almost certainly find an ELM327 in there as it is the protocol.
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A standard OBD2 reader might give you some ideas, but I am sure the TD5 has a crank angle sensor, the same as the V8 and flashing those lights or one of them was an engine fault sensor failure indicator, so spend $40 and get a reader and see what codes are coming up..
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I notice you are in Lancs, you can get them off the shelf at http://www.lrparts.net/ up in Speke, they had about 3 there last week since I am in country and popped in to get some bitsCan you get new boots for ball joints ?One of my drag link ball joint boots has split, (though the joint is fine), and I know that's an MOT failure now.
Had a look on eBay and Brit-Car but couldn't find anything.
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To be fair, what did you expect inside the braided hose? The braid is to stop the expansion, the plastic is to keep the fluid in
QC is a funny thing, you don't check each part, at least not for this kind of application. You test 1 in 10 or 20 or 100. So this is an example of a bad part, not neccesarily a bad process.
Do take it back though, if they do have reasonable QC then they may check the batches around that to see if there was a problem affecting more than a single pipe.
I had all makes or something braided hoses and had a similar problem, though in that case it turned out to have a bunch of silicon sealant closing off one end! Much the same as you I cursed and swore, then rammed a doofer down it and out the plug of sealant popped. I was surprised...
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I did a rebuild on one here and when put back together it leaked from the top plate and gushed under presssure from the output shaft
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Does the injector just have a pressure transducer to tell the ecu about No 4 firing? If that's the case then it might be possible to just replace with a crank angle sensor or a separate transducer.
Anyone have any information, I'll look in Rave at the moment, but I suspect it just says "special"..
Edit:
An inductive sensor in No 4 injector body monitors
needle movement. This forms part of a ’closed loop’
system to control start of injection.
The system measures timing, relating the needle
movement signal to crank position (determined by
flywheel pulses from the engine speed sensor).
That's going to be tricky to replace with a secondary sensor I guess.
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I offer up a rather neat you tube vid..
It shows the potential range of motion (though probably way more than a rod would see due to the radius arms) which is exactly what I was imagining and I thought might be the cause of the bushes.
I agree that there will be wear on the bracket, though I'd prefer to have a couple of washers on the inside to take the pain and be replaced.
In fact I wondered if this was a comprimise of having washers inside to allow easier rotation, less binding and yet still hold tight.
I think with the 4mm metal that the bolt, under normal torque (88NM as I out above btw), should be tight on the bracket, yet not deforming it. This may also be a case for having washers front and rear to increase the surface contact (though surface area has no affect on fritctional force... ).
I'm right off polybushes for panhard rods, I just didn't see good life out of them on the 90 back in the UK, back there it was the only bush I had the metalistic ones on.
No offence to anyone here, but I haven't seen a source yet which looks authoritive that the centre tube should be clamped.
Being overly picky on words for a moment, it is not a crush tube, you have those on the diffs, these are meant to not be crushed.
If it was a specification and vital, then I would expect that Rave would say so.
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OK, tightly clamped - why? Why would you do or want this?
If the bush is free to rotate then the axle drops without binding or damping. That's fine, we have the dampers to do the damping.
What purpose would clamping the central tube do? It would resist motion, it has to, since the inner tube is bonded to the rubber and the rubber is bonded to the outer tube. The outer tube is a very tight (like 5 - 15ton) interference fit. It is not rotating.
I can't imagine anything *but* the rubber parting from one of the tubes unless the rubber is so soft as to not too. In which case it is too soft to do it's primary function of just absorbing the vibration and keeping the axle central front to back.
Logic suggests that you want the tube to be a close fit to the bracket and NOT clamped so tight as to really catch on it. In fact, if you look at the chassis bracket it is about 4mm on each side. That's not really something you expect to be able to bend under the kind of torque value that's mentioned (88NM). The bracket on the axle is thinner, only 2mm steel, but is supported on 3 sides.
Compare that to the radius arms at 197NM which definitely shouldn't rotate.
Also note that it says NOT to apply pressure to the inner rubber during fitting.. And also note that the WSM doesn't say that it shoudl be clamped.
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I can't be 100% sure, but I replaced all of the TREs back around 12 months ago. I would have checked the pre-load at that point I am sure. But haven't checked since.
I also checked and tightened all the wheel bearings around 3 months ago.
There is no steering issues *until* the bush is buggered, in fact it felt awesome with all round new bushes and a brand new (not recon!) steering box, Best rover drive I've had.
The steering damper was replaced in Feb, we changed that outback since we had to give the old girl every chance on the 6hr drive back..
Gut instinct is that it isn't the pre-load, but maybe I'll get around to checking again.
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OK,
I need to consult the collective on Panhard Rod Bushes (PRB or problem as I am thinking of them at the moment!).
I fitted new metalastic, all makes to every area of the discovery D1 300TDi 2" lift back in Dec. I had a terrible power steering leak, but got let down on a replacement box before a decent trip out.
The ATF ate the top bush over the course of the 2000km and we did a bit of bush repair to keep it drivable.
New box fitted and new bush back in in March. 3 Weeks ago got the death wobbles again and on checking the bush was shot again, about an inch of movement on the chassis end, nothing noticable on axle end.
Now, lets get the various usual culprits out of the way:
o It was on the ground when tightened
o I was lazy and didn't replace the slightly worn chassis bolt at the time (naughty I know) and tightened it firmly.
I assumed it was one of the likely causes, eyed holes etc.
o The chassis bracket doesn't seem to have any particular eyeing of the holes
o No visible motion of the bolt (before bush change or afterwards)
o The bolt, while damaged wasn't actually that bad and was a snug fit in the bush
So, I am now starting to consider that the cause of the wear is the chassis mount has been bent in (by us tightening the carp out of while outback) and is gripping the central bush tube. My theory is that this then causes the tube to be held stationary, while the arm moves, effectively tearing the tube away from the rubber, it would fit with how clean the tube had been removed and the condition of the rubber.
However, searches show people suggesting that the inner tube *should* be gripped in the bracket. So that is big question/argument one. Should the chassis be a very light interference fit to the tube, minimizing the motion, but allowing free rotation or should it be gripped tight?
Next, I fitted two new bolts this time. Because I was being anal I note that the shank is a great length when you have the bush on the workbench, but when you add in a washer or two, the chassis brackets, it is too short. The bracket rests on the threaded section, the shank (grip length?) would need to be around 15-20mm longer to have it resting on the bracket and minimizing motion.
So, that's the next one, are the bolts the right ones? Even if they are, should they be replaced by ones with a longer shank. This is not too difficult on the top one, but the axle one would be tricky unless the overall length stays the same.
The only other factor I can think of is that the lift has altered the caster, this has caused the bushes to be loaded with 'twisty' forces, if you can envision what I mean. Though I haven't really noticed this being an issue on any of the other rovers I've had.
And, just to make up for reading a long post about a single bush... Here's a link to a few photos from Outback NSW https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10200618218924089.198895.1418294738&type=1&l=070ce8b782
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I haven't done very much with the D2 V8 over the last 5 years but I haven't found it anything like as water phobic as the earlier ones.
I was very reluctant about the electwizadry, even though that is my day job. To my surprise it just hasn't been much of an issue.
1. Buy an OBD2 unit, doing it without that is just like trying to only use a single spanner for every job. A bit of diagnosis kit and you will find problems very quickly and can also confirm it is running within expectations.
2. Consider the ABS Amigo, this was about $300 IIRC, and I have had my monies worth. This is great for sorting out the ABS niggles and reseting on (a now ) infrequent basis.
3. Change the auto fluid and filter, it's a horribly messy job, but they'll all be wanting it. If you can, get hold of a dipstick tube and fit it at the same time. Yes, they don't have an auto dipstick, so checking is impossible and filling is a git.
The only other thing I discovered pretty recently, is get yourself a spare drive belt. It is huge and I reckon finding one on the shelf could be an issue when it breaks. Seriously, I reckon total length has to be about 12ft!
If it's losing any water check:
o Throttle body heater
o Heater pipes
o Matrix pipes
o Rad under the plastic shroud
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I had that, but on a heavy duty bearing. I was teaching manual driving to a 16 year old earlier this year and he was riding the clutch like mad and we were at it for about 3 hours.
Anyway, bearing melted, about 1mm of clutch plate gone, rear crank seal temp hardended.
Not sure that helps or is relevant, but I would say that maybe check for crank leak if you had that much heat in there to make sure you don't put it back together and find you have to take it apart again to do the seal!
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I have not long rebuilt a steering box, did a pretty thorough job, took it compltely apart and replaced the needl eroller bearings on the main shaft.
Now, a mate and I did the reassembly and I would provide some pointers....
1) getting the preload settings for the sector shaft appears tricky, the top adjuster and pre-loader interact making it difficult to know if you are getting it right, the method of measuring is tricky and I didn't own a torque wrench that goes low enough.
2) a lot of the kits don't seem to provide the 3 nylon piston seals in their kits.
Now depressingly when I put the box back on it leaked terribly from the top cover and the lower seal. Like far worse than it was before I started, and at that point one of the needle roller sets had disintegrated.
I haven't done a re-strip to try and see what we got wrong, but I'd suggest that if you are rebuilding then the top cover could bear with using PTFE tape in addition to the rubber seal. I have 2 boxes that leak tragically from the top cover now and I reckon corrosion seaps in and that the top seal is a bit of an issue. This makes the whole box appear wet, which fit in with what I have seen a few times.
The lower seal I have no idea on until I look, my shaft had suffered and I though my seal was going to avoid it, but maybe it didn't and it's just sat on the damaged area. In which case probably a refacing of that area in some way would solve it.
You will almost certainly need a hydraulic puller to get the arm off, nothing I tried moved it, it broke a bunch of pullers in the process.
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You got a contact number for this? Rimmer Bros have screwed me over so I am looking at where to get a box.Adwest sell direct to public. Got one on order. -
Hey has anyone tried WCD105900 - non-cat downpipe for the D2 Thor V8 engine? My down pipe has sheared and the cats are blowing, so the rules as they are here mean that I can replace with a non-cat pipe.
Not many places seem to sell it and wondered if anyone had any experience at all?
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Nah, do my own work to avoid the land rover tax here
In fact, still get most parts sent over as I can afford the wait over the expense ....Most of the discos have aircon (or at least everyone I looked at when I was buying), can't imagine being without it when you crack on to 45+ degrees.
Thanks for the advice, I'm paying attention.... Luckily we have a few local tryouts we can use here, Kangaroo island offers a good run with a little green like roads, and we have Loveday 4x4 to go and do a bit more with some testing off road.
First real trip will be to Lake Eyre I believe, so we can see it wet before it disappears...
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Yea, that was my list to do before we left the garage
Clutch fork - forgotten about that, defintely needs to be on the list.
Radiator - duh, clean/check and service is also on the list now
Lipped cog - doh, I did that exact job before I left the UK.
Viscous fan - actually does some work out here - so that would warrent a bit of a luck or replace with electric (I prefer the electric as it makes working on the engine easier too)
Equipment wise I plan to get a wheel changer doofer (http://www.tyrepliers.com.au/New/tyrechanger.html) and carry some tyres (less weight up top) so can change them out and stand more chance of bodging a repair for tyre too. Tyre repair kit as well.
I'll just lay in the top end gasket set and leave the job unless there are any doubts.
I did wonder about carrying some spare push rods (again from experience) as low value, wieght space, but big problem solver.
I guess I should also consider carrying a few fuel filters.
Yea, maybe put some extra temp sensors in the system.
The big issue with the V8 is that I reckon you get about 400 - 500 km on a tank, it just isn't enough for the distances when you head further out. Switching back to diesel doubles that range(ish) and carrying diesel is less of a worry in my mind. All the rovers tend to be pretty rust free out here, but suffer from high mileage and poor maintence with no annual MOT in a few of the states. Paintwork can be 'interesting' and things like fans and electrics can suffer worse than UK due to more use.
It's been fantastic having the V8 for the last 3 years and not having to take a valium before filling up ($100 for tank) but I think the time has come...
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After 3 years here in Oz I am finally starting to think about fitting out a truck and getting out. Locally there are a couple of discos for sale at good prices (less than $4k) which may be an option, but I want to factor in some work that will probably be done (by myself) before we head to the outback.
We currently have a 1999 D2 V8, but the range on the tank is just not enough, let alone the cost of it, so we have discounted fitting that truck out for long range, defenders are too pricey (a 110 will be $12k to $20k) and I have a begruding liking for the discos having owned one type of another for the last 5 years, alongside a 90 back in the UK.
The last consideration is that on some of the tracks the recovery fees can be huge (like $4k) so spending money on 'excessive' maintenence is not the same as it was back in the UK.
So... I am assuming I won't have or don't trust the history of the vehicles and my list is:
Clutch & release bearing
Clutch master & slave
Bearings x4
Timing Belt & tensioner
Belts
Water pump P gasket
Cross drilled gear - are these needed on later boxes?
Ujs x6 (spares)
Steering Ujs
Oils
Bushes
Track rod ends
hoses
The above I am pretty sure about, however I have another task I am unsure about, Head Gasket. Should I do a preventative replacement? Am I just disturbing it for no good reason, should I have the parts in the back and if it blows then it's not a terrible job to do?
Are there any other jobs?
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Nige, I'd suggest you buy a Wi-Fi card for the house computer then move the router to where you can get a decent signal all over, including the garage. If that fails then it might be time to see if you can upgrade the firmware of the router. Different geo regions have rules about power and frequencies, so if you get somthing like ddwrt on it you can probably select a region with a higher power output and/or unused freq range.
Of course it probably wouldn't be legal, so that is all theoretical...
Finally you can also buy a high gain antenna for the garage PC.
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If they've been on for a while and have had some weathering then the pistons can take a bit of effort to go back the last few needed mm. I think the front are going to be harder in that respect than the back, as that dual piston thing is a git.
The discs are cheap enough that replacing is not an issue and an easy job if everything comes apart. The issue is that the multipoint bolts that secure the caliper frame are not neccesarily held on the shelf, so you may want to have 2 in hand to minimise down time after you start the job. Just in case..
Buying new calipers is going to be a bit of cash... think about 500UKP is my guess for an axle set.
If the piston bores are fine then there isn't much else to them, buy some new stainless pistons, LR gen seal kits (give the aftermarkets a miss, the tolerances are tight in this area) and rebuild the existing ones. I have done this job and it isn't too bad.
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I've used these guys LR Centre a couple of times now to ship parts to Australia. The parts have ranged from $400 to $900. They've been good to deal with and have been on the ball so far.
The only issue I had was when a small valve wasn't in the order, and since a lot of packages are opened by customs here I assumed it had gone missing at that stage, they just sent another one in a jiffy back free of charge to me.
I usually email my order list in and check prices and shipping.
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Hey,
It's not terribly difficult, though each state varies in the process for creating a new company. Ours is still *very* early days, we have done a freebie job for the DMO here and have a self funded project on the go. When the final legal stuff is finished in the next week or so we will have access to government tender websites which will likely provide our primary source of new contracts initially. I should say that we are doing the company as a part timer, hoping to ramp up as we get more work in.
IT Wages obviously vary by state and location, areas like Sydney have income like London, but higher outgoings, probably a good mix of pay versus outgoings is going to be Melbourne, it's a wet fingered guess but I reckon that SW engineers are pulling about $100k down there, less here in SA and more like $140k in NSW/Sydney. That's mainly just my wet fingered guesses though.
Don't do a straight comparision of $ to your local currency, I can only talk about going back to UK GBP, and my current pay is probably the equivalent of GBP38k ish. Difficult to compare back, since it's now been 2 1/2 years...
One difference is (at least here in SA) that IT contracting pays no where near the way it should IMO, they prefer to try and treat you like a temporary employee, which neglects you covering your own training and down time.
But setting up your own 1 man business is very easy here, doing a partnership (which we have just set up) is a bit more involved, but generally people running their own businesses here is the norm.
If you are looking to pick between states it's difficult, there is IT work in each state, even NT (which isn't a state
) but you get different benefits. I think if you like stuff like skiing as well as off road then VIC is the place to be, NSW less so, and don't bother with anywhere else. All the states have the potential for aswesome off road trips, though the flavour of them is different than it was in the UK. It's more touring with extreme green lanes IMHO, not the same punishing 48 hours we did back there (though as I say, we have hardly gotten away!).There are a bunch of great websites to talk to other emmigrants, british expats (despite the name) being a very useful one, then you have things like Poms in Adelaide which you may find useful. I guess there are similar sites for the other areas.
As far as importing the truck.... There are quite a few older series of all types here, you won't pay much to actually import it, but you will pay for the shipping, which might mean it isn't economically a good move... That said, if you know and love it, then don't neglect the emotional factor of taking it with you.
Taking a 90 over is definitely worth it, you won't find many here and the price you would get would defintely make it worth it, I really regret not bringing my 90 now, both financially and for having had it here laughs and giggles.
HTH
Steve
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Hi,
We moved across in Nov 08. I'm in IT and did the whole VISA process ourselves, it basically involved getting a skills assessment from the ACS and I would guess for you the IELTS (I think that's what it is) to confirm your standard of English. My guess is that you should qualify as a 175 independant (120 pts) or if you go for a rural or state sponsored area (such as SA, WA or VIC) you should definitely get the 100pts needed for state sponsored.
Its a way in the future for you but Australia is pretty dead for jobs from Dec to Jan, our Nov landing was bad timing, we ended up waiting around and worrying, along with the GFC slowing things down. So consider timing your arrival better than we did
Job hunting is 'interesting'... Recruitment agents seem useless (not a single thing out of them in all this time). CV's (or Resumes as they like'em) tend to be longer here, don't worry about going to 4 pages or so if you have experience. But make sure you do a good cover letter and phone the company before sending. It makes all the difference.
For IT I don't think it is as easy going as it was in the UK, but it may be the guys I work for....
I can only speak for South Australia, but you can do a lot more outside generally, you get a lot more housing wise for your money (essential for a landy owner, who could live without double garage, large shed, 4 car drive way...).
It's not like it was 30 years ago, but there is still a lot of opportunity here, I am just starting my own IT company with a mate since we reckon there is gap in the market, Australian companies seem to specialise a lot and make square pegs fit round holes rather than the kind of spread of experience and skills UK firms tend to have (or at least locally that is what I see). I never would have imagined doing this back in the UK.
Only downside (and mainly our own fault) is that we just don't seem to have gotten out in the rover very much, a trip to Kangaroo island was good and we are considering just doing a gentle drive to Coober Pedy as a photography jaunt and see a bit of the desert over the weekend. Seem to be doing more work for work, my own company and stuff on the house here than I did in the UK.
Steve
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Hey Ali,
how are prices for landy parts up that way? I'm still tending to import a fair bit of stuff from UK as it works out cheaper than buying local a lot of the time?
Steve
Clutch Bearing.. who pays?
in International Forum
Posted
Two things, first is that I think about the same time I did the same work and also had a release bearing melt, this was on a 300TDi disco, so no adjustment. I did have a learner who rode the hell out of it, which is what I put it down to.
I wonder if there was a bad batch though now, as he rode the clutch for about 3 or 4 hours, which I could believe and disbelieve.
Second thing is that when I went in to fix things the rear crank seal and a few other items had suffered from heat, I'd have a good think about what else can have been heat damaged, because if a part that is tenuously connected (via pressure plate, momentary connected etc) got that hot, then how about direct connected (i.e. stuff connected to flywheel.
If your specialist is so adamant that you did this via riding the clutch and has done the work did they use their specialist knowledge to do the other related work or are they planning on charging you for taking the box out again when you get some related leaks?