steve_a
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Posts posted by steve_a
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if's a rear flat, just remove the shafts and prop then
Edit : but then you'll have 2 holes either side of the axel........ so would need some blank flanges as such.
G
A workshop rubber glove does a good job, plus zip lock. It also looks quite comical as you watch it
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If you run with a different size tyre (regardless of whether the prop is in or not) the axle diff will take care of the difference, BUT! depending on the type of diff the wear on the cross pin for the gears (planets?) will be the main issue. They are not especially well lubricated from the diffs I have looked at (and the one that broke on the cross pin).
How much it will affect anything I don't know, but if it is a substantial run then it will weaken the cross pin to some degree.
If you do the run check the diff oil level, and if possible try to top it up or overfill to reduce or stop the extra wear.
I don't know how much effect this will have on the centre diff, I would think that it would be less or none, but I have a mental failure on gears....
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They have.
But it's aussie.
http://www.4wdaction.com.au/custom/009/
got addicted when out there for last summer, I need to ask them if they will do an overseas subscription. I had issues 1-6 which are busy passing through all my club, had write ups on shockers, dobbein x link toy axle swaps for GQ patrol ones, it was like reading this forum to be honest.
I think that the format needs to be exported sharpish.
They do, but it is expensive. I think I had a 9 month subscription for about £65. You don't get any of the freebies for taking it, the mag arrives late, often beaten up and missing the DVD at least once. I could justify it because I was coming out.
There is also custom 4wd action, which might be more up your street.
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Any comments on the electronic ones? My brother is 40 in a week or two and I was thinking an electronic one could be a good present, not something you would necessarily buy yourself.
I know they do a standard torque action, but can you do them in terms of the dial type too, i.e. live LCD display of the current torque value?
ebay torque wrench is one I was thinking of, sealy is namish brand and it is the only ebay offering for a quick check.
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No snow here this morning , although would be handy as my outdoor pool is running at 32 degrees c and it could do with a bit of cooling down. Save me having to buy Ice to put in it.
Although it got cold at the weekend temp dropped down to 24c for a bit .32? Ice? Prefer when it gets to 33 over this side, solar heater running on to push it up. Think we are acclimatising, anything lower than 25c and we think it's a jeans and trainers day rather than shorts and thongs (flip-flops as they may also be known
).Downside is that with the quality of house building here, we better hope that winter is no worse than 19c since this house has more draughts than my old series 3.
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Handbrake is my guess, check the adjuster is still bolted on firmly and that the adjuster is releasing all the way. As the drum pads catch they lock on, can make some terrible noises.
I've had this on a series and a 1991 disco.
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Nige,
are you sure you want sliding opening window in the TC ? Both the ones I had rattled like hell and put a LOT of extra noise in the cab. I never felt the need to open them, though the knackered window channel made that difficult in both, and I usually had bits of card wedged into them.
Consider just plexiglassing them like you did the HT sides, it will be quieter and retain the heat better.
Last time I saw the TC window discussed everyone said there's rattled like hell too!
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What model range rover...?
You can always just get a key cut. However depending on the model it may not mean that the alarm is off or the immobiliser unarmed.
Typically you need to get a blipper paired with car, that means the key and car at a garage (probably a main dealer). The older 2 button lucas ones I think you can get a second hand one and it can be tied to the car. The newer ones you need the serial number of the blipper I believe, this mostly means a new one and so is about the price you quoted.
If it is the new style then you can use a simple key to unarm the car by using the EKA code, but it sounds like a faff, you need the code and then it says to wait 10 mins for the alarm to turn off before you drive it.
I think the old style you can just use the spare key and all is well.
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Having had a 200 D1 a 300 D1 Auto, and now a D2 V8 4.0L the major caution I'd add is the extra electrics on the D2 and the need for more modern gear to maintain (e.g. code reader for engine).
If you are happy to have a simple code reader and attempt engine repairs then the rest of the motor is generally mildly modified D1. There are a couple of provisos though...
Suspension - if air then it can cause grief, not too difficult to change to coils if wanted, but some extra expense.
ACE - still not sure what the impact is of trying to fit a lift kit to an ACE fitted vehicle.
Extra electronics - ABS and ACE need a custom diag kit, cheapest around £400 from my looking over the last few weeks. ABS doesn't seem to want to clear the faults even if you fix the issue (you may be able to pull battery, but didn't work for me).
Just be aware that if you like working on your own car then these things can be a real issue, that £400 item is good for ONLY your vehicle. Not another one similar, they tie it to your VIN which means it is an expensive outlay, I don't know if they do a deal to swap a VIN locked licence to another VIN.
Personally I am planning on trading the D2 V8 in and buying a 200 or 300 again because of these reasons and what we want to do with the car here in Oz.
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Even on road only use will cause the following to rot:
- sills (under the plastic trim under the door)
- seat belt anchor points for rear seats in the wheel arch
- rear boot floor
Then check gearbox for wear by going from 1st to reverse and listening for excessive clunking/drive lash (though there will always be a good bit of clunking).
Check every electric item there is, with extra trim if something isn't working it might be a real pain to get to it to fix.
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Had the same thing, try a different day. I tried for AGES getting the discovery box back in. Then when I went back the following weekend it slid in like a slidey thing.
Get a mate to help if you can, it seemed easier with someone providing thrust force at the back and a guider near the front.
make sure diff lock is in when you turn the prop flange and box in gear, as otherwise you just turn the other flange and not the shaft.
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Yep Brendan,
checked and pretty sure the spigot is on the diff assembly, not a lot of access without dismantling the interior though, so have to be sure I want to do the work.
Problem is all my tools are in the UK, apparently they might be sent in about 2-3 weeks. Then 10 weeks shipping. Then 4 weeks customs. I reckon I might have a decent collection of tools by about April 09.
Having said that, the list of other electronic controlled items is worrying:
- gearbox is electronic control isn't it? Does it have a robust fall back mode?
- ACE is fitted, I assume it fails safe? But have heard that if it goes to a red failure light then you really shouldn't drive it.
- SRS, already fiddled with seatbelt pre-tensioners (the search on the forum does work sometimes!)
- ABS/HDC/ETC, with diff lock these add, with out they are all I got (and that means I don't have squat at the moment!)
- Alarm, need to spend out another $300 or so for a second key fob so I can be sure I can get in and run it, the EKA code is not known to me (another time to visit the dealer I guess)
- Engine, I guess a standard OBDII reader would do for this.
To me that list is too long with too many what ifs.
Going back on topic, the 110 TD5 just has the engine under control, perhaps an alarm but the rest is all simple stuff. I can't even look at a TD5 disco as that would be back to most of those worries above.
Trade offs between comfort - reliability - fixability - power for a choice of car out here, starting to get an idea of how big everything is, the UK is really feeling small and cosy to me at the moment, though it could still be a bit of 'culture shock'
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There is nanocom for the TD5? That would at least allow diagnosis of issues, it is only really the engine on the TD5s that is gizmofied isn't it?
As said, if you have standard spares as you would for the 300 anyway, then there *might* not be much difference, if an injector for the 300 goes down then could you repair at the nearest township? If you had nanocom would you be in the same situation, i.e. when the spare injector comes you can fit it and fix.
I've binned the idea of using the D2 V8 for any trips out, the ABS/ETC/HDC plays up too much, so I *need* the centre diff lock fitted. But that still leaves a lot of electrics on the car, and I just don't feel happy about it.
I would *not* tour without something like nanocom with the TD5 in case of issues, but after that isn't it the same as any post 1999 4x4 with lots of complexity. All said, I'd probably still go for the 300
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Well I never! So they actually introduced the 2.0MPI engine?? I assumed it had started with it.
Had no idea that the 300s started in 95, I thought it was a year or two later.
How long was the MPI offered for then? Can't have been very long.
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Go and wash your mouth out man!!!! How dare you equate the Discovery to the Range Rover!!!Tsk tsk
Ohh, I need a lie down.
Bish
(ex RR owner, now a slow, uncomfortable and noisy Defender owner)
It's like lego Bish, same guy different hat on him
It's the engine options that make the difference -
Disco 1 offered with 2.0 MPI and 200TDi until ??? (1994?) then V8 and 200TDi , then 1997 on was V8 and 300TDi
D2 TD5 and V8 MPFI
RR V8, then V8 and VM??, then V8 and TDi?
If you want an older V8, RR is the way to go, if you want a derv then Disco.
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Didn't hear a lot from his defence side:
- have they proved the trailing arm bracket snapped at the time and caused the accident or did they merely observe that it was snapped off when recovered. Was the trailing arm broken by the roll and not the cause? I don't think the QC could prove that.
- Speed - from reading all the eye witnesses are known to each other? All from Wellbeck college? The same place as the transit van/minibus driver who Gresh alleges caused the accident. Surely there is a conflict, did they give their statements without the ability to collude?
- The minibus, Gresh must be one cool customer, because right after the accident and as his kids are taken away the PC on scene asked him the cause, and he stated the minibus not giving any way on the road.
- Condition of brake system when tested - it had been rolled and submerged. I don't doubt there was excessive pedal travel if they didn't bleed them etc. Which would then mean nothing. Again, had the rear calipers seized after no use after submergence, was the test done soon after recovery or 6 months after laying in a recovery yard in the weather?
- Missing brake pedal rubber - again, lost after the accident or not fitted? Difficult to prove.
The Jury on visiting the land rover should have had a comparison vehicle, say a police land rover, to compare against it. LRs are not sterile clean vehicles, and no doubt showing the 'state' of the landy from the underside would have been an undue and worthless influence on the juries mind. Good one QC, you really know how to make sure you convict.
Made from 5 vehicles? That's spare parts, what bearing could that have? unless his defence had asked if those modifications had been done correctly..
It seems the one major factor is the calipers, which I assume would have made straight line braking an issue.
I have no idea where the public have been served by this, god forbid they should give Gresh anything more than a fine or community service. To break his already traumatised family up would be unbelievable.
I hope he appeals, why the minibus driver is getting away scot free, since even in his own statement he say HE DIDN'T GIVE WAY, is remarkable. Is it perhaps any chance to do with what a good class of person he must be?
Whole thing sucks and I can't believe it has gone as it has, could they not have done this via a coroners court and left the Greshams out of it?
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Defender 90 truck cab:
Nightmare for size, you + passenger and box of sarnies is it full up.
I bought two, don't ask me why, I didn't intend to get the second.
Defender 90 hard top:
Better inside, more space, still only a two seater for older models though. Expensive to make into a 4 seater these days.
Defender 110:
Good inside, seems better size than 90 for front seats, don't know why. Loads of space and seats 5 with no issues. Longggg though.
Discovery:
I reckon it sits between def 90 HT and 110. you get more space, better layout and able to pack gear in. Wheel base is magic 100", 90 is actually 92" so you don't lose much. I think the seats and driving position are great.
Series 1 are basically defender mechanics, electrics seems slightly better than defender. Limited elements of electro gizmos, much like defender.
series 2 are nice, some nice improvements, however lots of ABS/ETC/EBD stuff. You need a test book or summit to sort out the 3 amigos (HDC/TC/ABS) lights when (not if) they come on. I'd personally stick with a series 1 (having just bought a D2 V8).
Of course there is the range rover, which is basically the same as the discovery, different engine choices though.
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Surprisingly, I got a reply from LR Oz about a letter of compliance request for my 1997 D1. I think what he says is.... we can't/won't help.
I'm guessing a similar request in NZ will get a similar response
RE: 1997 Discovery 1Thank you for your email in relation to obtaining a letter of compliance to assist with the import of your Land Rover vehicle.
Regrettably, Land Rover Australia is a manufacturer of vehicles complied to be used within the Australian market prior to public sale of the vehicle and as such we are unable to issue you with a letter of compliance.
May we suggest that you visit the below Australian government website that we are positive will be in the best position to assist in your query:
www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/importing_vehicles/index.aspx
We trust this information has been useful however, if you wish to discuss the matter further then please don’t hesitate to contact me on the number below, Monday to Friday 08:30 till 18:00 (EST).
Clive Wolhuter
Land Rover Australia
Ph: 1800 625 642
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Dashboard noise:
I think it sounds like a relay, so it may be normal while it is waiting for the engine to start. I have left it going for a minute or more and didn't stop.
Timed the 12 second noise again today and it was still about 12 seconds.
Installed microcat and put in the VIN and it seems to think it is fitted with ACE (which I *think* it is, the pump is on the drivers chassis rail, and air suspension on the passenger side isn't it?).
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Had the Discovery 2 V8 (1999 model) for about 2 weeks now and have a few questions, since I haven't had a D2 or V8 before.
Dashboard noise:
with ignition at all on, but no engine there is a drrrrr noise from right side of dash, I suspect it is just normal, but thought I'd ask. I can't tell if it is still there engine running as it isn't *that* loud.
Weird noise:
This one has me stumped. Very, very regular, about every 12 seconds. Not engine speed related, doesn't seem related to steering, gearbox in park, neutral, reverse and drive. Seems to come from underside of car, perhaps midways. Grating type noise, duration of about 1/2 second.
Wondering if this one is the ACE pump, no air bags on this model, but I *think* the compressor is on the drivers side chassis rail?
Belt noise:
Seems to be a bit of a belt noise whine in the cabin, normal? Not squalling, just engine related revs drone. Not gearbox, as it can be replicated by bringing revs up, but not quite as noisy as when gears engaged.
Weee noise:
Seems to come when I accelerate away from the lights, comes from both drivers and passengers seats. Stops when I look at the fuel gauge. Any ideas?
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I've only ever done the one cam belt and on the Defender. However the process was not too bad.
The main issue for the disco is going to be access, as it is the first time doing it may be better to consider removing the rad to get better access to everything, the defender had so much space I just didn't need to do that.
I'd allow about a day of methodical effort, you may come in at 1/2 a day if it all goes well. Running very much off memory
Remove rad - about 1/2 hr
Remove belts etc 1/2 hr
Remove pulleys 1/2 hr - the crank can be a pain, mine wasn't too bad, cracked off the starter with no fuss.
remove cover 1/2 hr - take this bit easy, as a broken bolt here will be a real PITA, soak them, wiggle them, you never know how easy or hard that is going to be.
Set timing 1/2 hr - need to make sure you are V happy about this, basically you lock off the flywheel and injection pump. Clean all the sprokets in case you want to make some extra tipex marks to ensure you get the timing right, FIP and crank are easy, but the cam needs to have visible marks.
put new belt on 1hr - I took ages, on - tension, turn by hand, re-tension, not happy, turn, re-tension. go away have coffee, come back, re-tension etc. You will need at LEAST a torque wrench for this, the trick is that the timing belt is not tension driven, so you are not aiming for a tightness like the alt belt, but to take out the slack.
** You can run the engine up at this point for a SHORT check, but the water pump will not be there, this allows you to make sure the belt is not too tight and that everything seems OK before putting the whole lot back together. **
Cover back on 1/2 hr - can be a PITA getting gaskets to play ball, but it was cold and windy when I did mine...
pulley and crank back on 1hr, fiddly job and you need to really tension the crank - might need an assistant
rad back on 1/2 hr
Les H will have a tech archive post, but having done so many he probably approaches it with a more laid back attitude than your first one. Quite satisfying when you have done it though, and really removes the fear from doing it again.
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I had no difference in price on mine, at least nothing that didn't come down to factors such as worth more and higher specification.
The vehicle is EXACTLY the same spec as the UK, so you should be able to find a decent quote from someone else.
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Last time I went past them (near the end of Sept) they were. Haven't been past since though.
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try lifting form a corner rather than the middle - seemed to make the difference when mine seized after trips on the Plain
Although it got cold at the weekend temp dropped down to 24c for a bit .
is there a new off road track near peterborough
in Getting out and about
Posted
Between Northampton and Kettering there is a relatively new off road track, can't remember off hand the details but I posted about it last august on this section.
Thats kind of close to Peterborough?