Bowie69
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Posts posted by Bowie69
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It's the same over on the Audi forum frequent, everyone gets a jaded opinion of the mark because no-one posts up when things are running OK.
Plus of course it couldn't *possibly* be down to people putting oversized tyres on them and trying to crawl slowly.
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Well you better like them then....
I run reds in the audi.
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If it dumped oil into the exhaust, it will take a looong time to burn off, need to get it on the road and get it really hot.
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I find EBC to be excellent, Lockheed always not so much, pagid can be terrible.
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It's just a common problem with LR calipers or pads not made right.
I'd try and get something reputable and not from the usual suspects, e.g. EBC, even avoiding Lockheed.
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Well, there *should* be...
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I've had this, maybe even still do slightly have this with new, cheap, calipers on the rear, I'm more suspicious of the pads, I will try a different brand should it become worse.
I hope you're not having a third bad thing.... I've had one today, I left the locking wheel nut tool on the Audi wheel bolt and went for a drive.... Doh.
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Points, electronic ignition or RRC style amplifier?
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So there are two steel pipes with a bleeder that run along the passenger rocker cover/valley, bolted to inlet manifold, they often rot out, but may be available new still.
You can see them here:
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Honestly no idea!
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Which 3.9?
There's many setups....
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It looks to me like the allen bolt/grub screw is crimped into the sector shaft, so in other words it is not designed to come out.
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Overhaul procedure found on page 57 of this manual : Def_90_110_WSM_book4.pdf (roversclub.org)
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On 5/10/2024 at 11:27 PM, Bowie69 said:
Things are tight....
Er, that came through upside down?
Also, you can see the small aluminium bracket made to hold the MC feed lines in, otherwise you could knock them out and make a terrible mess/lose brakes. It is held in with the original Tesla roll pin.
Some people have 3D printed things to do the same job, this took me 20 mins, and about 5p worth of aluminium offcut.
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5 hours ago, Snagger said:
the Chinese social credit system that is being pushed by some in the west.
What do you think the money is in your wallet?
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2 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:
Noted
That's not to say the keys are left in LGT
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1 minute ago, Anderzander said:
At the other end of the spectrum: someone I live near leaves his doors open - house and garage.
To be fair, I often do too... there's no crime round here.
2 minutes ago, Anderzander said:And you feel the impact or likelihood enough to justify it presumably.
Yep, mostly because it would just be so much hassle to sort out.
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Nope, home insurances less than 200 quid, middle of nowhere.
But I value what I have....
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Don't forget the hinge side.... you can beef up the lock all you want but if the hinges are standard butts then Mr Burglar will just jemmy the other side, these are a great addition IMHO:
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The Wolf hood will be very, very expensive, as are sought after.
If you have a roll hoop already, what's stopping you getting something welded to that to bolt the top mount to?
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There's normally a circlip inside the cylinder, which retains a plate which retains the push rod.
Remove the circlip and the whole lot springs apart.
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1 hour ago, ThreePointFive said:
When I drove it before, the pedal felt like it barely moved. I found it hard to tell how much brake I was applying, though that wasn't really a problem at 3mph.
I didn't realise how far the foot wells come into the engine bay but it makes sense now I think about the seating position.
Yep, the thing you probably didn't realise (as I didn't really either) was the remote servo was almost certainly not working properly, once you gave the pedal a good shove the assistance kicked in and then there was more movement. The way vacuum servos work is that they have balanced pressure on both sides of the diaphragm until you press the pedal and overcome a certain amount of pedal movement, at that point a valve opens up and allows atmospheric pressure to the other side of the diaphragm -this valve, I think, was a bit sticky on the old remote servo.
You also have to bear in mind that you were pushing two 3/4" master cylinders (453mm2), whereas most vehicles would be running a single tandem 3/4" master (226mm2) so you unassisted pedal effort(i.e. before the servo kicks on) would be ~twice what you would expect, and of course half the movement.
I did try 5/8 masters which really helped, however, I think the remote servo was giving up by then and it made the pedal have a weird feel, so I had switched back to the 3/4" before going to Wales and having brake failure.
The thing that really pushed me down this road was the old setup had some real compromises, and some other issues:
- Both masters where under the dash, and really quite difficult to get at, so servicing was a problem.
- There were two masters, which is more than one failure point
- There was no balance bar between the masters (there may have been at one time, just not in my ownership), so there was little point in having twin masters.
- Despite having twin masters, there was only a single remote servo, there's two ways to do this, just assist the front, or, as had been done, make it a single circuit braking system. This is BAD, as if you lose fluid to one master you lose all brakes -you know how I know this.
- A remote servo made by Lockheed is ~£400 and wouldn't solve the single circuit issues, and they aren't known for being reliable, the non-Lockheed ones are even more unreliable.
- You can get a £400 twin remote servo, but it is non-Lockheed, so suspect reliability again.
- In both the previous points there was no space available to fit either the twin, or a second remote servo to make it dual circuit.
- With all the components it introduced a mass of different failure points.
I paid £270 for the iBooster, which is not really very cheap, however, it was made in 2019, and is made by Bosch, apart from pedal rubbers slipping off Tesla have not had a raft of warranty claims relating to iBoosters, so one can assume they are pretty reliable. I did buy a pre-made loom (the plugs and wiring diagrams are available, but I had money available , but not much time) but the loom can be DIY made for ~£45 I think, so you end up with a new, easily available, twin-circuit master, reliable servo and simple connection for <£350 which compared to the compromised Lockheed remote servo is a bit of a bargain.
You just need to make it fit, which was a fair bit of work, given space constraints unique to LGT there was a lot of head scratching going on, if it was in a stock Defender I can imagine it all going in quite easily to replace the existing master/servo block, and even be able to use the stock Tesla Model 3 reservoir.
1 hour ago, ThreePointFive said:I didn't realise how far the foot wells come into the engine bay but it makes sense now I think about the seating position.
Yes, I had to be careful not to intrude on where the wheel might end up going on full stuff and hard right lock. I had to cut the secondary shock mount off the wing tube (wasn't being used, and no plans to) to squeeze it all in, but I think it will all work.
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36 minutes ago, toenden said:
That would be a nice feature in challenge type events! I have more than once had my legpower fade on the brake pedal when that darn copilot is to slowmotion 🙄
/mads
Given how easy the pedal is, the leg bracing you in the seat is more likely to get tired.
Or just fit a line lock to the rear wheels like I have...
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A note on the hydraulics...
A lot of people seem to go for the Honda versions of the ibooster, however they use a smaller master, the Tesla Model 3 has a 25mm master, and when you compare number of pistons and sizes on a Model 3 to the 110 calipers I have on LGT they are pretty close, within a couple of mm, so this seemed like a good starting point.
The masters fitted are pretty generic Bosch items which are available in other sizes, I am tempted to try a 28 or 33mm master and see what happens, but then I could achieve the same by swapping to RRC calipers....
Brake performance is good, really very good, bit more pedal travel than I am used to, but then I drove my dad's Dacia Duster today and it had the same pedal feel.... So could be like rhat in a Model 3 for all I know...
Rear Brake Issues
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Not from what I can find out, they are owned by TMD Friction, which has been bought by -AEQUITA - Private Equity Investors , which always means quality goes one way.